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I used a bowl on mine, just for sedimental reasons.

Tasha’s C125 got to take a break for a bit the first part of the season, took it to the Pawnee OK show for the WH feature, and took it to a parade Saturday. But vacation is over, time to go to work. Mounted up the mower deck today and mowed about half of the yard before it started looking like rain moving in, once again impressed with how well these old Horses do at mowing. And might as well throw in a pic from Saturday, loaded up and ready to come home

Betting you know that the fronts are on backwards @BrianKoch Just trying to be different or lack of 4WD doesn't matter!?!? Still nice looking rig... Did a two seater today thank you @Pullstart & took it for a love ❤️ ride. Maybe a cocktail cruise on it tonite to get her in the mood. It was enny minny mighty moe on which tractor to put it on. This one just runs ssssooo sweet. Solid mounts on order now she's got a purpose. Was going to put a deck on her ...easier to sell... and send her down the road but not no more. Had to butch the legs off which I didn't want to do. Figured I could make it into a cool shop love sofa for the off season. Dibs on another one if yer heavy on them. Well then I discovered this Kev... gum underneath and repaired corner... hey I want a refundIf these seats could talk...

The 310 is getting a work out this week

Well dang, I'm sure grateful that this place exists. We just got ourselves 5 acres on the Eastern Shore Maryland, and a family member said "we have a riding mower that has been in our garage since we bought the house 14 years ago if you want it". Well, went and got it Sunday. actually hadn't been TOUCHED in 14+ years I didn't have a trailer yet - so we took off the hood and the deck, and 2 of us manually lifted into the back of my tahoe! she fit!!! went and cleaned out the fuel tank, changed the spark plugs, new batter, gave her some affirming language "c'mon baby you know you want to", and after about 5 minutes, she fired up!!!

A little after work project. @WHX??'s 701 turned red today.

Mounted mower deck!

Some young lady heard that I tinker with tractors and asked about hers that she bought new. I explained that on my brand of tractor it is easy to research the parts it needs. She's needs to get her books out of at least pull the model numbers from the tractor and deck so we can find aftermarket parts at reasonable prices. This was last November I got a text a month ago from her wanting me to give it a look see. Lawns were really starting to grow then after a slow start. The usual thing...had to jump battery to get it going, but surprisingly it did start but not idle. When she manually engaged the deck,the mower just about jumped off the tractor. She texted the tractor model to me but not the mower. Somehow she ordered the part ...at least one completely wallowed out mower pulley. Wondered if I could mow her lawn and offered to pay? I said ok for thirty an hour, but if it had not been mowed since three weeks ago, I would have to mow it at least twice. She left me hanging on that text and I called her because she never responded one way or the other. She could not afford that. It's a half acre lot.. and she figured I would be there two hours. Just wow.I am mowing mine about every four days, but should hit a weekly schedule once those tough and pesky seed heads from native bluegrass and side ditch fescue soften back up. Her grass is a least a foot tall. Oh, and I looked at her mower for free the first time . A ten mile round trip. I wish her well, but somehow I doubt that she has enough friends to bail her out. I explained to her that when I commit to doing something like mowing her lawn that I had to charge at least enough to pay for a torn belt because of the long grass. I wish her well.

Been kinda busy lately, but I finished the "hitch" side of this build tonight. Decided to make this hitch perform two different jobs while I was at it. It will work as a front receiver for moving my trailer when not bush hoggin. I built this to use both the belly and front Tach-a-matic. That'll keep it from rocking upward if the front mower tries to jump, and it'll just be a while lot stronger this way as well. Probably have to get some better pins, but these will work for now.

AG tires on the steer axle of a 2WD tractor will steer better if mounted that way.

Not much I can tell you that Dan @Achto didn't already say. A tiller will actually push a tractor with a hydro whenever the going gets tough so you want to have both tractors, one for each attachment.

Wow... another sssaawwweeettt looking hood. I'll get them out of the way tomorrow. Hood will stay Dan for you to letter. I did get the roller out and will get on it after some paint cure. Hopefully the new red will not clash with the green tires or that fine fine seat... Getting jacked up to have it done by Plainfield show. Dilemma... should I use a sediment bowl on the gas tank or just a gas cock? Wished all life's decisions were this hard!

Hey all! Been neglecting the forum lately (Still remodeling my house, getting married, have a baby on the way, etc etc.) but mowing season always brings me around. The last local salvage yard sold recently and they're clearing out before the new overs take over. I've bought multiple vehicles and parts from this place for years, and I've always wanted this old Sears that was buried back in a corner. I'd inquired a few times about it and the old man that owned the place always said he planned to get it out and use it. His son has been running the place for the last year or so, and I saw the tractor out of its hole and out by the front fence. I stopped in and looked at it and snagged it for $55. Story was it started knocking and they shut it down. Has a horizontal 18hp Briggs twin. Came with a vertical shaft engine for parts. I got it home, poured some gas in the tank and cranked it over.. and it cranked much too fast. A quick finger over the spark plug hole confirmed that one rod had let go, so I tore it down. I don't have any internal pictures right now, but it threw a rod, broke the cam, and the governor shaft boss. Luckily, the vertical shaft engine has the same diameter crank output shaft, though it is longer. I can work with that and modify a pulley to sit in the right place for the mower drive. I swapped the dippers onto the vertical shaft engine, as well as the oil pan and side cover before I realized that I needed to drill the boss for the oil dip stick. I have that drilled now and need to verify that I caught all of the metal shavings (I didn't pull it apart to drill it but I put grease on the bit and over the hole and caught most all of it) before putting the pan back on again. After that, I'll be down to swapping intake and carb, muffler, exhaust shields, etc. ` It has good ag tires on the back with 55LB wheel wheights, as well as brand new (20 year old) front tires. Should make a good mowing rig! I have a disc from my Sears SS14 (project for another day) which has a manual 3 point, but I also have an electric 3 point from my Sears GT19.9 that I'll probably swap onto it. If you study the photo, someone has bent and added (quite well I might add) a piece of 3/4" solid bar to the front perimeter of the deck for reinforcement!

