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12 pm today it is done. Rebuilt engine, fixed some issues front to back that needed to be done on it. Ready for the spring and summer and fall shows Hope you enjoy the video. Hard to beat these old K Kohler start/Gen`s! My favor it engine. IMG_1308.mov

Hello guys, Its been a very long time I have been on the site. Real life job took all my time. I surely have missed all of you guys, I still have all of my tractors. Well, I am now officially retired. So, Im back, HaHaHa. I have a lot of reading to do to catch up. Thanks, Daron from Western PA

If you check the electrochemical rows you will find the Answer for your Question. Two electrical poles and an Electrolyt be enough to react. That becomes more focus if the Chassis was used to reduce wires in Car electric and save so copper. So here we have the electric component for our „galvanic experiment“. If Sheetmetal is under current be used in moisture or wet Ambiente like Cars, Trucks or even Boats they found out that Steel If it is used as Power component can be reduced in corrosion if the Polarity is be Changed to negative on chassis. That Change from positive ground to negative ground was simply based as Rustprevention. Vehicles with positive on chassis corrodes faster on Sheetmetal. Maybe you have allready heard from the so called sacrificial Anode on a Boat. An Anode is allway‘s a positive pole and should sacrify itself first if the Paint of the Boat or Boatengine is scratched to prevent the Steelbody of a boat or the Aluminum shell of an Boatengine corrodes before. That was the only intension, Manufacturer changed the polarity on Chassis from positive to negative Ground. Manufacturer in the past do have lot of experiences, felt more than today young Engineers have. Today they have AI, that prevents thinking by yourself.

yep, all original. ‘62 sheet metal, ‘64 frame, air compressor K181T Kohler, ‘78 C series wheels. All original parts though!

A Wheel Horse theft operation?

After months of not being able to see my work monitors, I went to have my vision checked. I bragged to the doctor that I had 20-12 vision at my last flight physical (I didn't mention it was 25 years prior). ...He told me that I still had 20-12, so long as whatever I looked at was 10 feet from my face.

Almost done! Loving this new matte OD green.

Retirement was the best vocational choice I ever made, glad you joined us.

Nothing ... never had even fuzzy dice. Too much of a distraction when trying to run things over... Although we did once get into a buddies rig once and hung tampons off his.

Glad to hear you've retired and have time to enjoy your horses and the forum again. Now don't be a stranger

Welcome back !!!

to the forum @Qball. Yup. This is another @ebinmaine thread. Page 2 already. Project progress so far? Tractor to the shop and rolled off of the trailer

I will take it out for a ride tomorrow put some time on the engine.

Not all crankcases are created equally. The crankcase on an industrial engine will be deeper and the dipper on that rod is longer so you need to be sure your replacement rod's dipper is the same length as old one. Same holds true for the K-241-AS used on the 1055 etc where the short crankcase is used, rod is the same as the taller K-241-A so the kits have the longer dipper and it needs to be shortened up.

Lots of aspects of AI give me pause (as a former practitioner), but this is a biggie. Users that are not harboring a sense of skepticism will fall prey to the inevitable “garbage in, gospel out” syndrome similar to “The internet says..."

Sad but true. With the amount of electronics stuff we have the brain isn't receiving enough exercise. Years back I could calculate a square root in my head with reasonable accuracy. Once calculators with that function came along I forgot how to do it and became dependant on the little box of knowledge. We don't have to commit things to memory any more, just go on line and find it all and now that AI is going to help us think we won't even have to do that ourselves.

I think it changed with the end of 6v systems and advent of 12v systems. Guessing the engineer that decided we need to switch to 12v on everything had reason, or never studied DC electricity.

Absolutely true... another reason older machines had positive ground. I have no idea when it all changed to negative gnd but be advised to always hook up negative last when hooking up power to our tractors. Accidentally grounding the wrench on a 36 volt system when hooking up positive last can be a welding experience.

