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This one is special to me. Back in the day I had many of these Start/Gen tractors. I just wanted to have one that is show worthy. Garage queen only.

Socks ?? We don't need no stinking socks.

I had a dented up hood that came off my C160, I had been thinking about doing somthing like this for a while now, didn’t take long and was a super easy project.. what do you guys think?

Not really a coaster, though it could be used for that purpose. This item is going to be used to cover a hole at the center of the flywheel screen. It is a work in progress and this is the first iteration so please ignore the hole on the edge of the hub. This was made using Libracad, a 2D CAD program which allowed me to load it into Estlcam, a simplie CAM program. Estlcam created the G-code file that the CNC router used to create the part.

@squonk wide ones… skinny ones… they fit!

I had a source for free oak pallets that heated my house for many years. I just used a circular saw to cut along the three supports to free the boards then cut the supports in half between the nails. Burned it all, then spread the ashes including the nails on my garden, fruit trees, ,blackberries, and raspberries.

Puts you in the mood to horse around.

Just happened to check Craigslist yesterday 7 minutes after a gentleman posted a 418-8 for sale, $400. Picked it up this morning and mowed with it. It has a 42” recycler deck and electric lift. Has an adjustable seat that’s stuck so my short legs barely reach the pedals As I was leaving he said he had a couple more things for it. Turned out to be a set of 50lb steel wheel weights. I’ll be cleaning it up and changing the fluids later today. Need to clean the deck too. I can tell by the way it cuts that’s it’s all clumped up underneath. Loving it so far, other than a big pop when it starts…

@Sparky Here's a couple few for ya!!

You have to be wearin shorts and cowboy boots with no socks!

Better keep quiet, you don't want to alarm the wetlands police.

I rebuilt the carb on my 857 last year. Haven't had any issues until a month ago whilst mowing. Engine would start hunting like running out of gas for about a minute then cleared up. I figured it was a fluke. Next week the same thing. Was planning on draining the tank and going thru everything but decided to give it a double dose of Seafoam "Snake Oil." Ran it around the block with no problem and have now mowed twice along with pulling the cart around. Engine runs perfect again. Another one into the Sea Foam win column!

All my tractors have either a Fumoto or EZ Drain valve. This one is a Fumoto. A piece of plastic tubing into a jug makes for clean draining. Most are 3/8" NPT.

This one is probably 2 feet long overall. I ran it with my 24” crescent wrench too.

We Like em with fat behinds

The thread size is 5/16-18. On a number of the intake and exhaust screws it is possible to tap them deeper, use a bottom tap and go as far as you can and then get longer bolts, cut to fit is a good idea to get maximum engagement. I do this any time I have those bolts out to prevent what you have experienced. A drop of oil on the threads and torque to no more than specified.

Well let’s see… yes. Yes you do.

Good source of iron for fruits...!

I use Schaeffer 115 Simplex Torque Converter Fluid, a heavy duty replacement for type A transmission fluid in the Eaton 1100 in my 416H. No problems at all. Packed in a 2½ gallon jug.

I've tried that too when I was a little younger and wanted some firewood. A lot of pallets are made of oak or maple for strength so they burn well but as you said they are not at all prone to coming apart. Back when I was 19 or 20 I worked for an actual pallet rebuilding factory for a year. You would have been fascinated to see the machine I used to disassemble the pallets. It was huge.

In my ignorance, I once tried to savage some lumber from a nice pallet. Learned quickly that they are NOT made for disassembly! There is a good reason why so many businesses are happy to give away used pallets for free. They DO make for a great bonfire, though.

I shoulda had that as my title to this thread, “ just horsin around” lol

Ah, the tricks of the trade when bench seats were the standard!

Some engines had a hole in the front bearing closure plate , typically filled with a metal clip-in plug (often it went missing, never replaced) through which one could view timing marks etched on the back side of flywheel, and some engines had that hole in the blower housing - either case if flywheel did not have timing marks (and/or the index pointer cast or formed into the bearing plate or blower housing) one could create their own timing marks by finding exact TDC of the engine, make your TDC mark and index pointer (Didn't even need hole in bearing plate or blower housing if there wasn't one, just use some tape or scratch awl on blower housing and rotating screen) and then take your degree wheel and find the timing (and/or advance points for the rare old engines that actually had timing advance mechanism, which were the engines usually equipped with aforementioned timing marks) and make your target timing marks , then simply hook up your timing light (battery power plus clipped to plug wire) and fire her up and adjust breaker points until your timing marks hit - in the case of those with timing advance mechanism, you'd have to run at specific RPM's for idle and high idle, so needed a tachometer. Usually .020 did the trick to get timing set , most kohlers did not have timing advance anyway. In a few cases where engine performance did not seem spot-on, I would more often than not adjust timing by the feel of it (or for those that can hear, by sound) because it was faster than setting up timing light stuff, but generally only worked after many engine services under the belt (You had to develop the ear or the feel for when things were just right) many times after checking the final point gap was never more than .002" give or take from .020 standard.

