Leaderboard

Good news, guys. The name Wheel Horse and the logo will live on, with new Wheel Horses tractors and implements being built. MTD has purchased the Wheel Horse name and logo from Toro, and will start building new equipment with the famed Wheel Horse name and logo. Ridney Dongerfield, a spokesman for MTD, said, "Wheel Horse never got the respect. MTD is proud to announce that Wheel Horse will be joining our line of garden equipment, joining names like Troy Bilt, Cub Cadet, and Bolens." The new Wheel Horses will be built using MTD's reputation for quality products and is expected to look similar to a Yardman, but with the famed Wheel Horse logo, name and color scheme. Prices to be similar to a new Cub Cadet, with several models being planned. Models will include tractors with various deck sizes, engine sizes and features. Expect new tractors to start appearing February 30 of next year.

Put the new shoes on the horse today since the wheels were good and dry. Wheel weights back on tomorrow. And a nice straight hood is in the works. Some minor body work and then prime and paint. Old one has major damage.

April 1, 1965, The Sound of Music first came out in the USA with its world premiere in New York City on March 2, 1965, as a limited "roadshow" release, with a wider nationwide release on April 1, 1965, marking its debut in theaters across the country.

It needs to be put back together.

I see it came with a boat anchor for your next lake trip.

HORSEFIXER ON YOU TUBE

I found a chunk of 1/2" thick x 2" wide steel bar and made two more spacers. I now have the rear hitch spaced down 7/8" I now have 4-1/2" of lift on the blade and still have some down float when fully lowered as well. Not a lot when compared to my big tractor and it's cat 1 three point hitch but better than it was. Hopefully now I can move it around the yard in the summer without ripping up too much sod.

I have 3/8" thick spacers. Maybe I need to make thicker ones.

Wishful thinking but MTD??? Should be JD that will reaally get blood boiling!

A bit of a shocker for sure. I can remember when Duke was VERY active on the forum. I pray his family is comforted during this time. Regardless of what his health was, this was way too soon!

Today I put the 417-A with blower away for the year, so I had to move some tractors around. Figured I’d snap a few pics, couldn’t wait for side shot Saturday to post 😂 Sorry for the grease on the front wheel of the 418-C I removed it immediately after I took the picture 😂 I figured I’d say that before one of you wise guys said something about it!!

Here we go, got them both done. Going to pull the front axle to check on the axle pin and spindles see if I can tighten things up.

Go to Tractor Supply and get a 5L820 and a 5L810. Use the one that fits best and return the other and you'll be fine. It's a Hydro so you don't have to worry about clutching.

The external characteristics for “6-speeds” are: - 1-2-3-R shifter - Hi-lo shifter - No top-side hole for a dipstick - A 1” pipe extension on the oil fill at the lower left rear of the transaxle (allows filling oil to a higher level) - 5/8” (0.625) input drive shaft but it’s shorter than later 8-speeds’ (corrected 6Apr26 -- thanks @kpinnc) - A brake drum that brings the brake band to within an inch of the rear axle housing casting - A brake drum that turns clockwise when the tractor is moving forward There was at least one “8-speed” that also had a LSD--I think it was the 5073. This had a topside dipstick port and the brake drum was farther from the rear axle and turned counter-clockwise and had a ⅝” input shaft making it externally indistinguishable from an open-differential 8-speed. As for the rest, the link to the thread in @953 nut’s post (above) has the relevant information.

Actually, the seat shown looks like the one I put on all of my builds. These have several different armrest mounting points. I get these now at Princess Auto but I used to get them at tractor supply before they closed. Arm rests are very hard to find new now it seems.

Absolutely beautiful machines, and a little grease will just earn you a pass from Pete!

lol I appreciate that. I was contemplating buying another one for my 73 WH because it needs a new seat bad but I don’t wanna drill new hole in the fender, I was also thinking of using the U-shaped seat spring mounts which should bolt up, and making a cross bar and bolting a ford 8N seat to it because I like the red and white seat covers available for them. Just haven’t decided yet.

Put new seat on the newly acquired 312-8. This seat was not a direct fit for this tractor. It had a bunch of holes but they were about a half hole off . Easy enough to fix because the previous seat already had an adapter on bottom and it fit new seat great. This is a very late model tractor and dont really know if all the 300 series has the same seat bolt pattern. I am very pleased with the seat it has the heavy rubber type cover and sets very good.

There fixed that too...

Not a real Lead Sled but a lead plow horse for sure

EXACTLY. HAHA. 😂

It does 😀

Glad you said something Cleat. Thought maybe we have to have another ungly seat contest Black duck tape is all I can tell ya Don. Sometimes hard to find a replacement that takes those arm rests. I've learned to live with ugly seats.

