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Sleep escapes many people throughout the night so if you need a little shut-eye today, even while in public, it’s totally fine because it’s National Public Sleeping Day, on February 28. Yes, if you feel like you’re going to nod off on that park bench or at the beach, no one will think poorly of you. It’s actually what we are all called to do today, so grab a pillow and be prepared for that magical moment when you can doze off in public. While no one has claimed to be the founder of National Public Sleeping Day, whoever it was, was clearly onto something. Maybe they had seen so many of their fellow Americans asleep in public, they felt we all needed to be given a free pass for just one day. If you take a few moments to think of all the times you’ve fallen asleep in public, you’ll realize it is not at all a rare occurrence! The key for today is preparation. If you want to be an overt public sleeper, a sleeping bag will get the job done. If you are still a little uncomfortable about sleeping in public, you’ll want some sunglasses, a hat, or a newspaper. Of course, you can always point to this article as your permission to indulge in some public sleeping but in the event that you are at work and your boss walks in while your head is down, let the first word you say be “Amen.”

Hard to believe a week ago the temps were below freezing. Highs in the 50s this week thawed the ground enough to start plowing today.

Many of you have seen the wooden horse and received a smaller version. After 10 years of weather, mine needed major repair. The wood was starting to delaminate and nearly all the black lettering and paint had disappeared. The red was still OK. After some regluing and painting, it's back in the wall.

Mom and I made a trip from south Missouri to north Missouri-more than 6 hours of driving for me. We delivered the 500 lbs of fescue grass seed we will be sowing once the water ways are completed. We, along with my brother, burned a brush pile and began tearing out some fencing that is not needed. We talked with an adjoining neighbor about the abandoned rail road right of way that I have written about elsewhere. I think the highlight for mom was to get to see the recently purchased (2014-100 hp) Kubota tractor. Mom even got to drive it. Not too bad when you consider this 89 years old woman was in the hospital and nursing home rehab three months a little over a year ago following a botched biopsy.

Put a electric lift on my 1056. I only use this tractor for plowing so no idea if it would clear with a deck. Made a bracket that bolts to the frame/transaxle and the other end bolts right to the lower part of the rockshaft. Wired it up and it works great! its a bit slower than I would like says its 14mm/sec but still a reasonable speed. The cylinder can lift 265lbs and has no problem lifting my 48'' blade.

You southern folk!!

As you know I picked up that Bolens at an estate sale few weeks ago for 50 bucks. Got it running and have sold it. At the sale there was also a International Harvester Cub Cadet 109 for sale that I did not buy as the asking price was more then I was willing to spend. The lady running the sale called me the other day to tell me the Cub did not sell and asked if I was interested in it. Cub was in the barn. She said it wouldn't start. I bought the Bolens not starting and it was outside. So we worked out a deal and I went to pick it up today. Got it pretty cheap but not as cheap as I got the Bolens. The Cub had a deck attached and also a second one that appears to be solid but incomplete. It also came with the owners manual and a very nice Service Manual in a 3 ring binder. So I use my Snowco trailer for the second time now and get it home. Seems to be in ok shape. I notice some issues right away but a put some gas in it, charged the battery. Turned the key and it's purring like a kitten. Fired right up. I see some things I need to address but mostly issues with the deck and how the deck carriage locks into place. That being said it's running and driving. Saved from being scraped. Couple years back I had the 108 model. The 109 is same only it's hydro driven. These old IH Cubs are built like tanks. Hopefully find a new home for it soon. Let me know if anyone has had or have one. Noticed it didn't have headlights, were they an option ? This one has the cigarette lighter that still works. First pick is it in the barn. I thought because of all the green grass clippings all over it that it must have been running recently. 20250227_132803.mp4

Had a flock of about 30 robins out in the yard.

The original 502 with a plow!!

Bring it on! Great here in Indiana too! ut I had a good sunset onTuesday leaving Florida! B

@Ed Kennell 10% off coupon this weekend at HF... I was there earlier today and saw big stacks of their red buckets... Cuz... Your gonna need a bigger bucket...

