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Progress is slow with the weather in the 70's one day, 30's the next then repeating the pattern. I did manage to get the dash housing painted. Rattle canned with the Squonk touch. Final wet coat of red and immediately a wet coat of gloss clear. It came out great and the dry time was much shorter. I already had the dash dolled up. The PTO needed some loving. Both bearing were good. I didn't want to try and remove the needle bearing so I closed up the end and flooded it with mineral spirits. It cleaned up great. Greased it up and installed a new seal, put the outer bearing back in and it's good to go for another 47 years. Covered up the tires, a light sanding and rattle can primed the wheels. The color coat of custom mixed sorta almond linen beige will be done with a sprayer so I gotta wait on the weather. Then it will be new sealed bearings.

National One Cent Day, which honors a major point in the establishment of the American currency, is observed on April 1. The story begins in the times of Benjamin Franklin all the way to Abraham Lincoln. Did you know, the one-cent coin used to be called the Flowing Hair dollar because of the image of the Statue of Liberty on it? Back in 1787, the U.S. issued the first one-cent coin, designed by Benjamin Franklin. On one side, the coin read “Mind Your Business”, and on the other side, “We Are One”. Unlike today’s one-cent coins, Franklin’s design was made entirely of copper and was also bigger. It went on to be called the Fugio cent or the Franklin cent. These coins were handcrafted and minted by workers without the use of machines. But in 1792, when the United States Mint was established, a proposal for a new coin design was submitted. By 1793, on April 1, the new one-cent coin was introduced into the market. These new coins were a symbol of the Statue of Liberty. One side depicted an image of a lady with flowing hair, and the other side showed 13 chains representing the 13 colonies. As years went by, the coin’s size was reduced to make it easier to handle. The coin went on to see several other design changes, from an eagle wreath and the head of an American Indian to President Lincoln’s face. The metals it was made from also changed from being 100% copper to being 97.5% zinc and only 2.5% copper. So, there you have it. While a one-cent coin can make you feel rich or poor depending on the context, one thing is for sure, and that is people have been celebrating the day to remember the coin’s rich history and its importance in the U.S.A.’s development. The cost of producing coins varies significantly depending on the denomination and the materials used. For example, in the United States, it costs more than the face value to circulate certain coins like the penny and nickel. According to a 2023-dated report from the United States Mint, producing a single penny costs about 3.07 cents, while a nickel costs around 11.54 cents. Larger denominations, such as dimes and quarters, are more cost-effective to produce relative to their face value. The United States Mint and other national mints continuously evaluate these costs to balance production efficiency with economic viability. However, not all mints release their production costs. The Canadian Government announced it would phase out the penny from Canada's coinage system, February 4, 2013 was set as the date after which the Royal Canadian Mint will no longer distribute pennies. Pennies are still legal tender in Canada but have been disappearing from circulation. It took the United States an additional dozen years to figure this out but in February of 2025 our 47th President ordered the Treasury Department to stop minting new pennies. The existing ones will remain in circulation and be legal tender for financial transactions.

A buddy welded up the fuel tank/fender support rails in the 520-8. Both sides cracked.

All i know is if Lincoln is bald ... your tires are shot @Achto s dad used to say it was cheaper to drill a hole in a quarter than run to town for a washer ...

Got optimistic & took snowplow off then installed mower deck. Lawn service already fertilized last week so grass is starting to grow. Also changed oil & greased all fittings.

The key here is "intent to render it unfit for reissue"... no problem, the "intent" was to reissue it at a higher value as a washer... or in the case of the kids on the rr tracks, a very valuable souvenir secured at great risk...

Welcome here anytime. Plenty of huge camper parking and cowboy 🤠 coffee ☕️

Give gray a try (wheel horse 3D by graystone) one of are vendors . Maybe he can make one on 3d printer.

Getting the last section done. Started the pile on fire, filled the trailer and threw that on the pile of coals that was left, and that all is burned up now as well.

I am not sure if the truth of any of this. April first and all I do use Pennies for washers on batteries and any place that high current connects. I figure they can catch me and find me three cents per defacement

Cleaned up the C81 sluggish starter and got it working good. I did have to put a .010 shim under the front bolt. Brushes were good. Used a drill to turn the armature and cleaned the commutator with a stone.

cheaper to use a penny for a small flat washer?

Thanks!!! Maybe @Pullstart can pick it up on the way to the Big Show... only like 1000 miles off route... he can swing by after he's done in North Dakota and Arizona...

