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use of ax heads. Was out wrangling a horse and the guy had offered a log splitttttter. This was visible and thought it was pretty intuitive use of ax heads. This guys dad was a small engine repair guy and jack off all trades. The dad passed in 05 and over the years got rid of 4 flat beds of stuff. He did buy a WH new in 88 and it was there I picked it up. Supposed to call when the other stuff is ready to go. Kind of reminded me of my shop.

Second barn, so close. The dew is burning off slower and slower each day. I hope only one more morning matters. My buddy Matt stopped out last night and helped me toss steel. We basically tacked each panel in place, enough to get the last plane covered. Today, I’m shooting screws in the rest of the spots, then trim and vent and relax!

Ok Lance, Yet you still found time to text me your BS and horrible jokes!

Gentlemen, I have been busy plowing earth before installing a hedgerow. This was my first time using a ground engaging implement (and plowing) and I was amazed by what the tractor, a 68 Charger 12, could do!

@ebinmaine, Eric, the spec numbers for series 1 is 24299 and lower and series 2 is 24300 and higher. If you go to the manuals section under engines, there is a KT17 & KT19 service manual available. The descriptions part of that file has a nice breakdown of the years and Wheel Horse models that those engines were used in. -JD-

Ax heads are cool! But you just told us you picked up a horse ....... and no Pictures. What kind of a tease is this

Swap a set of rear wheel weights that I had for a set that @Sparky had and painted them today. Getting them ready for the tractor and winter.

Looks professional to me.Congratulations on a excellent resto !

Let me start off by saying I got bored this Summer lol ! I had posted my 2 - GT-14's along with my 2-stage snowblower earlier this Spring and after a while of no hits on that post and me with time on my hands, I decided to pull the 14hp Kohler off the GT-14 and a 20hp off a Sears SS tractor I had and make the ultimate snow blower rig for this Winter. Already bench tested everything and lets just say she didn't disappoint. the hydro is so quiet and it lifts this blower with no strain what so ever, which is the main reason for this conversion. Hope everyone had fun with their own projects, I know I sure did with this one. Thanks For Looking !!

It's increasingly evident that I can't read numbuzz rite. My feeble 🐻 brain saw 2012 for some reason.

2023-2022=11? 🐻 math?

I changed the transmission oil when I redid the tractor about spring 2022. Haven’t put many hours on it and the hours were just joy riding, not working hours. I will check the color of the oil, maybe refill, and add some Lucas…

Hot Dog got fire, the kill wire to the module was pinched. Now all i have to do is pull all the stuff back together .

Sorry, dark when I got home but my shirt pocket, got this one. 310-8 at the loading site

The Tow valve was very stuck on my C160 and i sprayed it with penetrant for a while with no luck. I've had good luck using a large vice grip pliers, clamped very tightly. I lifted the front of he horse fairly high to get the tow valve at a 45 degree. I put a temporary bead of caulk around the edge of the tow valve to form a dam to hold the penetrant in a pool to soak for several days. I used a large vice grip pliers, clamped very tightly and it finally moved and freed up.

Dan - place an ad in the "wanted" section of the Classified on the Forum. It is a fairly commom 4 terminal Delco-Remy unit...... Bill

Did you replace the spark plug with a new Champion H-10? Here is a chart with the proper adjustments for carburetors .

If you back them out 1.5 turns it should run. Then make fine adjustments to get best performance.

Yesterday, my wife and I took the kyacks out for a paddle around the lake. Was in the upper 70's, blue sky, no wind so the lake looked like a mirror, and the fall colours have gotten a good start. Was a very enjoyable paddle, and probably the last one until next spring. Today, we loaded the Cherokee onto the U Haul car transport, hooked it behind the Ram 1500 and headed to our Missouri location. Sure appreciated the 5.7 Hemi. It didn't miss a beat, got 13.9 mpg towi g that load, and had plenty of authority to get up to speed on the merge ramps. Sounded great getting up to speed, too. We were passing a motor homethat was flat towing a Wrangler. Hanging on the roof access laser on the back of the motor home was a sign that read "Actually, we do have all day." I chuckled for several miles over that one. Oh. Yea. Waved at @Pullstart as we passed near his neighborhood.

Kind of reminds me of a story a co worker told about playing with speaker locations and his stereo. He discovered that placing one in a heat duct made it sound better. He put a record of Bach's Tacata and Feuge in G minor played on a large organ in his stereo, turned it up, and shortly discovered that some of the base notes being played resonated in the heating system - they shook and rattled all through the house, ending his speaker placement experiment.

If you’ve satisfied yourself that the meter is more or less correct, then the next likeliest culprit is the voltage regulator. Make extra sure that the body of the regulator is solidly grounded--test with a good ohm meter between the regulator body and the battery negative post. Should be ZERO ohms. Anything more than zero is not ok. There is no easy on-tractor way to test a regulator thoroughly. Fortunately, they are not that expensive to replace!

Did almost 13 miles of pedaling today. Legs are sore, won’t ride tomorrow.

@muz123 @RandyLittrell have a happy birthday! Enjoy some cake and a tractor ride now, will ya?

Yes Sir . I ground out the inside with a de-burring tool. Makes quick work of the aluminum, easy peasy!

Bought a Troy Bilt "Horse" tiller a few years back. The big one with PTO drive probably from the 80's. PO was selling it for his brother who passed and had apparently not even used it. Has the Tecky motor and when I fired it up it smoked like crazy. Read about the reed plate upside down and checked it and sure enough it was. Must have been installed wrong from the factory as the tiller was like new. Turned reed plate with the hole down and runs like a charm with no smoke.

