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Worthington Tractor Company The Worthington Mower Company, originally called the Shawnee Mower Factory, produced lawn mowers and light-duty tractors from the early 1920s until 1959. Founded by Charles Campbell Worthington and run as a family business, until 1945 when it was purchased by Jacobsen Manufacturing. It continued to produce Withington tractors and mowers in Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, until 1959. Worthington was the internationally known industrialist and sportsman who developed the Worthington tractor. In 1840, his father had invented the first direct-acting steam pump, the success of which led to the creation of the well-known Worthington Pump and Machinery Corporation. A graduate of the School of Mines at Columbia University, Worthington entered the pump business, and took over the Worthington Company upon his father’s death in 1880. During his tenure there, he contributed hundreds of important improvements and developments in pumps, compressors, and other machines.

Big Red and O'l Rusty Red's dedicated to winter. Rusty mows, hauls the trailer(s), the splitter as well as skidding logs out of the woods.

These little guys poop everywhere in March.

I have 9 more visits for radiation of 28 total. I have been out of work for about 6 days so far but able to work from home some. The treatment consists of 10 fields each visit and Chemo pills twice a day to enhance radiation. The radiation has my skin burned pretty toasty and the Chemo has my arms and cheeks irritated with a burning rash but ointments applied keeps things tolerable. So far my blood work is holding well and my weight loss has been minimal. The main issue I have is loss of energy. The owner of the company I work for is treating me very well. He told me my job was taking care of myself and the company's job was insuring I would not lose any pay during my treatment and recovery. I am very blessed to have prayers and support from all my Redsquare friends, neighbors and friends locally, and, family, as well as a good employer. I came home yesterday from my treatments and found my grass had been cut by my Step son.

Split and stacked a few loads of firewood. Then took the blade off the 312 and put the tiller on.

I thought I recognised that model. It was only made for a very short time, and was primarily made for export to the Australia / New Zealand market🤪😂

Back at it again this weekend. Stacked my dumb bell weights on the mid mount weight bar to see how many I could fit. @ebinmaine might recognize these dumb bell weights. Any way, I can only fit 4 in between the frame rails due to a clearance issue when I slide the front weight bar all the way in. I can how ever fit 10 on each side on the out side of the frame. Grand total of 168lbs. Made a cover plate for the opening on the block for the fuel pump. Then it was time to make some paint fly. No, I'm not prepping sheet metal for a flawless paint job. Just some fizz bomb paint squirted on the pieces that I had to fab. Some silver squirted on the wheelie bars. Why silver? Just wanted to show off the fab work on them. Also added a center brace to stiffen the wheelie bars up. One coat of self etching primer and two coats of flat black on the front weights. Dumb bell weights received the same treatment, got 18 of them painted today. 6 more to paint tomorrow. OK.... I did spray some sheet metal too. The fender pan did get a top notch paint job to protect the add on pieces and the spots where the welds burned the paint off. Yep a little red oxide primer to help keep the rust at bay. Blends right in with the faded red & rust finish.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTL8h2VJh/ floor jack and a ratchet strap. Ingenious!

Are you familiar with glassing heads? Fuel pump halves need the same treatment. It takes quite abit using 400 grit wet. They distort due to overtightening. Tighten halves just enough. Note between the screw holes. Glass until this spots are about gone. I've tried extra gaskets, sealer, filing but this is the only thing that works.

Hey @TonyToro Jr. where’s my credit? Sounds like I wasn’t there to supervise and who welded up the exhaust??

@ebinmaine

Took the snow blade off and cleaned up all the yard waste the old lady and I generated yesterday. I ripped up some patches of hawkweed which is slowly making its way around my whole yard. The chickens tear it up but it’s outpacing them. Also uncovered an old garden bed which should look pretty nice when planted. I’m jealous of you guys with your chippers

Don't know about practical but, two 1oo horse v8s on roll out trays. Two manual transmissions with parallelogram shifters. Each rear axle has its own engine. When Ford could make more B24 parts than it could use at Willow Run they built these to haul the wings all over the country. Weigt limits, length limits and speed limits did not apply.

Wouldn't it be a CAE (Cab Ahead of Engines)?? Cool truck!!

