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Dear Lord, your servant Jay Paxton will undergo surgery tomorrow. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand, and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of his family. Lord please allow this temporary trial to bring an end to Jay’s battel with cancer. When he is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord, we praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

Shift knob restore. Still Waiting on more odds and ends for my C121 resto. In the meantime I noticed the shift knobs were wrecked no matter how much I scrubbed wire brush chemicals etc they still wouldn’t get clean. I’m too cheap to buy new. Used med grit sandpaper finished with 2500 . Now they are almost like new just need decals . I have too much time on my hands I guess or maybe just need help Shiny new balls !!

Thanks everyone for the kind and much appreciated birthday wishes. My wonderful wife, Krista had these cookies made for my birthday. These are made by her cousin who has a specialty cookie business. I ate one of the big ones (Although I hated to destroy one) and they taste as good as they look.

I expected it to clean them up a little, but was pleasantly surprised myself. I forgot to mention that the microfiber “sock” that fits over the pad makes a big difference, plus they are machine washable. Long story short, this is the same thing I used on a scratched up tractor hood. It works very well!

Overall view as of today. I can't get too far ahead of myself or I will be done way too fast.

I think you're in perfect health

Don’t store your babies next to your buckets! Also, my turkey is all dirty. A good soak in the bath tub will help.

I’ve been absent again but I’m still picking away. My repowered 12 automatic (18hp Briggs and Stratton vanguard v twin) was running like garbage so I cleaned the carb and fixed a ground kill wire leading to the front coil that I saw the mice had chewed. Took it out to do a load of firewood and it sounded off and had no power. Come to find out I had no spark on the back cylinder. I replaced both wires and then had no spark whatsoever. Confused I dug into the repair manual and surfed the internet. Turns out there are diodes in the coil ground kill wires. Reached out to a friend who has a repair shop and he had a junk engine that had the wire on it. Plugged it in and it’s back up and running on both cylinders. I decided it’s going to be my firewood/ back up plow tractor for the winter. Just need to install a plow on it if one of @WheelHorse_Kid‘s tractors or his brothers 856 fail on us but I don’t see that happening. Also got my fiancé’s little guy and my dog who I’m trying to get more comfortable in the garage out there with me.

........ and WE'RE the crowd to know!

Alright i finally made it back been super busy with work I finally had a moment to do some stuff... so I took all the cables off cleaned everything minor corrosion on those nothing bad made it up to the rectifier the bottom was so corroded to the mounting plate and the center bolt it took me prying it off with 2 screw drivers but with that being said everything is clean now and back together I hit the key and she's now purring like a kitten at a milk pail. Thanks for all the assistance

Hydraulic lift assembly ready to install. Lift arm greased at bushing and never seized at bellcrank mounting area. Right side lift arm bushing installed. Hydraulic lift assembly installed. Hydraulic lift cylinder installed.

Put the shifter in what feels like neutral. Pull the shifter out and look in the hole. The top of the forks should form a square. If the square looks like 2 offset pieces use a large screw driver or pry bar and move the pieces so the form a square. You may have to rock the tractor back and forth a little to help them move. Report back how it works out.

I've folded a couple folks clothes for em. Had mine folded tight enough to fit in a single overnight bag too. 1 out of 5 stars, do not recommend.

Or maybe this one..

Didn't think they were going to all come down before the snow started to fly this year.The 420 was pulled into the mix this year. It took 10 outings with 3 tractors and 2 broken rakes to get them under control. The 418-A with 42'' SD did the mulching and blowing them into the woods as well. Glad it's over..The raking does keep the upper body strength in check.

Air horn. 100% needs to become for an air horn.

I had my left hip replaced 3 weeks ago this last Monday and today I went to walmart shopping for food with no walker, cane or anything. I feel better than I have in years!!! Still taking a few pain meds but way down from two weeks ago. Hang in there, I have had both knees replaced and this was a cake walk!!! You'll be greasing something before you know it!!!! Randy

The Cyclone Rake has to be in the top 3 of my yard accessories!! But - theres that "but" - you do need a good sized yard to benefit from it. I'm like clueless, down here in NW La the leaf problem is much less, its the pine straw! I have some 125 pines in my 2+ acres of upkeep and until I got the largest Cyclone it was misery trying to get all that straw, and a good many leaves, up was a nightmare. Like wet leaves, the Cyclone doesnt like wet straw, but dry it will get 90-95% of the straw. Straw of course is needle like and the updraft/vacuum has to be strong. One year I decided to keep track of how many loads I hauled and ended with 22 loads of that finely mulched stuffs huge bag filled!! As mentioned, its a bit pricy, but WOW! what a tool, and, it is an extremely well made piece of machinery, with an extremely nice staff when you have the occasional problem. I'm now on my 22nd year with mine and have had to replace the blower fan (picked up a too biga stick) and the canvas bag finally wore out 3 yrs ago. Down here the leaves dont completely get off till the 1st or 2nd week of January and I go ahead and wait til then to start clean up.

