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I am going to have some new Schnacke Nuts made for Kohler K 90 and 91 motors! I acquired a Schnacke with my latest RJ purchase and the 1 1/2 inch HEX Nut was already rounded which explained why the Schnacke was off the motor and the rope pull was being used! McMaster Carr sells 7/8 HEX rod in different lengths. I bought 12 inches which should make 7 good ones 1 1/2 long. I am also going to have the 7/16 x 20 threads placed on each end so the Kohler HEX Nut can be reversed and used on the other end after wear

Picked up this marketplace barn find rescue today. This picture its getting ready for a pressure washer bath.After the bath I will need to decide what I am going to do with this tractor.

Ditched Facebook. Im free

Finally decided to pull that welch plug near governor. Weights and pin where stuck. Sprayed it down with some Kroil and bingo its working as it should. No more adding throttle to make it up a hill, you can feel the governor working though linkage and throttle response is much better. I just need to wait for my new welch plug and fine tune it. Appreciate everyones input on this.

Working on mowing decks. Rinse. Flip. Repeat. I'll pressure wash later and coat the bottoms with used oil. After that I took a few things off the parts 520H. Hood. Front mule. Rear part of the blower/bagger. Rear hitch. The hitch pin came RIGHT OUT!!

Short ride this morning, but it puts me just over 300 miles this summer (with plenty of riding days left)

Great Egg Toss Day takes place on September 6 every year. The day celebrates the sport of egg tossing. Did you know that the egg toss game has a world championship? Yes, while most people find it difficult to believe, there is a sport called ‘egg toss.’ Not bad, right? Egg toss is usually associated with Easter in the U.S. but is now celebrated throughout the year. So let us look at how this game is played and other interesting facts about the egg toss game. Egg tossing is a fun and simple game where people play in teams. The rules are quite easy: one member of the two-person game tosses an egg to another. There are two categories in the game — tosser and catcher. The tosser is the one who throws the egg and the other player is the catcher. The game is played starting at 10 meters apart. If the egg does not break, they step apart and the toss is repeated. The game goes on till one egg remains unbroken. So, you need to ensure that you have the unbroken egg at the end.

The high tension lines are about 2-300 yards behind our house and not really visible. When they were working on them about 10 years ago, the wife calls me in a big panic saying they are dropping people off out of helicopters. She thought it was a Russian invasion or something! LOL