Man that mule drive crank looks familiar.

@WHX?? Jim, you should thank your lucky stars, you've got a friend like Dan. Fantastic paint job once again, Dan.

That is sumply funny...

Some brands have arrows on the side walls indicating to mount them backwards if on a non driving wheel.

Use whatever arrangement lets the belt run closest to the center of the flat pulley, without the pulley rubbing on anything.

That was my assumption, but I don't really want to assume too much. Most people I've talked opposed B&S engines with have NEVER seen one with an oil filter and swore they never existed until I showed them examples I've ran for years So I'm not going to make crazy assumptions.

Looks like you have your ow3n tractor show right at home.

Somewhat off-topic, but I note your interesting hydro pedal (top photo). I am currently converting my 518H and would be interested in knowing a bit more about your set up. Where did you get it from and do you have any more pictures please? Many thanks!

The B-100 Auto is a very capable tractor. You'll not be disappointed. One comment: Do not EVER pull up the engagement lever... PARKING BRAKE... at any time while moving. You WILL tear up gears in the trans. Only pull up the lever when at FULL STOP. For the same reason you don't throw your car/truck into PARK...don't do it here either.

Basically they are light oils that soak into the rusted areas to help free things up.

The B100 automatic would be very handy for mowing lawn. Much easier to change direction and speed. The Raider 10 would be better suited on the tiller. A standard transmission does a better job of maintaining ground speed while the tiller is trying to push the tractor forward, As a general rule most prefer a standard transmission for ground engaging implements and a hydro/automatic for mowing or snow blowing.

The ignition coil for a battery ignition system should have an internal resistor built in that reduces the reading to 3 ohms. A higher resistance may result in less spark being developed because not enough of a magnetic field. A good spark plug could be used to test spark. Be surer the condenser you bought is for a battery ignition system. The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582. The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301 The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function. Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

Test it with a multimeter first. Factory gauges are not the most accurate things on the planet.

@WHX?? that gum is an up charge!

The BBT has em on her Military Tribute Tractor, mounted regular ole fashioned way. Looks cool there. She says the grip is good. I have a set of 6/12 AGs on the front of my 1974 C160 Cinnamon Horse. I've tried them both forward and reverse facing. There's a HUGE difference in steering capability with them reverse mounted. But. That's a pretty heavy front end.

Never knew that EB but truth be told never cared for ags on the front of a . to each his his own tho. Wouldn't be beyond it if a pair fell from the sky and had nothing better to do.

Yes sir! Thanks for the hookup, Ed. Hope all is well

Post photo of “young lady” and maybe the tractor, there may be someone that will take over where you left off.

glad you listened and sought us out.

The pedal is from a Kubota. You can pick them up cheap on Fleabay. My setup however, is being reworked. The original had too many moving parts. It worked, but I'm changing it.

I don't have many pics of the mount I built, but as Don said it's just some angle and flat bar. The Vanguard footprint is really small, and can fit inside the typical Kohler bolt pattern. What will bite you is making sure the side-to-side PTO placement is correct. My Vanguard is set about an inch towards the flywheel side to align the main drive pulley as well. Of course that is where the breather issue gets worse as well.

There’s usually not…it’s usually another month before I have to mow the first time. This year we’ve had enough rain that I’ve already mowed the front circle twice

I told you this was a good group of guys……

I love that yard setup Bryce! I’m surprised to see so much grass in the high desert

If there is high resistance between the regulator/rectifier body and the battery "-" terminal it will try to overcome it by producing a higher voltage. Here is an explanation of the problems that can be caused by corrosion on electrical connections that was provided by @Save Old Iron The connectors used in this tractor series are in a harsh, corrosive environment caused by vapors from the battery being charged over a few decades.. Vibration causes the connections to loosen - corrosion starts within the metal terminals and a voltage drop develops across the corrosion. If you have a 10 amp current flowing across a 1 ohm resistance (contact corrosion) the electrical formula to calculate power is current squared times resistance so 10 amps x 10amps x 1 ohm resistance = 100 watts !! 100 watts of connector heating is the same as laying a 100 watt soldering iron on the connector

Make sure your rectifier is grounded very well.

@Horse Newbie Nice work! but... that color... You can go blind lookin' at it...

I engaged the PTO and then put a pipe wrench on the PTO pulley. Worked well just going easy back and forth.

Lookin REAL good big guy... keep at it!

Yes oxen yokes. These may be a little different than the ones usually seen.

After work today I washed the top side of the Cub deck (this is a sharpen blades and clean underneath project)… no painting the deck this time. Sharpened the two blades, and of course I had to paint them… Washed the other deck parts…

Kerosene & Marvel Mystery oil in cylinder for about a week, then put a breaker bar & socket on the flywheel nut. Work it slowly. small amounts in both directions. Soak it some more. Work it some more, small increments at first. Good Luck.

In pi one acceptable reading is 6,000 to 10,000

The other day I found this on a newly acquired '97 520-H. I know this had been sitting for the last year, maybe two... and was only on snowblower duty at that point. But with summer coming on quickly I don't want to run without proper cooling installed. So, I got the part ordered, and literally a 2 minute service to change the fan body, including r&r of the wheel. It's the little things that can make a happy spot in your day, right?