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Just happened to check Craigslist yesterday 7 minutes after a gentleman posted a 418-8 for sale, $400. Picked it up this morning and mowed with it. It has a 42” recycler deck and electric lift. Has an adjustable seat that’s stuck so my short legs barely reach the pedals As I was leaving he said he had a couple more things for it. Turned out to be a set of 50lb steel wheel weights. I’ll be cleaning it up and changing the fluids later today. Need to clean the deck too. I can tell by the way it cuts that’s it’s all clumped up underneath. Loving it so far, other than a big pop when it starts…

Cut the back 40 then did the clean up machine thing

A 3 for 1 here.

How about Battle Ship Gray as a tribute to the U S Navy?

Picked up these brand new Carlisle All-Trails this morning I found on FBM.. now to decide which rig gets em!

Your ride - you decide. But - Green & Yellow are off the table......

This is the last progress on the dump truck till I recover from surgery that I will get on Monday. I got the transmission mount made and the excess angle iron cut off. After my surgery I will dismantle everything so I can flip it over and do the final welding of the frame and frame stiffeners and install the jack shaft supports, brake linkage, and whatever else pops up. I'll have a couple hours in the morning I'll use to clean up and put away tools.

IMO, gear oil with no additives has a long life if it is clean. If you have any indication it may have been contaminated with water or metal chips from a noisy bearing or gear. drain , flush, and refill.

hey Paul - - let me know how the twin runs -- compression - oil use - valves - fuel - etc -- i have TWO C175s -- a Series 1 and a Series 2 -- always looking for insights -- Bill

Steering problem resolved. I need to order 1/2 " heim joints to build the drag link. The drag link shown is temporary for testing.

so the answer to my thread question of how long to wait to apply painters tape to just painted Tractor tins is 24 hrs - I called PPG help line who were very informative -- then went to local Sherwin Williams paint store and the staff there also very helpful - so i bought a yellow Frog Tape product that's is specialized for applying to "fresh " paint - - its labled "delicate" as you can see at top of label in photo attached - i put it on the black grill section i had painted the day prior having been advised to wait 24 hrs --- however, label said it was for latex paint so to be sure the oil based Rustoleum would not go through the thin "delicate" tape - i put the blue Scotch brand tape on top of the Frog tape -- Feeling secure the delicate Frog tape would peel off without damage to the new spray paint from day prior - coupled with the blue tape on top to stop any bleed through - - i proceeded to spray the adjacent area -- The Frog tape came off easily and the grill black paint from day prior was perfect -- none of the red over spray leaked through ---- -- The hood photos show some sun reflection and nearby shadows but came out pretty good - I will wait a few days for more curing to attach the new decals --- thanks for the advice on the above thread ........... Bill

Seasonal de-mousing of the 314 woods beater today. Hadn't been run in a couple months, and when I fired it up got a puff of chaff out the right side. Yeah I know what that usually means, checked for airflow and not much coming out. So parked it in a shady spot and drug out the small wrenches. Air filter cover off and two capscrews out of the inspection (regulator) module, look in with flashlight. Yep, packed full of grass, sticks, seeds, you name it, your basic happy mouse home. Four more capscrews out and pulled the main shroud loose. Picked and poked awhile and blew it out with air hose. Spark wire been chewed on, but still more than half left, sometimes good enough is good enough. Back together it goes and back into service.

Been looking for a Wheelhorse Tub cart and finally found one on FB marketplace for $50. Picked it up today. With a little of elbow grease should get a nice patina out of it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless a leak or mechanical noise dictates draining & dis-assembly, if it is clean & JUST oil, run it. A mess of milky oil means it is contaminated with water, time to drain, flush, new boot and a drain & refill.

Sounds like a "lean" condition for one cylinder... The twins were known to have intake vacuum leaks... Those weights look like Simplicity weights like I have - worth half alone what you paid for all. Looks like it is a candidate for a new set of adjustable tierods... well worth the money...

Best wishes Jay. Hurry back.

