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September 1, 1972 American chess grandmaster Bobby Fischer defeats Russian champion Boris Spassky 12.5-8.5 in Reykjavik, Iceland, in the most publicized world title match ever played; Fischer becomes the first American to win the title.

Saw this at a show. Owner called it a battery quick disconnect

Looking at my 416-H as the only point of reference available to me, the only wiring that would be in any way related to the hood and it's movement is the connector going to the lights. If the lights are disconnected and the harness on the tractor side is secured from movement, the hood must be hitting something that you are not seeing. Leaving the hood in the open position, I would begin by touching every wire or moveable part that could touch a wire until the engine quits. Something is either grounding or causing a break in a circuit that is critical to the running of the engine. It's not magic or voodoo, it's a mechanical disconnect. Try your testing at night in pitch black darkness and see if you can see a spark as the culprit raises it's ugly head. When working in the dark, just be careful of moving parts such as belts, fans, PTO's etc.

No one will know it's not a K341 unless you can see an engine sticker or count the number of Head bolts. The engine patina matches the rest of the tractor from the photos.

Definitely maybe I would or wouldn't. Probably.

I've found penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) and a red Scotch-Brite pad (or some areas with 600 grit wet sandpaper) to be an excellent method for removing the grime and bringing back some color. After I have the surface rust and black mildew removed, I wash it down, then give it a fresh application of PB Blaster and let it soak in the sun. Then another bath and I'm left with a smooth patina finish that repels water and wipes clean easily. Recoat as needed over time. I've found other treatments leave too much gloss for my liking. I'm really just hung up on wether or not to swap the tower decals. Here is my C-160 after the PB Blaster treatment. (and a drunken decal application )

Though we do love our Wheel Horses most of us love seeing any rusty old relic brought back to life. Please share your journey with us. This YouTuber may be your best resource but we would be glad to add our as you go along. A Koehler engine is a Koehler engine no matter it is on, steering is steering, transmissions are transmissions, hydraulics are hydraulics, and we can learn from one another right along with you.

Today I got the group out took the deck off the 308 and pressure washed and armor alled them in preparation for the get together. the 308 was having an issue so I ended up pushing it back to it's spot. It's probably gas I need to get gas before I go.

I'd leave it. Then race people with 16 hp engines and when you tie/beat them, you can point to the HP engine sticker and claim superiority of driving skills over HP...

If you get stuck, I am in the same village as you. PM me if needed.

I wonder if the only ground for the coil is coming thru the headlight wiring.

The tie down is what makes it...!!! twice, cut once... Lucky 13!!!

IMHO - leave them as is. IF you ever come across a good running correct vintage 16 HP Kohler to swap in, it's one less thing to deal with.

Your carburetor has a weich plug just above the idle mixture screw, if you remove it you may find dirt in the tiny passages in there. To remove the plug, drill a small hole in the center being careful to not go in beyond the plug, then pry it out. Use an aluminum 3/8" plug to reseal.

I didn't see this when I replied earlier about the 2 piece manifold . Mine was easy to diagnose because when I removed manifold then took carb off to rebuild the manifold came apart in my hands.

@Ed Kennell, get your finger out of there, you are making me nervous!

I asked my wife what she wanted for Christmas. She told me, "Nothing would make her happier than a diamond necklace." So, I'm going to get her nothing.

Did the same with my 48. I love how much better it distributes clippings. I've been using it for a few months now and I really like it.

I swapped a six-speed into my 854 but kept the original decal (vs. changing it to “864”) because so few folks would see/understand the difference in nomenclature. In your case, I’d change the decal, because horsepower is well understood!.

I believe that's for a Pullstart engine. To the best of my knowledge.... That will NOT work for any Starter/Generator or gear drive starter engines. @squonk?

Happy Birthday @Buckeyes, we are glad you were born.

$4.79 two miles down the road from me, it's an Indian owned station. And that's the only grade of gas they sell.

Yea the correct spring that goes from the linkage to the trans will be here tonight so after I swap them as long as the rain calms down ill test it and report back.

The grass and weeds those things are supposedly cutting would be like a Wheel Horse conquering the Okefenokee Swamp, but they are cute.

If a cow laughed really hard.... would milk come out of her nose? Why did the cow jump over the moon? The farmer had cold hands.

You cleaned the carb 5 times to stop the surging and it ran smooth. I suspect a speck of dirt found its way to the carb again. Replace all old fuel lines and clean the carb again.

Update: Here is the latest version of it. I put roller bearings under the front spindles to allow it to turn a little easier (The poor man's steering mod from this site), I gave each front wheel one more washer to keep it tighter on the spindles as it seems to have had to much slop ( it still has some slop but thats the bearings I think going out), I adjusted the hoop a tad to make it perfectly centered on the PTO stub, I turned the muffler down so I would stop smelling exhaust as the sticking up thing didn't work for me as well as I had hoped, and then finally I tweaked the belt guard so it would fit back on the horse. (Yes I know I over trimmed it and got the angles wrong but yeah) Its not perfect but it functions. I currently have about 3.3hours on this build and I hope for many more. Thank you all for taking the time to read about my adventures. Side note: The G6 gator blades really shoot out the grass about 2-3 feet. They also seme to cut great! I think its better than the dual blade setup honestly.

