Leaderboard

Bud put a gear drive deck I sold him onto a C-120. Looks like something WH should have offered from the factory!

April 29, 1872 Jesse James' gang robbed the Deposit Bank of Columbia, Kentucky, killing a bank employee during the crime after he refused to open the safe. Five gang members, including Frank and Jesse James and members of the Younger family, escaped with roughly $ 1,500 in one of their smallest, yet most violent, heists.

You CAN, but you shouldn't. We all know two things about the pond family philosophy toward building Wheel Horses, they built a quality product and they were very thrifty (not to be confused with being cheap). The flex top nuts used by Wheel Horse cost $ 1.08 today as compared to the Nylok nuts of the same size at $ 0.28 each at McMaster-Carr. If the Ponds were willing to spend about four times as much for these nuts there had to be a good reason for doing it. Flex-Top Locknuts for Heavy Vibration Image of Product. Front orientation. Locknuts. Flex-Top Locknuts for Heavy Vibration. The top section of these nuts expands to grip the screw on all sides for a stronger hold than both nylon-insert and distorted-thread locknuts. They’re often used in equipment with constant, vigorous vibration, such as engines. These locknuts are reusable a handful of times, but the holding power decreases with each use. Steel These locknuts have equivalent strength to Grade 8 and Class 10 steel nuts. To avoid stripped threads during installation, make sure your screw has a comparable strength rating. Black-Oxide Steel 3/8"-24 9/16" 15/32" 5 94820A430 5.42 Nylon-Insert Locknuts Versatile yet economical, these are the most commonly used locknuts. The nylon insert grips the screw to prevent loosening from moderate vibration without damaging threads. However, the insert may become brittle if exposed to high temperatures. These locknuts are reusable a handful of times, but the holding power decreases with each use. Zinc-Yellow-Chromate-Plated Steel 3/8"-24 9/16" 29/64" SAE Grade 8 185 — 20 97135A235 5.71

Zach cuttin’ lawn for the first time this season on BlackBeard!

And don't use a hammer. The axle is secured with a clip inside the uni-drive and you can dislodge it which means you'll have to open the case to fix that. This is a really cheap puller that I made from an old hub. Works great with an impact wrench.

I picked up a couple round steel plates and made these. I also have a third plate with plans to make a back plate with a smaller center hole to hug the axle going behind the entire hub. That might be nice in situations where there's enough gap between the case and hub.

Decided to try to locate a fuel leak in the carburetor area. I ended up finding that the fuel solenoid rod head (don't know the real name) was slightly bent and not sealing 100%. I'm posting a picture but the bend might not be enough to see in it. I installed a new solenoid and associated wire harness, because the original connector was too loose. The new solenoid has a rubber covering over the head.

Finally got to split the trans for the 10-8 today. Sure did have some water in it. Got it cleaned up, replaced all the seals and reassembled. Got it back installed but now needs some new woodruff keys for the axles and drive pulley. In theory it’ll be back up and moving under its own power Monday.

use an electric pump save time money and frustration and avoid gas in your crankcase

I use these better grip than nylock They have a grade 9 version which is what i used in my D200 also had to get Gr9 bolts

They HAD to write that .... Reality is a little different. Just be sure to carefully check ALL rubber fuel components. Replace all the lines. Rebuild the carb. Rebuild the fuel pump. Carefully clean out the tank. A little work now saves multitudes of headaches later.

Absolutely ... more than twice a year for a daily driver. Even after a couple hours if just installed. If I have to take a hub off for any reason it automatically gets a second set screw.

Here in southwest Missouri the past couple of days has suffered turbulent weather. There have been some tornados, hail and heavy rain. As far as I know, no one hurt in the tornadoes and they were on the smaller scale. Fortunately we have only had rain but around us on all four sides, hail has been a big issue. Below is a hail that hit the Springfield area today. That's nearly a five incher--most pictured on the local news was in the 2 to 3 1/2" range. I don't know where it was found. I saw pictures of plywood roof decking with holes punched through it. I reckon thousands of vehicles were damaged--many totaled. An animal at the Springfield zoo died and others were injured as a result of the hail. I can say I've never saw a hail stone as large as the one pictured. When I was a kid, I know my grandpa had pigs (not full grown) who suffered broken backs due to hail. Last year, we had had a second roof replaced on our house in the past three years. When I built the house, I had "hail resistant" roofing but we got a new roof every time our neighbors had their standard contractor grade roofing replaced. Our hail was 1 1/2" to two inch diameter. I don't want have to deal with that hassle again.

