Leaderboard
-
in Posts
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - September 16 2025
-
Year
September 16 2024 - September 16 2025
-
Month
August 16 2025 - September 16 2025
-
Week
September 9 2025 - September 16 2025
-
Today
September 16 2025
-
Custom Date
10/08/2024 - 10/08/2024
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/2024 in Posts
-
10 pointsWhen my friend dragged home a couple of 60's Simplicity lawn mowers a couple of weeks ago he spotted this in the corner. Knowing how much I love old K series engines he asked the guy what he wanted for it. The guy answered, "take it with you too". So, I get a phone call telling me to stop over cause he's got something I might be interested in. Now knowing my friend this could be anything from a duct tape sparkler bomb to a mousetrap made from an old wooden model T Ford coil, lol. So here it is in all it's great running glory, the 10 hp Frankenkohler. He cleaned it up, sandblasted & primered the tins, rethreaded the SG shaft, cleaned the carb in the ultrasound tank, ordered a new 1/2 x 13 tpi left hand thread bolt for the crank (the company he found would only sell them in pairs for whatever reason to the tune of $60.00). He even made this cool little test run cart. So for all you eagle eye Kohler guys I'll get you started on the list of "Special" model mods. The SG belt is driven off a @Pullstart pulley. (no points given for the muffler, too obvious). Now for the real question, WWYD with it?
-
6 pointsMade for Case in 1973 so it would have landed on a 1973 or 1974 model of tractor. https://www.partstree.com/models/k241-46708-kohler-k-series-engine-made-for-case-10hp-7-5kw
-
4 pointsWe were able to spend the beautiful Sunday showing off a few of the round hoods. It’s always a great time making memories. We were even lucky enough to bring home best and show garden tractor with the 702. They boys and I put a lot of work into it last winter and it payed off.
-
4 points
-
4 pointsRiver Rock project. I've had river rock around my house for around 7 years. I used the weed barrier you can get at any local garden section (Like Lowes, Home Depot, etc that is made of a fibrous material. Unfortunately, it starts to break down after a few years and the weeks slowly start making their way through. I found this nursury grade weed barrier through a YouTube channel and decided to try it for my river rock. Also borrowed a friend's dump trailer to get an extra load of rock to raise the over all height a little. Unfortunatley, this load had all kinds of finds and was not even close to being clean. I have a large compact tractor I normally use for projects like this....but I had an O-ring on a hydraulic coupler fail and it started leaking. Decided this is the first real project I have used the loader on since I got this loader back in January. It had some pitted lift cylinders and replaced them during the summer and never used it until now. Must say, it beats a shovel any day. The control value is a little sensitive and takes some practice to keep from bouncing when you have a full load. This thing has lots of lifting power for its size. It actually has more lifting power than the counterbalance bucket and I quickly started to use smaller buckets. The forward swept axle and gear reduction steering makes it safer and easier to turn. Still have a little more work to do before it is finished and will follow up when in
-
3 pointsI helped my brother by mowing the last piece of his lawn with my 42”RD deck that I moved to the 312. The 42” came with the 308. The bigger deck definitely worked better in the tall grass than the 37” SD that came with the 312.
-
3 pointsThat’s pretty sweet! You should make a wheelbarrow or radio flyer tub rat go kart with it! I love the muffler!
-
3 pointsI think I crossed into "old". Passed up a night out of the house, although the activity itself was not terribly appealing, to stay home and do laundry.
-
3 points
-
3 pointsCorn head grease is what I have always understood is used. Good deal heavier than regular grease. If you can find a Six Speed transaxle the clutch/brake hook-up is a piece of cake, I did this on a 953 years ago, just had to drill a couple new holes in the transmission mounting plate of the 953. The 5060 transaxle was used in 1967 & 68 and the 5071 was used in 1969 Raider 10 & 12. They both have the limited slip differential but the differential side plates on the 5060 are forged aluminum and the ones in the 5071 are steel. You would need a pair of GT-14 axles to make the limited slip on a 953 or you could use the differential and axles from the 953 in either one which is what I did. Section two of the transaxle service manual shows the 5060 and 5071.
-
3 pointsI'll probably not fool with bearings, grease and such right now. Will be doing an engine and transmission rebuild in the nearish future. Already have a floppy steering bar, will deal with all that sort of thing while I have the engine off the frame. Looking closer, the wings and angle weldment are bolted on to the frame and not part of the frame. I still think I'll attach to angle instead of the frame itself. Keeps me from drilling the frame more and the standoff keeps it from interfering with the turning radius. If it's not wheel horse made, it's well built and appears to be around the same age as the tractor.
