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Not really doing it with an actual Horse but the past week I went through all of the spare parts in my shed Got some plastic totes and threw out a bunch of beat up boxes. Found a few things I forgot I had and a triple pulley I needed in June and couldn't find. Made a lot of room without throwing anything away. Wrote everything down and I am going to put it in a file on the computer. When I use or sell something I can delete it.

Technically I built and painted this the past couple days however I did install it today so I guess it qualifies.. Designed and built a ladder type thingy to acces the attic in our bedroom. I cut the steps with my plasma table and bent them in the benchvise. Welded everything together, bit of paint and there it is. No more climbing up flimsy household steps/stairs. Thanks for watching. Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

IMHO--- Don't even look for those missing parts for the SIDE MULE drive apparatus. It is one of the most cumbersome setups ever to deal with...and hard to find. Better that you UPGRADE to the FRONT MULE DRIVE system including the Tach-O-Matic hardware as part of the UPGRADE. MULE DRIVE UPGRADE.pdf

Hello everyone! Looking for a new tractor to help build a landscape. Anticipate grading, hauling, pushing, and snow removal. Any suggestions? As some of you may remember, I had a c160, which I absolutely loved. So many of you helped me keep her running. I even met my husband over a carb rebuild! Well, I traded her for some home repairs to a lovely Ukrainian gentleman who just fell in love with her. He had that light in his eyes when he saw her. I just couldn't say no. We were planning to move, and honestly there just wasn't room to take her. We have relocated to Geneseo, NY as of 2 weeks ago, and I have 1.5 acres to play with. There is a 312 hydro available locally... and it seems they are pretty common around here, so hopefully we will find the right fit! We welcome your suggestions!

Been looking for a Wheelhorse Tub cart and finally found one on FB marketplace for $50. Picked it up today. With a little of elbow grease should get a nice patina out of it.

I would like to lose a couple…but just today I signed a contract for a new 10x20 shed (room for more!!)

Went to harbor freight today for a few bits and bobs. I had to take a pee and right by the rest room that had their best ICON mechanics creeper with a purple tag at half price. The explanation of what was wrong with it ...open box. Perfect condition otherwise. I am confident that somehow I can manage without the owners manual. Absolutely perfect and I really needed a new creeper. This one with the large outrigger wheels will roll over gravel. Game changer. Well built Metal frame rated to 400 pounds. Getting lucky lately as they delivered a new electric range with a dent that would be hidden and allowed two hundred dollars off

Hood primed and painted. After this dries for a few days I will do the black and clear.

My 312 H is my main worker. The M12 engine and the Eaton 1100 tranny handles a 48" SD deck and a 48" snow plow with no problem. I have changed the 6" fronts to 8" and added a primer bulb in the fuel line for instant starts.

So what you're saying is you didn't build it big enough.

Does not work. 42x80 is still pretty tight.

You don't even wanna try that. You need an end mill with boring bar , unless your lathe and skills are such that you can get your bore precisely centered and perfectly square in every direction to the milling cutter, and I have never seen a hobby lathe capable of that... If your rig or cross slide flexes even .0005 (half a thou) in any direction, your milling job is gonna be screwed up, and I just don't see how you'd achieve that rigidity mounting the block on the bearing plate surface, considering even that may not be perfectly perpendicular to the bore.. (even the cast iron will have a tiny bit of flex to it which is why you'd want it mounted on the base.) I would not even dream of trying to do such a precision job on a lathe.. I'd take it to a machine shop that knows and understands how to do small engine blocks (or at least a speed shop with the precision equipment to do the job) If you have ever seen the machines and set-ups a shop needs to bore out Kohler blocks (Which I have) you'd understand the problems you're facing.. so if you do go ahead and bore that thing on a lathe, and it actually works the way you think, then you should go buy a lottery ticket because that'd be one hell of a stroke of luck!

Can not speak to the question of "how long" but when you decide to do it, check with a parts store or home improvement store. There are less aggressive adhesive tapes available other than the standard painters tape.

If your talking about the sheet metal being cracked in the dark circled area it's pretty common. comes from lifting heavy implements like snow lowers and garden plows. All of the stress when lifting is on that side of the hood stand. The lift tries to push that pivot arm up and out of the tractor.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is the PINNACLE of proper human interaction! Agreed on the 300 series. Be sure to clarify the transmission. One of the others can define this. I believe the "A" is lighter duty than the "H" You could also use other, older models, and be perfectly fine. Lots of 12 HP and up engines out there. BTW.... welcome back.

