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Had a few out for some fresh air today.

Made a couple mods to the Wheel Horse tiller. The front cover plate was missing, so I scrounger a piece of steel from an old real estate sign with the intension of sanding it and using the red primer method of creating a matching patina. When I got it installed, I just couldn't sand off the eagle. The tiller was only 22 inches wide, so I added two pairs of tines to each side to make it as wide as the rear tires.

July 23, 1996, at the Summer Olympics in Atlanta, Georgia, the U.S. women’s gymnastics team wins its first-ever team gold. The 1996 U.S. women’s team, nicknamed the “Mag 7″ or “magnificent seven,” was made up of seven immensely talented teenaged girls: Amanda Borden, Amy Chow, Dominique Dawes, Shannon Miller, Dominique Moceanu, Jaycie Phelps and Kerri Strug. The team entered the Summer Olympics with the expectations of an entire country heaped on their young shoulders. They were considered America’s best shot ever at an Olympic team gold, something no American women’s gymnastics team had ever won. The American women’s best finish to that point had been a silver at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics.

Sunset last night. That's actually a rainbow but the camera did not catch the other colors in the fading light.

I worked the Troy-bilt assembly line, on Both the Horse and Pony models back in early 80s. Troy-bilt was a good company till MTD bought them out and they moved out of Troy N.Y. The guy who makes DR mowers first worked at Troy-bilt then moved on to start his own business.

No clutch plate on that. Drive belt could be slipping or it could be an axle hub which could be damaging the axle so you'll need to narrow down where the slippage is. Most likely a worn drive belt. Look to see if the pulley on the transaxle is turning when it happens. If that pulley isn't turning, it's the belt. If it's turning, look to see if one of the axles is spinning in the wheel hub.

a little past sunrise.

Not a directly behind pic but close enough for guberment work.

Big trash night score tonight... Picked up down the street with the A-60 and the trailer... Owner says ran when parked... we'll see. Motor spins freely.

Snapped this cool picture today! 1445 Auto, Allis Chalmers WD45, and 57 Pontiac Star Chief I call it “Generational Wealth”

Likely just a spare as I have a dedicated mowing 520H (with a 16 Onan on it), my 520HC is the snow plow tractor, and another 520H is set up for the two stage blower. I have 10 tractors now with most of them restored (my wife thinks I'm crazy).

Well....it looks like I've got my winter project lined up, just picked it up today Found this one on FB and after thinking about it for a few days I contacted the seller and we made the deal. The ad listed the tractor, 5' pto mounted finish mower and possibly a push blade (if he could find it!). While I was on the road going to pick it up he texted me and mentioned they found a few more implements and I could have them if I wanted them. Heck yeah!! Included in the package was the tractor, finish mower, snow plow, Brinly disc harrow, what appears to be a Ford 3pt plow and a homemade 3pt plow, and what might be a homemade box blade although it looks pretty decent. It has the optional 15" rear wheels with rear wheel weights. The snow plow is for the B and C series tractors and the sad part is according to the seller, his father bought the blade in new condition from someone who never used it. So basically it's a brand new blade that's been sitting outside for at least 20-30 years. Oddly enough the seat looks almost brand new. It turns out every fall his dad would take the seat off and store it inside, putting it back on in the spring. The gas tank looks solid but there is a distinct possibility it will need to be boiled and then sealed inside to make it useable. The story behind the tractor is the sellers dad bought it 30 years ago and used it for 12 years before parking it, they started using a zero turn which was faster. For 11 of those 18 years that it sat outside unused. Seven years ago he moved it into his basement with the hopes of restoring it. Unfortunately he never got around to it. In theory, it was running and driving when parked. Oh yeah almost forgot, included was the original operators manual AND an original parts list. For the past few days I tried searching for a downloadable parts list and couldn't find one. I am going to scan this one and if possible upload it to the forum. Possibly someone could explain how to do the upload. One quick question, it needs mufflers, are there suitable replacements available that don't cost $603 each as shown on the Toro site. Thanks! More to come.... Edit: it also came with a 3 pt cultivator and what i thought was the operator manual is actually a service procedure manual that describes all of the new features of the new 18 HP model with detailed descriptions and pictures. The manual was intended for the mechanics that went through their service school.