The robotics team programmer was building the automatic climb program for the robot. After getting the operation sequence we needed figured out, he got position encoder readings that he needed for all of the devices involved and finished his code. Part of the code is setting a latch to make sure the robot ends up in the climb position at the end of the climb. The climber storage position is past where the latch is needed to hold the robot in the up position, so the latch needs to be set after the climber is extended out to the pick up position. Anyhow, the programmer tested the program - except he forgot to put the latch in the clear position to allow the climber to rotate out into the pick up position. the motors started up, the climber moved, the latch engaged stopping the climber, but the motors kept running until a 'pop' sounded off and the climber arm fell back into its storage position. Here is a picture of what made the 'pop': That twisted piece between the gears is a piece of 6061 T6 hex aluminum shafting. The space between the gears is about 1/2". The shaft twisted about 60 degrees before shearing into 2 pieces. We are running this thing on two Talon 60 brushless motors that are a little smaller than fist size. Overall gear reduction between the motors and the climb are is 198:1. The gearbox has 5 stages 5:1, 3 stages of 3:1, then a final chain drive of 1.4:1. The shaft that twisted apart was on the 2nd 3:1 stage. This stage has the last aluminum shaft. The next 2 stages are using 1/2" hex steel shafts. Guess you could say that the climber has been pre-disastered. The repair did not take very long, and we are now working on our list of spares that we should take to our competitions. We are planning on taking a spare climber gear box, but now we are going to throw a couple of extra shafts in. I'll have to suggest to the climber team and programmer that we install some sort of switch to tell us where the latch is, and not let the climber run if the latch is in the wrong spot at the wrong time. One of the students commented that we should replace that shaft with a steel one. I quickly pointed out that the aluminum shaft that failed acted like a mechanical fuse and prevented further damage, so replace it with another aluminum shaft.

Well I got this far today. I'll finish up in the next day or two. So far so good.

This just in... ! First time in RS history - an @ebinmaine thread has gone off topic!!!!

Went to an auction today and saved a ton of abandoned horse parts that would have gone to scrap. I need only about 2% of these and all the rest is for sale. Anyone want all f it make an offer.

I’d start by soaking the trunnion and the threaded rod so you can adjust it. If you have a torch to heat it, even better.

Tomorrow I'm planning on working outside all day. Sunday looks like dodging rain drops.

Just watched the weather. We might get 4-5" then hit the 50's

Ok gentleman, we have pretty blue spark now! 😃 I don't know what was on those point contacts but it took some cleaning with crocus cloth to get them to work! Never had to go that far in past experiences. One choke and she fired up and idled like champ. Shout out to Brian of K & B Wheel Horse Parts for building me a great lil Carter! And thanks to all who chimed in with help throughout! Now just awaiting my steering pins to tighten up the steering a bit. Wheeeeeeew...

Yep, I've been wearing Levi's, almost exclusively, for a good 50 years. One thing the are LOUSY for is detailing vehicles. The very rivets that they are famous for do not mix well with vehicle finishes.

200w.webp

That shifter hole is more than enough. An average mouse only needs a dime sized entrance.

The 782 is the only IH built one, the other two are MTD built. The 782 actually has international harvester on the tag while the other two are just Cub Cadet.

@Achto ??? I would say no just get it started strait and plenty of cutting oil.

The Bluebirds are getting feisty. Good thing there is too much snow to get the pine needles for the nest or they would be building!

They swap out easy. Along with the top of the hoodstand, you will also need the corresponding hinges. I have a blackhood on a 520 and a c81 hood on a 312. The only oddity was the 520 because the hoodstand is different, but I just added the "mid" section from a spare hoodstand.

A rich mixture is easier to fire than a lean one. Weak spark will need more fuel to fire.

Sorry post above is a piston to piston sundstrand, you have a Hydrogear . I'll see if I can get a better picture.

If this is only a one time deal, you could buy threaded rod from places like Bolt Depot. 1 Three foot rod would be 15 bucks.

I'll be on the road for that soon.....

I've pretty much ruled out it being a valve issue. The exhaust valve is thicker and just don't see the smaller valve spec'd for the 14 even coming close to working. One of my first thoughts was that a 16hp block slipped in there but the head bolt count said no to that. I never checked the dims on the od of the valve seat though. I'm no engine guru but I'm still saying the coil. If the issue still persists after I get through my list I'll just get the tools. The compressor, leak down tester, etc.

Same here Richard. I have a roll of these stickers that I use to cover the idiot lights.

I'm almost afraid to ask what method of eradication was used...

Happy Birthday Mike!!

No sir. I'm talking top link spacers for CAT2 tractor stuff. They are 1 inch ID, thin wall steel spacers. 2 of them slip loosely over the axle, and combined allow for 1/4 "in or out" axle movement but prevent the bearing slipping into the case. The only direction the bearing can go is outward, so at least it would be visible should that happen. The spacers slip loosely over the axle and do not touch anything else inside the case. Two spacers fit perfectly between the diff end cap and outer axle bearing, but still allow for the axial in/ out play.

