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I decided to take and restore the two 8” plows I had, fun projects to keep the winter months moving along. To my surprise, every bolt came out without a problem! Sandblasted, epoxy primed, and painted they came out pretty good!

Coin collectors pay an arm and a leg for double struck coins, might be able to find some stupid money for this plow.

Picked this poor RJ several weeks ago. It was severely neglected. Luckily I had almost all parts needed to bring it back to life. Shout out to Keith Jones for the helpful hints on using a fine wire brush to get the patina to look good. Here is a couple pictures of before and after. Also my YouTube videos of being brought back to life Part 1 Part 2

They are going on the backs of the RJs for show, I have a briny all polished up and ready for the Charger 12.

National Automatic Door Day is celebrated on March 19 every year. Doors are the (safe and entertaining) gateway to all sorts of places, so it’s only fitting that we celebrate the mighty automatic door on this day. As the name signifies, this day is to celebrate the automated doorways that guard the entrance to multiple places — hospitals, buildings and malls being some of them. Another aim of this day — unite manufacturers and others across the automatic door industry. The Ancient Greeks didn’t just give us the Olympics — they also gifted the world with automatic doors. At least this is what historians believe. According to them, Greek mathematician and engineer Heron of Alexandria wrote about an automatic door-adjacent mechanism that was used to open up temple gates sometime around the 1st century A.D. According to descriptions in Heron’s books — named “Pneumatica” — the mechanism used heat from fires to build pressure in brass vessels. This pressure forced water from one container into an adjacent one, simultaneously tugging on attached ropes and pulleys to open up the temple doors to which this whole contraption was attached, that too just in time for prayers. Heron also apparently used this mechanism to open up city gates. Quite a while later — in the 17th century, to be exact — Emperor Yang of Sui constructed a foot sensor-activated automatic door in the royal library, according to historian Joseph Needham’s book, “Science and Civilization in China,” written in 1986. It was only in the 20th century that the world got its first real automatic doors. This invention began with American engineers Horace Raymond and Sheldon Roby, who designed an automatic door in 1931. This device was later installed in Wilcox’s Pier Restaurant in Connecticut, U.S., and would open for waiters carrying plates of food and drink. Still, the world recognizes American engineers Dee Horton and Lew Hewitt as the brains behind today’s automatic doors. Their invention, created in 1954, used sensors hidden inside mats on the floor to ‘tell’ the doors someone was about to enter, and voila! The doors would open automatically. By 1960, these doors had entered the commercial market and eventually became more and more common. Large banks, hotels, and various public buildings began using automatic doors. Innovation marked the next few decades — motion sensors were invented, low-energy doors came around, access doors now took into account access for disabled people, and automatic doors went global. Automatic doors are everywhere around us now, opening and closing to safely permit or eject people from various buildings.

I think i mentioned in another thread that we are looking at fitting an air source heat pump to the house, replacing our current gas boiler. We got our quote today which looks good so we are going ahead. The Gubmint are giving a £7,500 grant to households that qualify and thats over half the installation cost. So hopefully in a couple of weeks we will be having plumbers and electricians descend on us to remove the boiler and fit the heat pump. We've also decided to swap around a couple of bedrooms to make a master bedroom with walk in wardrobe for us. So I'm busy with the woodwork to get the project started. Building a new section of floor over a previous underfloor access was the first job. Next is building a small section of stud wall to create a door frame, turning what was an open arch into a proper doorway. We are looking at having a company build us some fitted wardrobe units and a bed head with shelving. Might as well get all the mess out of the way in one go.

Found another plate 1934 this time it looks like it might be a trailer plate.

As noted by others, the C-161 has sundstrand model 90-1173---with an external brake drum. Aside from that, the Sundstrand Piston-to-piston models 90-1136, 1137, 1140, 1172, 1173 are internally near identical. I have successfully rebuilt MANY of them and have made available a FREE download of the overhaul process. The sundstrand Hydro-gear 90-2046 is also an easy rebuild...as is the GT-14 model 90-2062. There are also gasket and O-ring kits available via Red Sq vendors. SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf SUNDSTRAND-Piston-Piston-PUMP-MOTOR-Refurb.pdf

Hauled this pile outa the woods this afternoon with the 308. Some of them big lunkers were right at my limit for pickin up!

Use a ****** block pulley instead of direct cable to the concrete block. It might be slower but will certainly make lifting it easier. Or by using block and tackle you could do it by hand with a rope. HAAA! Guess you can't use the word sn atch on here

We have had a brief stretch of unreasonably nice weather so I got a little spring fever...... Sharpened blades & greased mower for the 654. Ready to install. Im not taking snow blade off just yet.

