Leaderboard

For International Tongue Twister Day, celebrated every second Sunday in November, don’t get your tongue tied this November 9. We’re not talking about rolling or curling your taste-tester. In fact, we’re looking at Peter Piper, the woodchuck, and all their friends. Tongue twisters are a silly way to pass the time or practice pronunciation. Shoot, you can even use them to practice a foreign language! It’s time to celebrate all the twisty things you can say with your tongue. Tongue twisters have technically been around since as early as the 19th century when John Harris published “Peter Piper’s Practical Principles of Plain and Perfect Pronunciation,” which included a twisty tongue tango for every letter of the alphabet. And while the book was meant to help children learn the fundamentals of speech mechanics, its titular twister garnered quite the attention and inspired a lot of lore about its namesake. Speculation aside, it turns out Peter Piper was based on French horticulturalist Pierre Poivre, whose last name actually means ‘pepper’ in French. Pierre was said to be exploring the viability of growing American spices in the French Mediterranean. Whether you’re trying to master Peter Piper, the woodchuck, or even “The Guinness Book of World Records’” most difficult recorded tongue twister, “The sixth sick sheik’s sixth sheep’s sick,” you’re sure to get your tongue endlessly tied.

Bought this tractor 38 years ago for mowing and snow removal mainly. At that time it came with a belly mount 3 blade mower and front plow blade. Over the years added a single moldboard and harrow that was used for a 25' x 75' garden deep with beautiful farm loam. After moving North it sat for sometime before I started to do a clean up and repaint. In October I was able to have help in splitting the A apart and replace clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and original carb stripped rebuilt and clear coated. While waiting for parts to come in I cleaned out the bellhousing and tunnel full of mouse mess and sanded up anything that needed it. Up and running now and did it ever feel good to be sitting up high listening to that 4 cylinder purr at idle, almost a nice lope to it. Change oil & filter, greased and adjust the width of the front end. If it wasn't so late in the year I would use it this Winter for a little snow plowing. Working on the front grille trying to straighten the horizontal bars now and some painting to do. I was able to locate a nice set of tools to do it. Gave it a cleaning yesterday and moved some leaves to the pile. I will update as I progress along. Pictures are through the course of years since purchase with the rims painted all red and left rear tire on backwards. It's getting there.

Added another round hood to my herd. I've always liked the looks of the round hoods, but was not a big fan of the square aluminum gas tanks. For this reason I had been looking for a 704 to add to my herd. @WHX?? alerted me to one that for sale on Face Book close by and was willing to do the FB work to get me hooked up. Thanks Jim !! Pics of the newest addition. PTO does not look correct to me. The gas tank that is in it is not right, but I have the correct one. Anyone see any thing else out of place please let me know. I also got this deck with it. It looks in pretty good shape but is not on the implement list for the 704. Anyone know off hand what it should be mated to? One more of my bucket lister's obtained. Only ? more to go.

Or full blown?? Little story on the find ... saw it on FB MP and remembered something ... for once don't expect it again... Dan was snooping around at the BS for a 704 and narrowly missed out on one so I knew he had a hankerin for one. Texted him on this one and we kinda knew the guy. Cindy even says him and his dad were at our plow day one year and kinda met him at other shows and plow events. Younger kid who is a JD fan ... go figure ... and took forever to respond to my inquries. Turned out he works a lot so was excused. Did I mention I hate FB finds but sometimes one does stumble on local horse finds. Well we finally connect and get something setup up for a look see and pick up. I was gonna get it on my way home from deer camp since I had a empty trailer but just didn't work out. So I says to Dan hook up and take your trailer to work go get it Friday after work. Off he goes and I sit wondering on what mission from hell did I send him on! Gotta remember Achto doesn't FB ... smart man ... so never had any kind of contact with the seller. A blind date if you will and some of you might remember how those go... @Shynon sends me a alert PM on it when Dan's on his way to get it. Thanks Tom! Dan gets there and seller says picking it up for Jim? Nope He's tractor heavy...