Our son was the last gunner in convoy's in Iraq. Kris sat on the back of a flat bed truck with a 50 cal. surrounded by sand bags. He was there about 1 1/2 years. He didn't talk about his time there but when he and I would go for a ride in the El Camino, he'd stiffen up where the road had been patched. One time we were riding along and passed under a bridge over our road. He said, "Dad, those kids knew they were not supposed to be up there (on the bridge his convoy was traveling under) when we passed." Kris died a little over 16 years ago when his fiancee lost control of his pickup. The pickup he saved for while in Iraq. Rebecca survived the accident and lived with us several months while healing and graduated from college. Rebecca joined the National Guard (as an honor to Kris) and she is now a captain. We spend time with her a couple of weeks ago and she told us that she will be deployed overseas in April. She will be leaving her husband and two children behind. My wife almost always pays for the meal of someone dressed in uniform when we are eating out. Someone did that for our son once and it's something that she does in his memory. The men and women who proudly wear the uniforms of our nation's service are the pride of our country and due all the respect we can give them.

Me n BBT spent some time cleaning clearing up and organizing oit behind the backyard today.

Not to hard I have had several out, it is about an hours work. Some things are obvious but I will try to step you through it. If equipped, remove the mower and mule drive. Disconnect the battery. Remove the side panels, hood and side support brackets The engine has a plug on the right side that isolates it from the machine. and there is a plug for the clutch, that will need disconnected also. Disconnect the drive shaft at the engine. The engine mounts to a square plate that bolts to the frame, I pull the engine with the plate. The bolt on the left side near the operator is a stud that has a nut underneath. The three remaining are through bolts. When hoisting the engine it needs to swing forward and up to allow the drive shaft to clear the firewall. Once out remember the oil drain tube goes through the mounting plate and sticks out. I will set the unit down on an old tire or a couple blocks. Going from memory, hope I did not miss anything.

Kind of along the line of the Fire Extinguisher hanging on the wall in the shop.... "Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it"

All springs punched and assembled. Once I'd sorted the method I could do a full spring in four minutes. The accuracy and consistency is fantastic.

Ed what's that green colored stuff all over the ground???

B-Line Has a catalog you can download in .pdf format here: https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/support-systems/strut-systems-&-accessories/strut-system-catalog-2018.pdf Everything you ever wanted to know about Strut Hardware, products, Specs, Capacities, limits, Accessories etc. In my 25+ years of industrial electrical work experience, I thiMk the B-Line catalogs are about the best & most thorough of them all. I have been threatening to build a 4-way hoist in the garage for years now.... When I finally do it, This is the sort of product I would use as I doubt I will be lifting anything heavier than 600 lbs more like 350 or less for the most part & since I aint gettin' any younger, I better hurry up.... Hope that helps....

Great video! But for "all original", that's the wrong hood decals for a Bronco 14... My stripe is wrong, but the decals are correct for 1971 and 1972.

Installed some brand new LED headlights that I got for my birthday from my Grandma on my C-145 today way brighter and way more distance. No DIY I did it just about all by myself it was just plug and play. I can post the link if you guys want they were on scamazon

don't do tictok

Glad to have that cleared up. I was thinking it was for "Men in Black” mowing the ceiling of the MidTown Tunnel on a Wheel Horse

Finally made some progress on our loader. @WheelHorse_Kid and I mounted it to the tractor. Minus the front bracket. I need to build something to hold that. I also have a question. Can anyone get me a picture of the way the hydraulic pump mounts? @Thor27 I definitely forgot to get you the picture of the ID tag and will do that when I go out shortly.

Same thing my wife would say about the lump on my head! She is particular about her truck!

Picked up this 1946 WC last weekend from a friend of mine, finally got it to the farm and off the trailer into the shop this evening. He had it running a week ago, but today when I went to start it it seems we have lost spark, probably tinker with that some tomorrow and see if I can get it running, then will have to bite the bullet and buy at least one tire for the rear, and maybe see a little mowing duty this summer while I do some needed repairs on the Farmall C

great looking pair of tractors you have there. Raining again here. I have water in places in my yard I never have. Wheelhorse_kid keeps asking me when he should take his snow plow off. I keep saying wait. As soon as he does we will get 2 feet of snow and he’s the only one who was smart enough to put a plow on this winter.

