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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/2024 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Went on a 7 day vacation to the Maine Highlands area . Heat and humidity were gone but the over cast sky and on and off rain were present. Only 2 days of fishing, Thursday and Friday with a lot of smallmouth all under 2 lbs. We noticed the metal moose and bear while in downtown Greenville worthy of a few pictures. Amazing the talent some people have. How do the welds look Jay / @JPWH ? Last pic resembles EB ?
  2. 9 points
    This is the Workhorse GT1800 we built for our friends. He "had to get them"
  3. 8 points
    Agreed. My storage barn is 40x80 and I’m thinking a 16’ lean to off the back just might be the answer for a couple more years.
  4. 8 points
    Worked on making some personalized Key Chains for a friend. I think they turned out well! 3D printed in 3 colors. The one I made for mine is not personalized. Always fun to be making something unique and useful. It is a small thing to do on a WH, but an easy way to finding the key on the key rack! Steve
  5. 7 points
    Not only talent but deep pockets. That's a lot of metal. The welds were not all done by the same person because I'm the only person I know that welds with that inconsistency.
  6. 5 points
    You all are amazing! Thank you for your replies. Going to start putting feelers out for a 1987 or newer 314H with hydro and an Eaton 1100 trannie. I'm pretty sure I can find a 42" rear discharge deck and the plow separately or maybe get lucky and get the whole package. All in good time. Thanks again, much appreciated.
  7. 5 points
    I went to Wally World today. Walking across the auto service lot was your doppelganger! Baseball hat, shirt with sleeves cut off, shorts too long, or pants too short with cowboy boots. Cept' the guy was almost 6 ft. tall! I was laughing so hard I almost had to call the
  8. 5 points
    Kevin, you have too much carrying capacity with your truck deck and trailer. Most of us can only drag home one or two at a time. You can load up a half dozen or more without breaking a sweat.
  9. 5 points
    Don’t discount the predecessor to the 3 and 400 series, the C series. A C-101 through C-161, a C-105 through C-165 if you like the black hoods, etc.. are all great choices for you. They came in hydro or gear jammer flavor, and are much simpler with less wiring and such, and easier to maintain in my opinion. They even had 8 hp models if you like your tractor to sip the petro, but that would be asking a lot for a 42” deck.
  10. 5 points
  11. 4 points
    I have always been a fan of the single cylinder motors on the Wheel Horse and Toro models. Easy to take care of a Kohler K and/ or Kohler Magnum motor. Maintenance, parts and good guidance are readily available. The 14 and 16 hp motors give you good power for 42 or 48 mower decks.
  12. 4 points
    I would only use a link belt as a temporary sizing opportunity. But what I've been doing for the last few years is try to get a rough measurement and buy five belts. Return the four that I don't need.
  13. 4 points
    I would eliminate the amp meter and put a volt meter in tis place (did that on mine), just connect it to the "L" terminal on the ignition switch. I also added a 30 amp fuse to the line from the battery/solenoid connection to the ignition switch to protect the wiring.
  14. 4 points
    For mowing and snow removal, I’d look for a 300 series, a 314-H would be perfect - powerful, single cylinder Kohler for easy maintenances. For a bucket loader, you’ll need to have a separate dedicated machine. I’d go with a 520 since it has gear reduction steering (similar to power steering) and a swept front axle that provides better stability.
  15. 4 points
    Be sure to understand the full width of what the SHELL is. A 42" REAR Discharge is several inches narrower than a 42" SIDE Discharge. The Herd on our acreage is predominantly from 1965/6/7 and 1974/5. We do have a 1986 416-8 with a Front End Loader and Backhoe. The frame and transmission of a 300 to 400 is the same. A 300 is certainly capable of utilizing a Loader. My understanding of the POWER difference between the 300 and 400 series is that the HP begins lower on the 300 and ends higher on the 400 but they do cross over. There are 314 models both Manual and Hydro. There are 414s this way well. A very important consideration for a 300 series if you get a hydro is the type of transmission. A 321A is much lighter duty than a 312H because of the transmission rating. ANY hydro in a 400 will be the heavy duty one. Other series differences are related to options like seats and steering wheels or dash lights. I personally would avoid a 500 series for several reasons. Most importantly, ease of repairs and maintenance. The wiring alone on a 500 is..... alot. @JCM and @PWL216 both are 80s and 90s + gurus. Maybe they have more to contribute or even a line on a good tractor.
