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Figured it was time I start a post on here documenting my addiction! Here are two of my favorites

Pulled one of my 953's out of hibernation, or should I say pushed. The only way I could get it to run while it was in my fake garage was by spraying gas down it's throat. Pushed it into the work shop, pulled the bowl off from the carb & found it dry as bone. While the bowl was off I worked the primer handle on the fuel pump and got nothing up to the carb. Not going to bother rebuilding the fuel pump. Instead I started prepping to install an electric fuel pump. I did this on my other 953 and have not regretted the decision.

I moved the snow machine to the long term shed where she can hibernate for the summer. Fixed the 312-8 internitten starting problem. By the marks on the starter, the PO blamed it on the starter. It was actually a loose seat switch connector that made it a $175 roller.

Today's menu - Get this baby ready to light the fire. In order to do this I needed to have "dead man" throttle control. My plan is to turn the brake peddle into the gas peddle. Gathered the basic parts to make this happen. Starting with a piece of pipe that I bought for some reason. Guess this must of been the reason. I did not think that I would be able to weld to the cast metal that the peddle is made of very well, so the piece of pipe gave me some thing to weld to. I cut the threaded ends off from the pipe and the cut it length wise so that it would fit the curve of the brake peddle. Then cut the rest of the parts to make this into a gas peddle. Next up, burn these parts together. Drilled and tapped the peddle so that the assembly could be bolted in place. 2 more pieces required to make this work, a bracket to hold the throttle cable, and a bracket for a positive stop. All three completed. Gave all these parts a quick squirt with some flat black to keep from rusting. Adjustable wide open positive stop installed. Throttle cable holder and foot peddle bracket installed, with a return spring for the peddle. Also installed a return spring on the engine side of the throttle. I think the weed eater piston shift knob turned out well. With these parts installed it was time to light the fire. Good news!! It fired right up. Runs great and runs through all the gears well, butt... the strait pipe is loud and and um, loud!!! A few shots of it out in the sun light. Only thing left now is the fire suppression system "fire extinguisher" and scale it out to get the weight dialed in.

Thinking about changing over to electric fuel pump as well on my 953. Most the fuel line is copper & I'm not really happy with how it's routed- kinda janky. It rubs sometimes on the hydraulic lift arm. Surprised cause the restoration of the tractor is so nice.

Model T Fords on the farm The concept of the tractor conversion kit was rather straightforward, you removed the running boards, rear fenders, and rear wheels then installed the kit and your mode T Ford became a tractor to aid those who wished to go to horseless farming. When the weekend came you removed the kit, reinstalled the running boards, rear fenders and wheels and went shopping and visited grandma after church on Sunday. Simple right? I doubt that many farmers actually converted the tractor back to a car very frequently. Staude Mak-a-Tractor conversion was one of best-known conversions manufactured to transform you Model T Ford into a tractor. It was produced by E.G. Staude Mfg. Co., St. Paul, Minnesota in 1917. The Smith Form-a-Tractor was another popular conversion at the time. As was the case with most other conversion kits, the Smith kit had a sub-frame running from the front axle to the rear axle of the car and an additional non-driven axle forward of the Ford rear axle. Two small male-drive-gears would replace the rear wheels and a pair of ten-inch-wide steel drive wheels with large bull-gears mounted to the non-driven axle would propel the tractor. A substantial gear reduction was achieved by these two gears. A dozen or more companies manufactured tractor conversion kits, Tractorize Trail Blazer, 20th Century, Tractor Supply, Geneva Adapto-Ttractor, Unitractor and 3-P Autotraction are but a few of them. Kits were built between 1916 and 1928, by then more tractors had come to market. Me-Go, convertible tractor manufactured by Convertible Tractor Co., St. Paul, disappeared shortly after development. There are too many others for one post so tomorrow we will see a few more ways to make a model T collector cringe.

I got my first wheel horse way back for $50, for a similar reason. PO changed the solenoid and starter. But he apparently didn't notice the large green blob of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. I had it running 10 minutes after I got it home. It sat in a barn for two years before I bought it. And now:

Hopefully winter is over. Took plow off 654 & put mower deck on. Grass was so tall I couldn't put off mowing anymore. We've had so much rain so ground is soaked! I made a bit of a mess mowing. That old mower deck does cut nice. I sharpened blades & greased it

My Son's mowing tractor. We bought this at the big show many years ago.

