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bought a 312-8 new in 1989 --- my Aunt Alice left me a very small few $ when she passed -- My wife and I lived on very, very tight budget with two young children at that time in 1989 and I could never have afforded a WH - so we used her generosity to go buy a tractor and have called it Big Al to this day in honor of my Aunt Alice --- my son started plowing with it in '89 at age 8 - and has a 520Xi now and his son has a 520HC -- - and now my other two grandsons, age 12, are involved doing a rehab with me on a 314. Great to see the next generations carry on the traditions -

National Jump for Jelly Beans Day is a U.S. holiday celebrated on July 31. Not only is it a day set aside to appreciate jelly beans, but it’s also a day to jump for joy simply because they exist. Jelly beans have been around for more than a century in the U.S. and have secured themselves a position among the most consumed candies in the country. It’s not only a candy loved by most Americans but a candy that even a one-time president described as his favorite. And so, there’s little wonder why it’s so popular and why two holidays were created to celebrate it.

As I get older I really can’t stand extreme hot or cold. I need weather like San Francisco weather where it’s 72 and sunny most of the time, but I’m definitely not moving there😂

Met up with Pullstart briefly today and got him the tires that were on this tractor, he has some much better tractors for those to go on. And got parts from him for this tractor, I will get some pictures and such tomorrow. Very much thanks for his efforts of getting me parts. After I met with him, I got this Brinly plow from FB marketplace that wasn't far away. Used very little and looks like it was probably stored inside.

Some Engines feel like they idle a bit smoother, and accelerate a bit cleaner, could be old coils not quite putting out rated voltage. Magnums, like Onans, really pour on the fuel when you get into the governor and the resistance at the plug goes up, if it exceeds the coils power output you get no ignition. A wider gap means more power, but its a balance. I used to see a bunch of Snapper Joystick Z mowers and Craftsman GTs with Magnum Twins. Sometimes you'd get a momentary dead miss on power up on one side, close up the plugs a hair and that completely went away.

The "D" models were well equiped for the situation you have. The PTO is engineered into the tractor rather than being an add-on and they are a much more robust unit overall.

This is where I put my fuel pump on the 856.It calls for a low placement. Just start fresh and change every thing -lines -filters-carb rebuild.Good luck and hope it turns out well.

I sold this machine, but the new owner’s happy!

My 2 cents.... 8 HP is marginal to run a tiller, even if is in great running condition. Best used to till an area free of rocks & roots, not unbroken unknown soil. The Commando 8 is a 4 speed.... you really need the low range 6 or 8 speed to be able to run the engine at WOT and still have a slow enough ground speed. Or an automatic? Right implement, wrong tractor.....

Today, I repurposed a few extra coffee cups for workshop stuff. I built an exhaust pipe with assistance from my father and mounted the new muffler to it for the C -141. And drove it over to my house. it’s been it’s been sitting at my parents next door for the last 2 months or so. Just little things and painting now.

UPDATE: I posted this in another thread, but thought I'd share it here is well for the benefit of anyone chasing down Mighty Mac topics.

I'm glad to see this, that museum seems like a hidden secret! We went there about 15 years ago and I was very impressed! Back then they had a A10 out back and from these pictures it looks like it's being displayed inside now, so that's good to see. During my time in Desert Storm in 1990/1991 I feel that the Apache helicopters and the A10s probably helped save our lives! I've read how the Air Force is trying to decommission the A10s due the the new F35s and I don't know if that's a good thing or not. C-85

I would agree with that. There is a fairly large torque increase from small block to big block on a K series or Magnum Kohler. Stroke, compression, even the mass of the individual flywheel makes a difference. My point was you don't need 25hp to run a tiller and that low range alone has more impact on the tiller performance than does pure horsepower. All that being said, tillers have been used with small block Kohler-equipped tractors successfully since the 1960s (especially after 1967). Obviously, as with any powered implement the performance rises with the amount of power applied. That is a given.

https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d3/downloads/monthly_02_2013/4ef4770f77cdcfea3ac9b076f67aebc2-ark-loader.pdf Here is a much clearer copy.

I fully agree with the others on the thread. Firstly, the 36 inch rear tillers were some of the absolute best attachments Wheel Horse ever made. I would say this concerning horsepower: I tilled with a 310-8 for years. It was very strong, even in solid red clay that was loaded with rocks. That being said, 10 horsepower isn't much, but the low range on the tractor is what allows less power to do so much work. The slower ground speed allows the tiller to take a far smaller bite. Point being? A healthy 8 hp engine might be enough under certain conditions, but the low range of an 8 speed is what is an absolute necessity.

Try these with your under sized spuds! SMASHED POTATOES 12 small red or yellow potatoes (about 1-1/2 pounds) 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup butter, melted 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley Directions Preheat oven to 450°. Place potatoes in a large saucepan; add water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cook, uncovered, until tender, 15-20 minutes. Drain. Leave the potatoes in the hot pan until cool to dry them out some. This is a key point! · Drizzle oil over the bottom of a 15x10x1-in. baking pan; arrange potatoes over oil. Using a potato masher or fork, flatten potatoes to 1/2-in. thickness. Brush potatoes with butter; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until golden brown, 20-25 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and parsley. Serve with sour cream if desired.

