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If your planning to haul full size tractors such as C series a 6’6”x12‘ is the way to go. Will hold 4 machines nicely. This is mine from last week loaded for a local show. The 520-8 and 308-8 are full size, there is also an 857 and a B-80 on the trailer.

Got the barn doors up. The doors I got for free, but I had to put the chalkboard insert in them. The track I already had it was laying in the barn, I just repainted it. And then got the door hardware.

Welcome to Red Square and you are in luck. There happens to be a Wheel Horse Tractor Show in Ardentsville, Penn. the weekend after Father's Day. Not too far from you and over 1000 tractors for show and many for sale. We have lists of Horses through the years that you can check out to find an auto that fits your needs. If you need one faster, take a look in the Classifieds on this site to see what is available. Many others will come in to narrow down what you might be interested in. I happen to have a 876 Wheel Horse Auto with a 36" deck (one of the 1st autos) that I use and is not for sale, but it is one of the 1st autos. This is an 8 hp Kohler with a 36" deck. You may be interested in a newer model then this. This is a 1966 8hp auto. The "Short Frame Square Hoods" are strong, everlasting, and excellent mowing tractors. There is a good 30 years newer Wheel Horse autos that will serve your needs. This one, with the deck, would go for around $400 to $700.

A C120 would be a nice one if one was available. Not to big or to small.

Have 8x10 snowmobile trailer that I bought new in 2007. Just finally had to re-deck it last Sunday. Original floor lasted since new despite trailer always sitting out. I like cause it's really lightweight. Also have 5x10 utility trailer I bought new at county fair 20yrs ago for $895. Gotten a lot of use outta it. Last summer I went thru it- stripped & painted, new lights/wiring, new hardware, new hubs. Considered replacing trailer but comparable new ones are almost $3k & definitely aren't built as good. Decided to put some $$ in it & get another 20yrs outta it. Fortunately in Ohio is pretty inexpensive to register a trailer.

I realize that this is not for everyone, but I have as much into this trailer with brand new tires, as a TSC 5x8 deluxe model costs. I’m not saying everyone needs this, but used with some TLC may bring a decent value vs cost.

Mine is 5x8 with drop down ramp. Originally bought for motorcycles... Really only good for one tractor...

A ramp gate adds wind resistance reducing fuel mileage but is so much better for loading and unloading that it is the way to go. Go ahead and buy the biggest trailer you can afford and have room to park, otherwise you will wish you had later on.

Today I finished off my spare M12 with some Kohler stickers from Redo Your Horse, and added a finishing touch on the 312, 308, and the workshop/basement.

We celebrate National Crepe Suzette Day each year on May 6. It’s a day to savor a delicious dish with an interesting story behind it. According to one version, it was a culinary treat accidentally created in 1895 by Henri Charpentier, then a 15-year-old assistant waiter working at Monte Carlo’s Cafe de Paris. Charpentier was cooking for Prince Edward of Wales and his distinguished guest — a French noble dame named Suzette. He inadvertently ruined a sauce for the crepes, but then realized he had made a tasty new dish. The prince decided to name it “Crepe Suzette.” Crepe Suzette is a French delicacy that consists of a crisp, thinly rolled, or folded pancake and a sauce made from caramelized sugar and butter, orange juice, and French liqueurs like Grand Marnier, and other flavored liqueurs like triple sec. The dish was named after a beautiful French girl, Suzette (as the story appears in the autobiography of Charpentier). But different stories abound regarding its origin.

True. Armature looks a little ruff, but not terrible. The grooves in it could use a good cleaning for sure.

Today I swapped the locations of the electric fuel pump and the fuel filter on the 414-8. I also got the tines off the tiller, and will order the seals now.

The federal and some state gasoline road use tax can be refunded for off road used gasoline. When I was running fishing and crabbing trips in Delaware and burning over 400 gallon/ year, I applied for these refunds and got around $050/ gallon back.

Welcome to RedSquare, the go-to for Wheel Horse decals is: https://redoyourhorse.com Terry will take good care of you, if there’s something he doesn’t have listed, reach out to him he can likely make one for you.

If you sand the runs out you will need to spray another coat or 2 of paint on the rim for it to look good. Read and respect the recoat time that is printed on the can, if you recoat "dry" paint too soon you may end up with a lifting issue. Lifting = your paint will start to wrinkle. If this happens you will need to strip the part down & start over. Recoat time can be 72hrs - 2 weeks. Note: you will need to scuff the whole part if you are going to repaint. Scotchbrite works great for this. The can may give you a recommended time between coats, 15 min, 30min, what ever. The best & most fool proof way is to touch the painted part. Pick a spot that will not be seen when assembled and touch it lightly. It should feel tacky but should not transfer paint to your finger. If you see paint on your finger, wait longer. No paint on your finger spray your next coat.