Even tho I am a recovering Catholic I felt the need to go to confession. Me: Bless me father for I have sinned. Father O'blivion: Now what have you done? Me: I drilled a hole in 60 year old metal. Father: You been hanging out with that @Achto character again ain't you. Me: Bless me father for I have sinned twice. Father: What did I tell you about him... he has no respect for original. Me: I know but it was just a PO hole I made bigger. Father: Did you vacuum up the shavings. Me: Yes father. Father: You are absolved of your sins. For your penace you shall bury said vacuum cleaner bag shavings in a plow field and make promise to rescue another horse. Amen. Guess I can live with that...geez I was just relocating a switch...

I really missed you guys. Thanks for the welcome back.

already installed a woodburner and a lazyboy in my garage. HAHA

Hello Daron Retarded for almost a year 1/2 now and it's everything is cracked up to be. Spend most of my time in the shop since SWMBO retired and going to get a recliner out ther to take naps. No idea what the inside of the house looks like...

Hanging from my rearview mirror you will find Old Glory and a Ty beanie baby lobster. The American flag is there because I love our country and the Ty lobster is one of the McDonalds Happy Meal toys being given away when Ty beanies were all the rage. My wife was sure that those giveaway toys were sooooo valuable that someone would break my window to get it. That was about twenty-five years and another truck ago and so far so good, hope no Ty thieves are going to read this post.

There are TWO types of Sundstrand Hydros. 1) Sundstrand Hydrogear (models 90-2046 & 90-2062) and 2) Sundstrand piston-to-piston (*models 90-1136, 90-1137, 90-1140). Hydrogears were used on older models like Charger, Bronco 14, or the GT-14. Later models starting is about 1973 are for 'B' and 'C' series Autos i.e., B-100, C-120, C-160 etc. In either case, I have prepared a FREE download repair manual with photos and narrative of how to do the rebuild. It is NOT difficult to do. Rebuild files are here too... SUNDSTRAND PUMP & MOTOR Parts list.pdfSUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf

Split taper bushings are the cats ass! We used them at work on all the machinery.

It was almost too big to get on my 5x8 utility trailer...haha. Wow, its no wonder everyone refers to these 5xi models as beasts. It seems like every bracket on it is 1/4" steel. Tires are a little dry rotted, seats a little cracked, needs a wash/buff, and it needs a general once over maintenance checkout, but I am very happy and so was the retired gentleman I purchased it from. More importantly, this all but guarantees that we won't get a heavy snow storm for the next decade.

Great progress - sounds fine. Idling that low is not something to be done while breaking new rings in to seat properly. Needs a ride at half throttle or so. My 2 cents...

Also my favorite combo.

There are three main places on the 300 series that need steering repair, First in the bushing at the top of the hood stand. The hole in the hood stand is usually worn so a new bushing won't fix that. a flange bearing bolted in place will fix that. I use the Toro 6472 same bearing as on the lower steering shaft. I used that as I had a good used one, some have used a flanged ball bearing. The second place is at the lower steering block, usually shimming the fan gear to tighten up the gears will fix the problem. The block can also be worn from lack of grease or broken it does happen. In shimming the fan gear they are cast gears and too tight will cause more wear. Two inches of play in the steering wheel is about as tight as it needs to be. The third place is tie rods they are most likely worn out on an 88 model. You can get new adjustable tie rods from "Wheel Horse Parts and More" located in the vender's section. If you want to fix it for the long run I suggest good quality lined heims joints.

Thanks the guy I use now is a hr 1/2 away. Always willing to travel for the right shop. Take the missus, see the state and make a date of it. @Achto found a guy not too terribly far that does a nice job and resonable. Might try him with a 161 smoker. Finding these shops nowadays is like hens teeth.

If your Wheel Horse has been kept inside and well lubricated the repairs on your steering are something you could accomplish at home with a few simple tools. Give us a bit more information about the problem that needs repair and we can help out with all the information and tricks of the trade you will need.

thanks for answering.pretty interesting.

