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Finished the headlight mod.

Get some steak sizzling over an open flame because August 18 is National Fajita Day. It’s a day to celebrate the authentic taste of the Southwest with the fiesta of flavor known as the fajita. Throw in some awesome black beans or even add a little hot sauce, guacamole, sour cream, or cheese. The combinations are endless. It’s National Fajita Day so you know what you’ve got to do (eat fajitas, obviously).

Chicken or steak ???? My answer is - YES please.

Hosed tractor off to get the big chunks removed. Removed fuel tank and fender support bracket, side covers and foot rests, drive belt, drive pulley and fan, All parts removed have been degreased and washed. Tractor degreased.

So yesterday I met up with @Pullstart to swap a couple tractors... I'm looking at another restoration, only this one runs, has good tires, and overall seems in pretty good shape. LED lights even work... In keeping with my budget (think Ramon noodles), I have already fixed the seat at no cost. Will be changing the oil in motor and trans, doing a thorough cleaning, replacing the shifter boot, and then seeing what direction I go from there... This one may just stay in its work clothes... Some pics:

started using a gun a few years back and yep it is so much better. I know you did not ask but here are a few tips. I was always shying away due to the clean up of the gun. I use brake cleaner now and with the straw and it cleans up in less than 5. especially when using disposable cups. I mix the hardener with the reducer first then add to the paint. I like about 1 to 5 mix @28psi. and use the thumb to pinky distance for the gun. of course using a piece of cardboard to get the pattern dialed in. I have found if I have a light in the background, it helps for how fast I move the gun. I look at the sheen in reflection of the light and speed up or slow down so it maintains a wet edge. I buy the single stage auto paint on eBay that has the reducer and hardener included. I have used this paint a few times and it works really well. Available in quarts too.

Are there any signs that someone has been in that transmission before you? I suspect those plastic bushing are not factory. Something a PO installed

Oops it’s been a while since I updated the thread… Since the last update I have Put the hood on, Tightened down the sheet metal. built a battery hood down and an exhaust pipe with a brace. Made a lexan headlight lens and got the head lights working. Painted the rims. Then, started in painting the sheet metal. That’s where I’m at today.

Rust-Oleum Regal Red seems to be the choice of many Wheel Horse owners. As far as the engine, the only area that gets hot enough to discolor the paint is around the exhaust. Decals from redoyourhorse.com (our vendor Vinylguy), may be a little pricy, but they are good, and as far as I know, they may be your only source for some one of a kind decals like dash panels and engine spec plates.

I brought an RJ home today. 5 hour round trip. Older restoration, hasn’t ran in years, piston is free. I’ll work on this in my spare time …. The gentleman threw in what he said was an original fabricated slot hitch. Can anyone confirm this? I know the front wheels are not correct, saw that right away. Its granddaughter approved !

Silly question - are the check valves installed in their proper direction - from the tank to let fuel in, to carb to let fuel out?? Are they functional, not stuck open??

i'm with oliver2-44. some PO must have done a little jerry rigging. to think someone dropped the tranny, opened it up and went thru all that time and trouble and not fix it correctly. good grief!

Yesterday after the initial coat of paint and filler primer, the body panels needed a bit more filler. after spot putty and apparently half kicked bondo that was still sticky today. I’ve got it figured out. After a scrape down of the old Bondo, and bit of new Bondo. It’s almost ready for another try at painting it. I’m going to attempt that before dark tonight if not tomorrow afternoon. It’s been an adventure😄

Start with 10 oz paint 1 1/2 of reducer and 1 oz hardener to start. And I usually end up with 10 oz paint and 2 oz reducer. with 1 oz hardener Start out on the low side on reducer you can always add. I never mix more than 10 oz of paint. I use those cheap Harbor Freight guns and run the feed near wide open. I move pretty fast on the first coat as the tack coat. About 10 minutes and re coat slower. Some like to touch the paint on an area like the tape and if the paint doesn't come off on your finger it is ready to re coat. The Mfg recommends 8 parts paint 2 parts reducer and 1 part hardener. Which is a little thinner than i prefer.

If you become a supporter of this site you can post all the pictures you want and we all think your name would look good in RED. You have received a great deal of support from Red Square, it is time for you to support Red Square.

@Bill D Hi Bill, I will gladly take those measurements for you when I get home. Currently camping on the ocean!

Healing takes time.

Looks like JD green. The oil pan may be different, but you can always swap you existing one on to it.

There is your plow mule for next year

Ya gets what ya paid for...... Rustoleum is a good "backyard" type of product - but - you need to wait about a month in order to apply the decals. It has a very slow cure time. Some folks buy the paint in quarts, mixing it with a hardening catalyst. That is best applied with a HVLP spraygun. Having bought several times from Vinylguy, I was never diaappointed....

