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World Farm Animals Day, which falls on October 2 every year. This day comes around once a year to remind us just how important animals are to society and why we need to give animals the voice they so desperately need. While you too may be an animal lover, have you ever wondered what fellow animal lovers have done for other creatures? If you read a little about the origin of this event, you may be surprised how far people have come to give your pet their proper rights and what you too can do on this special day. This date was significant for animal protection organizations because it was first known as the day of Francis Assisi, the patron saint of ecology, which includes the study of animals. According to legends, the saint was able to tame animals relatively easily and even talk to them. No matter which way you decide to spend World Animal Day, just keep in mind how much animals give to us in unconditional love and support.

The NE winds calmed a bit so we took a boat ride. Dropped a couple crab pots and sand shark was the fish of the day. Good day with my boys.

Well the Chinese carb. came in. It came with the proper choke shaft so I installed that and loctited the screws in. Installed the carb and made up the choke linkage rod from a piece of wire copying the bends from my 312. Set high and low needles to 2-1/2 turns out as per manual. I need to manually apply power to the solenoid as the wiring on this machine is still messed up. Turned on key, pushed button on my starter switch and after a few rotations the tractor started right up and ran smooth. Took it for a drive and everything seems to work well with no unusual noises. Turned off key and engine shut down. I bought this tractor as a parts machine but now I don't know. Remote starter (for now).

25 mph NE wind this morning. Five minutes later.

We returned from our road trip to Niagara Falls this afternoon. I asked a couple of months ago for suggestions from you all that live in the area and the replies were helpful. We were gone eleven days. During that time we traveled from Southwest Missouri to Des Moines to meet with friends who accompanied us. We drove up through Canada to the falls. Stayed in a house not too far from Youngstown. Visited the falls from both Canada and the States. Got wet on a boat ride up near the bottom of the falls. Watched a video produced by drones flying around the area. Video was only 6 minutes long but very interesting. Rode boat through couple of locks on Erie Canal and drove through a tunnel under the canal. Spent time at Fort Niagara, several light houses and military ships in Buffalo. I toured 1905 a power house that produced electricity. The walk down the 2,200 foot tunnel was impressive. On way home, rode a steam engine train. The ride was ok but getting to watch the engine run was the highlight for me. We also stopped at the RV museum in Indiana. Very interesting. The weather was perfect. The grass was green--quite the change from 1 1/2 months with only 1/4" of rain that we received. The folks we met and visited with were super friendly and helpful. They suggested local restaurants that had great food--a couple we visited more than once. I ate my first roast beef on a weck--quite tasty--never heard of such a thing before. Lots of history. Not likely to get back that way again but surely enjoyed our short time there. Below is a wheel horse at the RV museum. They also featured other things produced in Indiana. I liked how they had it "hitched" to the hitching post.

You could tell by the and marks on it!

A three terminal voltage regulator like the ones used on GM cars and trucks from 1955 to about 1972 can be used. They do not have the "L" terminal but will do the job and will probably be more affordable.

Can't believe I never entered this. Waldo bought this tractor from me when it was still on the trailer! I had to store it for a year, I had to get that seat off so he wouldn't hurt himself!

It is, but it will work. The only terminal that is missing is the L terminal, which doesn't really matter because you can run that wire directly off the BAT terminal.

Degreased and cleaned engine. It will be a lot easier to finish the disassembly now.

Just signed up 👍

Picked this lawn ranger up a few months ago and right away my youngest claimed it as his! Being all original we stared cleaning and buffing it up. We just have a few things to button up but for the most part it’s done. We did a makeshift muffler to keep the noise down being right in town lol. He was excited to take it for a few laps around town. FB3CA92C-1526-49E2-89A2-3FF456044131.mov D0676C82-8D93-4955-9852-853793D1A035.mp4

Still wasn’t able to snap any pictures but changed the transmission oil and filter. Hydraulics work, tractor moves forward and reverse. Engine starts up easy, and runs smooth. Don’t see a fuel leak yet. Throttle lever doesn’t want to stay up, probably have to pinch the rivet with vice grips like I did on my 314-8 that kept sliding down from full throttle. Looks like the tachometer and gas gauge don’t work. Voltmeter and vacuum gauge do work. I’ll have to check through the wiring for the gas gauge and tachometer. Not super worried about those, I’ll fix them if it’s not a bear, but it’s not essential for me.

Keep it & make a clock out of it.