I'm partial to the E-tank method as well. For my power supply, I grabbed an old Lenovo laptop power supply I had kicking around. It was rated at 20V 10A. I cut the DC plug off of it and spliced on a battery tender quick disconnect. That gives me plenty of options for quickly connecting and disconnecting ring terminals or the small spring loaded battery clamps. I tend to pressure wash my parts first, then drop them in the tank. It always takes off like a handful of alkaseltzer tablets. I knew it would handle rust, but it surprises me how well it does with removing old paint as well. It will typically lift the paint and eat all the rust in a matter of a day or 2. Then I clean the parts and put them on a shelf with the intent to prime them. I never get around to it in time and they all collect surface rust. Then I repeat.

I tend to reuse all fasteners that are in good condition. In my opinion the American Made hardware from the 1960s is far superior to the foreign made stuff you buy today.

Picked up a load of horse manure for the garden. RIP Jay.

The following video has a lot of great information on what appears to be accurate and modern thinking and correcting the misinformation we've been given for about five decades. I encourage all of you to watch it. Multiple times.

I tossed a few things in the dump trailer and headed off to the recycling yard. It hurt to push the brake pedal! I must say, it hurt a little to send this one off. It was free to me, and I replaced the engine once or twice, but my kids learned to drive a “tractor” on this old thing.

In Germany, “calories” are listed on packaging as energy.

It’s all being given away…

There are really only a couple major internal differences. Hydro gear vs piston to piston and physical brake... There is also a gearing difference on GT 14s otherwise it is usually the location of motion control shaft, differences in the slider and motion control handle set up, w-w/o lift etc...

Last two runs of the 10 pinion was a early 1973 Raider 12 Model 1-0350 and a 1973 14 HP no name Model 1-0340 according to the list I have.

They look great! If you plan to use them, the first thing you’ll likely want to do is grind off the paint on the plow surfaces, and wipe a little grease on them to keep rust at bay. Bare, shiny plows work better than painted ones.

They both have a Sundstrand. The 161 might have a drum for the brake. A 160 will not.

Time to split that up, if you're keeping it for burning.

@peter lena I do already use only non-ethanol gas in all my small engine stuff and don't have any issues with clogging or starting after they sit a while. I only use stabil for stuff that sits a lot especially during winter like the generator and the z-turn That is a good idea about running some steel line, I used rubber the whole way.

No you are right, I didn't mention that before. The deadline is from my wife, she wants to use it for a garage/barn sale.

Today’s project I fixed some reversed hood hinges and got ready for Spring. The first time I redid my 312, I put the hinges for the hood on backwards. After a clean out of the deck, and greasing the pivot points it was ready for Spring. The decals are coming Thursday/Friday then the 312 will be done for now.

@AlexR anything I suggest is what I have tried , experimented with , rarely have a one and done , elimination of an issue , that fuel issue , was easy , a repetitive problem , like fuel hose break down , has to be eliminated first , every visible point , has to stay clean / clear , STA BIL fuel storage additive , has done it for me , no debris any ware , my stuff starts right up after long sitting , related clear fuel filter is clean , realise this is an area of contention , I DO NOT HAVE TO WIN , have also eliminated long runs of rubber hose , with steel brake line , leaving only the tank / carb areas , with hose and filter . my stuff starts up with zero smoke or hesitation , had 4 small engines , tractors / generator , that were changed over , no fuel issues at all . also my views of mechanical repair are different , millwrighting does that to you , swiss lewa gear pumps , pete

I'm redoing a K181 right now. I got new valves and for the first time doing these the intake valve had too much lash clearance right out of the package. Usually I always have to trim the stem end. It's head diameter and overall length were correct. The only thing I figured was the valve face needed to be cut .010". I'm thinking great, I'm going to have to take it to a machine shop and it will be days or weeks until they can "get to it" I called a shop 10 miles away. I know the owner died a few years back and his son took it over but I had no idea if they were even open any more. I called and left a message. He calls me back about a half hour later and says bring the engine and everything right over. I can do it while you wait. So he cut the face and set the lash on both valves. Cost me $20 cash for "lunch money"

grab a battery out of one of your WHs. Hook it up to the E-Tank then put the charger on the battery

The Craftsman, Rylee bought a while back for $50 or less and it had some brake issue. I told her someday you’ll be able to sell the engine alone for way more than that. Last year one of her wrestling coaches gave (me) us a newer Husky with the same Briggs mill with low oil and a broken rod. She swapped the engine and sold it for $800! She put the money to vehicle use, worth her investment and some wrenching time! The Simplicity, it was worn in every aspect, the engine burned a ton of oil, and with the couple two-tree Horses around, it’s been in the weeds for about 8 years.

Happy Birthday @Cee245, we are glad you were born.

You may wish to have a second battery in parallel to double the amps. Had to do this on my old Jeep Pickup for plowing. Electric (starter motor) ran the pump tp lift, plowing at night and the heater / defroster on necessitated it. Lift is tough, lower is easy...

Sprays on and dries leaving a thin coat that protects and doesn't attract dust. Kinda like paint but it's not permanent like paint

I am in FL and use paste wax "MINWAX" on my machinery. Table saw etc. Leaves a nice coating to keep rust at bay. Same situation with humidity here.

