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@WHX??That oil is a special formula exclusively for Tecumseh engines only. Because they all end up being air compressors. LOL.

Getting ready for Symco with @Achto And @WHX?? and the gang! Frank got an oil change, and like the WHRat ( @SylvanLakeWH ) a cup holder! The other day Mrs. P. said it was the only thing Frank was missing. Well not now!

I've followed this yearly auction for a couple of years. It's always interesting to see what people consider really rare and what they pay for them. On the flip side the more somewhat common one don't ever seem to bring much at this auction. I checked with the moderator and they approved posting this since this auction has passed. https://bids.aumannauctions.com/auctions/30231-2024-garden-tractor-consignment-auction

This chart gives a quick glance at oil ratings done by the API. Anything above SA would be fine for our splash lubricated engines but I don't think I would use anyt5hing without a "S" or "C" rating. The American Petroleum Institute (API) is the authority when it comes to setting standards for motor oils used in gasoline and diesel engines. Gasoline engines are classified under Category S, indicating "Spark Ignition", while diesel engines fall under Category C, indicating "Compression Ignition". Each category is followed by a letter, reflecting the oil's technological advancements. For gasoline engines, API specifications range from SA to SH, with higher letters representing newer technologies. Oils with specifications from SA to SH are typically suitable for engines manufactured before 1995. However, it's important to note that higher specification oils can be used in place of lower ones. For example, an oil with specification SP can be used for engines requiring API SN, SM, SL, and SJ.

Couldn't have said it any better!

Does oil interact with the correct paint colors?!

Interesting bid numbers there. I've participated in two online auctions. The first was several years ago and thanks to Redsquare.. I was notified. I set up what I believe is a reasonable MAX BID for every Lot I'm interested in. Most Lots I let ride out and if I "win" so be it. Some Lots I'll adjust the price... a little... towards the end of the auction. At the first auction Trina and I got a whole 26 ft uhaul truck filled, and 3 more trips later with our own 5 x 8 trailer. Total price was just over $600 including rental, fuel etc. We made that back just from Redsquare members alone and nearly giving away the pieces at that.

And that is why I use Shell Rotella in all my outdoor 4 cycle engines....

That's air compressor oil. Don't use it in an engine.

SAE 30 just means it's weight (viscosity) at 32° or higher. Got to look at the API rating on the bottle if any. I wouldn't use it. Kohler says to use Detergent oil in all of their engines. I bet Briggs does too. Non detergent oil should be used in non combustion applications like compressors and pumps.

Hmmmm. Great idea! I have a few bicycle water bottle holders somewhere...

Trina and I went for a mountain bike ride this morning. Total milage 7.4. Elevation gain almost 700 feet. The top portion of the triangle in green below is almost all old colonial cart roads or snowmobile trails. All dirt. The bottom of the triangle and the separate leg is asphalt road. Start & end point is the blue dot 🔵

Kohler says Detergent oil. That's what I use. Use what you like. Results may vary. I use Rotella 30W year round. I bought my C-160 with 700 hrs. on it. It smoked like crazy. Oil was as black as I ever saw it. I put some kero in the crankcase and spun the engine by hand to swish it around then drained it. Chunks of sludge came out. I theorized it had non detergent in it for a long time. Put in the Rotella and 300 hrs. later the piston broke. The inside looked like this. Again run whatever the hell you want.

Mike, I thought that with your connection to NAPA, you may have seen this: NAPA SAE 30W Non-Detergent Motor Oil That info, along with Brian Miller's thoughts on oil, and those of many old-timers (older than me) have convinced me to keep using non-detergent oil in older Kohler engines. HOWEVER...there is always that school of thought that says replace your oil every spring and fall, and it doesn't matter what you use.

Nice work!

Right, wrong or indifferent, I’ve used it too. Not all the time, but I’ve made the executive decision that most likely I’ll live to talk about it.

Looks like Bear Fondue.