I use the milling machine to fix a front axle, with an upgrade or two. First setup is to drill / ream the pivot thru hole and install sleeve bearings from each side. I also face the the outer ends of the bore to be smooth and square to the bore. Play is taken up with shims at assembly. Second setup - I use the pivot hole to help hold the axle square for machining. As the underside of the axle wears, there is excess vertical movement. I remove material on the bottom to allow using either a flange bearing or the thrust washer / bearing stack and only leave .010 to .015 vertical movement. Next, the spindles them selves may have spots that are excessively worn - those get TIG welded up and filed for a proper fit. There should be just a bit of preload on the wheel ball bearings to immobilize the inner races so they do not spin on the shaft. Shim accordingly. Reinstall axle and install a new set of adjustable Heim rod end tierods. This allows you the center the steering wheel and get proper 1/8" toe-in alignment. Finished product is better than new....

These are pricey, but made in USA, and I've never had an issue with one that I've bought. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-VR219-Regulator/dp/B000O3HYLG

Did the bottom of the hitch pin hit a rock (or something that didn’t want to move) and cause it to bend? It is a long pin and will hang low to snag on stuff. I see that much more likely than just a loaded trailer.

Piece by piece, I'm gradually getting the paint sorted on my GT18. Here are the steps in fixing up one of the foot rests: A fair amount of rust had developed under the rubber mat: I slathered on a thick coat of CitriStrip, wrapped it in a polyethylene sheet, and let it sit for a few hours. About 98% of the paint came right off without any scrubbing or scraping: Here's how it looked after washing off the CitriStrip and removing a few bits of remaining paint: Next, I let the foot rest sit in a phosphoric acid bath for a while, which took care of most of the rust, and then hit any stubborn remaining pockets with my spot blaster. (Note: I don't use phosphoric acid on high-strength or hardened steel, since I want to avoid hydrogen embrittlement.) I applied the initial coat of self-etching primer, which contains zinc phosphate: Then I filled the pits with 3M High-Bond filler and sanded it flat: Here it is after more primer coats: And after a few coats of paint: Now on to the next one.

Found yet another use for the Horse. First year I didn't have to drag a deer over 100 yards uphill with a rope!

If all of the gauges burned out you would be left with an ordinary Wheel Horse.

Welcome to the forum. We’re glad you found us. The ’95 520-H was at or near the end of production for that model. 20hp with plenty of torque (though it can be thirsty). The Eaton hydro and Unidrive transaxle are rock solid. The “swept” front axle angles forward and wider than pre-92 (?) models. Has 1” spindles and heavier wheel bearings. It’s designed to allow room for a 60” mower deck and for better stability with an FEL. Gear reduction steering (twice as many turns lock-to-lock for easier steering with loads) The hydrostatic forward/revers motion control is column-mounted. To me, though, USD 5,000, even for a well-maintained, 800 hour unit with Kwik-way in excellent condition is a bit ambitious. You didn’t mention a mower deck or other implements. In my New York Metro area the ask would be more like $4,000. Adding an excellent condition 60” deck would be another 500-700. Things I would check: - records, especially of oil & filter changes on the engine and transmission - any sign of “surging” in the engine (i.e. revving up and down on its own) - make sure that once warmed up it runs without any choke at all - a foam rubber gasket installed around the engine oil filter (absolutely critical for proper flow of cooling air) - oil levels and condition in the engine and the transaxle - echoing @Achto suggestion--with the bucket low against something immovable, and the front wheels just barely off the ground, can the tractor spin the rear wheels?

Ugly Back Pad!

Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days.

That’s a 1964 model 34R…the only year with that combination of hood and rear fenders. Model 34R is the Tecumseh 6hp manual pull start model . The electric start model 34E would have had the electric start Tecumseh 6hp engine….pretty much the only difference between the 1964 model lawn rangers…

O4 and 01 should interchange, 04s is long discontinued

October 2, 2025 Guys: Okay, I have found a serious problem with the Ignition module. The high voltage wire which goes directly to the spark plug was gnawed off. Probably by a mouse since I found a large nest under the engine shroud. I ordered a replacement module from a local parts dealer on Tuesday. It was supposed to arrive the next day. After not hearing from the dealer I called and found the part was misplaced. So now I need to wait for several more business days for a reorder from Granger. Anyone have suggestions for an alternative or faster shipment along with an approximate price for an OEM replacement? The KOHLER engine is a CH15S, Spec 44533, Serial # 3506918161. I was initially quoted a price of approximately $35. I am not sure of the price from Granger will be. Thanks for the HELP with the troubleshooting. All the safety switches tested out as working. Your help was invaluable to me. Of course, the last thing I looked at, was the coil. John A