Yikes! Those pics reminded me of the time wife bought us tickets to see Eric Clapton in Boston for my birthday. She got us a room in a hotel and we went wine shopping in the North End. Carrying a bag with several bottles in one hand and a box of pastry from Mike's in the other, I tripped on a cobble stone and went down. The wine hit first and the bottles broke. Left hand followed into the bag! A hand surgeon at Mass General had to stitch up 2 fingers, 40+ stitches. Thought I was loosing my pinky, but I did save the pastry! Worst thing, is we missed the show!

I miss Ronnie.......

Robot lawn mowers... Hope those boys run it over accidentally...

The tractor illustrated parts list includes the engine.

I dang near flipped a boat on that river. Oh, to be young again, lolz!

I got this black hood running… and it works great!

If it is outdoors and I can't get it done be 10:00 am it will still be there tomarow. Been doind about an houre of weeding each morning so far but a few cool days are coming up.

Tried D & D. 👎👎 Two thumbs down. Tried a white colored Dayco brand. Nope. Tried blue STENS brand. OK for 60s tractors but NOT for my 1974 and up C Series 8 Speeds. Tried green Gates brand. Those were fine for both vintage transmissions BUT I can get an original OE Wheelhorse belt for less money. Same for the Napa Gates. Why would I use aftermarket when OE is less money......? For Trina's 1960s: We've been using blue Stens from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA when she needs a replacement. For my 1974 and up: OE Wheelhorse ONLY on 8 speeds.

Thought about mowing and trimming bushes yesterday after work, and it just stayed a thought lol today's heat index is 104 here so it might just stay a thought again

Yesterday was so hot, our friends invited us on a boat ride. Went out the Merrimack River to the ocean and across to the Anisquam River into Gloucester for lunch at Cape Ann Marina. Cruised back behind Plumb Island through the Plumb Island River to Newburyport harbor. The Merrimack River mouth can get nasty! Wonderful way to spend a HOT day!

Welcome to Red Square. Here is a list of the blades that will work. Do a search using the model numbers and look for an IPL (illustrated parts list) to see all the parts. Let us know if you need help. 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 - (Last blade to have a loose A-frame crossbar #7701) 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here including this one they are 42" wide) and (First blade to have a welded-in rear A-frame crossbar) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) - replaced by the following 1990 model 06-48BC02 (Last blade to have 3 angle positions) 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 (First blade to have 5 angle positions) 1993-2001 model 79350 - (105-1502 kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series)

No @Pullstarts were harmed in the making of this story

It’s aluminum after looking closer and tapping it.. said glass by mistake after re reading what others wrote

Looks excellent!

Warthogs fly over my house regularly for training. I hate to think that such a proven plane would be history. The F35 is a whole different plane and I think there is a place for both, but spending money seems to be the priority.

I just thank all who served - ground or air - to make our freedom possible...

I think a K-241 vs K-181 has a significantly advanced torque curve from the longer rod. It’s not fair to rate them only 2 powers apart, when we need the torque numbers. After all, horsepower is how fast we can hit a wall. Torque is how far we can push it.

32" Snowthrower DNA - For tractors with horizontal shaft engines 1963 model ST-323 - Fits 701, 502, 552, 702, 603, 653, 753, 604 (Drive belt 1589 1/2" x 56.5") (Chute turned by belt 1590 3/8" x 43") 1964 model ST-324 - Fits 701, 502, 552, 702, 603, 633, 653, 753, 604, 654, 704, 854, 605, 655, 855 (Uses # 41 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 1/4") (Drive belt 1589 1/2" x 56.5") (First model to use cable on the chute) 1965 model ST-325 - Fits 701, 502, 552, 702, 603, 633, 653, 753, 604, 654, 704, 854, 605, 655, 855, 1045, 1055 (Uses # 41 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 1/4") (Drive belt 1589 1/2" x 56.5") 1966-1967 model ST-326 - Fits 701, 502, 552, 702, 603, 633, 653, 753, 604, 654, 704, 854, 605, 655, 855, 1045, 1055, 606, 656, 856, 876, 607, 657, 857, 867, 877 (Uses # 41 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 1/4") (Drive belt 1589 1/2" x 56.5") 1968-1969 model 6-2211 - Fits 500 Special, Commando 6, Commando 8, WorkHorse 700 (Formerly ST-326) (Uses # 41 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 1/4") (Drive belt 1589 1/2" x 56.5") 1971 model 6-0100 - Fits 800 Automatic, 800 Special, Bronco 14, Charger 12, Raider 10, Raider 12, WorkHorse 800 (No record of 6-0100 at Toro. Suspect it was same as 6-0200 plus 6-9112 in one package) (Uses # 40 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 5/16") (Uses #101460 lift tube and #9750 5/8" x 69" belt) 1972 model 6-0200 plus 6-9112 - Fits Commando 800 (Uses # 40 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 5/16") (Uses #102729 lift tube and #102743 5/8" x 65.95" belt) 1972 model 6-0200 plus 6-9112 - Fits 800 Automatic, Bronco 14, Charger 10, Charger 12, Raider 8, Raider 10, Raider 12, Raider 14 (Uses # 40 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 5/16") (Uses #101460 lift tube and #9750 5/8" x 69" belt) 1973 model 6-0200 plus 6-9131 - Fits 8hp 4-Speed (Uses # 40 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 5/16") (Use #102729 lift tube and #102743 5/8" x 65.95" belt) 1973 model 6-0200 plus 6-9113 - Fits 8hp 8-Speed, 10hp 8-Speed, 10hp Automatic, 12hp 8-Speed, 12hp Automatic, 14hp 8-Speed, 14hp Automatic, 16hp Automatic (Uses # 40 chain Pitch 1/2" and roller width 5/16") (Use #101460 lift tube and #9750 5/8" x 69" belt) 1974 model 6-0201 is a 37" model 1975 model 6-0202 is a 37" model Notice the early snowthrower model numbers include the width followed by the year the model was introduced.