C-130 Rollin Down The Strip Airborne Daddy Gonna Take A Little Trip Stand Up, Hook Up, Shuffle To The Door Jump Right Out And Count To Four If my main don't open wide, Reach Down And Pull My Reserve If My Reserve Don't Open Up, Look Out Ground, Cause Here I Come! Place My Arms Across My Chest, Tell My Mom I Did My Best C-85

No joke. Since I dropped the snow blower off the 522xi yesterday, I decided to take a joy ride to the back of the property to check things out.........I left soggy ruts everywhere I went and I was just putzing around

My solution for leaky mechanical pumps easier and faster...and close in price to a rebuild kit. lasts and lasts no danger of future gas in the crankcase...

I agree. You cannot tell me that the tractor is not a repaint. Why else would you put a different hood decal on it?

A loader is definitely on my wish list. I'd love to find a Johnson loader like the one on your neighbors tractor. The smaller size would fit my needs perfectly.

During the fall of 2022 my 1987 312-8's engine begun experiencing oil consumption and the summer of 2023 the problem deteriorated with black exhaust emitted from the muffler. I began exploring the options available to me. Should the engine be rebuilt by a local company specializing in tractors of all sizes or send it to a member here on the forum. Possibly to a local man nearby who discouraged me from doing so because of the difficulty of getting a small engine machined in our area. This all led me down the path looking for a new tractor. Price and size came into play. All new tractors are much larger in size and I really like the size, power and functionality of my current WH with its plow, RD mower and other modifications I have made. Not having any interest in rebuilding an engine all of the above pointed me to replacing it. Starting on craigslist I found a 14 horse Kohler, but with uncertain specs to be a replacement. After calling Kohler tech support they suggested contacting Repower Specialist in Eugene, OR. Checking their website I found an engine kit for a WH 314-8 using a Honda GX630 with all the hardware and wiring needed to do the swap. I decided to go that route. Final cost was near the same as a new Husqvarna that was a possible replacement except much larger. Engine kit is ordered, arrives and the installation process begins. First problem is new engine mounting plate does not bolt onto the WH frame. With @ebinmaine's and @Lee1977's help I determine the correct hole locations and create a cardboard template. Speaking to RePower tech support they provided a shipping label to send my mounting plate and template back to them to have new holes drilled and threaded. All at no charge. Altered plate arrives and bolts to the frame without any problems. The Honda is hoisted onto a dolly which allows me to slide the engine onto the frame. Have to take care of this 70 year old back. PTO bearings have their grease renewed and the bell is reassembled on the shaft. Wiring is completed with just one error causing the safety switches to be activated so the engine would not start. I selected the wrong wire from the wiring block. Swap wires and engine cranks, but will not start. The problem is the Honda has a fuel shutoff solenoid and the wiring of the 312-8 does not accommodate this feature. RePower has a work around and sends me a custom wiring harness to provide power to the solenoid that allows fuel to flow. Engine cranks and fires up. Wonderful sound. Today my tractor was put back into service cleaning the yard. A bit more work has to be done to reinstall some of my customized feature, but WH life is good. The original build thread is linked below for anyone interested as well a link to my review of Repower Specialist. Original Build Post Review of Repower Specialist

Happy Birthday Chuck I didn't realize that your birthday is one day ahead of mine. If you were still up in PA, we could party (headed to Columbia tomorrow.) Hope you have a great day!

The pump housings are relatively soft metal and all of the three I’ve touched were warped (how? I have no idea). I discovered this by placing each mating face on a good flat surface and noting that there were gaps that would prevent a tight seal when it was together. I used @ebinmaine’s head flattening advice to carefully and slowly flatten both faces before cleaning and reassembling. Also, similar to @953 nut’s comment, the diaphragm is NOT intended to stretch to pump fuel. that would wear it out very quickly. During installation, the diaphragm should “pucker” inside the central cavity. You may be concerned about wrinkles at the edges where it seals but these will flatten out as you tighten the halves together. Lastly, make sure to use a criss-cross pattern when tightening each screw a little at time until it's together.

The loader pump is factory and correct on how it mounts. But it's just a belt to a pulley so any configuration to mount a pump will work if it's lined up and rotating it the correct direction.

