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Bought out a Wheel Horse dealer's inventory of manuals and parts back in 2003. Kept a lof of interesting stuff and thought I would share a 1964 version of "Stable Hints". I've got a binder of these unique items that cover intracompany correspondence, Interchangeability lists, Wheel Horse Factory Service School manuals for several years, etc. Just thought I would share one to see if the group would like to see an additional internal Wheel Horse documents.

Hi Red Square Community, I am looking into purchasing the below pictured "POND" Walk Away. The unit itself has the cast in “POND” on the chain reduction housing. The two main things I am looking to learn are what value is typical for these to sell for. This one has a Briggs & Stratton model “N” engine. It runs and drives, but the throttle linkage needs some adjusting. It comes with a cultivator and plow implement. Secondly, I was wondering if there is any way to determine what year specifically this Pond is from. The seller believes late 1940s and not 1950s. I am new to these machines, so I am looking for some guidance. Thank you in advance!

Band Brakes as used on WH are self energizing when you stop going forward they work against you stopping in reverse. Big reason not to haul heavy loads behind WH if you have to stop going backwards

Today I mainly went crackers... After looking at various different cars and options we decided to buy a nice new mini SUV. We have ordered a Toyota Yaris Cross, which is a really nice self charging hybrid. Two weeks and we will have a nice new car to drive around in. Lots to learn as it's a completely different driving experience to a stick shift.

Very cool! That same rear end is what was used to invent the RJ25 and RJ35 riding garden tractors as we know them! I don’t think they normally sell for much, but they are a very important piece of our Wheel Horse history!

Here is a short video of me test driving my 1941 Farmall H before I bought it. It had a temporarily fuel tank since the original one needed cleaned. I got the hood and the original fuel tank when I brought it home a few months after this video. As I mentioned, I was talked out of it by a child hood friend who said he used his uncle's H when he was a kid. I hadn't got used to the gears yet on this H in this video, so didn't shift it into the higher gears as I was test driving it. But all 5 gears worked plus the reverse. That thing could get up and move in road gear.

Exactly If you look at the way the band is anchored and wrapped around the drum you’ll see that, when going forward, once the band is engaging the drum it’ll tend to tighten itself even further. That’s “self energizing”. In reverse, the drum tries to unwind/loosen the band. I believe that another factor is that for a given ground speed on the 3- and 6-speed transaxles, the drum turns more slowly (and in the opposite direction) than it does on the 8-speeds (the band does always wrap in the self-energizing direction for forward motion, though 😁).

That tab is more for keeping the belt on the pulley then to grab the belt. Back off the brake adjustment.

Is that Adrain Mo? If so I was there, I was the kid riding around on a

Put cart back together and took her for its maiden voyage around the barn. She looks right at home behind the 701... Still waiting on decal from redoyourhorse.com...

Installed a couple fresh pieces of pipe , a new clamp , and a NOS showerhead to replace the incorrect Briggs style muffler :

Pete and others on here advocate an "oil treatment" for underneath the mower decks for preservation purposes - i am currently doing a deck rehab -- i have typically cleaned rust off to bare metal by either having deck sand blasted... or by using 90 degree grinder disc to "sand" off rust -- then primed and painted. However, i recently got a deck that was in solid condition - no rust through holes, no fractures, or damage, with just modest rust underneath -- so i am trying the oil sun baking treatment to rehab the bottom of deck -- Pete has previously suggested baking in sun for "absorbtion" into metal . I was wondering others experience with this strategy but also... specifically.... how long in the sun to bake the oil -- and is one treatment adequate or multiple? thanks

Please come and join us for the Carolina Fly-Wheelers High Country Crank-Up on July 25-27, 2024 near Boone, NC.

Put the duals on my B-60 to get ready for the Zagray summer show. Switched the front tires to tri ribs since the old ones only held air for about a hour. Polished up the hood and fenders checked all the fluids and greased and ready to go! Also yesterday got my dad’s tractor “MaTer” running for the show. Hope to see some of the New England guys there! IMG_8800.mov IMG_2100.mov

From the Kohler service manual

Wheels out in the sun to dry the paint.

I bought mine at Princess Auto but I see Harbor Freight sells them as well. There are also lots on ebay. https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-paint-shaker-94605.html?_br_psugg_q=paint+shaker I mounted mine loosely on a patio stone to hold it. When I am not using it I just lift it off of the concrete anchor bolts and bring it inside. It would be nice to have inside but I was afraid of doing damage to my shop due to the intense shaking. Also if a paint can ruptures and sprays paint around I would prefer it to be outside.

Wheels clear coated.

Haven't had any noise or lubrication related problems, all my pto cones get rebuilt before i use them. My problems have mostly centered around cracks, thin metal.