Trina's mom has power since this morning. We went down there for a bit to clean up and get some more water. Charge a few things. We took some pics when we left, late morning. The first 8 are from within a quarter mile of our house. VERY SERIOUS DAMAGE. The others are spread out down the hill a couple miles. The last is from our own driveway. Getting closer!!

Hi all. I just have to do a Vendor shoutout. I needed some parts to put a 1211 tiller on my C-160. Lowell at Wheel Horse parts and more hooked me up. (Though I texted with him. His wife took care of it ). I am lucky enough to be close enough to them to go get the parts. They are extremely knowledgeable of the products. And, I would say. Nice welds. Thanks again to them helping me out. Potato garden tilled. Spuds in. Use them ..... You won't be sorry.

Hello, I recently bought this Wheel Horse C195, unfortunately it no longer has the original engine. Now I have to find an original engine for it. This is going to be a tough search.

Just throwing this out there, As some of you know, I do my own repair / upgrade machining on my Horses. Mostly adding bronze bushings in steering blocks, front axle pivot & spindle bores, lower thrust washers for the same, clutch rod frame bushings. The typical places that get wornout by metal-to-metal contact over time. So, if you wish to inquire about the costs involved for a specific repair, send me a PM.

Some more CBR-327 front cutter bar pictures. Note the guard for covering the chain drive. This helps keep out grass cut from the chain mechanism. There is also a good photo of the mule drive mechanism in the front of the tractor. Again this comes from a 32 or 36 gear driven more deck. IMPORANT: It must have the three race pulley and the grease fitting for the needle bearings to properly run the chain drive front cutter bar.

DJG.520: yes what you have found is the rare chain drive CBR327. Front cutter bar . Photos in Wheel Horse advertising show this cutter bar on a 701 Wheel Horse garden tractor. The first 7 HP Kohler used by wheel horse with an electric starter. There is no know manual for this CBR-327 front cutter bar. There are several folks that have them and about four years ago before Covid we had four of these cutter bars with 701 tractors at the Big Show Wheel Horse Collector’s Club Show. I will post pictures. I have a friend in Florida that found one and I completely rebuilt it with new needle bearings when I restored it. I put new blades on the cutter bar and greased up good. I also own a CBR-32 front cutter bar that was used on the RJs and Suburbans. This front cutter bar actually is a later version for the four wheel RJs and Suburbans that was first used in two wheel POND wheel horse garden tractors. Somewhere in the Red Square Wheel Horse website is a copy of my two wheel cutter bar manual. These cutter bars need to be greased almost at each usage. The blades can be still purchased and will need the same rivets as in the CB-32 front cutter bar. Webb Cuuting blades in Nebraska makes new blades to order that are heat treated and cost less than $.00 each. My CBR-327 did not need new chain but that too can be purchased if needed. I think there may be an oil seal on the mechanism but I forget for sure. I changed most of the four or five grease fittings to ease greasing. The major thing you need with this is the front mule drive. No exact picture of one in a manual so what do you do. I bought an old early gear drive Wheel Horse mower deck with a three race pulley with a grease fitting in it. This would attaché to a tractor like a 701/702 with the idler and clutch pedal to engage the mower. Same basic thing is done for the front cutter bar. The three race pulley retains the cross rod to attach in the attach a matic side plates (just like you would do for a great drive mower deck). Some of the younger guys who own them may recall the belt sizes needed and other issues but this is what I recall. They are very good machines and in my opinion operate better than the CBR-32 belt drive front cutter bar. But you are very busy operating these or any sickle ( like the side mounts that came in 1962 and made the CBR-327 unnecessary as a sale item for Wheel Horse).

In the garage for a little maintenance

Wire it right to the coil hot.

Yep, that one should have a lectric pump right behind Dans yellow circle.

It is true, you can't fix stupid.

For other's info. A CHEEP replacement for the 7879 flanged bushing that motion control linkages use can be made out of one of those axle caps you get in the Hillman drawer at Lowes. just grind off the closed end and ream the hole.

Thanks again to @Ed Kennell for sending us a lift handle! Trina spent the time to remove obstructions and get it installed today. Last thing (known) to do is pop the mower deck on.

Those screws are 10-24 x 3/8". Phillips or Allen head, either one will work. Available at any hardware store.

Been there…

I’ll be heading to zagray on Saturday!

I mounted mine right under the tool box nice and close to the tank. Easy access to the pump and filter. I don't care if it isn't hidden. I just want it to work.