There are different styles of 90° fittings. Some of them, especially brass, will fit in tighter spaces. You may have to lift the engine a little bit to spin it on. I've never seen one yet where it can't be done. Whatever it takes it's worth the effort.

That's a day right there. The BBT and I have been planning a new entrance path to the forest. We have 10+ acres here. The front 3 are divided from the rest by a low spot that collects water all year. We built the old bridge several years ago knowing it was KD wood and should last 3 to 5 years. We got all of that out of it. The old bridge was/is in the easiest location to get through at that point. That was way over to the left side of the acreage. Since then we've had some land cleared for the garden area which is more central on the property. The frog pond takes much of the water for that area. What we need to get over is the spongy stuff behind and to the left side of the garden area we had cleared. The new bridge will be put in there. Yesterday Trina continued cutting small trees to get us through where we need to be. The new bridge and path will be a little more long lasting. More stone in the base and better pallets. Still KD. Pallets are free. Pressure treated would be a huge investment that we aren't willing to make. Replacing pallets is an investment in time, for sure. This new setup will be more user friendly to rebuild in a few years.

We cooked a batch of chicken stir fry on our realitivly new Blackstone grill. It is the fourth or fifth time we've used it. It is starting to get a good season on it now. We ate on the deck at the lake house. Reasonable day. 70's with humidity to match. Nice sunset while we had dinner.

How did the song go? "I've got a brand new set of roller skates and you've got a brand new key".

Yes it’s the motor/blower part for the trac vac system I cobbled together. I have no other parts for the plow. But what’s there looks barely used.

3/8 pipe. EZ oil drain valve. https://www.ezoilchangevalve.com/shop-here.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuMC2BhA7EiwAmJKRrOCEFjmBuzIl1M-ew-tQALIafSNtQXZU8DJ1x4YKAZgBQs79TP0i3hoCWBUQAvD_BwE

Dexron/Mercon works fine. Others have had good results with hyd fluid.

That's a little puller! Glad you said modest! I used a 13 ton puller from work when I took the wheel off of my 1267. The pin didn't budge so I had to use a 24" Crescent wrench to turn the puller screw to shear the pin. No flip flops were worn with that puller around!

Driving up the toy hauler ramp, the drive belt was slipping a bit. I grabbed a 1/2x70 and 1/2x71 belt from the local TSC. The 70” fit Steve Oh Two and Putt Putt received the 71”. Perfect. I was blown away to see pinstriping on the HY drive pulley under the belt guard. Amazing! Notice too, this frame has been plated at the transmission mount. Good to know!

The late model steering wheel was a bit odd looking. I don’t have a correct one here, but a closer one. A couple weeks ago I began soaking. Today, I earned a right of passage.

Cleaned the deck….then mowed the lawn. It did a good job.

Pretty much the same as Skittles. I have the frontiers on my mower too. They are fantastic tires.

Congratulations 🎉 Nice find.

When you reinstall the steering shafts you have to shim the lower shaft to get the gears to mesh. Too tight will cause excess wear and hard steering and too loose will also cause wear. The fan gear is cast and 1 1/2" to 2 " play in the steering wheel is as good as you can expect..

Our good friend that does truck fabrication for a living was telling us all about the amazing qualities of anaerobic sealer and how they've pretty much switched over to using that almost exclusively. I bought some so they could use it on my truck when we rebuild the rear axle. I got thinking that might be good in the application here for trying to seal up the valve cover. I didn't realize that it can't be laid down on top of paint so I scraped the painted surface under the gasket for the breather off with a razor and then some sandpaper and then cleaned it with brake clean on a rag. Put the new base gasket in. All installed and setting to dry.

I use nyloc nuts for most things. If I need a lock washer I usually use a Star type. We have very rough twisty hilly terrain. I've assembled tractors and implements with the original WH bolts and modern cheap Gr 5 like from a TSC or HD. We've had bolts break off. We've also had the experience of the lock washer cracking or breaking right out. That's why I switched over a few years ago to using almost exclusively GR 8 hardware. Pricing is similar. Zinc coated for corrosion resistance. Far superior strength for holding larger torque preloads. We switched to nyloc nuts then too. Add a little length to the bolt to compensate for the wider nut and flat washer ... torque away.

Here is looking at you. Original halogen lights on all my 400 series tractors.

Being careful to not “chop” these off with the 42”RD…someone would be vey mad, might not get dinner tonight

875 and 310-8