See if you have power on both terminals of the ammeter. If not remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Put both ammeter wires on one terminal - does not matter which. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery. No fuse originally but one may have been added which is a good idea. It would be between the solenoid battery terminal and the ammeter. The reason for negative cable removal first and last connection to be made is if you accidently short the power to the chassis no harm done. The circuit is not complete because there is no negative connected. Let us know what you find.

It’s OFFICIAL, @ebinmaine gets the award for “Sunrise with the most power lines in it” Congratulations Eric!👍🏻Good job 👍🏻😂😂

You know when Cleat ties into a tractor it's done right!

Could be said by nearly all of us. In short sir, you are not alone!

Worst piece of wood I ever tried to finish It was constantly fuzzy trying to sand it and possibly contaminated veith oil or Cosmoline. I used gel stain on it but it looked too much like paint . I used Danish oil on it and that made it some better but still not great. Finally after a couple of coats dried in I applied more and used 800 grit to take off the high and fill in the low. At least it's reasonably smooth and is sealing up well. Wood like this stains like a photo negative with the grain light and the field dark. Chinese Sks stock .

Wiener mobile!!! This is one of the trucks I've piloted recently. We're taking some old scrap metal racks to recycling.

Well, I found out why the tractor needed the solenoid jumped to start it. The battery connection terminal on the ignition switch is corroded completely. Here is the old connector for the ignition switch. New connector installed. The other connectors are in decent shape and will easily clean up. Since the indicator board is completely corroded as well, I decided to simply eliminate it and all it's associated wiring in the harness. I also eliminated the seat switch and associated relays etc. The neutral switch is gone as well since I will be installing a self centering foot control. Here is the harness as pulled. Here is the harness cleaned up and simplified. Here is the harness ready to be installed. I hooked it up to a battery and plugged in a new ignition switch, low oil relay, PTO switch, and 2 new fuses and tested all functions. Everything works perfectly including grounding the magneto for shutdown (yes, I do have the correct magneto ignition switch).

Tractor is mostly torn apart. Frame, engine and rear end have preliminary degreasing done. Don't mind the yellow wheels, they are just for moving the tractor around. Wagon load of parts. These are all cleaned up and ready for bead blasting and/or sanding.

Just found this thread so here’s some. Mostly sunsets.

I dragged this machine home last summer and figured I might as well begin work on it. This is what I am starting with. It had no carb so I got a cheap china carb for it and it will start by jumping the solenoid as the wiring has issues. Hydro seems strong and engine runs quiet and as smooth as a single cylinder can.

@whtractors24 Son of gun! You got me beat Jason! Mine has 24 hrs on it. 😂

There is a ton of twist in the frame of this. @c-series don gave me a straight frame, and I need to transfer all the hardware over. It needs new bushings for the spindles and I’d like to give it some sort of lift kit for the big weeds and grass.

Pretty sure they are still on the endangered list so right call Ed

I front mount mowed (my first time mowing with a hydrostatic Wheel Horse!) and cultivated the food plot area.

Yes. the one on the right will work. You will also need the axle bracket to mount the plow.

You need the one on the right. Here is a list of them. You also need the correct rear axle brackets. Dozer DNA of long tractor frame dozer blades 1966-1967 model BD-426 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle - replaced by 1968 model 6-1111 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle with a loose A-frame crossbar - Lift bracket behind crossmember - replaced by 1969 model [6-4112 + 6-9621] - First to have lift bracket ahead of crossmember 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 - (Last blade to have a loose A-frame crossbar #7701) 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here including this one they are 42" wide) and (First blade to have a welded-in rear A-frame crossbar) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) - replaced by the following 1990 model 06-48BC02 (Last blade to have 3 angle positions) 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 (First blade to have 5 angle positions) 1993-2000 model 79350 - Up until now uses a wire to index pin (105-1502 cable kit adapts 2000 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors) 2001 model 79350 - Has cable to index pin (105-1502 cable kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors) 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - Has cable to index pin (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series)

There. I fixed it for you.

The little vent on the right rear sheet was fun. I pulled the vent off, forgot to measure, then proceeded to install the aluminum! A little precision guess work and I found center enough to saw a 2-1/2” hole, then trim the edges to 3” with some hand shears.

