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Early birthday present for myself. Not perfect, but for the price I couldn’t resist.

Got it apart, what you think? A little JP Weld might work. Got a cat scan done, confirmed, cam fubar.

Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly. Front tach lock assembly ready to install. Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed. Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring. Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed. Front tach lock release grip installed. Front tach latch assembly ready to install. Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased. Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed. Latch shown in open position. Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install. I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets. I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required. Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin. Hood stop rod fully installed. Hood pivot assembly ready to install. There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2" I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on shaft. Hood pivot cotter pins installed. Front tach and hood pivot assembled. This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

January 14, 1952 "Today Show" premieres with Dave Garroway & Jack Lescoulie on NBC-TV.

Today I took a portable train layout for an assisted living facility for show and tell. I had some pictures projected upon a screen of how I made some of the items and a video of my layout at home. Talked about how I got into trains (wife's uncle passed and left them to us). Answered questions how I made mountains, buildings and other items. I anticipated spending 30 minutes or so and ended up over an hour. The residents (some 20 of them) seemed to enjoy and appreciate The activities director asked who and where they rode trains. Interesting stories. Lots of laughter and memories for these folks. One funny part. I normally run my trains pretty slow--just looks more natural. Someone asked "will it go faster?" Another "Yeah, lets see it go fast." So I opened up the throttle and nearly all of them cheered! Not too bad for a 79 year old engine.

I was settin' in the shed havin' my 1st coffee & a cigarette. A reply in my original post about the exhaust valve kept eatin' at me. "Looks like a food fight goin' on in there". I got to thinkin', carbon is black, this crap is brown. I got a pick and poked around; it crumpled. I have never seen carbon crumble. I remembered the homemade muffler had some big holes in it so I removed it. Fired up the air compressor, put on a 12" blow nozzle, stood back & blew around the exhaust. Crap went everywhere, then a mud dubber nest came out.

$300 is what I gave for this C-141 Auto - and it came with a mower deck. Have patience and seek out a better deal.

Very nice. I use a combo platter of hammuh 🔨 ⚒️ screwdrivah 🪛 and call BBT.

I like trains.

Yah she's a humdinger, she has to be right in the middle everything. Found the camshaft, cleaned it up, should work. Will clean up the block, new gaskets, couple seals, I already rebuilt the fuel pump, and carburetor. Had to make bushing NLA, come out great, new shaft and made some foam gaskets out of a pre air filter .

My grandma used to say "all the Lord's creatures serve a purpose", but I have yet to uncover what some of them are...

No doubt. What a fantastic documentation and resource.

Nice catch CD

The "food fight" comment was mine. I'd say that if not cleaned, the exhaust would have been a mite restricted. Best to find that stuff now. And luckily none of the winged critters were home.

I have mine still in the box. Pd $20 at an auction!

Yeah I saw that. I picked this one up on eBay for $41.

Love the CAT scan

And can be used to set the seat back a couple extra inches.

All used same hydro. This manual cover it pretty well. You should also look at the D series manuals as the manifold system show up better there than in this manual. Also look the the pinned post at the top of this forum for o ring and seal numbers for Sunstrand hydros

Looks like a 78-79 C series going by the hood stand. But who knows, it’s been built with all sorts of parts. Worth $300? Nope

Finally got a chance to take the rear end apart had one bearing from the outside looked iffy talk to a few of you guys said split the transmission took it apart needle bearings fell out found all but five I believe went through the pump before I got the pumps rebuilt cleaned it all out put a new gasket on redid the transmission filter and back together. Thanks for all the guys for the help sure appreciate your input over the years.

My new C-145 Auto came with a real nice seat. It’s new or like new, made of rubber and not vinyl so it’s still flexible in the cold. Would love to find another, but can’t figure out who made it. The only clue is the word PERSONS in the rubber (see picture). It even has the correct bolt pattern for our tractors!!! Anyone know who made it? Or does anyone have the same seat that might have a brand name sticker under it.

Other day I was helpin @Achto with a K91 and there were dauber nests in the head & engine fins. I tried digging them out of the head with the jack knife and they were like concrete. Them devils can be worse than mice. I've got outlets in the overhead of the lean to on the warehouse for battery tenders and every one the ground hole was filled with a nest.

Sold one just like that at the show last year; it came out of the recycling yard at work. It came off of a Wal-Mart jazzy scooter, had the correct 7 x 7.5 bolt pattern.

Me too.

Update: $250 for seal kits and fluid (might still need a little more fluid) and a week (8 days from order to receipt of parts) of twiddling my thumbs, but I think it's fixed: This is actually the second trip up, I put it up last night too, so far no leaks found.