first year on my c145 had it on my 75' c120 last 2 years hydro work much better than gear drive tractor least i have hydro lift

Oh my God .... I thought my wheel horse wrangling days were over ...... Apparently not...... This D-200 trotted in to the stable from auction this afternoon. #28. I have not run the numbers yet to see what year it is. The ag tires appear to be brand new. Unlike my other one? This one came with ammo boxes! I guess for scrapping with unruly neighbors?? 😁

Seen the steam train on the way to putting my truck in winter storage. I timed it well, only waiting a few minutes for it to arrive at each of the two locations I stopped at. IMG_4492.mov

Mike, Lil Red is doing fine in the barn, matter of fact it's suppose to go down to 30 degrees tonight, I'll just throw her blanket over her.

Yes, galling can be rather 'galling.' I've rarely had a galling issue with fasteners as small as 10-32 screws, but the chance of galling certainly increases rapidly as screw diameters and torque values increase. Thread pitch can also be a factor. I have four or five different types of anti-seize lubricants, a couple of which I use for stainless, such as Blue Moly, which works well, but it's very blue and very messy to use (wear rubber gloves). I have a couple of general-purpose anti-seize compounds that I often use on fasteners that will be exposed to weather or other harsh conditions, partly because it helps to seal the threads. When installing spark plugs, I use an electrically conductive copper-containing anti-seize compound, which also has good heat transfer characteristics (be careful not to get it on the insulator of the plug). One 'gotcha' with anti-seize compounds is that they have a torque factor that should be applied when tightening a fastener because the lubricity of the compound will typically reduce the amount of torque required to obtain the correct stretch or clamping force for a bolt, whether it be a reusable bolt or a one-time-use torque-to-yield bolt. The torque factor for a specific anti-seize compound is generally found in the technical data sheet for that product. Some typical values might range anywhere from a 10- to 30-percent reduction in required torque...give or take. The yellow, green, and blue chromate passivation treatments (conversion coatings) on zinc plating provide a good increase in corrosion protection over plain zinc plating. Most grade 8 fasteners have yellow-chromate treatment. Zinc-flake-coated steel is even better for corrosion protection than the chromate treatments, although I've found that the thickness of the flake coating sometimes makes the bolt-to-nut fit a bit on the snug side. I'm set up to do my own electroplating, which can be handy for restoring special fasteners that are not easily replaced, such as the script-head bolts for my Dodge M37 project. It's a bit time-consuming, and some of the chemicals can run up a bill, so it really doesn't save me any money, but it's nice to be able to control the process, especially making sure that all steel parts are baked immediately after plating to help prevent hydrogen embrittlement, which is even more important for harder, alloy, high-strength, etc., steels. Here's a photo of part of my plating bench setup (more has been added since this photo was taken): As an example, here are some of the shoulder bolts used for mounting the headlights on my Dodge M37 after glass bead blasting and before plating: And after plating and a chromate passivation treatment: I may be getting carried away here. This could easily expand into a whole new discussion of what type or grade fastener is best for certain jobs, but that should probably be left to its own thread.

I recenty gave The Pullstart a set of weights because they are too heavy for my 66 yo back. I want em back Kev ...

My other hobby (ok, obsession) is old flashlights. I’m kinda hot and cold with it though. I can easily go a year without buying one or even looking for one. Today the wife and I were in an antigue store and I wasn’t even looking for flashlights, but stumbled across this one so I picked it up to give it a once over and see what the price was. Bulb is missing and it’s not in great shade. Plus I like em older (this one is about a 1948 light). It was heavy, which usually means old dead batteries that have leaked out and corroded the inside. Yes it had old dead D cells inside, but they hadn’t leaked out. Check out the use-by date on them! Which means they were produced before that date. Bought this flashlight just for the batteries…. $7.00

Ingenious jack/support system!

It’s the right color! And my favorite four letter F word!

my bucket list is the size of a swimming pool! (heated pool of course) Master plan partial restore?