Should have changed the oil on this Mag 10 right before I pulled it so I could have warned it up. Oh well, drained it “cold” and she now has fresh Rotella.

I love when I get a chance to organize some part of my life!

Wheel horse used Cotter pins E clips and bolts at various times to hold the wheel on.. Clean the up any one should work.

The ones with the gusset are 80s optional HD for loaders or dual stage snowblowers. If the WHEEL SIDE of the spindle is the same length as your own then they'll work fine. Or.... Get a set of 80s wheels.

Idk if it's the secret to thinning the herd but I did sell my C105 today. It was my 1st Wheel Horse. I need a hydro lift & 2stage snowblower so a C105 just wouldn't do. Local Amish guy bought it. Showed up with cash & a driver with a trailer. Need to make room in garage cause I finally bought a truck & wanna park it inside.

It's your fault for being at the show an extra day.

Applying Rustoleum Chrystal clear right over the final wet color coat speeds up the handling/drying time. done it for years but I can't say how tape would work as I haven't sprayed 2 colors. There are folks who will say doing this doesn't work but I've had no issues whatsoever. Must be them!

Back in " The Day " Farm and Implement paint was a cheap Alkyd Enamel usually used on old equipment to get it through the auction. today who knows. The PO painted the hood of my Suburban with Rattle Can Farm and Imp paint from TSC. I painted part of the frame with Rustoleum Regal Red. I don't see a lot of difference in quality.

I'm in agreement with those who say 30 days. But even then, I've had paint lift. Automotive painters tape is no different than house painters tape. The difference is that auto painters are not using oil based paints. They use acrylic urethanes or similar. After 12 hours, the paint is ready to put into service.

Before you jump into rebuilding you K321 you might consider: Do a leak down test to determine where its leaking bore, valves, etc. Maybe it just needs a good valve job, carbon cleaned of the valve stems and a head de-carbon. On a new to me old tractor I like to pull the head, de-carbon and measure the bore so I know what I have. The pull and clean the carb, open and clean breather, pull an clean valves, relap and adjust valve clearance. Kind of a major maintenance before getting into a full bore overhaul. if you engine has been sitting for a few years, pour same acetone or Marvel Mystery oil down the cylinder and let it soak the rings awhile. Then just run it, getting it up to full temperature for a while, can help loosen up rings that are sticking a little. If you don't have a leak down test and can fine one to borrow from an auto supply at least try to do a compression test. With the compression release mechanism you can't do a compression test in the normal manner. But you can rig up to spin the engine backwards from another engine or electric motor and get good readings. I use an electric motor crudely screwed to a piece of plywood that the tractor front wheel is parked on to hold it in place. I only have to bump the electric motor to spin the engine enough times to get a compression reading. Also before you jump into rebuilding you Sundstrand Hydro. Use it a while now that you've changed the oil and filter. if it was like the used tractor's I find, the oil was probable filthy and neglected. Use it a while, working it to get it fully warmed up so that clean oil can wash some of the crud out to the filter. If it seems to be improving change the oil again after you've put some hours on it. Clean and do a maintenance on the F/R cam speed control area and linkage. sometimes the cam area and linkage are so dirty it can't travel full stroke each direction. Consider pulling and inspecting the 2 little acceleration valves. The small springs in these get messed up and its an easy fix to replace. All this cost you is a few O-rings and maybe 2 correct springs. If your transmission tow Valve is stuck, start soaking it with a good penetrant (Kroil is expensive but worth it for this task) While I like to fix things right, you can see theirs's a bit of old farm boy that comes out of me at times. Check out Aldons great Restoration thread for other GT14 idea!

What about automotive painters tape??

BACK The aroma of GUNK carburetor cleaner works every time. Having been a Wheel Horse owner you know a good one when you see it. The Finger Lakes area hasn't seen much snow the past few years but you know it will return. If you can find a package deal with a mower and snow blower that would be ideal. Happy hunting and let us know if we can help.

I sent you pictures of my tractor I have for sale on FB. I have it in the classified here as well. About 40 miles to the east of Geneseo.

Good advice.