Dipstick and tube ready to install. Dipstick tube installed. Dipstick installed.

1. Contact K&B Horse Parts from our vendor section. 2. CALL Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. Also from our vendor section. As our tractors age you'll find that part number resources are no longer as helpful on a regular basis. Another disadvantage to trying to find a particular part number is that it may be designed for a specific year or a specific color when there is a broad availability of other things that could potentially work.

Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports ready to assemble. Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports assembled. Fender support bracket and fuel tank supports installed using liquid teflon on bolt threads.

@Greentored That definitely is a keeper. You do not find those every day. Enjoy it and enjoy the ride.

I would pull that wheel and make sure you don’t have a groove worn into the underside of the spindle. It can be welded up and ground back round.

We got the 6 point all processed up, and in the freezer. It’s all seasoned and ready to pull out for a cookout!

Thanks may man, going to have to get me a couple. Enjoy your Thanksgiving, I'm smoking a Turkey and a Big Boston Butt and frying a Turkey. I told my kids and the rest of the group last year I'm getting to old for this its time for you young folk to take over. Obviously they didn't listen, told the wife yesterday we are going to New Orleans next year, they can work it out, she just looked at me with that 47 years married look and said yea right.

Thanks. I went back out and took a picture of the one I have on the right front and it looks larger in diameter then the one shown above.

Thanks! I like this pic better..

Very nice score !!! A 1045 is still on my bucket list.

Bushings came in. Here they are cleaned and ready to be installed. I used a bit of this to ensure bushings do not move once installed. Bushings pressed in. Ready to be drilled. Bushings drilled. Blocks tapped to 1/4-28 for grease fittings.

Good thing he wasn’t nosing around Hiram.

Takes a few minutes, but I found a way to bring headlights back when they get all crazed up. These are 11 year old OEM, and this truck stays out in the sun 24/7. And whatever you do, do not use the rattle can clear coat products. That stuff looks nice for about a year, and there are no second chances. The clear coat breaks down worse than the plastic itself. So Turtle wax scratch remover and my Harbor Freight handheld buffer. Takes about 15-20 mins per headlight. Makes a mess, but worth it. Just keep running the buffer until the paste dries up and clears off. Before and after:

Happy Birthday @cleat !!!

Also, when I installed the engine with the new shaker mounts from Zach kerber there was a wire from the shaker mount bolt to directly to the shaker plate. Didn’t install it. Would it make a difference?

You have to grind a notch in the shifter plate and the vertical plate. All the other holes are already there. Remove the cover plate on the out side of the lift lever and it bolts up right there. You can see I got mine notch too big, but this is a modifited worker. has a few more modifitation on it.

Thank god for RS . I knew y'all would understand

Happy Birthday, have a great day.

I picked up a 310-8 red/silver no black hood stripe, but there is no dial a height on it. i was hoping to use this for a plow/grader tractor, and i figure this would have been helpful, is it worth adding if i can find the parts? or will it work fine? this a future project tractor and would like some info on the tractor before i startup the thread.

Its been ages! Hope you all are doing great! Between the astronomical inflation of used/parts Horseys, building a new house, shrinking and relocating the business, and getting pretty heavy into the off road tractor scene, well, excuses excuses. The important thing is I remembered exactly where to go to brag about finally scoring a new one for the stables, and a pretty desirable one at that. 45 minute drive, 200 bucks, a couple parts swiped off an old K321 I had kicking around, and she was making tractor noises. The charging system even works! ...and no, this absolutely will NOT be seeing any offroad wheeling action

Agreed. Plus no need to mask the surrounding areas.

I have that kit. A power buffer and some Meguiar's rubbing compound is at least as effective and about 1/8 the hassle.

Do you wire in a toggle switch or are you saying they are constantly on?