I didn't take it that way, no problem. The "give up" corner is full for now, so keep

Looks like it should be a 1971 Workhorse 800

Even if this was true I don't think I'd want to buy them since they would be made by Made To Die

If anyone has any pictures of Duke please add them to this topic . Pictures of either the 520 - H or the C-120 Snowchucker projects would be nice. He also had a nice 417- A he did a refurb on . I know he had a lot of older WH tractors as well. I will try to add pictures as I come across them if I can. I think he would like that. Thanks Guy's.

April fools

Ha Ha, I'm glad that terrible mess was taken care of. The poor seat needs some love. On a positive note, I like how high your blade lifts on the 418. My 520HC does not go that high before it contacts the tractor (where abouts I can't remember right now).

I made an @Achto, Wisconsin approved bench mill/lathe combo out of a death wheel on a hand grinder and ran it atop a skill saw blade. I trimmed up a yank start ring and installed it on top of the cooling fan screen. The larger diameter makes starting easier and the recoil has given me fits since we put this tractor together. In preparation for the plow day next weekend, I replaced the clevis hitch with a slot hitch, so I can run a longer plow that I have available.

Definitely has more traction than the right wheel I had on it.

They finally caught it. It's all safe & sound. I ever mention that I can't eat kangaroo meat? It makes me jumpy

So sad to hear. I really need to finish the front end loader he started, I’m so close. He was one of the first few semi-local guys I met in this hobby, and we talked for about 2 hours it seemed while I was picking up a tiller from his house. Momma wasn’t quite impressed with our ability to never end the discussion, and neither were my young kids in the Suburban

The only guy I ever knew that had a Hula dancer in the cab of his snow chucker.

Hi all, started working on my 856, ended up rebuilding the engine and while waiting for parts started working on steering, lots of slop. Pulled tie rods, steering wheel and shafts. Front of frame was wollowed and shaft end worn. Steering block got two bushings and steering wheel shaft cleaned up, installed upper dash bushing, reinforced bushing with steel puddy and new lock collar. Ordered hiem joints for tie rods and will machine new rods when I get parts. Don't forget the green high temp grease.

See if you can find an electrical conduit lock nut to add to the fitting before you install it into the block. Install the fitting as far as it will go into the block and then back it out at least 1/2 a turn so the fitting is loose. Using a hammer and punch now tighten the lock nut against the block. Fitting is now tight. If you remove using the reverse sequence once a year it will likely never be seized again. I always apply graphite to the threads as it seems to help. What the lock nuts look like available from Home Depot or the like. They are available for all common pipe sizes. This is a procedure I learned from a small engine repair shop that serviced thousands of small engines a year. It was part of their regular service.

@cleat I don’t have any spacers on the rear axle bracket. In fact I’ve never used spacers on any of my tractors. Usually I just use the factory solid lift link in the furthest out hole in the rockshaft.

My 1970 GT-14 has a limited slip transaxle. I installed a six speed in a 953 many years ago, at the time I didn't know about the GT-14 axle swap. I did have to drill and tap a new hole in the case for the mounting point and elongated a hole in the mounting plate. No Pictures but it was no big deal. This thread will give you all the answers about six and eight speeds.

I have a 2500# HF Badlands ATV winch that I’ve had on my ATV 3 or 4 years and it still works fine. I also have an aluminum jack from them that I’ve had for at least 4 with no issues either. I guess it’s kind of like Russian roulette if it lasts or not. So far I’ve been lucky.

Haha not this one! Too many tractors right now.

Since they are all simple black iron pipe components that are readily available, why not just go with new pieces??

I met Duke and his wife MJ a number of times, at one time he was a very active participant and I had often wondered why he dropped out. Rest in Peace Duke.

Causing a torn rotator cuff. Ask me how I know!

The rear third didn't set just right yesterday so I did some readjusting to the seam. A little more grinding on the plastic at the top. Stuck it back together and let it rest for a while. When it felt strong enough I started laying down/in/on/out some filler.

One of the advantages of using styrene is that "too late".... isn't. I can definitely add another piece to the back here. I knew about the ability to mold the sheets (That's likely how I'll make the front and rear fenders) but not what to "wrap" on to. I'd need to create something with a different convex in the up/down and left/right directions. It would also need to be such a slightly and thin taper I'm not sure how to accomplish the task. Wood would be to thin I think 🤔? Perhaps it's a @Wheel Horse 3D job?

Got the project tanker trailer back on the desk this morning. Last week I used a black marker to accent where all the visible defects and mold lines were in the plastic. Wet sand those marks off. Wash & dry, then recheck the surface. Mark more if needed. I found this method on YT. Seems similar to the way @Achto uses different primer colors to find highs and lows. Works excellent.

I just looked up a 512 D. I need one!!!