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I have two nodding dolls, Mrs K and her Mother after 8PM.

We all need a hydro and hyd. lift. Just takes some of us longer to realize it.

Center of rear fender marked on a piece of masking tape. Center of rear decal also marked with masking tape. Rear fender cleaned and sprayed with water mixture then decal applied lining up centerline marks Decal squeegeed and fully applied. Before VS after picture.

Plowing all day!

you're bad Ed, if they see this post you'll be getting coal next Christmas

You could always add a little insulation to the walls and ceiling if you need to quiet it down. If you have access to electricity, a ventilation fan might not be a bad idea. to dissipate heat.

If you can not find regular shear bolts, then I would suggest using some grade 2 bolts. I like to call them "butter bolts". These are the ones found in the bulk bins at hardware stores. They will have no markings on the heads at all.

We got about 5" of pretty dense snow from this mornings storm. So I decided to video the 312H with foot pedal motion control. The video is 7 minutes long, so get comfortable. It took 7 minutes to clear one of the 5 paved driveways about an hour total for all fiveand another 30 minutes to clear the stone road. You can see the speed and ease of raising and lowering the plow and constant changing of direction. This would probably take an hour with a gear drive and manual lift. The stone road cleared in 30 minutes. Sorry, 5" snow wasn't enough to justify firing up the Ber Vac Deuce.

Caution decal applied to rear side of hood. Overview as of today.

Front hood decal applied.

Right side of hood ready for decal. Right side hood decal ready to apply. Right side hood decal applied.

nice job Ed -- i love to see a grown man who knows his plowing technique and looks like he is enjoying himself - sweet WH video!!! ------------ got my 312 - 8 new in 1989 -- plowed with it till 2 yrs ago -- did awesome job -- but then switched to c175h -- my lumbar lower back couldn't take the stress of the manual lift anymore -- my L4 disc is much happier now with driveway plow chores using the hydro lift on the c175h

Well, between general consensus, my opinion, and my wife's vote I decided on the TWIN decals.

My 97 K3500 Sierra got 10mpg, loaded, unloaded, highway, city...that 37g tank had a range of 370milew no matter what🤣 My Vette gets 32mpg hwy, 23city...its my 430hp fuel miser🤣🤣

Relativity tells us that the observed behavior can be either the motion of the observed or the observer!

This was in the mirror yesterday. Today it’ll be in the classifieds.

I vote "Twin"... But redundancy experts may disagree... But redundancy experts may disagree...

One more vote for all you Work or Wheel Horse experts. Should I use the period correct "TWIN' decal or slightly newer "HYDRO" decal. Keeping in mind the hood decal already says HYDRO.

I think I'll ask lowell and see what he thinks. Maybe I can send mine to him for a refresh. I've had it apart enough times lol I need to order some other things from him anyway.

Took a couple of pictures - tractor resting in garage, no more snow since plowing. Next time I'm out I plan to buy some 10w-30 synthetic and do a complete oil change in the trans. If that doesn't help, I guess I'll swap the trans. Maybe after it gets a bit warmer, going down into single digits this week.

This geared shaft is the shaft the pulley for the belt runs on outside the casing. The shaft wears and this one does show some wear . A new gear reduces the wear gap on the shaft which one or two seals won’t seal. It would be a great assistance to have some machinist make some of these and sell through Lowell at wheelhorsepartsandmore.com

Lucy has a new job! Guard dog at the Montauk Point Lighthouse at the eastern most point of Long Island, N.Y. This is as far as one can get away from New York City while on Long Island. (Just the way I like it!!) This lighthouse was commissioned by George Washington in 1792. I was in Montauk for work and decided to take a ride out there. Once I saw the guard dog sign I knew it was a good photo opportunity! Ten minutes after I took these pictures it started snowing like crazy!

Finally a little seat time.

It means let go of the lever....its done ......travel is complete !!!

Some engines have an optional diode in the ignition wire. I can only guess it is on the engine side of the engine/tractor connector. Will feel like a small lump under some electrical tape. Some models also have a diode in the other wire to rectify the charging current so don't get them mixed up. If the diode has failed in an open state grounding the ignition wire after the diode will not kill the ignition.

Dan. I thought the gear and shaft were two pieces. I never removed a gear from shaft and maybe like you say it would be a difficult job on a blind hole. But when I took apart pumps I never had a problem getting the outside belt pulley off. The internals I have had completely apart except for the gear from the shaft.

