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National Silent Movie Day takes place on September 29 each year. National Silent Movie Day is a day to celebrate and enjoy silent movies. But, what is a silent movie? A silent movie is a film with no accompanying, synchronized, recorded spoken dialogue. Watching a movie combining motion pictures with recorded sound seems obvious, but movies did not have any sound at first. It was mainly because of the technical challenges involved. Combining motion pictures with recorded sound is nearly as old as the motion picture itself.

The Kohler Breakerless ignition system that you have either works well or not at all. If it is workring it has advantages over the Battery points system. No points to corrode or need adjusting... timing is perfect... I would leave it alone, it may run for years...if it does die then convert.

Rolled into crab camp at 3PM and moved in for the week. And the relaxing begins.

Now that we have high jacked Eric’s thread, and changed it to conversation on dielectric grease I’d like to add something. First I’d like to thank @wh500special for using words in post 134 like “parsimonious” that I almost had to look up! 😂 Second, I really didn’t even know I was using dielectric grease incorrectly. For years I would clean the contacts in the electrical plugs on my Fisher snowplow with electrical contact cleaner and then apply dielectric grease until it oozed out and then wipe off the excess. I never had a problem with those connections and it kept the water, salt and corrosion away. Third, here we are talking about grease and where is @peter lena?

A good start for crabby Ed.

Other side just for giggles...

Over Cape May just now.

All painted……for now. It’s a worker but it seems to be better than the last paint job so far.. And I preliminarily painted the belt cover with a spray can for The C-85 since it was off a Workhorse. Your turn @kpinnc.😁

Happy birthday Paul! Thanks for all you do for the Wheel Horse community!

I dunno... at WOT the incredible g forces that these bolts experience...

It’s true that dielectric grease is an insulator by definition, but I’m of the opinion it’s preferred in an application like a trailer wiring connector if your goal is to prevent water entry and corrosion of the mating metallic conductive surfaces. Conductive greases would seem better, but you’re going to have a hard time keeping them from migrating from the application site and they can easily bridge the space between adjacent pins and create undesirable stray currents and shorts. With standard dielectric grease, you’re relying on the pins and sockets to scrape away the grease at the local junction for continuity when you make the connection. I would expect the incidence of this NOT working is exceptionally small where there is high enough voltage and current to bust through the connection I think the key is to be parsimonious with the application of the non-conductive grease. Less is more and all you’re trying to do is keep the pins and sockets from corroding when the connector is open to air. Plus, a big lump of grease will hold a lot of dirt and schmutz that will find its way inside the contacts. You could, I suppose, also use the conductive stuff and carefully coat only the surfaces that matter and remove all the excess that might extrude out, but I think the risk of cross talk is high enough to not merit this level of fussiness. That marine forum snippet looks like it was probably from Jim Hebert as he used to post a lot on the Boston Whaler (Continuous Wave) and Evinrude forums. In general, if jimh posted an observation or made a recommendation you can take it to the bank as being well-reasoned and technically accurate. He’s right, dry contacts are better and no lube would be needed on the actual contact surfaces. But I think he’s also specifically talking about the sealed deutsch connectors that are ubiquitous on an Evinrude (and other outboards) that might occasionally go for a swim. When joined, these connectors rarely get water inside them as they have sealing O-rings, gaskets, and glands. I don’t know that dielectric grease is the best thing to use on a trailer wiring pigtail, but I am of the opinion that conductive greases aren’t a good fit. My trailers (and the truck receptacle) get an occasional spritz of aerosol dielectric grease to keep the water off the metal contacts when they are uncoupled. I’ve convinced myself it’s helpful. Steve

Picked up a 169 over the weekend. I might have over paid for it, but i know these are pretty uncommon. Has a deck, integral hitch and plow. Has a cracked oil pan from an over tightened drain plug and a brush paint job, but I'll be excited to get this one going again! Also the muffler is in great shape so thats a plus!

The front tab doesn't actually touch the foot peg. There is a frame underneath between the rear axle housing and bolted to the underside of the frame.

Over Coopersville 5 minutes ago.

I've used these 1 1/2" long ones from MMC and they work fine. Use with removable thread locker. 242

And use steel cotter pins...

No need for anything longer. I've used this size on all my tractors and they work as stud for wheels and for using spacers. One suggestion- use 4 bolts per wheel and keep one open for the OEM bolts. One hole is very close to the setscrew for the hub (see pic below) and makes loosening the setscrew a bit tricky. Use 7/16×20 bolts on the other four for each wheel from the back with lug nuts and they will line the wheel up nicely so you can add the 5th as a bolt from the front. Most lug nuts are 1/2×20. Make sure you get 7/16×20 lug nuts. The jungle site has them cheap.

Mine still works. If it ever quits, you can convert to points from the outside. The pin hole for the points push rod is plugged but easily removed. New keyswitch, coil, points, and cables. Easy but not cheap fix. You basically have to rewire the whole thing.

From @WHX?? post:

Readily available.

How did they get so many videos of "The Early Days of @Pullstart Stables?"

I took out some tractors I had stored in my enclosed trailer to put different ones in to go to a show yesterday. When I got home I didn’t feel like reloading them so I just put them in the garage.

@MainelyWheelhorse. If you want to change up the hood, and your cool with not being 100% original maybe add stripes ?

