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I just drove 3-1/2 hours for these two items, snow blower and tiller.. the only thing I REALLY wanted was the tiller, it’s complete minus the bracket for the axle… the price was for sure worth it! I’ll be needing an idler pulley and maybe a longer cable for the lift. All in all I’m pretty satisfied. The snowblower is going to need some work so I might part it out or sell it as a project, it has rod and flag. The tiller has a little fluid in it, but not a whole lot.. I’ll not use it alot so if it leaks a little it’s ok.

@midpack here's my setup. Harbor freight crain and a 2" receiver winch plate mount. Have one of Lowell's 2" hitches on back. Bombproof.

Alright…. Winner of the key rack is @Achto Congratulations! Also I decided to draw a second name for four magnets. @TractorEd you get the magnets. I’ll pull four of them off the display board for you and send them your way. Please pm me with your information and I’ll get these out next week. Thanks again for helping keep this site going. It’s appreciated. first spin #10 second spin #23

@Sparky - I made the trip for corn free rec fuel the other day.. Took me 2 minutes because i caught a red light... 4.99 / gallon - not bad...

For the little bit o extra coin, I think I'll stick with my no corn squeezin' gas. Corse, I'm not on a government budget yet.

I got to thinkin that the hydraulic lift needed something to lift so I added a reel. Now maybe it’s done, but who knows.

The upgrade is to go to the way wheel horse did it on the early models (1988, 1989) and run the charge current directly from the regulator output to the battery cable on the starter with a 30A inline fuse for protection. Here is the wire diagram showing how it came from the factory. Wheel horse 520H wire diagram.pdf The later ( 1990 and up) models ran the charge current through the 9 pin white wire shown on the attached diagram then passes through the 30A fuse and then goes back through the 9 pin on the red wire and then on to the battery cable at the starter. Later model 520 wire diagram.pdf I believe that is why the newer 520's and I believe the 416's have many more 9 pin issues than the 1988 and 1989 models.

Went to to New Hampshire again to replenish my ethanol free fuel. Just a reminder that here in Connecticut its close to $30 for a gallon of straight or premix ethanol free . Bought 43.5 gallons in New Hampshire for $4.36 a gallon at the pump. Factor in the $29 my truck used to get there and back and it makes the e-free stuff $5.03 a gallon!! Speaking of trucks…Tundras are the most reliable trucks out there but were never great on fuel, but my 2016 with close to 100k on it got 19.9 MPG when hand calculated (trucks computer was pretty darn accurate) super happy with that! This was 90% highway with cruise set at 68/69 most of the way.

Yup - you just done got yo'self the WH "Ride of Courage" merit badge... and lived to tell the story........ Welcome to the Club.....

But...

Very jealous! 194 miles (round trip) for me which equates to 4.75 hours door to door.

I would cut out any and all of the cancer and weld in new metal. To get the best results when painting, sand blasting to bare metal is the way to go. There is nothing that will completely protect the underside side of the deck, some paints or coatings may be better than others but regular cleaning and oil coating is necessary to prolong life.

I thought I had finished with my plumbing efforts having two bathrooms that are perfectly fine. But father in law is too weak to use the bath tub so we decided to rip it out and replace with a shower cubicle. So out came the tools and I made a start building a stud wall to house the pipes and sorted the waste and water feeds. The tray needed raising up because the waste outlet is higher than it should be so I had to pack it up with marine ply. I'm not tiling it, I'm using upvc wall cladding panels which are pretty good for the job. Certainly easier than me trying to tile the wall. Waiting for delivery of the panels on Tuesday and then I can build the glass cubicle and finish the job.

I have two left. I am getting ready to make some mid 60’s style racks soon.

I did it twice on one road trip. Seeing 2.73 per gallon for diesel was great!

Wow ... now if that wasn't rigged... I have one but could have used another for the shop & tractor keys,,,

The latest revisions to our 1/2 scale Ma Deuce 50 cal setup! Ammo can and can tray are removable, we've even added a flickering LED to the barrel tip that actuates from the triggers. Have a client that wanted to "Rat Patrol" his mini jeep!

Woooo Hoooo!! THANKS RICHIE !!!

So we have 3 dogs. A 13 year old lab, and two beagles, one is a little over 18 months, the other not quite a year. We also have latching baby gates to keep the beagles (mostly the younger one) contained in certain places, essentially to keep them in the room we are in. So I am sitting here in the living room watching Star Trek with my son, with the dogs in the room, and the gate to the kitchen closed and latched. Then the youngest dog hops off the couch, walks over to the gate at the kitchen door, unlatches and opens it, and walks out into the kitchen.

I never really thunk of that. Actually a good idea, because it doesn’t take much weight to raise the nose of a wheel horse. Now I gotta drag the welder back out…

AZ Tractor, just give them a call for the best results.

I've bought from them before, and had decent experience with them, so you should be good to go.

I've done a magnetron conversion a quite a few single cylinder Briggs. Have never been disappointed. I do as @Gasaholic suggested, cut the wire for the points & just leave them where they are to plug the hole.

Still floors me you can't get hi test there when it's everywhere here. About the same price but regular is below 3 in some areas. What's everyone's thoughts on watering down hi test a bit with regular pump gas ... stretch it a little further and use it in daily drivers? Switch back to strait hi test for storage? That same canned fuel is about $20.00 here.

