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Made a few improvements to carving table . Now that I do not have the need nor the desire to do projects for anyone else, it seems that the carving table is always attached to bench being used very often. That has also created the need for another addition to the bench in the form of a leg vise since carving table partially obstructs the main vise that I use most. Reinforced old crack on table even though it was stable and solid. Added and improved tool shelf . Bottom support ledge can now be mounted also vertically for added support and it is adjustable Tool shelf keeps tools with cutting edges toward me for quick selection .It pivots independently of table and can be removed in less than a minute altogether with tools on them. Added the ability to use carver’s screws to allow secure holding of odd carvings without using any holdfasts or clamps. They also allow carving to be rotated for easy access. A permanent captive nut is fastened to back of table in two areas. Small hodfasts can be used over entire area. Table is also now where all drafting and drawing is done. As a result of carving table partially obstructing main vise another one was devised. Leg vise uses door and already existing bench slave clamp holes present also on drawers. No modifications to bench except enlarging bottom hole and adding a copper sleeve for fulcrum point. Door is still usable as long as nothing is clamped on vise. Vise is quickly removable if not needed. Although vise is light and removable it is incredibly strong. It has an opening capacity of 4” and 12” to screw Center of bench is now again fully usable since other end is also usually taken up with another task.

Hi. What would the original seat look like and do you think this is the original steering wheel? Thanks John

Our 5 x 8 heavy duty utility trailer has been needing new deck boards for a few years. We've thrown some temp boards in once maybe 3 years ago ((??)) Worked fine but now it's time to fix it long term. Trina's next destruction/rebuilding project is to remove the KD and OSB, scuff off as much rust as possible, repaint and install nice new PT 2 x 8 boards.

While mowing with the 48" SD yesterday I noticed the blades slowed in the heavy grass. I suspected the deck belt may need replaced, so off came the deck today. The belt was good, but the tensioner slide was locked with dead grass and gunk. Cleaned that up aand got the slide working. Then I found the center pulley loose on the spindle. The rare DD of course. With a wallowed out hole. I dug through some buckets and found this in the 4th one. A different number, but all measurements checked the old pulley. A perfect fit.

First day out since being upgraded. Thursday? Oh well it'll be Saturday soon enough. One more for the heck of it.

Well least they got a Mickie Ds...

Seat & steering wheel are not correct for that tractor. These pictures are of a 867. The seat is not original, but as close as I could find new. Your seat should look similar. Your steering wheel should be the same as the one in the pictures. I believe that I purchased the seat from - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/177-kb-horse-parts/

And that's the way it was ... Walter Crankcase... err Cronkite...

A day late. Got plenty wider, but still wider than stock.

Slide carbs offer poor Power response at low throttle inputs, a small engine running at 3600 with no load only uses about 5-10% of the actual throttle throw on the carb, but when load is added, you want immediate response. A side or down draft butterfly carb offers excellent idle, mid range mixing, and throttle response. A constant velocity carb helps the response by simulating a smaller carb at lower speeds...however they are finicky. As mentioned, linear governor linkages can be complicated with a cable driven system...as well, the slide would be making hundreds of movements a minute, wear would be a problem.

Maybe a little bit......a 1972 Yarbrough MFG Comet. It works great behind my RAV 4. The key is with the little tires is to not be a speed demon. The tires say do not exceed 55mph and they mean it. When the tires get the faintest hint of dry rot, replace them and don't wait to do it. Also it bounces a whole lot when it's empty. I've used mine a lot but you just can't fly when pulling it.

This is what I used on my first show so far. Two laminated A3 sheets with some info on the build and a QR-code people can scan with their phone which leads to my Instagram profile (where I post progress of my build).

Zach, I have a few more here needing work when you’re done! Great work!

More excavation after work today. Not sure what my motrin intake would be without power but I'm sure it wouldn't be healthy.

The folks from The Badge Factory used to come to the big show, very nice people. That’s where I got mine from because I don’t have the talent that @Achto has! 👍🏻

That's awesome when even the work surface and set up itself is a work of art to work on art! Clever design!