Care to share? Always interested in a shop that will mess with our motors. It's in Baldwin, WI., just a couple miles north of I-94. Not exactly in your back yard. I will get the name and address for you and post it. My son has used him for our 9NBN motor and his 40 9N. Also his 351 Cleveland. Another friend of mine has had a couple Ford Y-blocks done there. My son asked him about Kohlers and he said yes, he does whatever comes in the door. I have a couple that need attention, so I'll be seeing him soon. www.sidestreetenginemachine.com/home

We have a fastenal in town but unless you have a corporate account with them they will not sell to you. Not that many big businesses in town either so I don't know how they stay in business.

Hhhmmm... Maybe them Wisconsin hoodlums @WHX?? and @Achto were lookin' to wrassle some Canadian 's, picked up @Pullstart on the way over the border, and the Constables got wind of it before they emptied your garage...

Sealling came out well. 96 Hr cure time tho... talk about watching paint dry! Grey spot is sealer coming out around the leak. Amigo tank came out nice too... I hope.... Back on and plumbed. There's enough sealer in the kit to do a five gallon tank or so they say. Since these little gys just take a small amount so instead of letting it go hard in the can work bench got the rest. Dad always said... waste not want not....

Managed to use a sharpie to add a little contrast to the serial numbers 01-20KS00-7816 for the tractor 97-48FL01-05271on the FEL

Anyone have the wiring diagram for a 502? Guess the real question is did it have a solenoid ala 701? This one does and appears to be original. Ig switch definitely not orginal but works. Gotta like the wiring soldered on ... works I guess. Tecky H60 mag ignition ground to kill. Figured as long as in the shop for tank sealing to cure might as well replace some very old wiring.

Welcome. When you say hydraulics don't work do you mean the lift cylinders or that the tractor will not move at all. Download this manual and helpful repair guide. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/24-transmission-hydro-sundstrand-sm-492-4206pdf/

Great news!!! Prayers answered in more ways than one... You and your wife should be very proud of him!

I like the hood stand to shift tray work. That’s the detail!

Happy Happy Lowell

Now, now. Please notice that I refrained from naming names....

You did good on those seals. Nice job figuring out a better method for yourself. I was shown a way that involves a long thin flat screwdriver with careful placement and drive. This WILL destroy the seal every time. That said, I wouldn't be likely to be removing a good seal. I tap the screwdriver into the outer edge of the seal from a fairly wide angle. Keep working your way round. It makes small dents in the seal eventually causing it to become loose.

It was an experiment based on how I used to handle emails at work when I got 50 or more each day. In future, I”ll be sure to use RED

@ri702bill bill , love the green ! as you are well aware , there are many areas to improve , if you want to . my initial attempt was a constant flip / flop of trying to get a good spot for view, and working function . thats what led me to the 2 milk crate set up , just under behind quadrant area , and under rear of frame , roller stool , that was it ! let me at it ! lots of areas could use help , often simple detailing , eliminated the issue, like an elastic lock nut on a slightly longer bolt , at the lower triangle swing on the lever lift . snug in the perfect / lubricated swing , and hold that setting with the elastic nut ! did that every similar movement point . then insured , lubricant at every , neglected area. that lever lift spring slide to quadrant , was a gold mine of response to related easy movement . very glad for you to make a gain on a lubricant issue , and sharing with us , stay greasy , Pete

The temperature dipped to 19.3 degrees (f) last night, so today I removed the mower deck from the 414-8 in preparation for the plow (another post). I have seen posts previously asking how to do this, so I decided to document the process: FIRST loosen up the mule drive, note to loosen you turn the knob clockwise SECOND remove the belt from the mower center pulley, this works best with the mower lowered. THIRD raise the deck and unhook the attach-a-matic holding the deck to the center hitch by pressing in the button and sliding the release lever over. Once unhooked, lower the deck slowly to remove the rod from the hitch. FOURTH Remove the front mule drive same as the center hitch ***CAREFUL*** as the mule drive will drop down, keep hands clear. FIFTH remove the pin holding the PTO engagement lever to the PTO spindle, then remove the rod and remove the belt. SIXTH slide the mower deck from under the tractor by first sliding the deck until the lift pin drops, then raise the lift lever and remove the deck the rest of the way and you're done!!!

Ford ranger spacers... drilling rims to .5 inch is pretty much just shaving the edges of the stock hole.