This is the recalled lift. It's name was High Position Motorcycle Lift. Harbor Freight never displayed these in the showroom,but they were stocked in the back room. Never did I intend to put the regular HFT lift table down . The problem with my lift is that uneven loads could twist and break the welds. Thus the recall. My big lift table is a 36x96 lift table from South Worth made in the Eastern US. Rated at one ton and bought all beat up grom industrial salvage . I still love these little lifts. They are rated to eleven hundred, but the most I feel ok with is maybe 750

Looks like the big driven pulley is replaced and do not know the diameter. https://www.partstree.com/models/105-1503-toro-adapter-kit/crank-support-and-pulley-assembly-0/

And there you have it folks. AND if it's the 2 closest to the exhaust port... guess what?? That is the most common spot for the gasket to fail, as that area see the greatest thermal swing in temperatures. The Kohler K Series Manual mentions to retorque as necessary - no number of times given. I take it that means until it holds torque on all bolts when cold. KohlerKseriesManual.pdf

I've wondered the same thing. I've run it by friends that are technicians. I can't speak for the specific Sciences behind it. Hopefully somebody with a better understanding than me will pipe up. I've had discussions in both directions of yes it's always necessary or no you never need to do it. My thought process is, too many to similar materials for my comfort level are in play so I'm always going to retorque a cylinder head. In the case of a big block Kohler. The block is cast. The head bolts are steel. The cylinder head of course is aluminum. Some serious differences in the rates of expansion and contraction there. I've had the cylinder head off of maybe a dozen engines? I was probably two or three deep into that when I learned that they needed to be rechecked. When I go back and tighten up 10 bolts, one to three of them will move.

A few weeks ago a member requested guidance in rewiring a 312-8 from the magneto ignition system on his Kohler M12 to a battery ignition system on a replacement engine and retain the safety switch functions. I began looking at possible methods of accomplishing his goal and found that there were two basic systems depending on the ignition switch type. The 300 and 400 series Wheel Horses can be broken down to three groups when it comes to basic wiring. 1985 and 1986 all had K series Kohler engines with battery powered ignition systems with the exception of the 1986 308-8 which was a Magnum M-8 and the 1986 420LSE which was Kohler powered with a M-20. After all, this is Wheel Horse so there had to be exceptions. 1987 to 1997 were M series Kohlers and 1998 and later were Kohler Command powered. All 300 and 400 models that were equipped with Kohler Magnum engines from 1987 to 1991 used the 103991-ignition switch and from 1992 to 1997 they all used the 116338-ignition switch. These two switches are not interchangeable and the method of transitioning from magneto ignition to battery ignition was a bit different depending on the ignition switch. (see switches below) The goal was to avoid having to rewire the tractor while retaining the safety switches. The seat and PTO switches on a magneto ignition system are wired in series while the seat and PTO switches are wired in parallel in a battery ignition system. With the use of inexpensive automotive 5 pin relays, I was able to come up with a satisfactory solution that isn’t too involved. Utilizing this method the engine will shut off whenever the operator leaves the seat regardless of the PTO switch position. This is a bit inconvenient but it is the only way I could find without rewiring the safety switches. The wire gauge used on the safety switches of a magneto ignition tractor are too small to be used for a battery powered safety switch system. First, we will cover the modifications needed for the 1987 to 1991 300 and 400 series that have a 103991 ignition switch. Since the Ignition switch does not have power to the "A" (accessory) terminal in the Start position we will use one relay to provide 12 volts to the ignition coil during Start. This will be done by running a wire from the small purple wire on the solenoid to the relay terminals 30 and 85 to finish 12 volts coming from terminal 87 of the start relay to the ignition coil + when the relay closes. Placing the ignition switch will provide power to the small purple wire actuating the relay and passing power to the ignition coil if the operator is in the seat. The Dark Blue wire from the PTO switch that presently goes to the magneto coil will be disconnected from the PTO switch and eliminated. A wire from the seat switch light green side will be connected to relay terminal 86 to allow the relay to close if the operator is in seat during Start. (see start diagram) Once the engine starts and the key is released the white (sometimes pink) wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch “I” terminal will have voltage to it. When the key is released to the Run position the second relay will provide 12 volts to the ignition coil. The white wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch will be spliced into and connected to relay terminals 30 and 85. The ignition coil and light green seat switch wires will be the same as the other relay. (see run diagram and combined diagrams) On the later 1992 to 1997 models with the 116338-ignition switch a single relay can be used because the “L” (light/accessory) terminal has power in the Start and run positions. This wiring would be the same as the run diagram.

Yes, do have the battery tested. I would still check and clean all the ground points. Especially the strap between the engine block and the frame and the body of the R-R. And yes, the R-R is behind the battery. Please let us know what you find with the battery test.

@Skipper might ge able to help also...he is in Denmark. Welcome to Red Square !!