  16. 4 points
    @PWL216 I don’t remember the name of the towns where they came from, but they were pretty much close to the center of the state in different locations. The C was in pretty good shape but when I went to pick it up it appeared that the motor was seized. Turns out it was just a mouse nest that jammed up the starter and flywheel. Then lots of compound and wax! The 8- Speed was a different story, it needed a lot of love. When I went to pick it up I thought maybe I shouldn’t even buy it. But I had already spent money on the Cross Sound Ferry and took the day off work, so I didn’t want to come home empty handed. I really wanted an 18HP 8-Speed Electric Lift tractor so went ahead and bought it. Then after spending some time here at the Wheel Horse Hospital I got it back to looking the way I like them to look. Fixed the mechanical issues then painted the frame and wheels.
  17. 3 points
    @Pullstart have you been holding out on us? Running well! I'm impressed.
  18. 3 points
    @Ed Kennell I don't think we have to worry he will end up parking it in the field up to it axles.
  19. 3 points
    Not so fast.... Kevin's is the same but a fo do - too many door handles!!!
  20. 3 points
    I did some reading. I did some learning. I did some checking. I did some testing. I did some cleaning. Been fiddlin' around with Millie a lot of the day. The S/G is "starting" and "generating" separately from the voltage regulator. The VR ground is good. It appears all wiring is OK. I disconnected the dash light to retest making sure the fault wasn't in the lamp somehow. I pulled the regulator from Trina's 857. They test DIFFERENT across the resistance. I can't honestly say I knew what the readings meant but one of them had a 78 to 80 and the other one had a 4... something. One of the YouTube channels said that the max was about six to seven and it was the higher one that was in the tractor. So I finished cleaning up the one from the 857 and put that in. Success!! After just a couple minutes at full throttle the battery had gone from 12.2 or 12.3 up to 12.8 ish. The charge light on the dash is out. I'm gonna call that a win for now. Only thing I had to change in the wiring was make this little jumper cable. I wrapped it right up on both ends and I'm hoping it'll be all right. Should be.
  21. 3 points
    Take the rod with you to ACE hardware and buy a couple that fit.
  22. 3 points
    I can hear it now as the tin Lizzy grinds to a halt. " Ok ma, we need you to contribute to the ride home! "
  23. 3 points
    Here goes - .... They are directional for transferring power. They stretch and have a lower load carrying capacity than regular flat or V belts of comparable size.... and they are noisy. Ofter used as Mike said to replace a belt that is captured on at least one end by bearings ( think gear drive decks or South Bend Lathe). Good to detetmine OAL sizing and 1 step above using a pair of pantyhose as an emergency fanbelt on an old 6 cylinder !!
  24. 3 points
    Carlisle designed that tire for hard packed surfaces, I'm not surprised that the tires sort of failed the mud test.
  25. 3 points
    Welcome to the forum. Everyone has good points now it's time for you to think and buy a tractor or two, or three or......... Be careful they are addictive.