@Lagersolut regularly pull my dip sticks , clean and full , once eliminating shift boot issues , mine have been , years since drainage , have had axel seals fail , that makes for a fluid change , my shift boots all have a chassis grease INSIDE the lower edge allowing it to effortlessly slide over the irregularities on the sop of the trans , another detail for longer life , is to put a TYE WRAP , JUST ABOVE a full fit of the boot , have had zero problems , also regularly look things over for any problems . since going to LUCAS climbing gear lube , no noise or shifting issues at all . have a regular tank top off , inspection , check trans , STABIL FUEL ADDITIVE , check engine oil , maybe something itself , plan on a modification fix . never put it back to fail as it was . pete

Just thinking out loud Jay and it's hard to know just from the pics. And I'm no mechanical engineer either. Maybe you should test that steering under load. The leverage length of the new pieces appears like it could possibly bend that steering plate on the Ross system. Try turning it lock to lock on the ground with someone standing on the front of the frame or add a bunch of weight. Traveling will add force against the steering so try to simulate that. The added length going down from the fulcrum point of that Ross steering will make it turn faster too (less steering wheel turning lock to lock). That looses some of the mechanical advantage of the gearing plus it adds quite a bit more leverage force back against that steering piece. Or, it's perfectly fine and I'm over thinking again.

Check this video out from VinsRJ on youtube. He does basically what you're describing and very quickly.

Jest a guess

i painted this 1971 Raider with Rustoleum Farm Implement paint. Used Acetone thinner and Hardener with a FH gun. It'a lot better then Rustoleum spray cans. The main difference is the drys fast, it was painted last year so don't if it will hold up longer.

Great introduction and a wonderful backstory on the life and legend of your Grandfather's Raider. You aren't the first person to run into the dilemma of mounting this type of Kohler where it wasn't born. Fortunately for us Jay @JPWH documented his build including several photos while overcoming this challenge.

@PWL216 very nice pick up on that , might suggest that under deck clean out , break the grungle cycle , want to especially do this before a winter storage set up , have it in an oil soak state , for months , absolutely stops rust , pete

8-10 years Think 8 was in a WH publication My L-107 that father bought in may 1967 is still doing just fine in weekly service running on 40 wt motor oil changed a couple three times...but she has probably only been outside over night 2-3 times in 57 years and never in the rain

All the best!!! Prayers for a successful surgery!

If needed, I have the power steering setup I was going to put on Skittles. You are welcome to it. Might even trade it to you for a seat 😁

Nice score!!! Hope to find one myself one day. Those twins sure do sound good!!

here is a decal disc stripper i bought a few yrs ago and just used for first time - worked well -- it's used in drill motor - it's a soft rubber material - no paint damage

After getting its electric pump, the 16 Onan was not really smooth. Hicupped now and again. I had raised the float to its max with the pulse pump for the inclines and that was now kicking me. Set to stock and she mowed the backyard with ease. No incline was too steep. Incredibly smooth and started immediately. Was excited enough to lubricate the old Snapper RER. Did that, leveling the deck, and then was excited enough to try that guide for sharpening blades and it worked great. Great day! Took the RER then out to enjoy the blade and the magneto died. Really weak spark. It's been 25 years so, can't blame the thing. Sigh. More parts. Not excited.

@wallfish I tried what you show in the picture. I couldn't get enough travel without binding the pitman arm. I will test what I have some more when everything is welded up.

I don't know but the tire is listed as 16x6.50-8 2 ply and a replacement is still available for $648.99. No part number for the wheel listed. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-118070 for wheel and tire. The 2nd kit 8-0494 was available 1998-2000 and replaces 8-0490 80490, 8-0491 80491, 8-0492 80492 and 8-0493 80493

Maybe something like this Maybe @Handy Don can chime in on some thoughts as he's pretty good at figuring stuff out on paper and using his fancy mathmagician skills LOL. Whereas I'm just a trial and error type.