First I removed all the tins and the flywheel and clean them separately. Then all openings get covered so I don't get decreaser or water into the engine. After that I carry the engine outside and put it up on saw horses. Then it gets heavily sprayed with engine degreasing spray and after that soaks in I give heavily greasy areas a scraping and brushing to loosen up all the Grease. You may need to do this several times until you are happy that the Grease is now soft and not stuck to the engine any more. Then get out a water hose and blast away the degreaser and hopefully loose Grease and dirt. I then give the engine a good spray of soap (I used spray nine on this one) and let that soak in for a couple of minutes then give it a good rinsing. After it dries, it should look fairly clean.

Heartily agree. I was unable to tweak an “aftermarket”, non-adjustable unit to hit the correct voltages on my K181. It is now in my “use as a last resort” bin--replaced with a period-correct unit I found at the big show.

Vertical tecky ... slots are for a plastic gas tank to slide & mount on. Off a push mower I would guess.

It’s my garage hahaha @953 nut

Yesterday was Michigan’s bow season opener. I sat morning and night, and landed myself a doe. It was exciting and awesome! She was my first bow kill ever!

Sometimes measure once, cut twice.

Agreed. And if you were able to find a good used period-correct one, it is easily adjustable, unlike the newer knockoff reproductions.

So in other words. it looks like it doesn't really matter. It works flush inside, flush outside and recessed.

The 5060 I currently have on the bench has them slightly recessed from the outside of the case and I didn't change those. I've always set them flush with the outside of the case and never had any issues and really never gave it a thought. So.....the manual? A quick scan and I found one blub on it but I'm sure there is more. Page 39 #16: "When replacing bearings they should be pressed in so that they are flush with the inside of the case" Based on what the cap bearings are carrying I really don't think it matters. Like Eric said, a properly sized socket works as well as anything.

I've seen those but I don't recall where. Generator maybe? Or another stand alone engine like a water pump? @Achto or @wallfish any thoughts?

TWO MORE GOALS ACHIEVED Since May I've been down to 245, 248 lb at least four times. I keep popping back up to 254, 259. 1. Earlier this week I decided that I really needed to get down below 244 and stick to that. I'm at 244.4 I'd also decided to make more attempts at lengthening my fasts. As you can see in the videos above, there are some great benefits to getting into the third day. As of this post at 4:30, 4:45 AM Thursday, I'm now around 60 hours in - not counting coffee. The creamer does have a minimal effect on the fast but research shows you go back to the autophagy and high speed fat burn within an hour or two. >> I ain't gonna give up my coffee. <<

Awe c’mon…let us attend the show first .. pics after

I don't have pics handy but I'm sure I've seen capped bearings just a scosche past flush. Could be 1/16". Could be 1/32". I've definitely installed them flush. I've used sockets to drive them. Also used actual correct sized drivers. Both worked equally well given carefully chosen tools. Seconded. My impression of the cap portion is to retain the oil, not set the bearing depth. IF that's correct then a little loose-osity to the outer side shouldn't be an issue.

Ditto here on shop pics. Instead of cleaning up my shop for photo ops, I usually just take close-ups or crop out most of the junk in my shop that I haven't had the time (or energy) to 'organize.'

Flywheel painted and masking removed. Flywheel hardware bead blasted and painted as required.

This pic kind of makes you feel like your sky diving into a wheel horse plant. (or falling off a ladder) Shop looks good Don, mine always looks way better in pics then in person......I think

If the 520-H has a weak spot (you know, after 35 years ), it would be the electrical system. They had more guages and wiring than any other model. If the engine and transmission are good, you've got a solid and powerful machine!

er Will either of these work? $10 each+ shipping

It is more for assisting the starting of the lift when extended, most helpful using a manual lift lever.

The shaft isn't dependent on the cap bearings to hold their position so that little bit doesn't matter. Being flush on the inside will give a little more bearing contact on the shaft but again, not enough to matter. Quite simply that statement is 100% correct. The bearings aren't quite as tall as the case thickness at the bearing point. If the bearing is installed anywhere within that case thickness it's fine.

Livin' the dream Ed!

Installing a component flush is fairly straightforward. Installing to a depth beyond flush or shy of flush would best be done with a stepped driver...

Back side of flywheel painted. Magnets are masked and center hole plugged as I don't want paint there.

Rolled into crab camp at 3PM and moved in for the week. And the relaxing begins.