Decided to tackle this non-running C-141A I bought Friday. Looks like the original owner had starting issues and took the wrong turn at every step along the way. They even went so far as to direct wire a push-button start (with 12 gauge wire)! So, I basically cut away a half mile of unnecessary wiring, rerouted the remaining wires where they belonged. Also swapped out an incorrect coil, solenoid, condenser, and fried points. Set the points timing, fuel looked and smelled fresh, so I just replaced with a proper filter. Oil in engine and hydro looked new, Hit key - started! Aired tires, drove tractor, tested hydraulic lift, attached deck, and mowed several strips in the empty park behind our property. Outstanding day 1 results!

I did have to look it up... Wow talk about if the shoe fits ...

Pic below shows the correct spring placement on the engagement peddle. The spring puts rotational tension on the trip lever as well as putting tension on the PTO belt.

Loop head of a cotter pin at both ends. Simple and effective. Other blade numbers: 7906, 7907 NOS (I don’t know if these have a different shape or not) Try https://davespartsworld.com. He had at least one 8014 set at the Big Show

On the jacks EB. Some places still need extra blocks. The jacks work best at 3/4 or less extended. We all use a impact with a 3/4 socket. Not supposed to but these jacks are almost giveaways at rv places if one wrecks. Keep well lubed says greasy Pete

It clips on the cotter pin on the pedal linkage and another cotter pin on the frame

Yes it actually runs fine but I would rather convert it now when I have some time and eventually its going to be my kids tractor and im the electrician .

I use the wrench from my table saw. It's the correct size and is thin enough to fit without binding.

Do you have the lift mechanism(s) for the sleeve hitch? The 169 was the first Cub Cadet with a 16 hp engine, and may have been the first in the L&G industry (I'll have to actually do more research to prove that). While the 147 was the first for the 14 hp in CC's line, the 169 was in the next series of CC's.

Here's a video for ya in case ya need a nap.

Made some footrests. This one is done, done, done! Before and after as well as a close up of the back plate.

That's exactly why it's good to have some of those cheap crappy tools around. I have no problem grinding or bending or both on them to make unique tools when needed. Wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers etc etc. You name it. Don't be scared to pay a dollar for some cheap tools that can be modified without remorse. A modified wrench works good for those carb bolts too.

I recently bought the above 1-1/2" bolt from McMaster. They are not quite full thread. i contact4d them and they said the 1/6/ 3/32 is what industry considers full thread. so a flat washer is required on the back side, or make a small relief in the threads on the back side of the hub (which I don't exactly care for so i go the washer route.

An observation - the underside of the hex heads on the bolts seem to not be seated on the back of the hub, most likely due to the last thread at the head being imperfect. With the hub removed, I like to clean up the hub and chamfer the back of the hole to allow the hexbolt to bottom...

I r not as smartererer I struggled with a pair of needle nose pliers. You guys and your simple solutions.....

After flipping the axle on my Coleman I had to make extensions for my jacks to compensate for the 5 inches I lifted the camper. BTW, I needed the extra height. Where I camped at Savage River State Forest in western Md., I had to ford the creek 5 times to get to my turkey hunting spot. Even raising the camper, there was one deep ford that I raced thru to minimize the amount of water in the camper.

I have. Several in fact. I've had to replace connectors on the vehicle side a few times over the years and I've gone through at least two on the little utility trailer that we picked up maybe 8 or 9 years ago... I have not been in the habit of putting anything on the connectors in the past. But I don't really feel like rewiring a seven pole on either this new camper or the new utility trailer we picked up a few months ago. Unfortunately, experience clearly shows me that it's only going to be a matter of time so I would like to prevent whatever corrosion I can.

Yes those could be factory welds. You have to remember WH was building consumer garden tractors, not structural steel or process piping.

My widowed neighbor brought this sign into my shop about 3 weeks ago. Her special needs son had tried to restore it with a rattle can. She said she had a dream about the sign and my name came up. Would I like to paint it.? No way I can ruin a dream for a wonderful neighbor. So it became a project. I took the sign to a local cabinet / sign maker for advice on paints and clear coatings. In 2 minutes he had it on his screen. He made the sign in 1995. I thought about paying him to make a new one, but I knew my neighbor would prefer the old one. It had taken a 1/2" warp over the 30 years and I decided to not correct it, but added two ribs to keep it together. Used some soldering irons as wood burners to reestablish the outlines. Three coats of brown oil based enamel, three coats of gold water based acrylic, and the fourth and final coat of water based spar poly today.

Wake up Jonny Boy, you're having a nightmare.

I had a big ten with a lawn vac on it. I miss the tractor but not the vac lol

Today the wife and I took a boat ride over to the North Fork of Long Island to grab some lunch. On the way we passed the ferries that run to Shelter Island. Here’s a few pictures.

Those tractors would have been awesome with a start/gen k161!

We told our wives we were going after some parts.

I tinkered a little more today. Got the lift sorted out. Manual lift of course but this will be used to raise a clevis hitch, a tiller, and even a 3-point when needed. I used a 1.5 inch receiver tube only to make a quick connection to change out lift parts. There will NOT be a ball hitch used here. I added another tab on the lift arm bell crank, and a hole in the center console for the link to pass through. It doesn't take much travel to make alot of lift on the far end. And the link clears the shifters easily. Still got some reinforcement to add up here. I'll make up adapters to insert into the rear lift tube for whatever is hanging back there.