  26. 3 points
    Any Wheel Horse will outwork and outlast any of the Big Box offerings. The 310-8 is my go-to mower/tower. I mow about an acre of lawn with some substantial elevation changes and it has no problem climbing the hills while mowing. For snow plowing you would want to add wheel weights and chains but the 310 is very capable there too. If you decide to go with a Hydrostatic transmission I would suggest looking at a twelve horsepower or larger engine. I also have a 418 (eighteen HP) which is used as my snow mover, it is great for that but uses more gas than the 310 for mowing. The frames, transaxles and most parts on the 300/400 models are the same, front spindles and wheel assemblies are larger on the 400 and I have converted my 310 to the 400 spindles and wheels for a better ride and steering on rough terrain. I have a loader on a GT-14 (larger than the 300/400) but it would also work well on them. For a loader unit I wouldn't go with less than fourteen horsepower due to the added weight and the need to push into material being scooped up. When you have narrowed down your selection stop by and ask any questions you may have.
  27. 3 points
    I prefer the pre 300-500 and black hood series tractors. Better paint, thicker (and less of it ) sheet metal and easier to work on around the tunnel area .
  28. 3 points
    I am a big fan of 300 series for mowing as it uses a 1/4 tank of fuel as compared to a 400 series at over double that mowing a DRY lawn at 3/4 throttle on both machines. 300 does well with a 48'' dozer blade for plowing snow with rear weights and chains as well. The 400 series is a beast for most tasks compared to a 300. Both are great tractors. 1 of each is the way to go eventually.
  29. 3 points
    Not much to add to the discussion so I'll just say
  30. 3 points
    I am so excited about this new purchase. Cub Cadet is another favorite of mine. Came with a tiller attachment and all the manuals and parts catalog.
  31. 3 points
    this C160 has been a really fun project, I have an extra carb that came with it that I will be cleaning and rebuilding in the next few days… then it’s done. Soooo, this is what all I done to it, new head gasket, hand planed the head, new exhaust valve and hand lapped it. Complete rewire job, new lift bracket with new bushing. Then put a new hood new headlights, used hubcaps, changed all fluids. Now I’ll be looking for a good 3 piece seat and am deciding on wether to install my used, but great shape ag tires. thanks to all who sent me items at shipping cost… EbMaine and RJG854.. you guys ROCK!
  32. 3 points
    I prefer gears, but echo both Ed and Mike's comments above.
  33. 3 points
    Try putting the original carb back on it They only make 2 or 3 sizes of after market carbs and they usually sell them to fit one size up and one size down So the after market carb you have probable has too big of an idle path for your k91.
  34. 3 points
    A 300 series would be great for all of that except maybe the loader. Never owned a loader before so maybe a loader owner will chime in and correct me. For a 42” deck I recommend a 10hp at least. A few guys mow with a 42” and an 8 hp but I think that’s asking a lot of the engine.
  35. 3 points
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    Happy birthday @Shynon, we are glad you were born.
  38. 2 points
    excellent tips on above comments - - here are few more -- many factors contribute to good or poor cut? do you keep the shell housing clean? Do you regularly pressure wash it underneath and/or clean with putty knife? Do you spray the underneath with oil or some similar product to prevent grass build up? do you balance the blades and clean the blades when you sharpen them such as with wire wheel to clean hardened grass sap? do you mow wet or damp grass? how often are you mowing and how tall is grass? Have you removed belt and hand spun the blade/spindles to be sure they turn freely and do you keep your spindles and bearings properly maintained, lubricated and replaced as needed? Are your belts loose and maintain proper tension - Is your deck tension bar and spring properly adjusted to ensure proper belt and blade action? Is the mule tension properly adjusted with One inch belt deflection? Are the mule bearings ok or need replacement causing poor rotation? these are just some quick ideas but there are likely more possibilities others will offer?
  39. 2 points
    I would start with what I call an OSI, or obvious um, "stuff" inspection. Some of these are simple, but this stuff happens often. 1. Are the two gage wheels the same size (and in good shape), or is the bar they ride on straight? My first wheel horse was silly cheap because (mainly) the PO couldn't get it to mow evenly. He made replacement wheels out of plywood and they were not the same. I've also seen well-worn gage wheels that were 3/4 of an inch different in diameter. Those wheels are 100% responsible for keeping the deck level. 2. Make sure you don't have a bent blade. Remove all three and lay them on a perfectly flat surface. Any rocking or gaps will tell you if they are bent. 3. Is the deck body straight? The 42 side discharge is a solid item, but the area around the spindles can be warped with a solid strike to a root or rock. 4. Check your tire pressure, and adjust accordingly. Even though the deck floats independently, if the tractor leans one way or the other enough it can push the deck into an odd track.
