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Welcome You can download the entire manual here Snowthrower 42in 2001-2005 79263 260 OM IPL sn.pdf - Snow Blowers - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

And connect the welders ground cable directly to the frame near the repair. No current passing thru bearings please.

The generosity around here....

It’s okay @Ed Kennell you’ve already done enough to help me. You don’t have to bring that wood from the show to my house. I’m sure Jim won’t mind continuing another 6 hours past the show grounds to get to my place. However if you want to jump in the truck with him I’d love to have both of you guys over to show you my collection. And yes, I’ll buy you dinner too!

Last night I pulled the oil pan to start checking the inside out. So so clean Verified oil hole facing correct direction on cam side this side of rod has a casting line so I’ll use that to keep rod and cap aligned. pulled piston. Crank has been ground and measured 1.490. So that’s good. I’ll plastigate clearance on reassembly. Crank was hard to turn even after I removed piston. I tried to check crank side clearance - NONE. Loosened bearings plate bolts and crank turns easy. So need to add gasket shims to get crank clearance per kohler spec. Block needs a good cleaning. I get a black finger tip when I run inside of block. More than just black oil. I think there is still some cast iron dust from boring block. Tomorrow I’ll pull valves.

Had seven of those totes on so might have been a little overloaded... tires squatting pretty good. Only a 7k trailer. All really nice clear oak too...

Hi Gentlemen, yesterday with the mild weather Karl Lyon and I removed and replaced the broken lift arm assembly on my beast GT14. We had to totally remove the left side plate to accomplish this as there is just not enough space to get the unit out between the bottom or top frame rails. This was quite the job and it took time to make sure we didn't mess anything up or break anything biggest issue was the removal of the transmission ball activator and of course the putting this back in...... but we prevailed! Massive shout-out to Karl Lyon and Kevin (pull start) who supplied the replacement unit. Thank you both as well as all the great response from fellow Wheelers. THANK YOU ALL!

Occasionally the onset of the sickness is quick. Sadly there is no cure and the only treatment typically requires additional horse trading. Red paint is very good for alleviating the itch and burning as well.

@WHX??I printed directions to my house, so if you don’t mind dropping that off I’d really appreciate it. Hell, I’ll even buy you dinner!🤣

Made some fire wood ...

No “regulating” is correct -- the diodes do nothing to control the voltage passing from the stator to the battery. But “rectifying” there is indeed. As the stator turns it creates positive and negative voltage “pressure” in alternating directions in its two connections (the frequency depends on the engine’s RPM). The diodes (as check valves) permit only the “positive” voltage to go to the battery, blocking out the “negative” voltage from each connection. .

Ok got me diodes all pointing in right direction, carb adjusted, sediment bowl straightened out, added an extra clutch spring and adjusted brake. Drove around barn a couple times seems to be good to go. Had every intention of a new restoration on this one but have decided to turn my attention to the 520H instead. The 520 is just begging to be straightened out and put back to work.

That’s the plan! Gonna spend the next couple weeks getting it cleaned up then gonna start turning over a new garden

This is great! Good thing he has his own heat guns! He's been having me make decals! (I have a cricut machine) He is a mechanic that works from home so nothing (NOTHING) comes into the house! He has learned over the 40 years he's been a mechanic he don't want the mess in the house lol. He is very neat, organized, and has 2 or more of every tool you could ever imagine. Sadly I feel they are the ones with the big trailers that show up and take tractors off other people's hands. (All hours of the day and night) Once my washing machine starts turning red it will go to the garage and he will just have to buy me a new one (to bad I'll have to take from his wheel horse money 🤑) We've already took our x3 to the neighbors this weekend we will be taking the rock crawler to the neighbors Bigger sheds have already been discussed. I guess it's a good thing we own lots of property! They just don't know us wives are getting everything we want now! Our auction trips will now be unlimited spending. Our garden dreams we've had for years will now become true (I mean they have enough horses now to make that come true) And to dig us a nice big root cellar for our canned goods...

March 11, 1957 Charles Van Doren finally loses on US TV game show "Twenty-One" after winning $129,000 - later revealed to be fixed.

Help others when you can. That’s what it’s all about!