That is a cool looking engine, if it's got enough horsepower for the little tractor. I'll see what I can do to identify those engines. Here is the shifter: locking collar is missing. Got the PC7 ordered to fix the cracks in the steering wheel and the hunt for the steering bevel gear continues. Thinking to just save the patina. Maybe, I'll coat it with Penetrol our something to stop it from rusting. Thanks for the help and encouragement. A little cooler weather and I'll get it out in the sun. Thinking I'll call this little tractor C.B. in honor of my wife's grandfather. He's the one who found it on the scrap pile years ago and told me to save it. Dave

Here is the one I had a few years ago:

The 100 and the 70, in my opinion, were the best looking Cub Cadets. And they were a big improvement over the Cub Cadet Original, as they weren't so low and eliminated the small belt in the driveline.

On my 520H it was the 2 piece intake manifold. It was leaking where it goes together causing it to suck air and would surge. You have to take manifold off to fix right, not too bad of a job but isn't to fun either. May as well decarb, adjust valves, etc etc. why you have it tore apart that far also.

Got the modified bracket mounted with mostly new bolts. New high powered alternator in. The belt even fits after the changeover! Next is to make and install the new alternator wiring harness.

I upgraded the wheels and tires, 30 x 10 -12 Interforce AGs on the rear and 4.00-12 tri-ribs on steel wheels and 4 bolt cast iron hubs on the front

Got the hood painted up today for the C120. Now that my Simplicity mower has brakes I can take the C120 out of service and pull the rest of the sheet metal. Hopefully all the tin will be painted before temps drop.

We changed the brake pads and rotors on my nephew's truck and my van last weekend. What to do with those old rotors? Well, since they fit perfectly on a 12" rim we made some inside/outside wheel weights out of them. Outside Inside

I know I’m not the only one around here that finds it kind of amazing how perfectly good re-purposable stuff goes off to the scrapyard for pennies a pound or simply thrown in the trash. I made a great back yard fire pot by bolting together a pair of brake drums that came off a semi my friendly local alignment shop gave me for next to nothing. I topped it off with a recycled grill and now it is one. It’s pretty impressive for a piece of junk if I do say so myself. It’s hurricane proof in any case! Lolz

I was talking with my cousin today and he mentioned ignition module coil, He was a mechanic in the Air Force. Rebuilding engines stuff like that so it sounds like he knows what he’s talking about. This is for Kohler engines. I found on eBay for $35. It covers K141 all the way up to 301s and beyond just wondering if anybody has ever tried This. Would be nice not to mess with points anymore more. Let me know your experience with these. Any comments are welcome.

Yup! The correct spring did the trick! I think i am also used to the worn belt that was slipping, the as well as the worn strut. Now it feels like a true tractor not a lawn mower from lowes any more.

Change it sooner than later. If it is one of the horse-shoe shaped springs and it broke the remaining piece will dig into the pump head with use, egging out the hole, gouging the surface, and ultimately making it unable to retain a new spring.

There are two kinds of springs used in the 1054 pumps. Open it up to see what spring you need prior to calling Lowell. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydraulics/page/2/

@cleat no luck on choke lever must of dun used it but will keep my eyes open just in case I over looked it.

I found the issue! There are 2 screws that attach the lift handle to the pump (spool valve). One of the screws was gone so moving the handle was not moving the spool. Thanks to all that responded to this post! I now have another pump related question but will start a new thread for that.

Happy Birthday 🎂 🥳 🎉

A set of old vice grips at Zagray: $3 Fancy official certified battery cable clamp: $10

If all you plan to do with the tractor is putter around, 1.5 HP will do ya. Only need more to mow, plow, or tow stuff.

Happy Birthday Brian

Happy Birthday

I guess I just don't give my work enough credit and would rather the original or repop I mean I do plan to round the edges but it's not very thick. 1/8 flat stock with another small patch of left over peice down the spine in hopes it will make it rigid enough. I also know what I put my old 414-8 threw and I snapped your standard bolts easy. Then when I went to grade 8 bolts I started bending and wallering out the holes and bending lift arm and plow bracket pretty bad. To be far I was young but cleared a solid acre or acre and a half of rough land hill sides.

I replace mine with these. Still the same 9 pin but better sealed. Never had an issue with these. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/130984528895?_skw=9+Way+Sealed+Splash+Proof+Mate+N+Lok+Electrical+Wiring+Multi+Connector&itmmeta=01M1E8XPVRR30FBC63P7NN1AWN&hash=item1e7f494bff:g:obkAAOSwHUhZ9zsO&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBFckF4xCQsfHMXWf6Z0COGyJzdUsd9P2EgTVb4pqLNd9xOFTCbfCCDrovq2iDeaCAgnxf0xqWJmqPZAjN6w0%2B4IfIx3eveikffGpL%2BUiPjKGjfWXFmNHFvxLod3q1N2xbSXXJc4jR49KUe5RCL0GTgXbpHSvSyLklhTR5i1%2FumFY2ICnozFIMqGea3HHD5rx7QFzyCbcm8aD7U1oFPo9onA%2BINFGW55WLvujQDsMKLtiLxZxKRJtI2VyysLaMObBAYiVsvcspIhDeBHnjv1%2F%2BsDNfoSrFQ%2B5%2FCKeiuZwwSwBfmMmrF6y7sbdnnMcGx2Sk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Lu9siLaA

The clutch on your tractor is a pulley with spring tension against the belt . When you step on the clutch it pulls the pulley away from the belt. Check your drive belt for wear, check your tension spring, and also check you engine and transmission pulley set screws & keys. My first guess though would be that your drive belt is wore / stretched and needs replacing.