If you want Rustoleum spray cans to dry fast, immediately after spraying the last color coat spray on a coat of Rustoleum Chrystal clear. then a 2nd coat of clear 15 min later. Paint will be dry enough to handle in a couple of hours.

If the HD spindles are a little longer just toss a few washers on the shaft between the inside of the wheel and the gusset. Those are substantially stronger.

I saw a muffler at my local TSC with a 1"inlet that would work nicely in a application like this. They even had the flapper for the top.

Nice stack. Could you tell me more about the old air compressor in the background. Looks like an old Wayne.

I've used both. The biggest difference performance-wise is that "farm implement" has a significantly higher gloss finish on the finished product. It also tends to dry a little slower. If this translates to a more durable finish, it's hard to tell.

Idk if it's the secret to thinning the herd but I did sell my C105 today. It was my 1st Wheel Horse. I need a hydro lift & 2stage snowblower so a C105 just wouldn't do. Local Amish guy bought it. Showed up with cash & a driver with a trailer. Need to make room in garage cause I finally bought a truck & wanna park it inside.

Not really doing it with an actual Horse but the past week I went through all of the spare parts in my shed Got some plastic totes and threw out a bunch of beat up boxes. Found a few things I forgot I had and a triple pulley I needed in June and couldn't find. Made a lot of room without throwing anything away. Wrote everything down and I am going to put it in a file on the computer. When I use or sell something I can delete it.

It's your fault for being at the show an extra day.

I would like to lose a couple…but just today I signed a contract for a new 10x20 shed (room for more!!)

@953 nut and @JPWH, thank y'all so much for responding. I'm going to your 854 rebuild page now to look through it. I spent some time mulling in my shop after making the post and tossed around the idea of drilling the threaded bolt holes of the wheel horse oil pan all the way through to the bottom of it to allow for a long bolt to be installed through the bottom of the oil pan and threaded into the block of the cub cadet long block.

Before you jump into rebuilding you K321 you might consider: Do a leak down test to determine where its leaking bore, valves, etc. Maybe it just needs a good valve job, carbon cleaned of the valve stems and a head de-carbon. On a new to me old tractor I like to pull the head, de-carbon and measure the bore so I know what I have. The pull and clean the carb, open and clean breather, pull an clean valves, relap and adjust valve clearance. Kind of a major maintenance before getting into a full bore overhaul. if you engine has been sitting for a few years, pour same acetone or Marvel Mystery oil down the cylinder and let it soak the rings awhile. Then just run it, getting it up to full temperature for a while, can help loosen up rings that are sticking a little. If you don't have a leak down test and can fine one to borrow from an auto supply at least try to do a compression test. With the compression release mechanism you can't do a compression test in the normal manner. But you can rig up to spin the engine backwards from another engine or electric motor and get good readings. I use an electric motor crudely screwed to a piece of plywood that the tractor front wheel is parked on to hold it in place. I only have to bump the electric motor to spin the engine enough times to get a compression reading. Also before you jump into rebuilding you Sundstrand Hydro. Use it a while now that you've changed the oil and filter. if it was like the used tractor's I find, the oil was probable filthy and neglected. Use it a while, working it to get it fully warmed up so that clean oil can wash some of the crud out to the filter. If it seems to be improving change the oil again after you've put some hours on it. Clean and do a maintenance on the F/R cam speed control area and linkage. sometimes the cam area and linkage are so dirty it can't travel full stroke each direction. Consider pulling and inspecting the 2 little acceleration valves. The small springs in these get messed up and its an easy fix to replace. All this cost you is a few O-rings and maybe 2 correct springs. If your transmission tow Valve is stuck, start soaking it with a good penetrant (Kroil is expensive but worth it for this task) While I like to fix things right, you can see theirs's a bit of old farm boy that comes out of me at times. Check out Aldons great Restoration thread for other GT14 idea!

OK Ed but you have to drive it and wear a Great Gazoo helmet

Uhm... @Pullstart But - Won't need to "build" it... just need to film him cruising... he'll end up upside down sooner or later...