Had a few out stretching their legs.

Today was paint day, I was also getting used to and dialing in my new gravity feed Husky paint gun. I got it in June for my birthday. The panels overall are going to need a little sanding and touch up especially the rear pan and guards as they were the first thing painted. The hood turned out great and no runs overall. It’s a learning curve. It beats using a spray can too.

Continued with the deep cleaning of the C-85. A few before and after pics:

That's a reference... I guess I thought Menards was regional. Must be all over???

Hope you're having a great time. Looks beautiful.

So, all was healing well. My hand was looking and feeling good, I trimmed some dead skin away, yee haw. The weekend came, and we were camping. 3 on 3 volleyball was suggested and that was going well also. Boys were up 1 game but it was getting close to becoming even. I went for a rogue ball, and managed to hit the back on my left hand with my right palm, immediately splitting it back open. Liquid bandage to the rescue, and no more volleyball. No more submerging in the pool. We basically started over. 🤦‍♂️ left handed face palm, of course…

Do you have an engine serial number. That would help determine age. Also an engine spec number would help determine what is off off. If it’s off of something like a tiller or wood splitter it may not have that many hours on it. The tins and rope or electric starter are worth more than $60. There’s a good chance the carb is good but needs cleaning. The carb may need a new bowl of water/ethanol ate into it. It itspainte dark blueish green or gray there’s a good chance it is a factory replacement engine or short block.

I did find a Stens replacement for the gear. The new rubber should do the trick

Thank you for the advice I rather get this transmission fixed up instead of replacing it.

The engine cylinder cooling fins and head should only receive a single light coat of High heat paint. Paint is not good at transferring heat and you want the cooling fins to do their job.

And you learned a lot along the way and we created a thread that others can benefit from. Winner all around.

i came upon a few older neglected and abused heavily pitted decks that looked like that shell. Frankly, the wire wheel, or a pneumatic scaler, or a 90 degree disc pad all work only modestly - - but for me when they are pitted that extensively it's worth the $$ to have professionally sand blasted to remove all the corrosion in the recessed pits ----- then i am confident primer then paint will be more effective with longer life instead of painting over the rust pits that still have some corrosion in them.

Spare front axle cleaned up and painted. I will do the same to the one from this 416 and use the best one on final assembly.

Next time i am in Terpstras i will get s picture of the picture on their wall with the four horse tractor team that Wheel Horse lent dealers !

Took Artie out for a ride yesterday. Need to drive it more battery was low.

There are some around here who obviously are known to do things right, and take pride in their work. However, *thumps his chest*, I am not limited by such quaint things things as skill and know-how. So, I fixed my steering problem with a no-weld, no-skill, no-shame solution. \ any bets on how many days it will last?

Started the investigation into the C175 to see what’s causing the front plug to get fouled with carbon. Intake valve has some buildup. Not as bad as I expected.

1974 C160-8 Tecumseh engine tractor with a splayed forward front axle. Custom built tie rods. 5 x 4.5 trailer hubs. In for it's initial front end alignment.

Take em off and run old school highway pegs ... You got a z turn any way... I suppose old school mowing... all the 60's decks I got I should go to old school just for the halibut.

Finally brought the 416 home from the mother-in-laws place. When I got home I thought I would drive the GT1600 onto the trailer to ensure two tractors would fit. They do. Trailer dropped down 1" (from 4" fender to tire to 3" fender to tire) with the weight of the tractors so I am happy with that as well.

That's the excuse I always use...... But for me. Not tractors.

Jim the deck is a good foot rest for her while she grows into the stirrups 👍 @stevasaurus you’re really gonna love this name we came up with! 1076... 76ers comes to mind. Philadelphia 76ers. Philly. A Filly is a female horse too young to be a mare. Rylee’s “Filly”

Steve, glad you got it & sound like you will get the original engine too! I'm jealous! I put in the serial # with my others and it is only 10 numbers lower than my 57 serial #!!!!! Yours has the same kind of tires, engine, etc. that mine does. My serial # is 5028920 on my clinton and yours is 5028910......that is very close together. The bumps on the right rear backing plate facing out instead of in is correct for the 57 models as it has the "updated" pawl setup over the previous years.....same as mine. On the new style they didn't need the bumps on the inside for the spring to hit, so they just flipped the plate around and welded it on backwards. Also, the extra 2 bolts in the hood and hood stand like a 58 is an update to the 57 model. My vote is that your rj is an early 57. I posted some pics of mine to compare. The first pic is when I got it and it had black wheels & red seat. This was before I knew for sure that most 57's did come this way, so I painted them cream like everyone says it is suppose to be.....which over time is proven not to be so. When I restore this one I will put it back to original with black wheels & red seat. Great find Steve!!!!! Clay