-
3 pointsAll the gt14’s I have seen have the cheesy 1/8” flat plate across the front of the frame. This looks like someone welded a new piece in its place with a purpose. Maybe a blade with outriggers that had a rodnthat went to the hole on the side? Anything is possible with a welder. I replaced my factory “plate” with a 1/2” plate and put an Attachamatic on it. Never have had a mower on it. Aldon’s thread is also where I got the idea.
-
2 points
-
2 pointsLooks like a ground (voltage regs require a good ground) so put it under one of the voltage regulator mounting screws.
-
2 pointsThat looks like it was for a front end loader. The ARK500 I had required a piece like that to hold the subframe up, and the wings were for the side upright braces.
-
2 points@Sarthurs01 That is great having kids around these tractors. Getting them involved in this hobby OHH very nice tractors! Good job on the restore.
-
2 pointsNo, but the PTO engagement arm is, which leads me to believe it was a replacement engine.
-
2 pointsNeat piece. I had a similar one off an old Jacobsen at one point. Was the engine orange colored like the base?
-
2 pointsHate to blow smoke in everyone's face, so to speak, but it remains illegal under federal law in all 50 states...
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 pointsIt also didn't help that they were installing load-range C tires on them to get softer sidewalls for better ride. The Rangers in the same years weighed less, had a lower payload and towing capacity and were still factory equipped with Ds. In reality what Ford should have done was to issue a statement basically saying "Yes, your truck-chassis vehicle rides like a truck. Congratulations on describing the proper operation of the vehicle. Now if you are unhappy with that please feel free to consider one of our nice sedans like the Crown Vic with air ride, or the Taurus/Sable that comes in a wagon if you need that extra space. Otherwise, go pound sand."
-
2 pointsI ended up getting the AC B-110 out today to tow the 14-8 up the hill to my shop. I didn't have much time after getting the boat cleaned up and covered for outdoor storage in October - won't be able to get it in for shrink wrapping until November, and using the AC tractor to move the dock sections into the winter storage spot. The no move problem on the 14-8 looks like it might be more than a missing key and set screw, as the input shaft did not appear to turn while I was pushing the tractor while it was in gear. Strange thing is, there was not any unusual noise from the transmission before it quit running. The shifter seems to go into all the gears without any problems. OOPS. I have not checked to see if the high/low shifter is between gears. Got to remember to check the simple stuff first! I'll leave ya'all with a pleasant image. Shot it off the deck tonight just after sunset: Edit: Got to quote one of the political candidates - "Sometimes I can be a knucklehead". I went out to the Horse shed tonight and found that the hi/low shift lever was indeed between gears. Must have bumped it when I got off of the tractor to start taking the dock out of the lake. Didn't think of that cause, since I had not used low range on my way to the lake. Knowledge for me, a tidbit of wisdom for the rest of you - check ALL of the simple things first.
-
2 pointsI believe that if you hung tractors from the ceiling, the mice would still try to make a nest in them.
-
1 pointSorry for the late response, y'all. Tin for garage and coop was delivered today and I picked up the rest of the lumber I needed to rebuild roofs. Will be a little busy. @Pullstart Man, I wish I had a front end loader. I've been kicking around the idea of making an auger using a rear diff but haven't even researched yet. Just glanced at your thread, will take a deeper look, probably tomorrow morning over coffee. @peter lena Just curious, what is your reasoning for two fuel filters? Also, I used Lucas red n tacky on my pulley bearing next to the clutch. You don't like it? (It's my go-to for bearings unless a black molly is called out) Also, you seem to be real into lubes and proper quiet running. I'm really conscientious about proper lube. Seen way too many broken machines for no good reason other than neglect. Have you seen Magnalube G or Triflow? Those are my magic lubes.
-
1 pointYou could probably find what you need by placing a wanted ad. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/
-
1 pointHere is a link where I did some rework on mine before selling it. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/84537-stormy-the-1056/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-977398
-
1 point
-
1 pointThe one host of the mid-day radio show I listen to lives not too far from this area, and last week he was saying it's been about 100 years since something like this happened to the Asheville area. Not only was it long enough ago that it hasn't happened in living memory, most of the people who live there didn't even know this could happen there.
-
1 pointBought this at Harbor Frieght like 12 years ago to charge up the trolling motor on my boat while it sat in a slip. It’s unregulated, so I don’t hook it up and let it “run” forever.