They provided targets for my Red Ryder in the pole barn i had when we lived in Ky. Got pretty good at knocking them off of the rafters that way.

@jsoluna That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.

Hmmm. is the cam the source of the problem or is it the victim here?? Did you break the connecting rod?? I ask because I bought two C81's years ago. One ran but was tired; the other broke the connecting rod, snapped the cam in two and blew out the back cam mount. And ventilated the block bigtime. I did save the head, flywheel, tins, oil pan , points & coil though...

1.5” square tube can also give the seat a bit of extra height for us folks with longer lower limbs.

Not that I am admitting The Squonky is right but ... yeah some so us are as pure of tractor as we are of mind ... It's a procedure where you have a piece of plate glass with a sheet of say 400 grit or better wet /dry emery paper taped to it. It provides a surface that you can sand the halves flat . Note KP's pic where the half is slightly warped. Glassing removes them. I prefer to do it wet as it floats away particles. Same procedure for glassing a head & plenty of you tubes on doing it. If you overtighten the the screws it will squeeze the diaphragm too much at the corners leaving a gap where those warped areas are. Extreme overtightening can even warp the halves further. On doing a head ... same principle headgasket.pdf

I absolutely love these tractors. I will enjoy following along on this one! I just realized, I’m in trouble. Now I want one. 😇

Sure can. I've used plate steel and square bar stock in the past. I'd also recommend getting some proper sized good quality fender washers for the bottom of the pan/fender to help spread the load.

Looks to have a Honda or Honda clone on it. I don't think it's worth it because it's missing lots of OE parts.

Looks to be a mutant. Incorrect engine, questionable front wheel modifications. The biggie - no belt guard. Missing one or both foot rests. Only worth it if ALL the OE parts come with it - in useable condition. My

My wife recorded me plowing snow on Dec 11 but I just got the video from her now to post it. The 520HC worked well as always.

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

@WHX?? the blue is magic marker, poor man's Persian blue. Put it on sandpaper on glass, check the high spots

Looks like there were Huffy bicycle seats made by Persons. Don't see any specific tractor seats.

Another point: that poor machine has not only been butchered, but what was left has likely been horribly mistreated. While these old iron machines are rugged, they do wear out even when maintained. Beating them up and running the transmission at many times faster than intended makes that tractor a scrap machine in my mind. Better options do exist. Be patient and you'll find one.

@CD Long Jr hard to imagine what this guy was doing , or basically not caring about how any part of this worked , never picked up one like that , as stated , a tank clean out as well as a separate heavily treated gallon of fuel , lets you enhance running and adjustments . without question , that rislone zinc will help cut / remove that engine varnish . that engine heat cleaning ring flush , has an amazing effect on neglect . have it in all my engines , zero smoke , also 2 fuel filters , 1 close to tank another close to carb , drop carb bowl , probably loaded with crud. would also replace all existing fuel lines , fuel hose breakdown is very common, sta bil fuel additive in all my stuff , no issues at all , stay with it , pete

I ordered just the one above, I'm not sure if that fuel pump would fit Right now I have plastic one, made in Taiwan I suppose. I think that one is leaking little bit (I noticed some fuel below pump). I'm going to check gasket on old one, maybe there is problem? I'm just gathering some parts in advance (belts, carburator fix kit etc). I ordered parts online,my friend in US will send me these in one big parcel to Poland. I read some posts about conversion to electric fuel pump, that direction would be straightforward (but I will do it if absolutely necessary).

Right on Rider ... when I first joined here I had no idea what a round hood or Suburban even was... When I learned I gotta have one or ten ...

Here is a picture of one I picked up at the big show last year, but it was an older one. I also think they suit the gen/start tractors very well. The holes did not match the factory holes in seat/fender pan on mine either. I believe this style of seat is what used to be called the "Michigan" seat. .

Lots of good info on this post. Good knowledge to know.

Here is a good source for pulleys. You will need to know the outside diameter, shaft size & belt width. Then find one that matches. https://surpluscenter.com/search.php?search_query=pulleys

.No point touching it until the “Why?” and “If removed, then what?” questions had sensible answers, right? Like the Aswan--either the planning never really fully grasped the silting situation or addressing it wasn’t sufficiently remunerative to the decision makers economically or politically.

They had done both of those, but it was as much as 30’ deep over 1,900 flat acres and the original bottom seal needed work. Not feasible to test every square yard. The upgraded bottom used an additional layer of clay trucked in and carefully compacted.

What, no hydrogeology study? Not even a perc test? Yikes. I guess that’s what you get for surmising in lieu of testing.

Good find Ed. They will last a few more generations if used. No plastic , disposable mentalities back then. Changing the cords is the only must do with them. Use a three prong and ground the case.