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Just had a thought JIm. I had same issues with my 701 after restoration. Adding star washers under the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine and to the bolts that hold the gen to the bracket solved the issue. Fact now when I do a resto, one bolt on each part is now installed with a star washer. Much easier ground insurance that adding a pile of extra ground wires.

Maybe I answered my own question... The hoop has a hole in it there with busted off roll pin in it. If ya'll concur, I'll go digging for a roll pin that long. Or a bolt. or something.

Zagray summer show 2023. Few photos of my machines and this super cool hit and miss powered wheel horse.

Yup . We used to have to put hot air systems in cars in the old days to keep carbs becoming a block of ice in the winter.

Christmas in July? Expecting a turn of events?

I have never ever ever not one time met someone that thinks they're a plausible long-term usage piece of hardware... Yet... They still get used. When I find scotch locks on anything we own they get ripped out and replaced with proper connections. Always.

I used to carry an Epi Pen after the big incident 30 years ago but little by little I relaxed on that. They also expire after a while. I am happy to inform however that today there is one in the house in an obvious place that everyone knows and has access to, one in each of the vehicles, and one in my wife's purse.

Picked up this nice solid cart today. No holes and has original tires on it. Actually was sitting up on end out under pine trees. Can’t believe how solid it is. Will look good behind the rj58

Shaking down the GT-1800 after installing the Kohler. Still have a few things to do before a light refresh.

He is probably referring to the fittings being normal pipe threads and they probably carry jic fittings. Take your hose to a hydraulic shop. They will be able to match your fittings. You can also call wheel horse parts and more and he can make what you need.

That’s an interesting point, and one I’ve seen mentioned elsewhere. The “typical guy” tendency is to get the heaviest truck possible (in the USA at least) to tow a trailer so that he “doesn’t even know it’s back there.” But the super stiff suspensions can give the trailer a rougher ride than is necessary especially when the trailer is mated to the truck with an overly stiff weight distribution hitch (not something you see in Europe). The result, so I’ve seen on some RV trailer forums, is a lot of undue stress in the trailer frame that manifests in broken components and disheveled contents. I know there are real engineers at a lot of the trailer companies, and in fact I used to pal around with an engineer who worked at one of the higher-end camper manufacturers in Elkhart, but I’m not convinced they put much effort into structural analysis or any kind of optimization. RV’s tend to be built As toolsheds-on-flatbeds with the most engineering emphasis really being merely CAD design to make sure parts fit together and to generate an accurate bill of materials so the cost can be quantified. From the outside looking in, it generally appears that very little actual “engineering” is done or, at least, is adopted by the accounting departments. There are exceptions of course. Oliver comes to mind for the soundness of their construction, but even they don’t look to have poured a ton into suspension and some other details below the surface. Even Airstream has lost a bit of their reputation for being at a higher level in recent years, but they do offer a fundamentally more balanced platform as a result of taking a unique approach to their construction. This built-to-a-price point strategy isn’t unique to the RV industry. And, in fact this relative cheapening probably isn’t really driven by any particular industry as consumers predictably migrate to the lowest price options when given a choice. Evidenced by Walmart, dollar general, harbor freight, MTD, bass tracker, and any of the ubiquitous conglomerate RV brands. The unfortunate thing is that even in the premium brands that cost more - for instance with my Lund boat - if you dig a little you find places to be disappointed. I recently had the floors and decking out of my boat to do some repair and maintenance and the rat’s nest of wiring and excessive amount of construction debris still trapped under there 20 years later would embarrass even the biggest brand loyalist or factory rep. That said, most do offer real value commensurate with their pricing. So, there’s that… Steve

I had read about this years back from a luthier that likes to use it for his violins because of its lightness and acoustic properties. I however never used it nor had a single piece of it in my hands. It is a process of drying wood in this case ash that essentially alters the cellular composition of wood. It makes it lighter , more stable, more rot resistant than pressure treated wood and drastically changes its color. Wood dried this way is actually warranted for 25 years when used in decks. It’s expensive being only slightly less expensive than composite materials of the same application. No chemicals are used in process so it’s perfectly safe to use as opposed to many exotic species used in decks which have highly toxic and allergenic dust. As I said I never had a single piece in my hand. That was up to the day of the Wheel horse Show where Kevin @Pullstart gave me a truck load of it. Compared to regular Ash it works much better. It planes and looks like Walnut. I like it so much that I am going to attempt to get one of my ash planks in stock dried that way for a yoke. The color is simply outstanding. On a last but important note. I am always thankful for the day I joined this place. Nothing but good things and experiences have come of it. So much learned, so many opportunities, so many friends made, so much received that I have done nothing to deserve . What an outstanding group of people.Thank you all. thermally modified ash on left and air dried ash on right both in their natural state with no stain or finish.

I was going to say earlier today that it sounds like a grounding issue to me. I have two 701 short two pulley starter generators for my 701 that have both been rebuilt. A spare as k knew they were now rare. But Jim I know my 701 still starts slowly and builds up the cranking even with a new battery, good wire connections and ground. But my big ground is a more of a copper end than brass and seems to corrode. I have to clean it every little bit. The washer issue Dan mentioned is something I might also need to look into.

It is just junk… I will come get it and pay you 10% more than current scrap 🤷

You forgot to wire the genny! Just breaking your balls! Did you check voltage drop in the start circuit? Plus stainless doesn't conduct through all the paint as well as plain steel.