  40. 2 points
    Went to the storage building and got all the 520H's and both 312's running. Did not start the 520HC as it is under a tarp with no battery. The Work Horse is currently fully disassembled so it was not started either. Quite a sound with the 4 Onans and 2 Kohlers all running at once. Yes, I had one of the big doors open for at least some ventilation.
  41. 2 points
    Turfs and 2 link vee bar chains for me for woods work(dragging fire wood logs and pulling down leaner blowdowns) and snow removal on unpaved roads. Turfs and rubber chains on paved surfaces. Steel chains are useless on my steep paved driveway.
  42. 2 points
    They call them eraser wheels. Mine looks like this one
  43. 2 points
    Another plus for the pre 300series is the fuel tank is higher than the fuel pump making easier starts. If you are going hydro, And IMO the only way to go for snow removal, A big plus for the 300 series with the Eaton 1100 transmission. The pre 300 hydros will have an older weaker Sundstrand hydro. Another plus, after 1987 the 300 series have Magnum engines...no points, coils, or condensers.
  44. 2 points
    And again... The angled steering tower and less sheet metal overall getting in your way makes maintenance and repairs infinitely easier. 1977 and earlier is what I would look for. C120 or C160.
  45. 2 points
    I have zero experience with them, but have my doubts they would work with the Wheel Horse drive systems where back side idler pulleys and belt retainers are used.
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    When he puts steel wheels on it, try to get us a photo.
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
    I was set with my two year round workers and the sickle bar tractor as well as two 'show" tractors just for eye candy. The Indy 500 and Suburban 400 sat in the barn 98% of the time. I got to thinking about what would happen to them if something happened to me. I wanted them in the right hands and Nancy would have no clue. I decided to find someone who would appreciate them. I went ahead and posted the 500 Special. No bites here but a guy in Mishawaka (Elvis) came over, looked at it and fell in love. He bought it and it now lives in his 3 season porch for everyone on a major highway to see as they drive by. It was a harder decision on the Suburban 400. Again no bites here so I expanded out. The same day I get a call and the guy said 'I think I bought one from you before'. I asked is this Elvis? Yup. Now the suburban sits next to the Indy 500 on that porch. At that point I was comfortable being down to three tractors that get worked. My wife was doing the first mowing with the 76 B-160 and the engine with 57 hours on the rebuild decides to head south. Not prepared to tear into it and needing two mowing machines I find a mint 96 314-H and bring it home. I'm good to go on the workers again I decide to give to life to the 76 and rebirth the B-80 with a @Pullstart K-181. I'm almost done and that's a different thread. I figure I'll park the hydro in the winter and use the 76 as the blade tractor and the 05 will get the blower. With the 76 going again I figure I'm fine with one 'extra' tractor but if one goes it will be the 314-H (not warming up to it). I'm done...................so I thought. Skyping with @stevasaurus we start talking tractors (go figure). He was running out of room and needed to thin his tractors for his boat and other stuff. Before I knew it I was headed to Elgin with a load of firewood and the return trip saw a C-121 and a cool trailer loaded up. I have some spiffy (I think) plans for this one. Disassembly begins later this year hoping for a spring completion date. Back up to 5 So....................the moral of this story is, if you have the addiction you CAN'T fight it. There is no cure so just give in to it.
  50. 2 points
    Don -- i am not the pro artist you are - but here's the hood for my Series 2 from last year in 2023 -- then the final product C175 Series 2 -- I just keep try learning from RSq members the tips and tricks - i did have this hood professionally sand blasted to get cleaned up before i used rattle cans to paint
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