There is one model listed in the Implement Interchange Chart in that section...

gwest_ca-(File Mod) I can verify that the purple wire does go to the engine stator from the connector plug. Also the white wire from the engine coil to the connector plug changes to a dark blue wire that continues to the ignition switch Clueless i have the what is believed to be the original 6 connector switch, which I have replaced with another 6 connector switch. I will continue to look at those manuals you listed. I am really finding this wiring from a previous owner challenging to say Thanks again for everyone's help in this endeavor

I’ve done it with my 8 hp 8 speed 502. I wouldn’t recommend it honestly!

That definitely is important, Eric. I agree with that 100%.

Thankyou for the ese details 953 nut. It's amazing just how much stuff they made. Puts my little lot to shame. A friend and I have built a 4ft tow-behind mower powered by a B & S 8hp which works well on shorter grass but it struggles and conks out with the long stuff. Maybe I should just put a larger motor on that. I guess one way might be to power up a hydraulic unit to drive the blades instead of the B & S. I have, however, just found this advert on Marketplace for a D200 which includes a PTO driven cutting deck. Bit expensive at £2,900 but still interesting.

We were in Baton Rouge for the last two weeks..... it wasn't unusual to see the weather app in the morning: Temperature = 89....... real feel 113..... it was like wearing the heat and humidity.

I've had good luck with the TSC belts. That being said, many of my machines have non-OEM pulleys at the transmission. My only complaint is that the TSC belts shed alot of blue dust during break in on the PTO side of the engine and belt guard. They stop after 3-5 hours of use, but it's annoying with a new belt.

Just for starters, dump the sediment bowl on the carb. It's a common spot for condensation to build up and attract crud due to corrosion of the aluminum. Be careful when removing it. Do not twist the bowl so you don't destroy the seal. If that doesn't solve the problem you might have to replace your fuel lines and filter.

Very cool. Many thanks! Dad and granddad were Air force. Grampa was a pilot, Dad was a Mechanic. Growing up in the Midwest we would go to S.A.C museum and airshows. Folks would gather around to listen to them thinking they worked there being so knowledgeable. As a kid it made little sense. Just proud and could not comprehend how they gathered so much information about aircraft. Thanks, Great memories!

Some are bolted and some are welded. Only matters if once installed it is not a the proper angle to do its job. As for the front axle pin, I found that my axle was shifting fore and aft within its bracket. I got a pack of various-thickness shims to eliminate most of that play.

Transmission is apart. Good news is no broken teeth, no metal chunks, and a couple of needle bearings fell apart as I was taking it apart, but no damage from that. But.... There are some teeth that got ground on. I'm guessing your guys solution to that is just file a little bit on the teeth and smooth them up. Put my order in since I don't need the extra bearings. And another question is this belt guide/brake suppose to be welded on? This is the arm the clutch idler pulley attaches to.

Gang reel mowers?

I'm going to say something that may offend a few wheel horse owners and ark loader owners .... I have been watching posts for rebuilding these lift cylinders. What the hell is the big secret? It seems the o rings and wipers would have already been specified in some post here. This isn't frickin rocket science! Logic dictates that ARK specified a brand and part number for each o ring and wiper, orrrrrr....they bought the cylinders off the shelf and installed them. But somebody here has had to rebuild their own cylinders at one time or another. Why are the sizes or part numbers not specified in the posts? (I haven't come across them).

Thanks for the update!!! Always helpful for future searches on the subject. Is that the drain plug (indent) on the top of the pump in the pic above? Assuming you just turned the pump 180 deg and reconnected the hoses.

Just wanted to let everyone know I reversed the hoses on the pump and everything works now. Thanks for all the suggestions.