I proceeded to come home, and do active cleaning in the shop. I re-hung the half RJ-58 that was taken down for the rack install, cut and installed two shelves’worth of hardwood, then filled the racks. There are two GM transfer cases on the top shelf via ladder, one of the new stoves we purchased at an estate sale was hoisted up to the bottom shelf, then I relied on the hilo to put up the remaining wood stoves. Moving the old press was no easy feat either. Before: After:

So, Santa was nice enough to drop off a small plasma cutter for Moo-Wah back at Christmas.... my first attempt with said macine didn't go so well (see the tip in the pic lol). Air pressure was way off but once I got that figured out the process was fun n easy. Cut the slope & then lots of grinding. tomorrow it's Diamond Plate pieces & hopefully some welding. Definitely headed for Ye Ol; Neighborhood Machine Shop tomorrow to sandblast the Rimz so I can repaint them. Should be able to get quite a bit done tomorrow. Weather people say blizzrd cornditions for Wednesday with as much as 9" possible. It's been unseasonably warm the past couple weeks so the snow will just make for a temporary mess. But I will get try the blade out finally.... Sometimes progress is slow but there is finally some progress. more pics to enjoy.....

please. 701 has double pulley on flywheel, and a double wide s/g belt cover. Has a hood with no vents in front. Rear fenders have support brackets that come up at 45 degree angle from seat spring.

Ok..... So I really dislike tha plastic fender that Cyclops came with.... So Much in fact that I Started making a new 1.I made the base from the lid of a Brinkman Smoker I no longer need as We have a much Better Unit on the patio. The rest of it will be fabricated from this sheet of Diamond Plate Steel I aquired for free many years ago.After 9 hours of using a various sized "Swing Wrenches" (hammers), C clamps, vise grips, an air hammer, unistrut & the tongue of my trailer I got the basic shape & the angles are good. so tomorrow get out the plasma cutter & welder to make this thing happen. Also the scAmazombie Delivery guy dropped a box at the door. New front tires for Cyclops. So gonna have to do some sandblasting n painting for this occasion.That & I can hardly wait to see how Cool it's gonna look with these way Cool Stamped Chrome Hub Caps all the way around !! Got the Angles just right & need to cut the slope in yet.probably have some more hammereringing to do in order to flatten things but It's gonna work Nicely. Gonna Have to get a New seat for the New Fender.... & Definitely gonna have a cup holder built in too. Very pleased with the progress of late. Choochin' Right Along.... should be 7 pix for your enjoyment. Edit: Also Need to cut 3 larger Holes for the Gas cap, Transmission Oil Dipstick & the seat safety switch along with the mounting holes for bolts & a set of seat brackets.... Ok I am tired .... time for bed.

Doesn’t the tractor have an ammeter on it? An ammeter isn’t strictly necessary--later WHs replaced it with a voltmeter, anyway. I tend to like having extra instrumentation to see the details and an ammeter provides more specific (and useful) information. 😁 If you can borrow one, you are looking for something that’ll register the range of -20 to +20 amps at 50 volts. It gets wired in series between the S/G “G” terminal and the “B" terminal on the ignition switch. (Note: many modern ammeter testers use a clamp-around method to measure the current flow in a wire. Since this is DC, that’ll work fine as long as the meter is on the correct wire and has the needed range setting.) It is easy to chase your tail and start parts swapping with electrical issues by not going step by step in a logical order.

The jungle site has DC power supplies in the $40-50 range. Lots of folks on the E-tank group on FB use them. Easier to dial in and won't wear out a charger or batteries. I need to get one myself.

Eastwood "Diamond Clear" is the most durable clear I have ever used, a bit pricy but you get what you pay for. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-diamond-clear-dtm-and-painted-surfaces-aerosol.html

Another choice is this stuff. It’ll remove an entire plane!

Just to get us back on topic… Here’s an oldie but goodie!

We spent a couple hours working on cutting advantech and osb for walls in the new basement apartment.

The years that it took for those beams to sag, don't expect them to lay back down over night. Kinda like how it works with rust.

Got another couple hours in on the barn today. Getting pretty good at getting beams in myself. And man it lifted it all up quite a bit even lifted one of the beams out of the notch on the sidewall beam. I am not yet done with the whole splice thing there are some spax 1/4" 8" long lags in there with the strapping too. I will add a couple boards across the whole splice to sandwich it all together You can see by how much the bolts are sticking up how much the beams came up. This is the beam that lifted out of the notch. All this floor decking lifted up too. Floor is looking a lot more level, there will be some shimming to do I am sure.

Did another couple hours of work done today got scrap wood back to the burn pile and cleaned up more inside the barn. This is my pile of barn wood out behind the barn. And I need to block up a couple beams under the barn to get these 2x12's off. It looks like they needed clearance to get a skidsteer or something under the barn so cut out a support beam and added these 2x12's and bolted the beams to it.