Sometimes the gear teeth will butt into each other when shifting back and forth and not engage keeping the lever from not moving all the way. I would have to let out the clutch pedal sometimes then push back down to spin the gears so they're in a different position. This won't help if the fork is bent or broken. It sure seems as though the PO had some kind of issue as well if the pin was replaced with a bolt.

Two things - if you used enamel to paint them, it takes more than a week for it to cure enough to be sanded. If you can push your fingernail into a run and it leaves a mark, it is too soft to sand. Best bet is either paint remover solvent or acetone with rags & elbow grease to remove it back to the original paint. An old trick from my Model Car building days - heat the rattle can before you use it in a pan of hot tap water. It heats the paint so it flashes off faster, redicing the chance of runs and raises the internal pressure to give a better spray. Heat the can between coats - be sure to wipe the can to remove water that can (will) drip on the work. Are your tires already mounted? I hope so, as tire mounting tool will rip up the paint on the lip.... the playing card trick on a deflated tire works great...

If you are using rattle cans, make several light coats. Holding the can further back from what you're painting and never stop moving while spraying. Different brand paints lay down very differently one to another. You'll have to test on another surface any time you change brands.

I have a trailer with tilt bed. Handy for loading mowers and host of other stuff. Plus the grandkids like to run back and forth as if it was a teeter totter.

Hello all, I'm a rookie out here.This is my first post, so please go easy on me. I am in search of a recommendation on what tractors I should be looking for. I'm thinking of something small with a 36 or 42 inch deck just for mowing. A hydrostat transmission and I'd be ok with a manual lift deck. Nothing fancy needed. I live in NH, mow about a 1/3 acre of mostly flat land. To be truthful, probably mow about once every 10 days. Lots of moss, not a great lawn. When I was young I'd mow this with a push mower, but am retired now and rather not. I should add I don't see a lot of tractors for sale in my area. I'm currently mowing with an Ariens 936 15 hp since about 1995. I've kept this mower running over the years, but it's starting to smoke, the muffler vibrates loose, and it's time for an upgrade. I love the look of the Wheel Horse tractors. I wish I was introduced to these back in the 90's. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or information you might be able to provide. I should add, I'm in no rush. I'd really like to find one that was kept undercover, not a fan of rust. Lastly, I don't own or have access to a trailer. Hoping to be able to purchase local in hopes that I could pay the seller to deliver. Worst case hire a transport company, being local shouldn't hurt as bad.

Between rain drops, I got er' done.

Welcome. Also retired and mowing my suburban lot with a my 1987 Wheelhorse 3-12-8. It has a 36 in rear discharge deck that does the job just fine.

Regular gas is around $2.90 to $3.00 here. 91 octane is less than a buck more. Non ethanol is 90 to 93 octane if we get it at a fuel station. Pricing varies around $1 to $1.50 more than regular 87 octane. Example: Merrill's in Waterboro. $2.86 vs $4.59. Having dealt with the evils of ethanol far too many times we WILL NOT put alcohol laced trash in ANY small engines here anymore. >>> Not even for short term or fast usage. <<< Between humidity and air temperature changes causing condensation we've has issues using ONE TANK of trash gas in our splitter. No more.

If you are going to use the tractor right away, I would not bother. Just let it burn up. Here is WI regular gas is at $2.89, non ethanol premium is $.80 more.

I believ That needs to be considered whenever comparing gas prices. Ethanol laced fuel will give less gas mileage and more taxes for the states to waste.

Right at $4.00 per gallon here. Expensive but worth it considering the alternative here in our humid environment.

Much appreciated Kev, but I’ve got that under control now

Similar to @SylvanLakeWH, mine is 5x8, unbraked with board sides but no ramp. Tare is ~300 lbs and rated for 1,990 gross. It can fit one round hood sideways at the front (ramped on from the side) plus one long frame (ramped on straight at the rear). I estimate that’s probably 1,100 or 1,200 lbs. I use a set of 1,000 lb. capacity folding aluminum ramps carried either on the trailer or in the tow vehicle. Brakes and your tow vehicle’s capacities (and licensing/insurance costs) are very relevant. My tow vehicle’s limit is 1,650 lbs (gross) for an unbraked trailer and up to 3,500 with brakes. My electrical connection, which includes optional hardware and software from the manufacturer to integrate with the car’s computer, includes both brake and power circuits. I usually recommend getting these parts of the tow package directly from your vehicle's manufacturer since the days of simply splicing into a brake or marker light wire to supply a trailer connection are pretty much gone. In my case, the vehicle’s computer recognizes that it has a trailer and adjusts a number of computer-driven features for safety and easier driving. Here in NY, trailers under 2,000 gross are a LOT cheaper to register and typically do not require inspections. (I stand envious of states that do not require small trailer registrations.)

Only 4 bumps and bruises on this video!