I'm with the pipe wrench group, vice grips just wont hold like a pipe wrench ..... I had a stuck one on a 'Big D' and only got it loose when I finally needed to pull the the whole unit for other work/repair. Got it on the bench and had to end up cobbling up a hold down apparatus (what a pain!) in order to use the pipe wrench, which a 10" wouldnt budge, switched to a 14 and cheater pipe and .... POW!! it finally gave up. Amazing how those things can get so stuck (kinda like a steering wheel) The flat blade slot was completely gone by then, so I welded a nut on the end .... comes loose real easy NOW!

Well here it is, October 3, 2023, over two years later. My progress? None. Engine hasn't been started since I left it in 2021. I moved at the parts off of the table and on to the wall to make more room for the latest 701. I'm looking at options for heating the pole shed, and if that happens, I'll get back to the restoration and reassembly this winter.

Come on Joe. Git it thogther You keep changing you handle. The Facebook police after ya?????

Joey Small Block is that you?

Just a word of warning. This applies to original and OEM carbs. Aftermarket and 3rd party carbs may have different thread pitches on the needle valves--typically more coarse threading. So far, every aftermarket carb I’ve installed came ready to run and I’m glad I did not mess with the needle valves before trying to start it. I only discovered the difference when I went to clean one a year or so later. Also, when getting ready to remove a needle valve, ALWAYS gently screw it in to the stop and write down the number of turns so you can put it back the way it was on reassembly!

I sold my neighbor a B-100 hydro that had a sticky tow valve that needed loosening up. His solution was pretty good . He placed a channel lock pliers on the tow valve hanging down and sprayed with penetrating fluid. He drove it around for a couple weeks and the bouncing around loosened it up! easiest method as far as I know!

Slow down a bit, it ain't no race. If you average 7 MPH or less it will make a big difference. When you are in better condition, then resume the race.

Was the frame work compromised, or did the lake bottom give way? That would be a sad day indeed!

Soak with penetrant. 8" Rigid brand pipe wrench.

Yeah, I got my 1.3 miles in also. May not walk today.

If it has round fenders (one each side and a square toolbox), it is an early one. 1962-64. The model names for them back then were: 1962 32E electric start 32R recoil start 1963 and 64 same format- 33R/E or 34R/E.

Painted the front porch stair rails today… gonna need another coat… After that I took the 84’ Work Horse and the 94’ 520H out for a trot to keep them limber… When I take them out like this I usually run them in reverse for a bit… just to move those gears as well. When I was going backwards on the Work Horse(8 speed) at WOT and high range, I noticed the tranny whining a bit. I know reverse on manuals usually make a little noise, but I am wondering if what seemed to me to be a little loud is normal…

Garry's on to something there. Could be multiple places. What's the age of the whole set of fuel lines ? Tank filter/strainer been replaced? Carb inlet could be an issue too.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=kt17&quick=1&type=downloads_file

I’ll check out AT to Z. As far as someone being in there before, no chance. I uncreated this puppy in the fall of 1976 brand new. Think I’d better be draining my oil and fishing in a telescoping magnet. Can’t imagine how these parts are missing but I never had this out before so I’m mystified.

I notice some make more noise than others. How does the oil look in it? I bet it’s just fine, but maybe add some Lucas oil stabilizer in now and the next fluid change? I add that stuff to about everything that takes oil!

Maybe. But, adding the idler pulley on the top will increase the wrap distance on the flywheel pulley. That should help to prevent belt slipping. While I am reading this thread, I am thinking about the large pile of brush I created on our property in Kentucky when I cleared a 40' by 60' area 2 years ago. The location in the woods is not conducive to burning. Grinding it up somehow is probably the easiest thing to do. That job is beyond my 5hp chipper/shredder, though. Rental of a commercial machine makes sense to catch up on the 'backlog' of brush.

This evening's fun was removing the flywheel side bearing. So far all the bolts for the case have backed right out. The outer bearing has two set screws that sit a little to each side of the keyway. The key is in further on the flywheel. Those set screws were BOTH loose. That made removing the bearing... a bear 🐻... because the cross shaft is scored. We sanded the outer portion of the cross shaft to remove as much rust and pitting as possible. I've plopped that bearing in the ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can free up some of the gunkiness. It moves well and straight but I feel like it's a hair too stiff. I started the penetrating oil cycle on the anvil. I was able to remove 2 of the 3 screws from the knife!! I'll heat the other one next time out there. The shaft is somewhat scored from the set screws being able to rotate with the bearing. It's still very much usable.

I only ever plan to go in Saturdays with tractors …unless Saturday is rained out, then I go on Sunday and just walk it.

Spindles between a 36 & 42 deck are NOT the same. 42 & 48 are, but not 36. 36 side and rear are the same.

I've got a couple older metal pumps here I could take apart to post pics.

My 76 had a worn out cam lobe for the fuel pump. Gravity really didn't feed the carb thru the pump. Went electric.

Cylinder walls. I've seen lots of them that looked nice but were either out of round, tapered out of spec or both. Of course if that was the case with yours you'd need it bored and an oversize piston that might even not be available. Tecky parts are drying up fast. I would have liked to see how it ran (if it would start) before deciding on a rebuild now but that's me. As the old saying goes you can't spoil a rotten egg.