702

Will eventually get a full resto. I'm usually an all in kind of guy.

Back home after spending 4 days in the BILs cabin. Notice the windmills on the far mountain above the roof. No electric or water in the cabin.

Thank you Ed. Looks like effort but in reality it’s not. When doing what one loves it comes easy . I just get lost in it oblivious to anything else.

I added an additional 20 lb barbell weight plate to my existing Bolens 75 pounders, as there was enough room for it in the C81 wheel... the problem is they now weigh 95 pounds each and are a bear to install. Solution - adapt the floor jack to lift & center the weights..... works well.

It’s funny how so many have different tastes. I prefer those tanks on the round hoods

Picked up the Bervac today! Thanks to @Ed Kennell Got it installed on the Workorse already. Its so heavy & that means its staying on permanently! Predicting out 1st "lake effect " snow starting overnight Sunday with potential for 5-10" of heavy, wet snow. Might need it???? 20251108_164936.mp4

Worked on daughters 522xi, oil change service and installed the snow plow. The deck has about 150 hours on sealed bearings. Still nice and smooth! Surprising how clean the deck is after cutting up the leaves. One other thing I keep an eye on is the right rear hub. It has one of those A to Z tapers hubs. The axle was about ten thousands under and I first had issues keeping it tight. That 1.125 taper is good to 5 under. With nothing to loose. I drove the taper in as deep as it would go, tightening and tapping on the taper while the out hub was blocked. I gauge it by the axle stick out. Has ran 95 hours on loaded tire and chains. Hanging tough!

T r _ u m p h... how @Pullstartspells "shop cleaning "... Kevin - take off the "H" and call it "Trump"!

Going back together pics.

When I had the loaded rear wheels I used a Motorcycle jack to cradle the tire.

I use these, they are just a bit shorter but work fine.

Yesterday I scored some free 6-12 turfs with chains from a friend.

Back working on EJ the 8n this week. New electronic distributor, new fuel line and gas shut off valve were installed. Even applied a grease gun to take zreks that I could find. That Pertronix electronic ignition system works well - it makes a world of difference. With the old points system in a worn distributor, there was an intermittent miss under load. That has gone away with the new distributor and electronics. The clean up I did on the brakes has worked as well. I actually have brakes that will hold the tractor on a hill and work as turning brakes. Time will tell if I stopped the oil leak in the axle. Got a slow leak in the front left tire and a drip at the elbow flare fitting at the carb that won't respond to tightening. Probably have to put another elbow fitting on. The new battery makes a difference as well. The volt meter is now reading 14 volts, where it was only reading 13 volts on the old battery.

As a Manufacturing Engineer, I very seldom got those panic phone calls. On the other hand, the Process Engineers and the Maintainence guys all had that imaginary "Property of Stoneridge" tattoo on their backsides....

Wrong PTO and deck, Wrong rear tires and wheels, Should be 6-12's Loved my 704 until @clueless pried it away. I'll never forget that day. It felt like I sold one of my beloved pets!

Everyone has to see it and hear the sound !

I would say yes it does. My 1943 D cells don’t have any voltage info.

I’m not the Fig Plucker nor the Fig Plucker’s son But I shall pluck figs till the Fig Plucker comes

The price of admission sounds good but the final cost could be another story. Are you going to drop in a big diesel in it and a fifth wheel to become your new towing machine?

It could also be as simple as a bad plug. Cheap and easy to test--you could just swap them but I’d probably buy a new one.

Yes it is helping the USPS can't handle the shipping they get. If they had it all it would take 6 months to get anything shipped with them.