Thanks.

How did you know SGs are my fav. Hub caps make the 857 pop!

Same here on the 953 I had.

North Berwick Maine in September too!

Location: South Eastern MA Maybe load'em up on a trailer and meet us at the spring Zagray Farm Tractor/Engine show in Colchester CT on 5/5-6 We go on Saturdays so 5/5 if you're up for it. The more the merrier. http://www.zagrayfarmmuseum.org/ Itching to get out so Sparky and I are planning to go to the Belltown show on Sunday 4/28 https://www.belltownantiquecarclub.org/gallery-3

You guys baring NON are the fricking BEST! tomorrow I put the Piston and Rod in, button her up say a prayer to the WH Gods and hit the start button!

I believe I have it resolved. Put the hitch bracket back like it was in first pic then found out the long curved arm where it attaches totge upright arm of the plow (center of this pic) was frozen. Once lubed up and pushed that connection point, the plow pivoted and now is in proper position when lowered and lifts nicely off the ground when raised.

"Model T collector cringe", or maybe make some lust after for unusual items for their collections.

@Lane Ranger Hey, I remember seeing this line up. Security had a witness that was trying to positively ID the perp that p'd on the toilet seat! Amazing how many of the "rare" things are always more plentiful at the big show. Lots of great WH collectors there

That is a little vacuum switch for monitoring the air filter. If the air filter is clogged the vacuum goes up and this switch senses that and turns on the air filter light on the dash. However, yours has the nipple broken off as most do that the hose from the air cleaner hooks to. Under the air filter housing you should have either a hose connected or a hose nipple. You can simply plug this hose and be done with it then just check the air filter just like any other engine. I do not have this working on any of my 520's.

Dirty air cleaner sensor?

First day of trout fishing. I kept a couple for the skillet.

wow, what a difference in steering/ response without the 2 stage snow thrower on. Bug Tussle got a WD 40 wipe as well.

Pretty Sunday. Got all the boys out for a half hour of run time. 867 needs a plug wire, so he played hookie...

This is a topic for the build/fix up of my 1986 ford f150. There may be a while in between the post because I work on it in my spare time when I’m not too busy. It has a 300 inline 6 with a four speed manual transmission. Regular cab long bed 4x4.

Hello, just starting my Wheel Horse journey and had a couple questions to get me up and running ASAP. Just picked up my first Horse, a '87 414-8 came with a 42" SD deck. It has been somewhat restored/repaired. I have not ordered the blades for it yet, as I had a question about the spindles. I noticed the one was different in the threads than the others, and worried about the difference allowing slop in the figment and causing vibration. Any insight on that is appreciated, if its no worries or something needs to be swapped out. Also attached is a photo of me and my son! He loves our evening rides. Thanks for looking.

We referred to that as "Methyl Ethyl Death" back when I was doing aircraft phase inspections for Uncle Sugar. That is some good stuff, but you better gear up if you're in it much. It strips sludge, paint, and skin!

This should look familiar. Do you know what this is? It might look like shrink wrap on a roll but in reality that is not true. This is a small block Kohler crankshaft seal driver. Got the flywheel cleaned out. It wasn't bad. Just a little dusty really. Hand wire brushed the threads. Oiled them too. Installed the nut and torqued it to 90 ft lbs.

If you remove the center panel and the left hand side panel for access. There is a perfect place to install an electric pump in front of the shifter and just behind the hydraulic pump. In the area I have circled. No one will ever know it's there.

I flycut the top surface just to clean the wear and to make it truly perpendicular to the bushing. Look at any used OE block, there is maybe a third of a circle of wear around the hole. Not clearly visible there is a SECOND grease fitting down below to allow you to grease the lower steering shaft....

I have done both the clutch shaft and the PTO shaft on my C-120/180. Yes axles and steering blocks, you meed a milling machine.

All the above. Lowell and Joette are nice folks..... Bill

All these post are all well and good for you yank..., I mean folks who live up yonder with power out for two to four day. But down here on the cost we prepare during hurricane season for power outages, for 3 to 10 days. Longest time for me on the Genny, 16 days. You learn quickly how much power you really need, 3000w will get you through fine, 3600w, your living pretty good, that's about 10 gal. of gas or 12 gal. of propane a day. It can get pretty rough down here, so when you retire stay the hell up there.

I'm sayin just plain dumb ass judges and politicians.