This is how a leak down tester does work. The pressure gauge shows how much air pressure you are pumping into the cylinder. The instructions will have a recommended pressure to set the regulator to. The percentage gauge shows you the amount of air loss that you have. Any percentage in the green is good, yellow = marginal, red = you got problems. Remove you air filter, crank case breather cover, and muffler as well if it comes off easy. Lock you flywheel so that your piston stays at TDC. While tester is hooked up you will listen in 3 spots for air leakage. Hear air through the carburetor = You have a leaky intake valve Hear air through the exhaust = you have a leaky exhaust valve. Hear air through the crank breather = you have bad/leaky piston rings. ( If this is where your air is leaking, then the bang is blowing past the rings and into the crank case when the engine fires. ) Note: you will always have a bit of leakage to the crank case, if the percent gauge is in the green it is acceptable. A leak down tester is merely a tool to tell you how much compression and bang power you are loosing and where it is going.

@Lane Ranger That gear was not part of the shaft on the Hien Werner pump that I took apart. In the pic below you can see that my dumb a$$ shattered that gear when I took my pump apart. Never tap on the shaft to remove the belt pulley unless the gear cover on the inside is removed. Lesson learned. This gear was held on by a roll pin that drove into a blind hole. The hole for the pin is in between two of the gear teeth. I would have absolutely no idea how it could ever be removed with out damaging the gear. Lucky for me. Lowell just happened to have a replacement gear. Otherwise my pump would have been scrap.

Thank you all! 52 years old and still going…

A Speedi Sleeve might work in this location. It might be a little far to drive one on the shaft. But I see the shaft has a flat on it from the end that might help reduce the squeeze fit until you get to that seal area. I used one on my Oliver tractors diesel injector pump 10+ years ago. Dang out correct kept changing Speedi to Speedo

When shopping for hoses ask how many wires are in the hose and what brand fittings. There are expensive ones and some cheap junk. I made Weatherhead brand hoses at Napa. 3 wire hose and quite stiff. I bought a cheaper pair of hoses online for my C-160 and they made it a year. I'd rather spend the money than spray my shop and clothes with hyd. fluid.

Yep, Right hand on steering wheel, left hand on lift control, right foot on motion control pedal, and left foot available to push neutral/brake pedal. Efficient non-stop snow removal.

Yes, TWIN it is. Thanks for the great pictures of ole rusty.

Ole' Rusty says "Automatic" and "Twin"

See the wear on the shaft!

That looks like a standard pan (4 pints).

I have quite a few actually, I even have a racehorse nodder

Left side hood decal applied.

K301S 2 quarts K301AS 1 quart I still think the reed valve is installed wrong.

We've seen that a few times over the years. Up here we have almost no Lake Effect snows. Every once in a while we get a bit of enhancement from Sebago Lake but not on any regular basis like @1940willys Our is more like "Mountain Effects" where the storms will actually stall against the hills and just DUMP snow or rain in some areas.

Right... I read that thread awhile back, but didn't see anything regarding if anyone has seen them on a 44" or where to get 3" long shear bolts for the two augers. It mentioned cutting grooves in regular bolts. I've looked online for 3" long by 5/16" Shear bolts , Nada. I would feel better with shear bolts in there, since I am refurbishing all of the moving parts right now and would hate to see the impeller on the 2nd stage get mangled again. (still trying to straighten it out).

The original soft seal that goes in from the outside was a little thicker or had a thicker casing. The replacement oil seals are narrower. I use to sell them several years ago. Lowell at wheelhorsepartsandmore.com. sells them now. But the thing to know is the shaft often has worn to the point that one of the new type seals won't stop leaks! I have recommended two of the new type seals if you have a leaker with one. There is just enough room to place two seals.

All the tractors in my area came from Innerst auto - Bob's weld shop or Becker's lawn and garden in Hanover Pa - this is from the barn find 416-8 I restored to worker in 2019

My gear drive 312-8 did good last year. This year I have a John Deere 140 with a 54" blade and full up/down and Left/right hydraulics. Hope this helps this old man some this year. The manual up/down and left/right gets old fast.

So when you here about Lake Effect Snow Hitting Buffalo,N.Y. and it's South Towns this is what they Mean !

Now that the snow removal is done, it's time to haul some firewood...

Got my Horse ready for its first snow removal job. Southern Pa could get 5-8 inches which is alot anymore these days in this area. 312-8 with the Kohler Magnum.

I have never replaced shear bolts ... yet ... Just running regular bolts but a guy could take some regular mild steel ones and grind down a groove in them in the right spot.