@JCM incredible era basic engineering , talk about bombproof ! makes me think about the FORDSON tractors that plowed across russia , to show them what could be done ! glad you still have it ,https://overlandtravel.org/russia/fordzon-putilovets-tractor-russia/ also like the basic patina look . pete

The footing was excavated out a few feet past the perimeter of the actual building, and the floor will be poured out to there, and up to the base boards. I"m not going to have any drainage inside the shop due to local water-management regulations, I'll just have to squeegee everything out the door as needed. For my purposes the floor needs to be level. While it is not impossible to install a lift on a sloped floor level is much preferred, and having a slope adds a degree of complexity I don't want to deal with.

Sharpened some mower deck blades before putting it away for winter! First time using this style blade fixture and it worked great. It's supposed to be bench mounted, but I just C clamped it to a saw horse and it worked great! Here's the link if anyone is interested: https://a.co/d/9IHreoA IMG_8403.mp4

Nice find! Always looking for the 60’s machines for sale near me but they’ve been very sparse lately.

Best waterproof adhesive I have ever seen.............Automotive Windshield Urethane.

Epoxies are a good option for water resistant adhesives too. If you stick to those that are bis-phenol A (BPA) types you’ll avoid the formaldehyde emissions issues. Might sacrifice some flammability resistance though…and there’s the whole hormone-imitation thing as well but that’s another kettle of fish. We used to make some specialty composite parts that were used in deep ocean environments. Epoxy (almost) across the board. Of course, no wood there. I didn’t realize resorcinol adhesives were still common. They’re from the phenolic polymer family which used to be cutting-edge for making plastics (circuit boards, Bakelite, etc) but they aren’t as favored or common these days. There’s a lot more epoxies, acrylics, and other specialty adhesives available now. As an aside, Cas mentioned mixing them properly. He’s absolutely right. There’s a temptation to fudge the mix ratio of two-part adhesives (and other materials) in an attempt to adjust cure time, get a harder cure, make it stronger, or whatever. The problem is this ALWAYS compromises the chemistry of the mix and nearly always results in an inferior product. The manufacturer will usually have you blend the components in a perfect ratio where nearly every molecule of both components are consumed or reacted together with no excess of either one. This is the stoichiometric ratio. wandering in either direction will result in something being left over and the other being in short supply. This results in unreacted stuff - basically a contaminant - inside the final plastic. This will translate into different physical properties than you paid for. Almost always, this means weaker. In an epoxy or phenolic for instance, adding additional hardener will leave surplus gooey hardener dissolved in the final product. Not good. Also, it can force the stuff that does react (cross link) to form a different network of bonds than you wanted. Those are typically also the bonds you’re asking to reach out and latch onto available sites on the substrates. Also not good. You can also change the rate that things happen and further disrupt that network. There are exceptions. Sometimes in industry we go off ratio as our process’s kinetics might not allow mixing to stoichiometric. Or we have a brittle system and we know that flooding with a calculated amount of extra hardener can soften things up and somewhat toughen the result. But there’s a lot of mix-test-mix-test iteration going on to get a desired and repeatable result. My point is, the mix ratio the manufacturer gives isn’t arbitrary. Don’t be suspicious of a nice ratio like 4:1 or 2:1 instead of 3.1415:1. Don’t assume they rounded it off to make it easier. Rather, I can almost guarantee they’ve added controlled diluents or fillers to make the measuring work out easier. Anyway, this got long. I just wanted to mention epoxies and look what happened. Steve

Supposed to be for a 1055 or 1075. Way to big for a 7 HP. Note that serial number is in the list already. .

Pics as promised: New storage loft: Got the electrical ready for the floor pour

I rebuilt the carb on Thumper today. I got it out of the shed about a week ago and it ran like crap. The bowl and bottom of float had a greenish yellowish slime on it. I must have put it away with the junk ethanol fuel and I only run non ethanol in my small machines. Must have put some regular fuel in it in a hurry last winter. Its runnin like a swiss watch again.

OMG I am using that one. Of course I mean to myself, as I have a wife and 3 daughters... If I suddenly stop posting here you'll know I slipped up and accidentally said it out loud. I use your same steps, with one addition here: trash previous attempt, recover what you can and return to previous step. Repeat as necessary.