I was working is a customer's shop and needed a shim about 1/16" thick so I found a piece in the steel rack. I needed to drill a hole and the drill bit was wasted in seconds, I thought maybe a cheap drill and tried again with the same result. I asked about the steel and they said (after controlling the laughter) it was some scrap from testing AHSS for use in car doors. Advanced High Strength Steel is used to reduce weight and provide considerable strength for safety, in this case a guard rail inside a car door. That stuff looks just like any other mild steel but bending and machining takes considerable work.

Excellent to hear your mo-chine is being put back into service. Glad to have helped too. Like you, Trina and I have a solid belief that these older tractors are a PERMANENT piece of EQUIPMENT, not just an old mower etc... We choose the brand and vintage for many reasons.

@BBQVultureWings terrific ideas / go to source , terrifying to many , purists , could not even see it , lots of ideas / cures . you are a newbie , but you speak in the old school tongue , thank you , Pete

Have a Great Day Chuck

And the rest of the build…

Made it myself few years ago with a cheapo „Harbor freight“ Engine to see what can be achieved. One word before - cheap - depends on your own definition. 🤪 all together i wasted for that „idiot Bet“ about 1800$ for few Day‘s Fun and abou 2 months of Work to win this Bet. We used a cheap chinese Quadbike as „Testvehicle“ what had a cracked Engine. That was the reason this dang idiotic Bet was made by few Beers - if you think about such an item - no friends should be aside and the Beer must be faaaaar faaaar away... believe me, ask why i knew it.😎 I used a Smart Turbo therefore that must be reworked before you can use it. Reason is, the Smart Turbo has an fixed cast iron Exhaust manifold for a 3 cyl. engine on it. That is part of the Turbo. Grinded it down and welded a Pipe onto it, to be able to be adapted. or be aware to have access to a cnc Machine and build your own exhaust. If you can weld cast iron you got the half bet with the Cheap version. Additionally you need a little Temp stable Hydraulicpump. I raped a Haldex pump for that, what becomes an own Filter and distributor case cnc milled. Here first the pump intake pass a filter, out of the pump to the Cooling section of the Turbo, than rerouted thru a external Oil Cooler I used a Computer Watercoolung system heatchanger and back in the Pressure oil section. all this lines must be temp stable hydraulic up to 130 deg C and 8 bar pressure. The turbo oil drain section out of the Turbo goes into the separate Oiltank where the Haldex pump sucks it‘s oil via Filter. if you drive a turbo without an pressured Oil system it runns for about 5 min that you be done. it‘s bearings be shot and the Turbo is killed. It may spin but want be able to build pressure. that „System“ worked for about a Month if i remember right before the Engine blows at about 7500 rpm. i suggesting also wrap a rabbitfence arround the Engine to protect yourself against hot spit parts out from the Engine when it explodes. Carb passes thru the Turbo with a Silicone inlet pipe to decouple the Heat. Use at least 100 oktan fuel- if you can get Air Fuel - the better solution. Ignition at Start a little retarded or best movable or programmable between retard and advanced. exhaust depends on your „Soundambiente“ your neighbours are willing to accept. 😎 The Boos was Freaking Funny. The Values up to 22 HP be results of several Dyno Runs after lots of modifications. at this time i had a friend with a tunning shop, who had a own Dyno. But he is retired since about 20 years sadly. This Engines can be simpler „modified“ increase Static Middlepressure by reducing the Head Gasket thickness, improve all bearings if possibillity and if available enlarge the Intake and outlet valves +2 sizes up ( bore and grind) open up the Intake and exhaust paths on the Cylindre head and optimise the Airflow - perfectly is, if an airflow bench is available. remove the Piston and enlighten it, or better use high performance parts. Extremely important be much stiffer valve springs and maybe a reworked or aftermarket „hot Camshaft“ and a six horses Engine can bring up easy Up to 12HP but only if carb and exhaust are perfectly matched and set up. Depending on your time and Wallet..🤪😁👍😎 you also need better quality bearings on the crankshaft and stronger springs or the engine don‘t survive the first „throttle up“. turbo wasn‘t cheap if the system should last just a little bit. as allready mentioned , just to blew it up, use NOS. small pipe with 0,3- max 0,65 bar pressure for a dry system brings also dang lot of Fun but also not for long. Each tunning reduces the lifespan - the more power you squezzed out of that little aengines, the shorter the Enginelife, that simple. But yap, get this experiences give me a dang cool idiotic Times with my best Friend Peter since...👍😎