Since the goal is to keep the die face perpendicular to the rod, I’d consider clamping something with a true and perpendicular ¾” ID hole to the die as an additional stabilizer/guide to help keep it aligned. Slipping it over the rod ahead of the die. A collar or coupler, for example? Forgot to mention the standard die motion--forward to cut and then back to break off and clear cut off material Also, realize that it takes a LOT of force to cut threads like that so the die carrier has to be quite sturdy and expect the rod to want to twist.

Welcome back. Any chance you can show a picture of the ID tags on those x82 series? Just curious if they are IH or MTD built. IH built will say International Harvester made in Chicago IL on it. MTD built will say Cub Cadet made in Louisville KY or Cleveland Ohio.

Can you elaborate on this? Pics? Several inches of shims between the inner and outer bearings? Or am I overlooking....

Well I am definitely a fan of Motion Industries. They waste NO time!

Hospitals must harbor plenty of ghosts--patients, doctors, nurses, administrators, and facility maintenance folk!

This is not easy at first. Make no mistake about it. There is scads of evidence showing that sugar is in general, along with processed foods, can be just as addicting to many people as alcohol or even some other drugs. I've tried to lose weight nearly every year since 2017 but failed for various reasons mostly related to medicines and body pains. In every case The medicine side effects turned out to be worse than what I was already experiencing. Last fall I decided it was time to try again. I started slowly working my way towards more proteins and fats and less sugars and processed foods. I cut out between meal snacks And stopped eating after a certain time In the evening. I did a little intermittent fasting. That was successful but difficult. I've now been several days in a row not eating for 16 to 18 hours overnight. It's absolutely incredible how well this works.

272.6 - 265.4 = 7.2 lbs down.

I have a set of 5x12 ag tires that would sure look better sticking out another inch on each side. But the 701 is an icon in a way. You don't see many that have mods. Every tractor I own is modified, and I wanted to make this one at least close to correct. But it might look pretty nice...

As it always seems to be the case, my transmission has a few more issues than I initially saw. Firstly, some eagle-eyed folks may have noticed (I saw it but ignored it) that one axle bearings was in a strange place. I figured somehow it got there during all the beatings that I gave this thing getting it apart. Nope... the case somehow got wallowed out so that the bearing could slip. The axle on that side has a small ring that I believe is just deep enough to prevent the seal from doing it's job. Also- some of the gear teeth that were in the bottom are chipped more than I thought. Luckily I do have another 3 speed case, and a 8-speed that has a damaged case. I'm hoping to use not only the newer shifter rails but the differential bull gear and brake shaft as well as possibly any other gears from it that are the same. The problem is that I do not have another axle of the same length, but do have a nice pair from the donor 8-speed. Of course they are 1 inch longer, so I'm not sure if they will look OK on this machine. Anyone got an opinion on using these axles?

You've replaced everything in the fuel system. The symptom has not changed at all. This tells me it isn't fuel. A rich mixture will fire easier than a lean one. Hence the recovery when choking.

In the past 35+ years I have gone through the WH 12hp step program twice only to fall off the wagon both times. The wife and I have both decided just to live with it.

I decided to test out the transdenser 2 made by Overnight Solutions LLC and distributed through Kirk engines. How does it work? Think of the Transdenser II as a high-performance/high-voltage relay. Breaker-points in a conventional ignition system make and break 3 to 4 amps of current depending on the coil resistance. This leads to their ultimate demise. The Transdenser II takes the heavy lifting from the points and places it on an IGBT semiconductor, thus dropping the breaker-point current to a preset 160mA, or 0.16A. Two thumbs up for me so far.

I've got the rivets showing through on the clutch brake for my d-180. Toro says the part is NLA. I'm sure this has been discussed before, but how can I replace the friction material so I don't damage anything since I now have metal touching metal? Doesn't seem like rocket science, but I'm not sure where to start.

I have never opened mine up. From the parts manual looks like there are two different ones used. #18 in the diagram WH# 973310 I know for sure is Dash #905 (O rings are described by Dash #) and must be an SAE ORB #5 fitting. I would hazard a guess that if the fittings using #13 WH #973370 are bigger than the above that they would turn out to be Dash #906 as they are SAE ORB #6 fittings What size wrench fits on each of the two different fittings? If it ever stops raining I will go down amd look at my D200. Edit: 973370 is definitely an ORB#6 and will use a Dash# 906 O ring Orb 5 (I/2 20 tpi)use 5/8" wrench Orb #6 (9/16 18tpi) use 11/16.

Do you have the original pans? If they are the steel ones, you can get new covers and reupholster them. I don't think there are any new ones that are going to look like stock.