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An interesting video that shows exactly what happens inside of your carburetor.

I bought a 48” deck site unseen 10 hours away with just a photo of the box . (Which is the first picture ) that’s the photo I bought it off of . I had it shipped and with being very busy i didn’t have time to take a look . Today I peeked in the box and seen something shiny and said this needs to be opened up to only find this 😬 . What a good day !

Today I got to look over this 1979 C-161 Briggs and Stratton powered Wheel Horse with the factory fiberglass black hood and back fender. Note the hoods head light lens opening is the older style not the two sealed beam type. And the hood stand is also off earlier models along with the rear fender molded different from the later versions. Even the exhaust has a factory cut out section in the hood. This particular Wheel Horse was used to power a sawmill, hence the chain sprocket on the PTO pulley. It needs a little work, but it is being restored. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

I got out the two C-85's and the set of 1973 8 HP three speeds just to take some pictures. I still have not put a battery in the boy's C-85 to see how well it runs plus I have to get him to mount the seat. His also has a set of rear axle snowplow blade brackets , plus the paint is a little nicer. My C-85 doesn't look like it was used very hard but seems to have developed a wiring problem as the starting solenoid is not always getting the current for energizing. And yes, I have noticed someone has been in the wiring before ..... I'll get it fixed. The second set of twins are the 1973 no name 8 HP three speed with the smaller tires ..... I just think they look neat! My boy bought his at the Annual Wheel Horse Show two years ago and is a good runner. Mine was repainted and decaled but to me still needs more work. I will convert mine to have working lights. I believe somewhere in my garage I have all the parts including the correct muffler. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

If oil starts leaking from the governor shaft too, that's a sure sign of too much crank case pressure and the breather valve installed incorrectly is the most common cause of that condition

I like the B-80’s as well, this is mine (1977). Great for putting around tractor shows, but occasionally I hang my 36” deck under it and mow the yard.

Some of the wiring done too

Got the gas tank ready to go on

I have that tractor in the automatic version, haven’t used it in years. I inherited it many years ago, but seeing this makes me want to go fire it up! @cschannuth has a fine example of the 8- speed version, perhaps the nicest one I’ve seen. I believe it belonged to his father? I don’t think he’s been on here for a while now?

Finally got time to finish my quick and dirty harrow build. Not anything fancy or pretty but it worked really good. I was extremely happy with how well it worked on my driveway. Of course the hydraulic lift on the 416 makes it really nice

I had thought of that but the DMM says yes. I used the old solenoid cause it had a nice patina and thought maybe dropping voltage thru that but checked good. Maybe those cables that Dan made me are bogus... think I should ask for my money back?

Over heated fuse holders are caused by poor connections within the holder. Replace with a 30 amp holder but keep the 25 amp fuse. The 30 amp holder has heavier wire and stronger spring for better fuse contact.

@c-series don That spot where it transitions from the narrow point to the wide area on the throttle side is where your air in the fuel mix starts the sweating phenomenon . Narrow point is high pressure and when it expands the pressure drops it cools and may condense. Add in the vacuum of the engine and you can get a very cold manifold Refrigeration works the same way. Hot liquid refrigerant passes through a point of expansion and gets very cold

C-105…wet from a bath

One of my favorite models as it has the opposed magnum 18 with electric lift . This is a true original survivor with low hours . After a year or two of chasing this one it’s finally made its way home . Fully went through it and it sure is a gem. IMG_6569.mov

Got a deck put on the 520-8

I still pop in from time to time. Here’s my late father’s 1978 he babied for decades before he passed when I got it and how it looks today. He replaced the original seat pan with the metal version. It still pushes snow 54” at a time every winter. Thanks for the nice words.

Will this help?

If it's a distinct loud pop, it's definitely an issue. That being said, it's not entirely unusual for a 40+ year old Kohler to have a little "burp" sound every few seconds. Especially when not revved high or no load. Usually a few housecleaning maintenance items will clear that up. Clean carb/ fuels system/ points/ electrical contacts. And also, ethanol-free fuel is the only way to go. No additive on earth or even 95 octane will prevent mediocre results and fuel system damage running ethanol fuel in an aluminum carburetor.

I VERY BRIEFLY walked through some tall grass last summer with long pants, while looking at a property for sale. Was back in the truck just a few minutes when I felt a tick on my arm… Got rid of it, after it had already given me the heebie jeebies, and a few minutes later found another crawling up my pant leg… Anytime you are in tall grass or walking through brush, always check your self for ticks… or have your partner do it. I said partner, not friend, buddy, homie, pal, bro, etc…

I'm back after a great week on the Del. Bay with Mrs. K, two sons and wives, four grandsons, and a friend. Some guality family time including fishing, crabbing, board games , eating, drinking, Mrs. Ks Birthday party, and the Annual Kennell Korn Hole Tournament.