What about hanging it on the front? It's not gonna care how long the hoses are. I've got a pump like Dan's if you want to do a set up like his. I was gonna drive it off the flywheel side like his and copy his bracket.

How about a Wisconson V4? Maybe a Mazda Wankel?

Thanks guys! Means a lot to me. We'll see once I get the rest of the floor up, if I can replace the one beam without help. I got some ideas so we will see how it goes. Its hard to tell from the photo but the end of the beam is broken off and they bolted a piece of metal that they actually cleverly welded but it needs replaced.

That post was intended as "tongue in cheek”, though ya never know when someone might not like it, right? 😄

Would that include the pennies we all those other kids put on train tracks so they would become flattened?

And when some one takes it apart in 50 years the will be amazed at the penney!

After seeing @Achto's awesome 68 Raider and seeing his hydraulic lift I started thinking of how to get hydraulic lift on the gear drive tractors. Of course there is the traditional belt driven pump, a spool, and cylinder. Then there is the electric actuators which seem to not perform well from what I have seen. So the third option is the one I am considering currently is a electric pump like what would be on a dump trailer. I realize it's a decent load to put on the battery and definitely will need the 22nf battery not a U1 battery. That said for the short amount of time it's actually running I think the system could handle it. The one pump I am looking at now is 6 inches by 6 inches and 18 inches long, 4 qaurt reservoir. Still fairly big but I can put it nearly anywhere as long as its reasonable run of hoses to the hydraulic cylinder. I can do some more searching to try to find a smaller one, as the cylinder size is going to be so small it doesn't need much reservoir. Or since it's a steel reservoir tank maybe cut it down and make it smaller, to reduce the length.

Pedigree vs pedicure... (I need both...!)

So.. I know you threw around some ideas of what to do as far as powerplant have you made up your mind on that yet? The Chevy V8 would be awesome

So I know this technique for checking wires. You need two guys and a 2x4. One guy needs to not be afraid of getting shocked, the other needs to not have issues with hitting the first guy with a 2x4. Also, neither can have a pace-maker.

So, I stop by @Pullstart's Plow Day Saturday to get one of his tractors dirty and stuck, and this jumps into my trailer with a bunch of extra tie rods that don't fit, belt guards that don't fit (imported from Wisconsin by @WHX?? with a more than able assist from @Achto who, more importantly, brought cheese curds!) hand tight lug bolts and a slew of inappropriate cuss words about the virtues of my new little filly from said belt guard guy... Seems this was once a fine young , fully intact and owned by @Lil’ Pullstart, who for reasons unknown, sold it to pullstart, who proceeded to disembowel it for other projects... It was restored to roller status with a manual 3speed of unknown origins, seat fender tool box from an unsuspecting that thought pullstart was taking it on a date, and a swift kick in the rear end... Here's where I enter the picture... looking for a fine roller specimen to repower for fun, this is the best to be had north of the big show, apparently... So I get her on consignment to "have fun" and then "at some point" it goes back to pullstart stables for an unknown future... only rules: save all the parts and NO PAINT... The name? Thought you'd never ask... WHAMMC3PO_ - Wheel Horse Auto Manual Mutant Consignment 3 PO_. 3 is for the manual transmission and PO_ is what @WHX?? named it...with ample additional edited descriptive verbiage , edited of course for little ears... No relation to any droid in Star Wars and yes Luke, Kevin is it's father... More to come, maybe... Oh, this was the used tractor salesman I got it from...

Back at my tree removal project. Monday after work I spent about 1.5hrs splitting some of the wood that was piled in the drive way and added it to the existing pile. Work has us on 4 tens with a rotating day off, today was my day off so I decided to reclaim my parking spots. This was the scene that I had to start with this morning. Ran the splitter until I had a trailer full. Not until the wood was cleaned up, Unloaded and stacked this first load. On to the second load for today. My brother took some wood & I told him where to put any brush that he accumulated, well instead he drug it to the front lawn of my neighbors yard. Not happy, but oh well. Figured I better clean it up before the neighbor got upset. Cleaned that pile up and also raked up as much saw dust as I could out of my yard. Unloaded that mess at my nephews place and moved back to splitting up more of the pile that was blocking my parking spots. Low and behold, I was able to fill the trailer once again. Load number 3 for today. When this load was finished I was just out of "me" for the day, so it got parked and unhooked but not unloaded. Being a 1 man show today, I was happy to accomplish my goal and regain the parking spots for my 3 vehicles. @WHX?? took one trailer load off from this tree, my brother took 1 load, and I took 2 loads today. I'm guessing that there are 2 more loads on this pile that is already split. More than likely 3 to 4 more loads still laying in my neighbors yard, and I need to get equipment to carve up the 60"+ across trunk. Hopefully I can put a big dent in what is laying in my neighbors yard this weekend.