Forgot to post pics of my GT-14. We changed battery, oil, fuel filter, trans filter, and trans fluid today. Forgot to grab an air filter. Tractor will now spin tires if rider-less against a tree. Right wheel spins if I'm sitting on it. Doesn't sound great, it will need engine and trans rebuild. PTO clutch is stuck on. Electrical is a mess, have one wire with a break that I have to jiggle with to get it to start. Will throw a wire nut on it until I redo electric.

All back together. Runs. Drives. No leaks. We'll run it. Cool it. Repeat. Then send it home.

I bought these off a local fella last week. They look like they will fit my 160, same shaft diameter, unsure of the length of the ones that are currently on my 160. I have one single spindle and it’s about 1/4 inch shorter than my others, the single one also has c clips that hold in both ends. The one with the gussets has a c lip for the top and a bolt for the wheel side. I’m hoping they will work for my 160 or I’ll have to keep looking and sell the ones I got. Anyhow, any ID or thoughts?

As we move all our parts and spares to the new workshop and barn I've been trying to get a little better organization. Keep sections. Keep like parts together. Even doing some labeling. It's only just begun but already helping.

If you do your search as a phrase in Quotation marks you come up with what you are looking for. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="Farm and implement paint"&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

Well an older lady bought this new so one owner. I bought from her son who told me she went out and bought another lawnmower when the deck of this was seizing up from a bad bearing which I have fixed for another WH I have. He told me it has been sitting for a few years outside and when he tried to start it would not. He was a mechanical inclined guy based on what else I saw around there place he works on so don't trust he did not try to work on this and quit. Just saw no evidence of it being messed with but who knows. I have spent enough and no more time to tear apart til maybe winter here in Western NY when things are quiet. Hoping I will find a running Onan in a good parts tractor I can just transplant into this or just sell along with a few other WH snowblowers I need to get out of my way. We shall see. Anybody want a mystery problem project to buy!....

The " tread forming " sound like some that would not work.. You need a good 1/4" fine tread tap to get good treads for the zerks. I think they are 1/8" There is usually a washer behind the wheel and another just behind the cotter key. The shims would go behind the outer washer. There shouldn't be any side to side movement of the wheel as that will ware the spindle.

This is great! Looks to be a much better system. Purchasing the parts now. Thank you so very much!

I've been dealing with long covid for the past three years. I'm 64 but my body feels and acts like I'm at least 84. I'm nearing the end of a three year project to make the backyard easy to take care of. To achieve that, I cut down 68 overgrown leyland cypresses (about 40-42 feet tall), burning them in the inground pool, getting rid of the pool and a retaining wall, and hopefully, converting the backyard too all grass by September. I'm really struggling to get it ready to plant the grass before the optimum time passes by. It's killing me.Thankfully, my 69 year old wife (she's a cougar) has been helping in every way she can. There's going to be a celebration when this is done.

So it's points and condenser ? It's got a stator but also a coil on the fly wheel

The title of the thread is WHAT DID YOU DO TODAY? We all know that BBT and her mom do all the work around your place, did you at least take the picture?

I agree, more likely something was jammed preventing the deck from lifting and the lift cylinder bent the arm.

Yep. Sounds like the only part left is the carb. Have you done any cleaning/adjusting to the carb? Does it act any different with the choke open vs closed during start up? Any chance the muffler is totally blocked?

This may be a wacky suggestion, but just out of curiosity, take off the air cleaner and spray some starter fluid, carb cleaner or brake cleaner directly into the throat of the carb and see what happens when you try to start it. Before I replaced the carburetor on my 416-H, I could crank it for what seemed like minutes and it would not fire. But a shot or two of brake cleaner fired her right up. If she runs on the "starter" fluid, you have a carb or pump problem.

Picked up a craftsman stand to put my media blaster on and added wheels. Now I just need to build a platform so I can reach it

Trina's friend has a birthday coming up. That friend likes sandpipers. Yesterday Trina got a piece of hemlock from our firewood and split it into several pieces. She chose the flattest one and sanded it on her power band sander. This morning Trina found a pic of a sandpiper and hand copied that in pencil on to the wood. Then she used her wood burner to cut in the lines. All the background work is hand drawn then burned. Some coats of poly and it'll be done.

Thank you for the update Paul. I feel sad that he seemed to be alone through out all the trouble he had. May he have the peace that seemed to elude him in life.

Front end of some Old School Mowing and Yard Art at the Fake Chicken and Tweety bird Ranch!