I only got about one a year so hopefully this works.

Took the C-145 out today for a little rototilling in the garden did a very good job.

Out for a morning stroll.

Thanks for sharing Dan. Very interesting to actually see it happening. Their father son dynamic was almost just as interesting and that's how family should be

Having the best shop teacher in high school that a kid could imagine, he taught me how a carburetor works in our small engine course. Because of him, almost 40 years later I still like to learn and that’s why I watched that video. The slow motion part is awesome! That would be a great addition to any small engine course because it’s not complicated and simple to understand. @Achto Thanks for sharing!

that guy is awesome and does some good 2nd amendment stuff too. Another cool one is the The Slow Mo Guys Check out this magnetic field experiment. Kind of what goes on in your starter.

Apparently they had both. The K181 on my 854 was a vacuum. Same for one I worked on for a friend.

That was the first (and my favorite) blackhood and the only year for that hood tower and dash. I've never really warmed up to the large flat dash on the other models. Tagged a C-161 Twin (Automatic or 8-Speed). They also had a C-161 with a K-341 that year but it was a square hood.

Had it at a shop that rebuild generators we had it on a test bench the generator wouldn't put out no more then 5 amps it should be 10 to 15 amps without the regulator on it the starter part does not use that miney amps to start

I have one of these in the automatic flavor. Tucked away in really nice shape. Hasn't ran in years. I should get it going and bring it to the next big show.

points to @gwest_ca, that did it. Thanks.

As they say “You can do it all on a Wheel Horse!”

Could be either. Over full is easy to determine The breather reed valve needs to be installed properly

Checking the oil level is the easy place to start. But I would suspect the breather is installed incorrectly. If I remember correctly the Kohler manual has a good diagram of how it should install.

I love the innovation of welding the sprocket onto the PTO shell. I’m gonna file that idea away for future use!

Powering a Sawmill the engine may have a lot of hours, but the transmission might be mint condition (if they kept the rubber boot on the shifter) That sounds like an early one with that parts setup.

Axle cut to length and tacked. Spindle bushings made. Need a little more fitting for the spindle bushings to axle and grease zerks installed. Also need to machine the bushings for thrust bearings. Axle pivot pin bushing is the next major task.

This may not apply to your deck

Some 418’s for your viewing pleasure 🤣🤣 for Side Shot Sunday!

Thank you all so much for your help. After a few tries, I got the belt back on! I appreciate all of your input and thoughts, they were very helpful. @Ed Kennell this is my springer Milo! He's three years old.

So pulled the starter again and cleaned the paint off surfaces. Was abit red... & added star washers. Zero ohms between regulator body and B -. Seems to pull a bit better and actually started it but had give it a helping twist by hand. Once it gets rolling and the flywheel has some inertia runs it no problem. Finished restoring the steering wheel so get that on and put some hours on the motor. @oliver2-44 PC-7 and lots of sanding. Don't much care for the bedliner i got. Doesn’t have that rubber feel to it but is glossy.

hey @springerspaniel109 I've posted a picture of a mule drive in case you're not familiar with that term. From what I can see from yours, you might not have the adjusting knob on the front which might have led to your issue as the belt was too loose and wasn't adjusted. You'll need to be able to turn that screw shaft that the knob is supposed to be on. Clockwise would tighten the belt, and counter-clockwise will loosen it (or to provide slack in order to install a belt). Loosen the tension on the mule drive (counter-clockwise) and reinstall your belt on the large groove (closest to the motor) on the PTO and then route the belt, Vs in Vs, and flat side of the belt on flat pulleys. Once it's on, tighten the mule drive adjustment WITH THE TRACTOR NOT RUNNING. If your safety switches are still in place, someone will have to be on the seat with the PTO engaged, so you might need an assistant to adjust the tension on the belt with the mule drive to a point where the belt doesn't slip when you engage grass, but not overly tight.

Got good progress done today. About 10 or 11 feet filled in.

We bleed easy at this age Norm...and we heal hard and long.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

This one is going up for sale next weekend when I get back home. Tried to sell it with a noisy 36RD and mismatched wheels (color) but no interest. Wheels all match now and it has a quiet 42RD. First pic is how it looked a couple days ago.

Over the years I have replaced 4 or 5 fuel valves with the screens somewhat flattened, some more than others and it didn't seem to be an issue the way the tractor performed. That with all new fuel lines and filter. Yes they come out. A little lube helps to re install bushing/valve. Removing the fuel tank and cleaning it while your at it is worth it just in case.