Really enjoying this thread. Great progress!

Looking good!!! Man that's a lot of work!!!

Might be easier to add a belt brake like Wheel Horse put on the 300 series. They work with out a belt guard and belt guides.

And if you can't find someone to be the first guy... There is a device that puts a tone on the wire, and you can follow the wire with a special receiver. The one I have is called a "wire finder". It has limitations if the wire gets too far from the receiver, but it may be easier ghan finding the "first guy". BTW they're also known as wire tracers. The jungle site has them.

Probably not just water Calcium Chloride There should be a special place in Hell for people who put Calcium Chloride in tires...That maybe why there is so much rust on your wheels. Getting tires of wheels that have been filled can be a really fun experience then turn out to be he wheel is toast. I might run it till they fall apart, mean time save up for good used rims and new rubber...

Yep all good!

As for feathering, adding a pressure relief valve would permit running the pump while not moving the cylinder but I know most dump and plow controls have the pump on/off integrated directly into the lift/drop or left/right control lever. @ri702bill is nearing the end of adding an engage/disengage “clutch" to his 702-mounted (?) HY. His thinking is to have it not loading through engine or getting wear and tear while starting and doing tasks where the lift isn’t important. A bit premature to share this concept - need to work out the details. @Handy Don had suggested utilizing an electric clutch - I chose another route...

Rest Easy @Handy Don, no currency is getting rendered unfit by me! LOL Just was making a flat washer cost analogy.

daffodils are blowing and ramps are coming up in the woods.

Gave up scary shows, movies, and books years ago. Everyday life provides adequate scariness for this old guy.

I’ve looked at units intended for small dump trucks and for snowplows at flea markets e.g. Zagray. The overall size (big and cumbersome) and high current requirement put me off. The pump volume and pressure were plenty adequate though I’m not sure how “featherable” the flow would be. The HY-1 & HY-2 units from the mid-60s WHs are belt powered and had a “reservoir” built in. A key part of a reservoir’s job is to handle the difference in a cylinder's internal fluid volume between having its rod fully retracted vs. fully extended. It also must include a means to handle thermal expansion.

I too have some lead. Not a lot, but this discussion brings up and idea. Using a form of some kind to cast a concrete weight simply add the solid lead into the middle of the pour. Makes use of its weight without the melting of it.

Another option would be to look on for a "PARTS" saw of the same model. Quite often people put broken stuff up for sale for psrts.

No, that won't help your brake pedal issue. That's for the parking brake and a suitable replacement from the hardware store will work. Somewhere along the way the pedal linkage is messed up and is probably an easy fix. First, make sure the return spring #48 is correct. Use the specified spring. I've never seen a hardware store replacement for that one that's suitable. P/N 108035. After that I can't really help you without seeing it but as I said it's probably simple. On a related note, it looks like you have a damper on the clutch. Item #53 on the drawing. That will give you headaches. The 108035 spring alone has worked fine for decades and still does today.

That's definitely a possibility to hang it off the front I would prefer to make it a neat install but could build a box for it. Honestly I don't even need a hydraulic lift for myself, its more so other people who might struggle with manual lift can use it. Well that said it would be nice for the snowblower that sucker is heavy!!

Too bad you're so far away. I have a 50s vintage Kohler flat twin cylinder I'd donate for the cause... It's a monstrous engine though.

The correct gaurd & solid mounts should make it plug & play...

I think the main issue you're having is it has the wrong belt guard on it. The PO used a newer C-Series style guard on it, (note the flare at the end). It's too short. The Raider guard goes all the way BEHIND the PTO all the way to the drive pulley...

Wonder if it could be made to fit under the rear fenders in the "toolbox"? Or modify the toolbox to make it fit...

Are you volunteering to be the first guy?!

Haven't had the chance... Need to verify trans first, then on to power.

I put a marine primer bulb on my C-105 to help with starting. A couple squeezes and it fires right up... just a thought...

Plenty of room under the hood!