The B-80 was produced from 1974 to 1977 with the K-181. But it never came with a start/gen motor. The wiring will have to be somewhat custom.

Look at car racing. Started with a couple cameras spaced around the track plus a couple focused on areas like the announcers, pits, and finish line. Now multiple remotely-controlled cameras mounted in every car as well telemetry displays for the details and “you are there” views. There are usually several drone cameras and track-embedded cameras in addition to numerous trackside cameras. if I were to bet, there must be over 750 live video & audio sources plus endless amounts of archive material available to a NASCAR race TV producer.

Absolutely... they loosen up and wallow keyways then.

Problem with nylock nuts is heat and age with exposure to gear oil differentials can get quite warm and thermal expansion can distort the nylon insert over time it loosens - like others said, not something to have happen in those transmissions... Use the correct locking nuts (even $2 extra per nut over 8 nuts is still much cheaper insurance than having to buy new gears, or worse, transaxle case) we always also added red loctite to the nuts when rebuilding those, even with those prevailing torque locknuts.

A little cut here, drill there, and tack weld about, and I have a latch that fits inside my door. It still has no way to hold the door from swinging in the wind (yet).

As Mike mentioned, a 3 jaw puller is NOT the right tool for this job. I made up one using a large bearing seperator, an existing Snap-on fine-pitch (preferred) puller screw with stationary tip, and machined parts. It pulls from behind the hub just outside the shaft... Had to add stiffener plates as pictured. It works well. ALSO - while the puller of choice is installed and under tension - tap the end of the puller to shock the hub. Sometimes, that makes the difference to get it to move...

Put a tube in front tire. Tired of pumping it up even though it sits 5 feet from the compressor.

That would look good in @Pullstart's pool!

Finally got some time to start the engine swap on the C175. Next up is a good pressure wash before starting the install. Need to find a 5.25” (hydro) pulley. I broke a chunk out trying to get it off.

NOT an application for a USED nylok nut. They form (displace??) a thread into the nylon portion the frist time used - that is how they get their grip. A re-used one has much less retention. Totally agree that bad things (think expensive) happen when the nut works loose.....

The saga of the super slow rebuild continues!

All gasoline should be stored in tightly sealed containers. Gasoline containing ethanol will suck the moisture right out of the air. I wonder if those that complain about ethanol store the fuel properly and keep gas caps open for the least amount of time possible. Knock on wood but I haven't had an ethanol related problem for about 20 years despite using E10 in everything but the 2 cycle equipment.

CasaytheMann, when you say "there are no gas stations near you that sell non-ethanol gas" please define 'near you' the reason i and others on here are sooo adamant about using pure gas is because the ethanol crap causes sooo many headaches down the road. i travel a little over 1 hour each way to get pure gas. for me it is time well spent.

Got the cushions in the mail today, got new screws and mounted them to the pan then to the tractor. I think the logo pops. Matt did an excellent job. I’d take better pictures but it’s raining and I don’t want it wet already. edit: Later on I adjusted the back rest cushion as it was a tad off, my fault during install.

But hey, the stuff inside is mostly dry. 😉

I’m soaked from the rain, but making progress!

I may have one. Have to check. Message later to remind me. Yours for shipping cost

Depending upon the year of the tractor it may have also been an availability thing. Nyloc nuts (nylon insert locknuts) began becoming widely available in the 1950s to early 1960s, following their invention in 1931 and increasing adoption in the post-war industrial boom. While early versions existed, production increased significantly by companies like Abbott Interfast (beginning 1964) as they became standard in industries needing vibration resistance, such as automotive and aerospace. RS Components +4 Invention: Invented in 1931 by United Shoe Machinery. Early Adoption: While invented earlier, widespread industrial usage grew throughout the 1950s. Production Boom: The 1960s saw widespread availability, with manufacturers like Abbott starting high-volume production in 1964. Initial Use: Primarily used to replace expensive, traditional methods of locking nuts, such as two nuts on a single bolt.

The front door can latch open or closed, and will function smooth. Plus a bonus it’s custom

Wide world of Sports - I recall their coverage live via satellite of the 1964 Winter Olympics from Austria - the year with "no" snow. The most snow was in the grainy footage on the TV screen.....

And that is why I check the position of the hubs and the torque on the grub screws twice a year. In the spring & fall when doing seasonal tire & implement changeover..

I trimmed the rod to length and assembled one latch. The door opens and closes with clearance, and shuts well. Now I just need to blow the rest of the latches apart and repeat the process.