Those square cut gears have to be JUST RIGHT to mesh. I turn off the ignition, place the gear selector in first gear, and play around with the HI / LO lever while rocking the tractor forward or backward and when the sweet spot is found it will slide right in.

The odd shape of a rim makes it harder to paint. You have to look at the paint as it is sprayed to make sure you have just a hint of a wet edge as it lays down. I with the others on warming the can and spraying a mist/light tac first coat. Shake well means to shake the cans well. Regular Rustoleum can be unforgiving. 2x Rustoleum is a bit more forgiving. If you want your finish to be tough and UV resistant, a couple of light coats of Rustoleum Clear Enamel to finish will help. Even when I spray gun the cheap Majic Tractor Supply paint, I clear over it with a Rattle Can of clear. I put 2 light coats, 10 minutes apart. after the last coat of color.

Use several light coats instead of heavy coat. Your current issue is probably what to do with the runs. Let the paint cure for a couple weeks, sand the runs out, scuff the rest of the paint, then spray on a couple light coats. A quicker method would be to wire brush the paint off and start over. Good luck. Remember - you gain knowledge from your own mistakes and wisdom from others mistakes.

My advice on trailers is the same for building a garage or shed. Give careful serious slow thought to what you think you really need. And go bigger. If ya want Two Wheelhorses >> SIDE BY SIDE << you'll need more width. I believe @Sparky's trailer is 6 1/2 ft. Also. Very important. Check your local laws to see if the weight size gvw or whatever else is a determining factor in your taxes or registration fees.

I have a good used head coming in the mail

The top of the bed sides were bowed, bent, and the angle was not consistent so I spent a few hours getting them straightened out. I bought the metal for the bottom frame and ordered the sheet metal to replace the bad ends I had to cut out. I'm not ready for days of this type of work yet so I just do a little at a time. Hopefully I have some progress pictures in the next week or so.

The end that the brushes run on is the armature. The grooves on this should be cleaned out. An Exacto knife or a hack saw blade will work for this.

Two things jump out at me - looks like worn copper has gotten into the slots that deperate the commutator segments and are shorting out the adjacent set. those must be kept seperate. Remenber the positive & negative part?? What you have there is a dead spot... Turn (spin) the armature to be able to clean the copper surfaces where the brushes ride first.. Polish the shaft areas where the bushings are... Bill

I have to buy my boat fuel at the dock also. It's always at least $1.50 more per gallon. My boat is 39ft & weighs 18,000lbs so it's obviously not getting trailered to a fuel station. I'm feeding 2 big block Chevrolet engines. Fuel consumption is 1.6-2.0 gallons per mile! Not miles per gallon! Fuel capacity is 325 gallons. Typically an afternoon out on the water costs about $125-200. Jet A is almost $5/gallon presently at my local airport. My Beechcraft Bonanza consumes approximately 12gallons per hour at cruse speed of 185mph & fuel capacity is 75gallons. My girlfriends family lives in southern Ohio. It's a 3hr drive by car or about 45min-1hr flight. That's about $150 in fuel costs. I need less expensive hobbies. 🙄 Between boat & plane fuel a few gallons of ethanol free is nothing. I use it in all yard equipment, motorcycles, snowmobiles, & of course Wheel Horses.

That tractors name is Christen. She tried to hert me , did a wheelie up a hill and rolled over on me, 3weeks in the hospital. Week later tried to buck the mrs, did a wheelie though the garden, mowed a row green beans. So I added some weight, can add or remove the weights

Like a chipper?

Chiming in to hear others opinions. I would believe it would do just fine providing that the rake is as close to the tractor as possible. The farther behind the tractor, the more stress there will be on the hitch.

Good point. Going to drain the rest of the regular gas from my sediment bowl tomorrow before adding the non ethanol

And if that doesn't work get a REALY BIG HAMMER.

Periodically check while painting for accumulation around the nozzle. That will make spatters every time.

Lots of friendly help here and a little kidding around. sometimes were like little children! This thread has great pictures of the internal hilo shift mechanism parts. The hilo shift fork and fingers are a known weak point and they can bend or break. But before you decide you have to dissemble it, try this: Jack the rear of the tractor up enough so both wheels are off the ground. With the weight off the drivee components try to move the hilo shifter. you might try gently rocking the rear wheels while you try to move the shifter. Have you checked to see if the transmission has water in the oil? If the rubber shifter boot on the gear shifter is in bad condition moisture/water can run down the shaft and get in the transmission. The hilo shift forks are known to get rusted and stick or be hard to move due to rust. if your transmission oil is milky looking it has water in it. Sometimes you can drain the oil, refill with diesel or kerosene. Then with the rear on jack stands run the tractor through all gears multiple times and try to move the hilo multiple times. Let us know what you oil look like and we can go from there.

Sometimes, the correct tool is actually a BFH

This is a forgotten file of videos, that I never edited. I finally released it today.

This was my Dad's, he just bolted some 2x4 pieces to the seat and the fender.