Update on the 10 speed. I bit the bullet and spent $400 on HP tuners credits to be able to tune this vehicle. It took $200 for the ECU and $200 for the TCM. Unfortunately, I’ve spent the $200 for the ECU before so a buddy could tune the engine. The sad part is that I can’t use his credits, because it’s locked to the vehicle and the tuning device. His tuning device is 40 minutes away and not worth the time to go back and forth, try this and that, change, etc. It’s a process to refine the tune and may take days or even weeks. With all that said, final gearing between the 6 and 10 speeds say that once I hit 8th gear, it’s like the old 6th gear. 9 and 10 are additional overdrives and though the engine has an additional 200+ hp, it often feels like it’s lugging along at rural highway speeds. At wide open throttle, it sometimes feels like the rpm shift point settings are fighting with the speed based shift point settings and it gets stuck thinking what’s right. Yesterday, I tuned in different line pressures, torque converter lockup and tightness (adjustable stall based on computer thoughts!?!?), and torque management to refine the way the engine and transmission communicate. Today I spread out the shift points to make it wind up a bit more before shifting. She liked yesterday. She doesn’t like today as much. Dully noted.

LOL on that Eric. As simple as this advice sounds you would be surprised how stupid some people can be. While I was in high school I worked for a shop that serviced fleet trucks. While changing the oil and filter on one I noticed a motor mount bracket was hanging by one bolt and had torn the frame. We called in a mobile welder to make the repairs to the frame. We had already disconnected the battery + lead, common practice on all cabovers while servicing them. The welder proceeded with the repairs and somehow managed to contact the + battery cable with the welding rod, fortunately he didn't make contact with the battery. We now had a complete rewiring to do so if you happen to find an early 1960s Ford COE that has white 16 gauge wiring for nearly everything and a weld repair on the left side of the frame near the motor mount le me know.

I've been changing my nutritional habits over the last couple weeks to a low carb ketogenic type. Under 100 carb allndays. Under 50 on a few. Down 10 lbs this morning. 5 more and I'll be back at my lowest from last year (and many years). 247.4 Aiming for 220 (???)

Just drop it off at the Big Show. I'll get it to the right place.

75* and bright sun means seat time. I did the scratch, thatch, sweep thing.

Awesome! Now get that share shined and greased up, and get turning some dirt!

I’ve had a few foot pegs break away from the frame, never crack like that. I’m sure there are ways to neutralize the acid if you’re concerned, but I’m with ‘Fish here. Drill a 1/8” hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from spreading after the weld. Clean it up, weld it. Back to work we go.

We are not dealing with a space shuttle here! Wire brush the area, weld it, it's good to go for another 60 years +. 20-30 minutes of work. A restoration, then it would be all a part anyway so the proper way would be to just change the frame. A worker, not so much IMO. But I'm not retired with all the time in the world either so that may play a part in it too. Add a piece of metal over it to brace it if you're worried about the quality of the weld. Personally, I'd just wire brush it off and use a 7018 rod to arc weld it. I'm guessing the original weld wasn't good or complete so it stressed cracked at that weakest point, the top of the hole is the thinnest part to the top. (Built on a Friday evening right before 5 pm. LOL) The heat from the weld would weaken that section of the rail too if the weld wasn't completed. Air bubble in the weld maybe?? The foot peg 3/4 rod was welded on the inside of the frame so a pic of that side would probably show what's actually going on.

I hope I don't really need to say this but... REMOVE THE BATTERY FIRST.

Hopefully this is in the right area. I wanted to put this information out there because when I looked this info up I got no answers. So I purchased this 8” Brinly for a whopping $75. In general it was in good shape but the crank and trunion looked like they came off the titanic. They were seized together and I figured any attempt to move them would just disintegrate everything. After a little research I was no closer to figuring out if new Brinly parts would fit an early model. Figured I’d take a chance and order a new trunion and crank from Brinly. I told myself I wasn’t going to try and fix it til after I broke ground on the new garden. Well my ADHD got the better of me and I started messing with it. Surprisingly all the components broke free and didn’t fall apart. So the new handles are a slightly different shape and the threads are a bit long by about 3/4” compared to the old one. Threads are still 5/8-11 as the old ones were. The original trunnion was roughly 1.010. The new one was 1.051 so there’s two routes you can go. Make the mounting hole larger or turn the new trunnion down on either a lathe or a bench grinder. I went bench grinder since I don’t have access to a lathe or any friends with one. Worked out perfect. It’s not pretty but it’s 100% functional. So all in all, Brinly’s new parts can work with their older implements. I hope this helps someone else in the future.