@Retired Wrencher https://e-rigging.com/blogs/how-to/eye-bolts-essential-lifting-hardware , easy to make up from this starting point , my own personal take on old bearings , is to replace and clean out / regrease , 550 drop point polyurea grease , have these in use for years now , no bearing related anything , whyining , bouncing ( hang up ) always detail in related linkage , added washers , to firm up start point , red grease , make the rust run out , very typical for me to see , solid , bone dry , movement areas , really ? guy I sold a tractor to , thought anything he touched , was broken ! reality was complete ease of movement , function ! really flipped out on smooth / easy , throttle / choke cables , basic stuff , pete

This was just a 150 horse tractor!!!

Put a set of 24 12 12 on 10 inch rims, The rims had a little deeper back-set unlike the shallow ones WH used and I had to put spacers on so the tire did not contact the hydro brake. C141 plenty of room under the fender tho. I would be concerned if using a mower,. gauge wheels might hit the tires. this one is for looking and not cooking.

Growing up on the farm in Iowa I remember back in the 60's the biggest tractor my dad had was a Farmall Super MTA. It was unique because it had a small gas engine you would start first, then dad would pull / push a couple levers at the same time (no idea what they did) and the diesel engine would roar to life with a huge plume of black smoke. I always got a huge kick out of that procedure. He pulled a 4-16 plow (one of the largest in that day) with ease on that tractor.

As we here know, one can get a lot done with 8-12 hp. Often the limiting elements are traction and the strength of the chassis.

Real tractors horse power was measured at the belt pulley and/or the drawbar. It was effective horsepower not engine brake hp. Nebraska state university designed and conducted the test...(A Nebraska state legislator had gotten scammed by a tractor he bought back in the 20s He got a law passed that any tractor sold on Nebraska had to have been tested. Since all the big manufacturers sold a lot of tractors in Nebraska they all submitted tractors for testing.

My Bronco has a Magnum muffler. No fitment issues at all. C-120 should be no different.

Had a blast this year even in the heat. Thanks to all who help put on this show and everyone attending. Highlight of my summer. VID_20240622_101814103.mp4 VID_20240622_102904825~2.mp4

Some of the smaller details that caught my eye... 60’s style cables Lotsa wheels with axle bolts Creative re-use of an early snowblower shell

These are 28X12 on 10.5 rims but I made them fit with gt14 rear tins. No spacer and they clear the trailer hitch mount.

There is a small hole that goes into the breather area. When honing, grit will end up in here. Never had an issue with one eating itself. I do change oil a lot at first. Like after 15 min, then again after an hour, then after a few hours, then switch to your permenant oil. The cast iron is pretty soft on these motors,so they do tend to shred some during break in. Also chinese parts for these K series are usually out of spec to begin with. You have to machine the engine for the parts instead of the other way around.

Where did you get that from? I'd like to buy one.

ok, i think i found a place to turn it, ill have them turn the one i have then.

@Achto, I found this crank on eBay, and the othor one says .934 that is 1 thou below new wear correct? would that be a good one to get?

Yessir. Donkey engine. I've never seen one used in real life. I've watched videos of them many times.

Those are on a 10" rim, they were hard to stretch that wide, they would be easier to mount on 8.5"s.

24x12-12 airlock. This was a 520 under the black hood & kohler.

I do not have a separate paint department, it is I...and I do not like painting so repaint is out of the question...

These are tractors ..tools ... For tools red is red

C120 special says...tecky no more! I also never could find out if the hood will fit...and Magnum mufflers will not work... So went to a round muffler.

Thanks guys! Yes… I wish you would’ve bought the bucket. I probably would’ve bought a handful😊

Front of hood cleaned up to have holes put in by some PO welded up. Bottom of hood cleaned up to get welded where it is torn on both sides of the bottom re-enforcement plate. I will be adding the brace that the later models came with to prevent this happening again. All decals removed.

It looks to me like your input pulley on the trans is a bit rusty. If the engine drive pulley is like that also, they might be your issue. Clean them up with a wire wheel, wipe them with Mineral Sprits and wipe the belt also. The guide on the tention pulley is just fine...it just keeps the belt on that pulley.

The belt dust on the guard looks like that idler tab might be riding on the belt when it's engaged. Bend it up a tad

I figure that seat has served its time working and belongs on a restore for a show tractor.

I have all the engine parts and the clutch in a bucket.

The most important thing is that the seat is shaded so that you don't get burns on your butt. Seat time is no fun with blisters.

Yes it did. I bet at WOT it would knock you off your feet

Eric was the guy who bought the 701 I had for sale. I was very pleased it went to one of the original members! He has quite a collection. Tell him hello From Rick from Georgia.

Let the fun begin! Loaded up at home @Blasterdad and I having sammiches at the Somerset service “Plaza” Snacks while we wait for tractor friends @squonk trying to run over @rjg854 @stevebo pulling in My brother @Tractorhead, all the way from Bavaria! Norman sitting at the Quality Inn, waiting for tractor friends to come by… A sweet set of RJs, I missed who’s. Dinner plans got a little messed up. A big group of blue hairs took our Italian Village table, so we had to scramble a bit. Right down the road @buckrancher, Mrs. Buckrancher, Bryon, Stephan and @Handy Don and I found some good hearty home cookin’ at Hickory Ridge. TWINNING! Fellowshipping with the friends