Thanks so much. I was looking around the PTO and it appears to be a little bit of oil around there. I was wondering if maybe the oil is getting on the belt. These are all great ideas. I’ll take a look and see what I find out. Thanks for your help. I’ll let you know what I find out.

From my 1985 312-8 . They just closed the doors last month after 70 years in business!

If my wife comments on the number of Wheel Horses I have I just go to her sewing room and she knows I don't have as many as she has sewing machines. Looking forward to the "clean up". Who are you kidding; it will be another 100% restoration.

Wide rear of a 1974 C160-8 with OTR Lawn Trac tires and a bonus super old seed spreader. Sneak peak of a @76c12091520h trailer hitch too!

Just realizing I’m the last one who posted a picture, basically the same.

Fixed it for you.

The negative terminal and ground connection are just as important. If the engine is is mounted on a shaker plate check the ground wire going to the engine mount.

@Beap52 ever get a penetrating oil soak down going on that ? I live in , conn , road salt eats stuff alive , want a spray pattern idea for rust zones ? go to a big box parking lot , especially contractor area , get a lubrication top down crawl goin , aerosol spray in to top of tail gate , seaming . day or two notice , bottom of tail gate , with lowest seam oil film? no rust / rot , napa , chain and cable aerosol , excellent creeper , over spray that , days later with , open gear aerosol , that really stands up , no rust anywhere . pete

I am not sure about small engines, but in general I have found it to be exceedingly rare to have the actual part numbers stamped or cast into the part. They are usually stamping numbers that reference the die or mold used to make the part, or an engineering number that can be converted into a part number with the correct reference material.

Yep. The best ways would be to post in the wanted section https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/ or contact one of the vendors on this site https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/92-vendors/ like K&B or A-Z. BTW... to the site fellow North Carolinian!!

It’s a 😄

My last two nights have been spent working on my truck. I've been chasing an exhaust leak since this time last year. I'll fix one thing, it will seem OK for a day or two, then it starts getting worse again. Sunday I found a hole in one of the header tubes and the brazing rods I've repaired everything else with would not stick to that metal. I couldn't get the flange bolts in the head to budge, so last night off came the cab. Tonight I actually go the headers out, with only two broken bolts. Thankfully those two are in flanges and I can just drill them out over-sized and re-tap without worrying about damaging over things. I've already done it to the same engine in another of my vehicles.

Between painting The fence and porch trim and hauling garden dirt I managed to get the lawn mowed with the C-160.

Some things here I haven’t seen in a while: openable vent, window crank, third pedal.

Spent the day doing some more yard projects. Other half and I decided to sell the pool this year and buy a park pass and travel different state parks this summer. We also decided to turn the old pool location into a new flower garden. So spent the day digging out the sand and digging down the under layer of soil and ordered 6 yards of garden soil. They said it was going to be delivered by the end of the weekend. Awesome! Now I have the time to dig all that sand out. We'll I dug all the sand out and wouldnt you know I looked up and tue dumptruck was dumping my garden soil. So no rest for the wicked right to filling wheelbarrows and the new garden spot. Also built a walk way from my pad though the garden to the lawn. Turned out pretty nice.

Stopped to see the potential repair guy about my truck on the way home. ... It went really well. I need to get my truck ready to be towed down there Tuesday or Wednesday of next week so he can look at it late week.... Knock on wood. I hope this all works out. I told him what I was up to, and he seemed like he was kind of already on the same page before I even defined anything. Once we get the rear axle issue figured all out, he's going to give the rest of the truck a check over to see what kind of inspection issues and needed repairs we come up with.

Got the Echo CS490 chainsaw back together. Muffler modification completed, and I cleaned out the case of old sawdust. It took me a few tries to dial it in just right. I can definitely recommend doing this mod. The supposed 10% - 15% power gain is enough to make a difference. Not massive. But a usable real-world difference.

The plumbers showed up today. Unloaded their mini excavator and waited for all of the utilities folks to mark where their various pipes and wires are located - none of which were in the area where the digging was going to take place. But, tis the law, and better to be safe than sorry. About 6 1/2 feet down, the sewer pipes were located. Big soggy soft spot around the house trap. The trap (clay piece) appeared to have a crack on the inlet side. Lots of buildup in the pipes, suggesting a slow flow for some time. The house trap is now gone, replaced with about 7 feet of 6" PVC and a clean out tee. Back fill is scheduled for tomorrow.