Update: replaced the spark plug and everything runs just fine. At full throttle and blades engaged it runs fine. No more backfires or popping.

You would need to ask our resident lube specialist, he greases everything in sight, even paint.

No you're not! ... You're just a guy who has all the C160s ever sold within 200 miles of your home!

@Mickwhitt think todays drivers are just brain dead , very scary out there , no signals , no courtesy , no on car warning given for anything . watch people drive into interstate traffic , at 40 mph ! not a clue ! today there multiple cars/ trucks just caught up in not knowing where they are going , or how to get there . more interstate , driving thru , railings . cabling , down into traffic buffers . much more interested in the cell phone , than what's going on . car mirrors , ? what are they for ? pete

The height adjusting knob (really a minimum height limiter) has no effect on the mower, which gets adjusted using the gauge wheels. It might be useful with a front dozer/snow blade, a grader mid-blade, or any implement using a rear lift hitch (slot or sleeve). Not all WH models had one from the factory.

I did end up buying the tractor, the engine started right up, no smoke, no evidence of any leaks. It had been repainted and needs a bit of work but it not anything I don't think I can handle. The parking brake doesn't engage, I think it's just an adjustment to the cable or mechanism, it moves easily and you can feel it start to catch but doesn't hold and pops forward. My one concern is the height adjustment knob is missing from the dash like the restorer lost it and just put it back together without it. Anyone with a 312-8 know how hard it would be so source one and how difficult it is to install? or do I even need one, the lift lever works fine but I do want to eventually get a tiller not sure if that requires the additional adjustment Aside from those it definitely needs the brakes replaced, after that I think I'm good to go Thanks, Jim.

i used brass bushings no flange, drilled to 5/8". That was 25 or 30 years ago still working no looseness, did the same with the PTO shaft. This is a picture of the bushing in the PTO shaft, don't have one of the clutch shaft.

that and you change your oils on time and keep the engines clean. what is the zinc and phosphors levels in the Kohler oils? MSDS says 9-10%. 1000 ppm. ?? Good number from what I read. Just crazy. Jim I thinks you poured from the wrong jug, looks like shine

I know that my current can of 10% farm support gas is the summer blend, but while cleaning a pan of engine bolts yesterday my hands turned white despite only minor contact with the stuff. I have been using gas for cleaning like that for over half a century and never experienced that degree drying. Yes, I should be using gloves to handle this save the earth product.

Could you just weld up the LSD diff to lock it and put it back in using the same bearings? Lotsa damage from the grinding teeth floating around. Even the pinion carriers seem a bit gouged out. I suspect that reduced engagement between the pinions and the axle gear is what led to an initial slip and then wreckage.

" Blue Hairs"

A step bit is useful to open up an existing hole on center..

My neighbor put a windmill just like that along the road with a free sign, I got it and placed it over the well as a visual aid when backing trailers around.

I like this train of thought... Next time you take your plug out, take a look through the hole with a good flashlight, look for any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. If you see a lot of carbon, it might be time to remove the head for a closer look and thorough cleaning, I'd recommend replacing the head gasket, and flatten the head while you're at it.

The side plates on the 8 speed diff I used for the pictures fit in the 1533 bearings. Unfortunately I have no idea what tractor that parts transmission came from. PS I call dibs on any salvageable parts from that 6 speed diff if you ever ready to turn it loose. Especially those pinion carriers.

Took my truck and the wheel horses down to the local car show today. Also brought down some custom atvs and a go cart I built for my buddy.

Someone got the C160 for $187. Someone bought a JD patio beat up POS for $10 less. LOL You should definitely shop there since no one knows what a WH is. 953 went for $187 too.

Grasshopper, You just graduated to yellow belt front yard hammer mechanic! LOL

I have been using SAE 30W, non-detergent oil in all of my non-filtered Kohler's since 1993.