I’m currently doing some needed maintenance, adjustments, and repairs to my recently-acquired New Holland GT18 (the New Holland version of the Toro 518xi), which is the new companion to my 522xi. The old steering tie rod ends had a lot of play in them, and one of them even had a washer welded onto it to keep the ball from popping out. The OEM replacements I was able to find were very pricey, so I looked for some lower-cost general-purpose rod ends that looked like they matched the originals. I found some that had the same threads and external measurements as the ones that were on the tractor. However, when I pulled back the rubber dust boots to see if the innards were the same, I found that the old rod end had a larger ball and larger neck on the stud where it meets the ball. I won't speculate as to whether or not the low-cost replacement rod ends would be good enough, but I prefer replacement parts to be as strong or better than the originals, and I didn't have any load ratings to compare them. Thinking about it some more, I thought it might be nice to have greaseable rod ends, and Heim joints came to mind. I found some ½”-thread, stud-type Heim joints from McMaster-Carr that looked like they would do the job (the dimensions, thread sizes, swivel angle range, etc., looked OK to me). I wanted to install rubber dust boots on the joints, and I found some that I thought 'might' fit, although one of the holes was much smaller than the diameter of the female-thread shank of the joint, so it would have to stretch quite a bit…hopefully without tearing. If anyone knows about other dust boot options for these joints, let me know. In the meantime, I'm using these boots. Here’s a photo of one of the Heim joints and one of the boots that I ordered (the boots did not come with the cable ties). Trying to stretch the boot onto the joint with my fingers alone was not working very well. I noticed that some dust boot suppliers were selling four-prong stretching tools/pliers for that specific purpose. These tools appeared to me to be re-labelled ‘goat banding’ tools. Some of you with livestock would know that these tools are used for applying stiff rubber bands to a critter for the purpose of removing certain, shall we say, 'unwanted body parts.' Anyway, I found one at Tractor Supply for about 12 bucks that worked very well for stretching the dust boots. I was pleasantly surprised to see how much the small hole in the boot could be stretched without tearing. I purposely over-stretched one (even farther than shown in the photo) just to make sure it didn’t tear. So far, none of them have torn, but I guess time will tell. After I figured out the best way of using it to install the first boot, the rest were a snap to install. Here’s a joint with the boot installed (cable ties not installed yet): I thought I’d grease the joints before installing them on the tractor, as I wanted to make sure that the grease would go in OK without damaging the boots, and I also wanted to rotate the stud/ball while greasing it so that the initial charge or grease would completely surround the ball. I screwed a bolt (or the end of a tie rod) into the joints and pumped grease into them until it started to ooze out around the openings in the boots. After greasing the joints I squeezed the boots a bit to force out any air bubbles and excess grease, and then installed cable ties on the boots. I don’t know if the cable ties are really necessary, but they at least make the boots appear more secure. I figured it couldn’t hurt. Note: Before screwing the ends of the tie rods into the joints, I temporarily unscrewed the zerk fitting, which prevented air bubbles as well as the excess grease in the female-threaded part of the joint from being forced into the joint and boot. The residual grease in the threads should help prevent the joint from seizing up with rust over time. I had a #@*%! time getting a couple of the old rusted rod ends off. It took several long soaks in penetrating oil/solvent, applications of heat, and a barrage of unprintable language before they surrendered. For future lubrication, I would slowly add just enough grease to see the boot swell up a bit and perhaps have a little bit ooze out. Here are the completed tie rod ends: I installed the tie rods on the tractor, jacked it up by the frame, and checked for binding as I moved the axle tilt and steering through their full ranges of motion. Everything seemed fine to me. BTW, the nut is an all-metal distorted-thread lock nut. Coming up: A second steering issue to deal with.

Spent about 4 hours on the Escape today: The welds aren't pretty, but they are solid, and I am very much concerned with function over form here. I still have to drill a series of holes for the pins to attach the rocker trim, but I haven't measured for them yet.

Or you can find an old worn out commercial scrape blade and cut you a thick one from the wear bar. This one weighs about 80lbs. Got mine from Don @Lee1977 and fabbed the rest. It will spin the tires on the tractor without jumping just because of the weight.

Today I removed the brackets from the front thatcher and bolted on a bump receiver hitch and inserted a sleeve hitch yoke. Should have thought of it sooner...it lifts easy and attaches quickly

Can't speak for the specific brand, but a tractor-mounted vac system is a great addition if you have alot of leaves for sure. I built one for my FIL a few years ago, and he loves it. They are also great if rain puts you behind on mowing and you want to pick up excessive clippings. Now I gotta build one to clean my son's room...

So.., you mow rocks up der' in da Nord?

Just after you throw something out, you'll go looking for it, thinking to yourself I know I have it. I just saw it.

Yes, they are silver soldered. Enough heat, it melts again. I have stay-silv flux and silver solder in my plumber’s crack box to get it back together.

The biggest issue with the WH mid graders is the fact it's pretty light weight. They want to skid more than dig. You need a solid lift link and you just about have to stand on the top edge. You need something heavy with teeth.

I made up a short scarifier to fit my 42" WH plow. When not in use, it flips up out of the way...

I knew I kept that motor for the right tractor one day. Even tho it is not my tractor I am happy to see you made it work!

Today I missed a spot on my painted C-141 hood yesterday so after work I tried to touch it up. That ended up needing to be peeled off to the previous layer with a lot of elbow grease, time, and thinner. I’ll try again tomorrow. Apparently spray paint and paint gun paint are different. It’s all a learning experience.