-
1 pointI think it was Mark Twain who said, "if I had known I was going to live so long, I'd have taken better care of myself." Still like to wrench on things, but don't have as much energy as I used to. Can't be fixed, trying to pace myself and not stress about it.
-
1 point
-
1 point@Pullstart Here you go Kevin. Little bit of wood burning in between squaring up rafters.
-
1 pointTree hugger approved lights ! Just temporary till I can get real power trenched. Solar panel in the window (as needed) to a 12v tractor battery to a 12v to 300w/120v converter to an LED shop light.
-
1 pointI just packed the wobble box with grease. Is that good enough or do I need to use 90 weight? I do use low gear high throttle. I'm thinking of either a hydro transplant or making it an eight speed.
-
1 pointCafoose: Looks like you have that sickle set up good! Glad to see you using the double set screw collars- I have been using them on all my Wheel Horse rebuilds as they make things a lot easier! Make sure to grease and lube that sickle after every use and watch the wobble box for leaks . First gear high throttle is best power forward when you have to watch closely for debris etc. My brother always said you are very busy in the seat as you are steering, shifting, adjusltly blade up and down etc. when using a sickle!
-
1 point
-
1 point@BurtB also a perfect time to RE GREASE THOSE MULE DRIVE BEARINGS , remove pulleys , lay out disassembly , critical for correct smooth function . easy to remove wide rubber bearing side shields , small flat putty knife , flat pocket screwdriver , don't roughhouse the seals , pry to remove , easy to save , lucas green grease , 550 degree drop point , polyurea rated , makes those bearings silent , by the way that lubrication upgrade , is what makes that deck assembly , operate with a solid quiet operation . imagine no bearing whine . like to wipe out original " lubricant " flush with carb cleaner , repack to same ammount , my 3 horses have that set up , every bearing upgraded , every movement point moves with ease , pto lever does not squeal , with easy engagement . just an opportunity , pete
-
1 pointIt’s so strange to me that even now, I catch myself fearing that some of my “long term” projects may not come to fruition. The realization that I have more days behind me than in front definitely alters my perspective. My dad passed almost two years ago. Saying he lived hard is an understatement. If it was unhealthy, he doubled down on it. So many people in my life have lived long lives that were ridiculously unhealthy. Smoking, drinking, poor diet. Makes me wonder sometimes what living healthy really is. Lately I’ve begun thinking that low stress is more important than anything else. Especially true for the fellas… And yeah, stay away from “The news”. Regardless of your politics, it’s just shock value now. Journalism is dead.
-
1 pointI know not all can get along or see things alike. Never did I ever attempt to place a target on anyone… And never did I ever make for this to become a government affairs order either. It was just my sincerity and trying to check in with those in the path. At the time I posted, a I didn’t even fathom the depth of destruction into the Carolinas. My condolences to those involved, and I pray that some state of calm can evolve in those areas, where travel and commodities are hard to navigate without a road system…
-
1 pointThe serial number isn’t particularly useful on these tractors. The model number is. The D-180 was made in two model years, 1974 and 1975, and was assigned the model numbers 1-0611 and 1-0612 respectively. In the case of the D-180, the two models are essentially identical so you can probably use either one when looking up parts. Since you have a front loader you should make sure your front spindles have been upsized to 1” diameter. Originally these were 3/4” and were prone to breaking even without a loader attached. The loader is fairly common, the backhoe is quite scarce. The loader was made by Ark, I don’t remember if the back hoe was by Ark or Brantly. Regardless, you have a desirable and somewhat rare piece of machinery. The main point of my reply is to tell you that your short bus comment is inappropriate and unappreciated. I have thick enough skin, but I do take this personally. Grow up and cut the crap. Enjoy the tractor. Steve
-
1 point
-
1 pointRemoved a broken hoobie doo... the weld on nut works every time
-
1 point
-
1 pointDay nine of rain. Got the 312H ready for snow plowing and deer recovery duty. 48" plow, front and rear weight, blade centering support, rubber chains.
-
1 pointI like this idea. Normally I just free hand mine with a brush. Not perfect, but not too bad. Getting harder now that my eye sight is starting to take a crap.
-
1 pointWhat I do is put that first half of the top number in the search box above. " 61 o8k8o2 " Hit search, but then hit "and" ... There are ways to check "files" too but I don't remember how. I'd say you have a 1976 B80 8 speed.
-
1 point
-
1 point