Yep. OEM conversion parts will also include a plunger hole plug to plug the plunger hole for the breaker plunger. However, many of us pro techs shortcut it by clipping the wires next to the breaker box cover without popping flywheel off (Be sure which wires you're clipping though, don't clip alternator wires!) other than that the magnetron conversion coil bolts right in, just set the air gap and hook up the ground wire to your kill circuit and should be good to go. Note that the Magnetron generally requires around 250 RPM to generate a spark so trying to check spark by spinning the flywheel by hand is a crapshoot, so if you tend to do that to check spark before bolting up, don't assume it means the coil is bad. You'd need to put in recoil or spin it with starter to generate enough RPM to get a good spark from Magnetron coils. Also to add - New briggs part number currently is 590781 (394891 is the old part number)

After reading members' inquiries about sources for factory-like identification tags, I'll share what I have done as an alternative. The tags on two of my everyday machines (toys) are intact and legible. I had the model and serial numbers engraved on aluminum military-style id tags and attached them to the engines. I get it that they are not the same as factory originals. These tags will not degrade. They are about .050-inch thick and cost $4 each on ebay. Richard W. id tag.webp

Definitely a 1966 model year with the 202616 serial. 1966 models go back into the 170000's

This is for diesel owners only. Get the MUDFLAP app! It’s awesome!

To make a square hole without a punch I simply drill a round hole then use a square file to make it square. It helps to have a carriage bolt handy and test fit it as you file so you don't make the hole too big. If your round hole is the same size as the flats of the square hole then you are only removing the corner material so not a lot if filing is required.

You are absolutely correct. The nine pin is not a heavy duty connector and is placed near the battery where it is subjected to battery acid fumes as the charging system replenishes the battery. The only high amperage passing through the nine pin is the charging current and once the connectors are slightly corroded and loosen from day to day vibration the higher current flow develops enough heat to melt the plastic. If dielectric grease had been used on the nine pins at the factory preventing the corrosion they probably wouldn't ever have been a problem.

May the odds be ever in your favor!

Here’s a quick pic of the machine, planning to take the loader off and mount to my 417-8. The c-175 runs great but it’s obviously a series 1 kt17 and I’m not a huge fan of having the hydrostatic control on the same side as the loader controls

The BBT and her Momma spent several hours working on firewood. This is her 867 Pigpen and the 1977 Ohio Steel trailer. My crane...

Ok, maybe this will get us back on topic. Today I made a safety light and pole for the 312 plow tractor .

as usaual my 9 pin was shot. replaced it with 2 weather pack 4 and 5 pin 30 amp connectors, w/ pigtails, soldered and marine grade heat shrinks. my tach, dash lights, headlights, tail lights, and charging system came back to life. who would have thought? anyways im interested in the charging circuit re-route. could some one post a link? whats the benefit? also upgraded dash and head lights to led.... super nice!

Should anyone ever ask, you’re simply formulating your next plan!

I was just trying to help Sparky cut his time down between fill up runs. Your time is coming ... Squonky calls it a fixed income... I also use Miller and Miller Lite for the corn squeezins ...

Thank you. Coming soon Need to add a “lighter button and an indicator light”

Try it without the key in place so you can spin the hub on the axle. Once you can get the hub on easily, take it off and do it with the key in place.

Don't tell my son that. He's very excited for his first archery season, but he's away the first weekend. Then he has scout meeting that Monday, music that Tuesday, and so it will be at least Wednesday night before he gets out. And he has a 1 1/2 lbs to pick up on his draw weight yet.

@WHX?? also like contractor bolt on electrical lugs , 3/8 base bolt , gives you very solid electrical grounding , by passing a flimsy hook up point . like engine cooling tins , headlights , dielectric grease , solid , pete

thank you 953 nut. using the chart you provided i did some research. using the belt part numbers i was able to get belt dimensions. this way i can obtain belts at my local auto parts store only 1 mile from my home. THANK YOU! good advice pete, thank you

Ya I’d imagine it’ll be a little clunky and slow, but I like the idea of being able to stop with the foot clutch while operating the bucket. I’m more used to shuttle shift on JD but I’ll figure this out one way or the other. Either way excited to have it and put it to use around the property will definitely make life easier

“What’s wrong boy? Timmy fell in the well! Over by Old Beaver Creek Road! He said bring a rope and a sandwich!” Good boy.

Dogs have roughly forty times more smell-sensitive receptors than humans, right? Heck, when I was a kid, Lassie could smell when her owner fell down a well!

Ours is too dam smart for her own good. If we want her to do anything she has to WANT to...

Gave the 523-H her first oil change today. No glitter in the old oil (5 hours since build), so that was a relief. I was concerned about how dark it was, but then remembered that the assembly lube I used was black. She is dirty already, but ready to work again!

I’ve talked of Henry before, and his C-120. When they got it from me, it only had forward gear and I sent another hydro with it. We are camping at their house this weekend and got it going again! It needed fresh transmission fluid and when the new trans got put in, the cam ball post apparatus wasn’t aligned.

D upper dash! Here you can see the pattern ghosting and the slight over extrusion of the text, but over all I'm calling it good!