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I've used this little B-80 for yard tractor for years. Putts around at low idle with my big butt and loaded. 37240281-A59A-45DB-88F3-4F1370A833EB.mov

The Large and the Small. On the way to the Steam Pageant.

Collected our new car today, Toyota Yaris Cross compact SUV

That orange color appears to be caused by the environment, the proof is the orange hair on the lab girl. 🦞. 👩‍🦰

Not quite, but I have a 42SD on my 310-8 that will finish this years mowing. I use the 312 for hauling firewood so it works much better in the woods w/o the deck. Then I'll put the plow frame with the front tiller on the 312 to till up the garden after it is done. After that the tiller comes off and 48" blade goes on just in case we get some snow.

Finally home.

Nice looking tractor. That transmission should be savable. Hear a source for a bearing, seal, & gasket kit. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/base-kit-1-for-manual-transmission/ If the large 1533 bearings are bad then you will need this kit instead. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/kit-1-with-2-1533-bearings-for-manual-transmission/ Inspect your 3rd gear closely. If you question it's condition, post a pic of it & we'll help you decide on its condition. Will mainly need to see the inner teeth of the gear. If you need 3rd gear, this is the only source for a new replacement. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/3523-3rd-gear/ I was able to bring this transmission back to life.

@ri702bill thanks for the shout ! you should also have on stretch pants when you see a red one , food coma , pete

Notice the blue ones too - equally as rare. BUT - they all turn red when ya boil 'em... Yum!! Down this way, close to Pete, is the Mystic Aquarium - they have had several adult blue lobsters donated over the years.

A simple weld should be sufficient. It looks like one end is in that bolt hole. Find the other end and drill it out, just needs to be a small hole, but it needs to be round. If you don't, even after the welding the crack can continue to spread. Drilling it will stop the spread.

EDIT My father passed away just before midnight. Thank you for all you support and reaching out. He was in great spirits right up til the very end. My Ole Man @Qball Bruce was diagnosed with bone marrow cancer a few years ago. He's been fighting the good fight and doing so for all his worth. The past few days have been quite a challenge for him. He went to Dana-Farber Cancer Institute in Boston over the weekend and they are hoping to bring him home tuesday. Some of you have met my father or parents. Believe it or not, there are decent folk even though they raised me. They are Protestant and would love to see your prayers or thoughts. I don't do Facebook or know how it works but if there is such a thing as a page I can share I will do so. I do encourage you folks to share this page by "mentioning" people or a link or whatever. The more the merrier. They would love to hear from you.

Hello all, This GT1642 has been for sale for awhile... Too much $$$ So I offered a straight trade tractor and deck for tractor and deck and they bit. 414-8 for GT Workhorse As far as help... anybody got a clean appropriately aged / patinaed rear work horse fender they want to sell or trade. Im no good at painting and it would never match anyways Briggs and Stratton--The POWER in power equipment! 20240806_163106.mp4

Hello,,new here,,greetings from the frozen tundra of NW Ontario.I just acquired this 633. I’ve wanted one of these for years just because i like their appearance. This one came up on FB so hooked up the wagon and dragged it home,,,cuz the rear end is locked up. The tractor is complete but the fist full clump of poop that came out of transaxle not good. Not sure how i will deal with this…a good used transaxle would be ideal. I do have a Sears SS12 4speed that i could cobble on but id rather not as im not in any hurry and the SS12 is complete machine. My only purpose for the machine will be for pulling a cart occasionally, possibly a mower deck or grader blade.

Fender clear coat applied. Left side cover clear coat applied. Right side cover clear coat applied.

https://wgme.com/news/local/rare-orange-lobster-donated-to-une-has-babies-university-new-england-maine-biddeford-girard-marine-science-center

Isn’t it ironic, her name is Ruby?

New set screws would help. Don't use regular bolts The cup on the end of the set screw is what digs in and holds. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/alloy-steel-square-head-cup-point-set-screws/?s=square+head+set+screw

Dodging T storms. Got the first load up to the Steam Pageant.

Update on the “Up/Down” dilemma. I consulted the schematics and discovered the previous owner had the lift chain and lift trunnion in the wrong positions on the bellcrank and lift bar. I put things back to the schematic drawing and everything works as it should. In the photo the blue line represents how he had it and the yellow line shows the correct attachment positions. Don’t ask me why that would make such a change, but it does. Now I can take my homemade labels off. @Handy Don you may want to check the routing on your two and see if that is also the problem.

Try shutting it down with the throttle wide open full I know this sounds counterintuitive but it worked for me

@Ed Kennell what a concept ! good for you ! have 3 decks on rotational line , probably put one to sleep soon my self , pete

From the 1978-79 service manual. After a few minutes of driving retorque the set screws. Again after a 1/2 hour of driving Again after an hour. Again after 2 hours until you are confident the torque sticks. Gives the parts time to settle in and stabilize. The lock nut should be just snugged up, Any tighter tends to pull the set screw back out and you lose the applied torque.

Fred - Welcome!! Looks to be fixable - seen a lot worse. Figure on the 4 seals, a case gasket, maybe more. Check the condition of the second / third gear - the engagement surface is usually worn to a point where it jumps out of gear under load. The is a great tutorial on rebuilding these here on RS. Look under Tutorials / Transmissions 5085 Transmission Rebuild. Internal parts are available, but it can be a tad pricey..... Not an overly difficult job, just messy...

as it left the Factory.......

Just took the 48SD off the 312H. Brushed the grunge out, oil draining bath, sun bake, and put to bed for the winter.