I have used my home built pulverizer on my gravel drive to get the grass out. It's still a tough job, as you still have to seperate the grass from the gravel. Best to kill the grass before trying to remove it.

Well the machine referenced here is now sitting on my trailer. Another E-141. no batterys but has deck intact with it's charger. wiring has been messed with, wrong key switch on it, wrong seat switch. Brand new tires. I don't think it will take alot to get it going. i will post pics tomorrow. i no more than got home from a small local show and it started pouring rain.

Thanks. Glad I purchased a cheap borescope. Saved me from tearing into an engine that didnt need it.

He said he was 5. And we're grown men who play with toy sized tractors. All things being equal- I think the grandson is way out ahead of us.

Two things: 1) Kid knows the correct tractor color. 2) Kid does not know correct color for Dad...

My 5 year old drew me a picture of me on a tractor.

Look like run of the mill knobs to me. That's what I used on my 551

This engine really had me thinking. I knew it was a governor issue but wasnt sure where in governor system its was. Ive adjusted kohler governor's before so I felt pretty good about doing it but something was off one this one. I picked up a cheap borescope on Amazon and was able to see into engine and thats when I was sure it was the weights. I really didnt want to tear apart a good running engine, so I felt pretty good about pulling that welch plug to get to governor gear. Work through the whole system and take everyones advice here.

Sparky I believe that those tires were calcium filled. I have not checked the other tire as of yet for fluids. The original owners nephew showed me the original wheel and tire which were completely rusted away, and the rust continued into the axle hub. I'm still weighing options as to what to do with this.

Nice workmanship and good tip on the TOOL.

Eric, the first principle of any sort of wrenching is to assume any work you didn't do yourself was done wrong. The second is to assume any work you did do yourself was done wrong. I'm not familiar with that uinit butit has screws on the cover, that means it's removable. I don't know what the insides look like, but it's symmetrical. That means that cover can be installed backwards. Turning it 180 degrees would put the "in" marking where the hose from the tank was originally.

My condolences!!!!

You're gonna need more tractors...

Then it is not connected correctly or one or both of the two check valves is frozen closed. If the two check valves are working properly, you should be able to blow air or pump fuel through any pump.

It's actually my Daughter I have 3 girls haha The oldest is 5 then a 4 year old and a 2 year old.

Weird... Go with an electric pump and bypass it altogether?

I That's great, but I'm not sure if artist is in his future.

I call this the rat 1056 because noting is standard on it.If had a part I made it work. I picked this engine up from Stevbo and I gotta say I’m very happy the way this turned out. I had my doubts in the beginning, but they seem to be gone now. After much tinkering, I finally got this engine to run pretty good as you can see by the video. Turning this into my snow plow tractor I’m thinking of taking it to Zagray in October. Hope you enjoy the video. IMG_0759.mov

Thanks Joe. She`s a keeper.

No John not yet. I am kind of happy the way it is. I think I will put it on the 1057 and bring it down in the spring. Thanks for the post.

Thanks Kevin.

I watched them replace the static line on the big double poles. This was a 30 degree day. I can't imagine what the temp was in the rotor wash!

I have well over 24 cubic feet of drawers neatly organized and packed solid with that sort of stuff and still can't stay away from hardware stores.

I started sorting and reorganizing shelves, drawers and bins. I also had 3 11 x 14 x 2 pans full of hardware, parts, nuts, bolts, and washers. Now I need to sort by sizes and put in hardware drawers.Then put away or discard the oddball stuff in the large pan.

Fabbed up a fan guard for my 875

Haban supplied Allis. I got a hold of a pile of Allis stuff last year and I sold the sickle to the Flip Flop Kid.

Cyclo-vac makes a hitch for Wheel Horses

Watching despicable me 3 Gru I'm pretty sure is mowing grass with a wheel horse

Yep, my Raider was in the dirt 2 weeks after final assembly.