Yes sir I’ll have plenty of pics. I’ll probably start a proper restoration thread but heres three of the Onan under the hood. It can sit further forward then the KT19.

I found this old fuel cap with a blowed out gasket, and some bracketeering materials and started fabbing a little tink tink too. I love watching them flop around, and they are practical to keep rain out in the rare occasion a tractor is outdoors when it rains.

I just sent Cas a PM asking how he is doing and encouraging him to keep in touch with his Wheel Horse family.

So I have not been feeling very well lately with my heart racing and difficulty breathing when that happens. This week has been particularly bad specially Wednesday and Thursday. Friday I decide to see doctor and as soon as he examines me he basically asks me if he should call the ambulance or if my wife will drive me. Sure enough this is what the poor woman needed now in her condition. So he states that I either already had a heart attack or am about to have one. Stubborn as I am I did not want to go in an ambulance and since my wife cannot drive a manual car I wound up calling a friend nearby to take us. Summarizing the events since then it was established that I did not have a heart attack yet but something is wrong either electrically or some type of blockage. They did find a clot in my leg which luckily has not traveled anywhere. So here I am all wired up doing all kinds of tests again. Seems like it never ends with health issues for both of us now a days. I’ll be here until Tuesday in the very least from what it looks. This may be the new normal unfortunately. Thank you to all that asked about my abrupt interruption while posting on something. From there things unfolded pretty rapidly.

I check mine whenever a tractor is in the shop for oil change or whatever. Some are loose others not. Often think about putting holes over the bolts like some head tins have to make it real easy.

I have seen too many "Local repair artisan" YT videos of arc welding being done to a slowly revolving driveshaft chucked up in a large engine lathe... you just know that the ground is NOT attached to the spinning part. That tends to sizzle the lubricant out of the headstock bearings.... and worse.

Other signs and symptoms include: Hair dryers mysteriously relocating to the garage for various paint and decal duties. Red tractor parts drying on living room tables, rugs, chairs and countertops when it's cold or raining outside... Strange people with large trailers dropping off little red tractors, parts, implements at all hours... typically expecting food, adult beverages and occasionally lodging... Washing machines tinted red on the inside from mysterious sources... Immediate need for large storage sheds, barns, trailers and neighboring garages...

Today, in this preview of spring/summer which was an uncommonly warm 70 degree day. I got the 308, 312 and C-141 out, wiped the dust off, and went for a short spin on the C-141. I also did some cleaning out, raking crushed rock out of the lawn, and organizing tractor parts. Now to wait for another week and a half roughly until spring is official. Tomorrow, it’s supposed to be rain and 30 degrees cooler.

Thanks to all. I have had a great day so far.

Jungle site. But I'm using a piece of bar stock and my slot hitch - instead of the 2" receiver it's designed for (3-point adapter) You can see it's still in testing stage by the vise-grips

Toooo many crash landings from doing wheelies?

Nice save ! Thanks for the info.

Hmm, first I've seen that. Yes, it could and should be welded. Pretty easy for that one. Jack it up by that 3/4 foot peg bar and it should close the crack gap. Weld it right to the bar inside and out and the crack too

Mine too. Hope all is well!

Happy birthday Bob!

Now for the important question. Which one / ones have you claimed for your self ??? Gotta make sure yours is the first one on the trailer when show time comes. No sense letting them cruise around having fun at shows while your on foot.

That is the primary reason for head gasket failure after a repair. Each time the engine gets up to temp & then bsck to cold, the head gasket compresses a bit more. The Kohler manual tells you to repeat "as necessary" with no definative number...

Or so it seems! Perhaps its all a simulation?

OK folks, one more in the "Gee, I wish I had looked at that too before I spent time on this" catagory. How ugly is the "F" plate where the Unidrive bolts on? Is it a series of fatigue cracks too???

Nice! Now that it’s starting to warm up around here I can get back into wrenching and tinkering hopefully

Smokem if ya got em ... Read trough them with a multi meter. Usually they go in only one way because of the notch. Notch end or cathode up feeding the fuse and the battery.

A photo memory on my phone came up from the 2021 Portage show. I was eyeing a 16 horse Speedex long before I realized it!

The shift looks like it bolts in, but can't remember if you can pull it out with out taking side plate off. Might be able to slide down, maybe just loosen some bolts up front Here's so pic's