Before I get into this, I want to yell out a big THANK YOU to all the Wheel Horse Forum members who in one form or another contributed to this thread or elsewhere with their ideas. Again, THANK YOU! Kelsey My first photo in this thread, was to be a bit humorous because WH tractor owners have been in the past a bit frustrated in one way or another with WH maintenance. I know I have been. The wooden model was presented to the fabricator shop along with a well detailed set of plans. The fabricator laughed at the model. He said scaled plans were easy to read and understand. Almost 2 weeks later was when the hub puller was ready. Back in early July, I started soaking the hubs with Kroil in all vertical/horizontal positions possible. I wanted to try this hub puller style because I didn't want to break the cast hub. I just couldn't feature the frustrations I'd had if I did. The frame is 1/2" stock with a welded 1-1/8" nut along with an 8" fine thread bolt. Also, 3/4"x8" flat bars were drilled out on center to 1 1/8" to wrap around the shaft prior to final assembly. First photo, the 3/4" stock had about a 1/16" between the transmission and the hub. The Mapp gas torch was on target for almost an hour. The 1/2" plated tweaked a little bit along with 3/4" stock. Second photo, hub is slowly moving. Third photo, torch back on 30 minutes or so and then moved. Fourth photo, hub just about off. Fifth photo, different angle. Sixth photo, hub's off. Seventh photo, 3/4" stock is tweaked. Reversed on 2nd hub removal. Eighth photo, part's group photo. Ninth photo, overall picture Same sequence for 2nd hub removal. Also, sprayed penetrating oil on bolt prior to be torqued. Each side was ~ 2 hours by hand torquing along with 6-pound hammer for persuasion. Next day or so, I think the keyways popped right out because of the Kroil. The only modification I'd like done is to replace the nut and bolt with an 3/4" ACME rod and nuts. It appears that the bolt is galled. I enjoyed doing this arduous task out in the 90' weather along with those treacherous mosquitos biting me in those places where I couldn't reach. My bride helped me out too. Man, I love her!

@ri702bill we were in BERMUDA , had a black sea bass , sliced like a thick steak , lobster , pass out , pete

Just had an American pancake stack with crispy bacon and maple syrup at a Barnsley tea room. I'm guessing it may not be the same as served in the US but it was very tasty and filling. Five pancakes was more than enough for me ...

I do have a drill press so will look into this. Thank you

If you have only one set screw per hub, add a second one as shown above.

I did some more lay out today and I think I have the wheel base down to about 74" and a steering angle of about 40° - 45°. According to the turning radius calculator that should give me about a 6' - 6 1/2' turning radius. I think that is pretty short for a two seater dump bed and keep the dump truck look I am after. I will have to make a couple design changes but had ran short on a couple pieces of metal and needed to visit the metal shop anyway.

Thank you! That's very helpful to know I did not think of it possibly spreading further or that simply drilling a hole at the end will stop it. I personally don't do the weld I just have the farmer down the road do it but try to have all the prep done before I head down. Greatly appreciate the feedback.

Do I see mowing stripes in that grass?? I like it!

Yeah. Got the little pusher out for it's once a year run!

@Howard dellapuca / @857 horse Knows a guy who makes super wide wheels. I don’t think he’s on here but they were selling at the Big Show in ‘22. Here he has a set of tires stretched on a super wide wheel. He was explaining something to my daughter about the seat… they were good buddies all through the show!

Hoppy Birthday @sjoemie himself

I’ve had a GT-1800 since new, I always let it run at an idle for at least 30 seconds before shutting it down.Actually I do this with most of my tractors. Does yours have the factory muffler?

I have pans... too much rust... in desperation I may pick best one. Thank you very much for offer

Maybe.

@Sparky have any trees with a HEAVY Y BRANCH SET UP ? chain fall, heavy cargo straps , easily over power that curve , another thing about that , is a STEERING QUADRANT SERVICE , possible lever upgrade , recovered a number of blades , hint , heim joints , pete also my regular deck drying , have no baffles under my decks , zero rot / rust , regularly de grunge them , pete

Will look into. Thanks

I just acquired an Allis Chalmers B-110 which was built between 1968 and 1972. While coaxing it back to life, it playfully reminded me that it had no safety switches by starting to climb onto my foot with the front wheel while I was jumping the starter. Forgot to put in neutral before I started to work on it. Think I'm going to add a starter relay with a safety switch on the clutch so it needs to be depressed before engaging the starter.

I have not. I do have an axle seal that needs replacing so i am going to do both and i guess i will get new set screws also. Thank you

Good pictures! No it is not supposed to be bent. Take it apart and you should be able to straighten it so that it fits properly.

Have you removed the wheel hubs and cleaned the axle and inner hub bore? Are the set screws new?

Nice day out. Gettin the "fleet" ready for the Steam Pageant!

Label duly earned, for sure!

I took four 7 1/2" wide rims and cut them apart to make two 11 1/2" rims. One set of the rims did not have the correct off set for a , this didn't matter cause I was going to cut the centers out of them anyway. I marked them on the inside where I wanted to make my cut. To get the cut strait I jacked a tractor up, bolted the rim on, fired the tractor up, put it in high gear to spin the rim, then made my cut with a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel on it. "My Red Neck Lathe" After the cuts were made I removed the center from 2 of the rim halves & welded the rims back together. Followed by grinding the welds smooth inside and out. Leak detector spray showed that my welds were sealed air tight but I decided to run tubes any way. When completed I fit the rims with 26x12x12 tires. Here is one other more expensive option. Rim blank and the center disc will allow you to adjust the off set to your liking. https://www.millertire.com/products/wheels-by-type/lawn-garden-wheels/12x10-5-rim-blank/ https://www.millertire.com/products/wheels/lawn-garden-wheels/12-rim-center-disc-5-hole-concave/

Don't forget almost all 5 lug 12" garden tractor wheels are the same bolt pattern and can be used to get some different widths and backspacing. Just have to check what backspacing will fit your application and valve stem placement too. Randy