Proof of concept! I can build the remaining latches and trim the rods to length, then install them in the door frames. I’ll then install the door steel, drill through holes, and assemble. This feels good!

Unexpectedly won this horse at auction a couple weeks age just got her home. It was in the non running section but I saw the hydro lift and figured parts for that alone would be worth something but figured someone else would see that also. They didn't and I won. $60. Hydro gear plus lift I figured it was hacked up Charger Electro. Turn out it is a short frame1965-77 Wheelamatic. But I don't believe hydro lift was even an option for those. Then there is the deck. I have never seen one like this before. It is I believe a complete and in good shape RM425 a 42 inch deck for short frames. The mechanism looks rube goldberg but based on a picture I saw seems to be complete. When I thought it was a long frame, I had a K301 I would put in it and if the hydro worked sell it. But she really needs a small base big block S/G which I don't have.

You can teach an old dog new tricks. Well done. And it moves it a tad forward - a good thing - than on a short frame tractor. Added bonus - heel rests on the top of the deck using the gear covers. The arrow decal that says "Keep Well Greased" takes on a new meaning - inside, not outside!!

There are a ton of threads here on hub pulling. Search on hub and puller and you will find them. Anything from store bought hydraulic to homemade ones. Check those threads to see if you can come up with something you may already have. If you have the thicker steel hubs a three jaw puller will not hurt them. The more fragile "star" type cast ones you will break them.A heat wrench will sometimes come into play. As mentioned DO NOT pound outward on the it and check the bearings.

The latch fits inside the door, and I believe with another roll pin through that 304 stainless steel rod, it can create a key to engage the post bracket. I’ll need to trim the length of the rod, but it’s proving to be doable.

I have run into this problem before. I drilled into the key using the keyway as a guide with bit the same size as the key, this weakened the key enough to allow it to crush down and come free.

@CasaytheMann nice work! Make sure to use no ethanol fuel with that rubber snubber, ethanol tends to wreak havoc on rubber components

That was Monday, right? I'm pretty sure I drove through that area on US 65 shortly after that storm passed through. I started in Sedalia. The storm was off to the east pretty much until I got to Branson - where I drove in pretty heavy rain to the Arkansas border. In Sedalia we just got lots of rain. We woke up Monday morning to water coming into the basement through the floor drains. Once I got my pump set up, we had water about 2" deep in the basement.

40” is approaching the width of a jon boat…probabky not easy to paddle but what a barge. Grumman made those 19’ square stern canoes. They’re wide enough in the center postion to actually have room for oars so came with oarlocks. Never owned one, but we used to use them at the place we stayed in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness on the border between Minnesota and Ontario. Most of the BWCA’s one million acres is a no-motor wilderness, but a few of the lakes allow small outboards. Grumman rated that canoe for a 5hp, but the resort owner beefed up the transoms and we’d hang a 9.9 or 15 on them. With two guys and a week’s worth of camping gear that 9.9 would really scoot that load. We’d get to the end of the motorized area and stash the motor and tank in the forest then paddle the rest of the way so we could spend a week fishing what was essentially untouched water. those 19 footers were stable enough that two of us could stand at the same time and cast for pike or bass. Not easy to paddle and I bet they kind of suck in current, but great for what we used them for. Reminiscing about this reminds me that I can’t believe the stuff I got away with doing as a kid…with my parents’ blessing. Cousins and i took multiple camping trips miles away from any kind of civilization where we didn’t see another human for a week at a time in the BWCA. Canoeing, portaging, catching fish, hanging packs in the trees, picking blueberries…man, what a charmed life I had as a kid. Steve

You can buy a sheet of rubberized cork gasket material at any auto parts store and cut your own.

Took a little 6hr drive after work yesterday in order to make an addition to the family. I would like to introduce our new girl Sooki.

Got some fence lines mowed before the rain starts. Checked out tomorrows auction. An interesting boat. And a Commando 800

And maybe some Loctite, for extra confidence, don't need them nuts working off, very bad things happen.

This 300 hp CAT 3126 and Allison 6 speed combo with 235/80R22.5 tires was very easy on the throttle. Mind you we were traveling nearly empty, but I80 through Nebraska and Iowa have quite a selection of hills to climb. We did the same route with the 8.3 Cummins coach, same transmission and pushing 295/75R22.5 tires. Supposedly that Cummins was 400 hp, but all the lies she told me, I don’t believe anythings she said at this point. It was also empty, for reference. I really like this CAT setup.