I may have you covered here. Are the two that leak newer models? I've tried about every type of gas can on the market today. They all are 100% junk. Finding older, pre 'safety' cans is nearly impossible. I bought a Jerry can about a year ago. I was pi@$# when it leaked gas all over my shoe. Here is the culprit. That triangular shaped hole is an engineers way of turning a great can to 100% junk. It the 'safety' vent. It leaks. But it's an easy fix. I cut and rounded a small piece of metal and affixed it with JBWeld. Another coat of JB and that's done. You MUST put one of those little flip up vents on the top of the can. Bingo! A good old fashioned Jerry can. Some of the newer cans can be improved by installing a flip vent and I've done that to five cans. But the nozzles suck. It almost makes it a 2 person job to fill a tank without spillage. I use those cans (just filled 4 with booze free) but only to transfer the gas to the Jerry can under ideal conditions. Only then does the tractors get filled. The Jerry can nozzle flexes where I want it and actually stays there. 🙂

Here you go. Currently it’s not operational. This thing drove for the first time in 15 years this past week. I have yet to tinker with the hydraulics. Although I’m timid because I’ve never worked on hydraulics before. I picked this thing up for $150. Score!

Just had to it...history buff here... The term "jerry can" originated during World War II as Western desert army slang for German liquid containers. The British used the term "jerry" as slang for Germans and captured the cans from them, calling them "jerrycans". The British preferred the jerry cans over their own containers because of their ribbed design, which made them less likely to leak in harsh conditions. The cans were also lined with an impermeable plastic that allowed them to be used for either water or petrol. Wikipedia Jerrycan - Wikipedia The interior was also lined with an impervious plastic, first developed for steel beer bar... Direct Water Tanks The History Of Jerry Cans - Their Crucial Role in World War II Jan 12, 2023 — It was called “jerry” from the American US Forces slang term “Jerry” for Germa... The Guardian What is the origin of the name "jerry"? As in: jerry can. | guardian.co.uk Second World War. Western desert army slang for German liquid containers; hence 'jerry can... Other theories about the origin of the term include: Jerry-built The term may come from the British mocking German contraptions that were hastily assembled, or "jerry-built". Chamber pot or jeroboam The term may come from the German military helmet, which some say resembles a chamber pot ("jerry") or a jeroboam (a large wine bottle). Shortening of German The term may be a shortening of the German word for the container, the Wehrmachtskanister. Generative AI is experimental.

The question is "what really works as far as oils go?" We know ZDDP helps with anti wear on flat tappets, but how much is enough? Is more better? IDK Old school thinkers gravitate in the more is better zone. With good maintenance on air cooled engines, I have seen some well into the 2000 hour range and running strong. No special oils etc. I would think modern engine oils contain plenty of anti wear science and will preform. That thinking is confirmed by engine builders using "break in oils" in place of modern high tech synthetic oils. Two other bigger players in my mind is heat and contamination. Having an oil that transfers heat is a good choice. Changing the oil before contamination increases to a destructive level is a best practice. Uncle JIM...save that oil for the compressor or sewing machine! It is not the right stuff.

There is a screw in the back, remove it and out comes the spool, simple as it gets. Replace the o-rings on the hose connections, if it has them, while it is out.

Also " Losing Hairs "

Bill D is correct - what you have there is NOT suitable for use in gasoline engines - it is mineral oil base. It is a hydraulic oil. Note that it does NOT list an API rating found on motor oil (API SL for instance)

Installed a NOS replacement belt guard and a reconditioned heat shield on the 401:

Went out to take a pic for side-shot Sunday and this one didn’t care I was there 😳 IMG_0325.mov

My 310-8 lights only came on if the engine was running. Flipping the switch with the engine off did nothing, regardless of key position. My $.02: This tractor is 30 years old. Even if the hours are somewhat closer to accurate, it's not so bad. If a large chunk of those hours came from leaving a switch on, even better for you. The hour meter is a nice option, but is not necessarily a true indicator of overall health. Especially true given how it can be energized by leaving the key on. If the machine was properly maintained, it still has many years of life left in it.

Did he come out of the house or the bushes?