I caught up on a month’s worth of this thread waiting to pick my girls up from Chicago O’Hare. They have been in Germany while Mrs. P and I were in Alaska. We pretty much couldn’t possibly have place more space between us! Earlier I pushed a Horse or two out of the barn to get my Harley Davidson out for a cruise. That felt great to put some wind in my face!

which flavor? No, that’s not my back seat occipher…

Yessir, that is the fault. Best is to bite the bullet and get the correct roll pin--hardened spring steel is your friend in that place. The busted (rusted) one can be pushed out of the hoop using a roll pin punch.

Second phase of the TB testing today. And a nice sunny day. Checking for reactors to the injections on Tuesday. No adverse reactions it looks like. Back home a mowed the Widows back 1/2 acre, as heavy rain forecast for tomorrow. Bit of a shame that, as it's Silloth (Nearest town to me) vintage rally.

I am not sure but if you get a doctor prescription insurance pays for it. The ones I got cost 120.00 for a package of two. I paid less than five dollars.

Pretty sure it's script...

Older WH hydraulics use SAE#5 ORB (O ring Boss) fittings. (Later they switched to the much more common SAE#6 ORB) The SAE#5 are near impossible to find now. Lowell has hoses with them. i doubt any local hardware or even hydro place would have them.

Bee stings can be serious to some. Old Walt ran the hardware store in town. Trimming his bushes got stung and died on the spot. Another friend is deadly allergic and always carries a epi pen on his person. Get one Cas and carry it as close as a pocket knife. You just never know. Epi pens do have a shelf life tho and need to be replaced.

A few years ago the wife got stung and had the same reaction. Straight the to the ER. Kind of just made it to boot. One thing the ER Dr. ask me was I going to be around and home with my wife that evening. I said yes, what is up. She explained after those med wear off some of the problems can come back and your wife should not be left alone for the next 12 hours. Other wise we should keep her here. i did not know that. She has those pens with her all the time now.

Glad you're ok Cas. My father was also very allergic to bee stings. Late in life he lived in a trailer home out in the country which equaled bees nests. I bought him a case of Brake cleaner for Christmas once. He asked what was it for and I said Bees!! Best bee killer there is and back then those cans would shoot a good 10 feet. He could crack the door and destroy a nest from the safety of the inside of the trailer. Following Christmas he asked for another case.

Hoses come in different grades. Same with fittings. I have gotten hoses on line that last maybe a year before they start seeping. Our Napa uses 3 wire hose and top grade fittings from Eaton (Weatherhead) Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

You could be on to some thing with the post that you found. Would be worth it to take a look at your switch. In my younger years working on a farm, my boss had an Allis Chalmers D17. After using it, I would park it in the shed, shut it off, get off the tractor, walk about 10 to 15 steps away from it and then.... BANG! Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened. Told the boss about it and he just laughed & said "Yup, it does that some times". After that I would just walk away after shutting it off, counting in my head in anticipation of it back firing.

Not by definition maybe… or maybe the definition needs another expansion?

Agreed. I'm lucky enough to have a great hydraulic repair shop near my work that's reasonably priced.... For what they do. Even then, Lowell's pricing on the correct hoses with no adapters is FAR better. Second vote to call Lowell.

Was it mine I'd consider 2 options. 1. Contact Then and Now Automotive in or near Weymouth MA. They may have a kit for the "six screw" type pump. 2. Get a more readily available and still correct old style metal pump. Rebuild that, and install.

Been super busy lately and not super motivated with this heat lol. Here’s the next quick project. 604 k161 swap. Pretty much a bolt on engine swap.

I will check it out. I am taking it to have the taper check and see if it is out of round in the morning. So i figured I would give her a bath!

Did a little tonight got the ing. coil, the points and adjusted them and the exhaust bracket on

You just don't hear stuff like that every day

Red brakleen…..problem solved.

Maybe you can jump a temp ground wire to the genny bolt to see if that's the issue. Too much new paint

Got it moving tonight. I put a new fuse block in it and that fixed my starting and charging issue. After this video I dialed in the carb a little better. I fixed the broken shifter so I could change gears. The roll pin in the collar on the shift lever was broken, replaced that and good to go, changed fluids, amd pressure washed it. Probably tinker with it some more and then it'll be for sale I think. received_809327540632421.mp4

I think I might have been missing out on something here @Wheel-N-It ?

My thoughts too Ineed...next step is to jumper a bigger CCA. See what shakes. Battery in use fully charged reads good on a load tester but .

No 3 on the tree, 5 on the floor and dimmer on the floor with 2 - 60 AC. She's under weight with juice brakes so no CDL required. Just a really big pick up truck, that's all.

I rewire every trailer I get. They are mass produced by using folks who's skills are suited for an assembly line and not electrical work.. Scotch locks are cheap and fast. They usually run a tail light wire to the back and scotch lock off of that for running lights. Open trailers aren't so bad to fix but enclosed trailers are tough and add in insulation for a reefer trailer you got a mess.

I think i will! I agree I’m thinking wash it up and get it clean then coat it

That Kohler looks right at home. Very close in appearance to the Briggs. Great Job.

Scotch Locks are horrible. They damage the wire going on, then shake loose and get hot and/or intermittent.

I just used the deck wheels on the mower and let it float.

I've on;y had one that would backfire on shut down but turning it off at full throttle solved the problem.

On mine I bring the RPM down to idle for about 10 seconds, turn the key to off, then immediately raise the throttle to max. Something to do with having more air than fuel? @Achto or @wallfish was it you that taught me that?

Likely they'll need to bore .010 or .020 to get that line out. Do you have a source for the piston and rod?

@mower there is a thread under the Instructional section under Engines and titled Small Block Kohler Rebuild. I know you have a Tecumseh but this thread has a lot of good applicable info.