May I suggest you unbundle those PT boards, get them higher off the ground so they will dry out as much as possible. I realize the trailer floor will get wet in service, but its amazing how much some of those boards can shrink when dry. so that's why I like to install them relativity dry When I repainted my trailer after scuffing it up, I coated the rusty areas with OSPO to somewhat neutralize the rust. I used the Hammered Black paint with a spray gun and semi-don't recommend it. It faded quickly and lost the "hammered look" But it has been on there for 8 years and has not peeled or let rust occur, but it does to appear to be wearing thin from age.

Landscape Trailer. They also make 4 place sled trailers.

Wider’n some, skinnier’n others… P.S. the ice auger don’t work so great in dirt.

Bought a new Triton aluminum trailer in 1995 and used it for many things for 20 years. On a regular basis that trailer went from Mass to Maine in all kinds of weather on a 470 mile round trip back and forth to camp. Never any failures but always carried 2 spare tires ready to go just in case. In the later years I added the clamshell cover to be able to get more use out of it and keep things dry. Pictured is the trailer with stake pockets and a home made rack body if you will. Sold it 3 years ago with the sale of 2 snowmobiles. Worked great for WH tractors as well.

He's got more talent Don in his piggy toe then all of us put together! Good idea on the QR code @sjoemie himself to your build or website or whatever . Not an avid FBer but good idea if one is.

Garry, @gwest_ca is the best. He has done so many things to help us that he would be my nominee for man of the century if we had such a thing.

Wow! And here I was thinking I was doing something with a plastic plaque!😂

—and he is even saying, “What’s next?”

I have one. It’s kind of my only open trailer. I realize I didn’t take many trailer pictures, but it is likely overloaded with two heavy GTs on it. I have brand new tires and wheels and fresh grease in the bearings. It won’t much leave the county.

Small update! Since I wasn't satisfied with how my homemade mufflers looked and sounded I was on the lookout for something else. I debated making a new pair but decided against that because... I finally got my hands on two brand new IH Cub mufflers. They were about $60 a piece so I can't really complain about that. Oh, did I mention they look awesome Only thing I did'nt like is that they're a bit short. So a trip to the car-accessories store was made to find a extention. Unfortunately without luck since this muffler is so small. I looked online and stumbled upon these.. they are, believe it or not, vacuum cleaner tubes and they fit perfectly! All I need to do now is mount them and make some miniature flappers. Hopefully I can mount them coming weekend, fingers crossed!

My 2¢ here... It pretty much no longer matters where a part is manufactured or even assembled. High quality machine equipment is everywhere and, except for certain high-tech industries like chipmaking, the knowledge of how to make stuff and put it together is essentially global. Much more important, IMHO, are the quality of the materials being used and the standards and specifications being applied to the manufacture and assembly. These (along with shipping) are the main drivers of quality and price. Unfortunately, none of this information is readily available to us for general consumer products and parts where there are few to no standards beyond basic safety (e.g. a UL-listing or the CE mark and some ASTM standards). Still, for many if not most products, using a country of manufacture or assembly, any country (even the US), as a shorthand for quality of product has become a useless and misleading exercise. Climbing down off my soapbox now.

A little TLC and a good bath should make it a great worker. The belt guard needs to be replaced or you will be grinding a few gears.

Just remember that the regulator has nothing to do with spark. It's function is to keep the battery charged.

Finally got the concrete pad down for the conservatory. It rained as soon as we finished, so had to go back out and try to fix the surface. Then the neighbours dog walked through it, so I fixed that. Then one of the cats walked through it, so I fixed that.... Back at sea again for two weeks, building conservatory will be first job when I get home.

There is a product made by CRC called Lectra-Motive. It's an electric parts cleaner. Use that to clean the stator. It's specially designed to clean the stator windings without damaging the insulation on them. Excellent product for removing dirt and grease. I've used it to degrease many small parts. Berryman also makes a version of this product as well. Just Google Electric Motor Cleaner.

Or @Pullstart, you could have used a little itty bitty funnel and filled it through the valve stem…

Whoever invented that should win a Nobel prize!

Squeaky fresh ... 'fraid it was Lite... hi test was in use other places... prolly shoulda fed it Cap'ns...

Excellent tutorial... But, he left out two critical initial steps... drink beer number 2 while waiting for oil to heat up, drink beer number 3 whilst waiting for curds to deep fry... I mean, really? A Wisconsin activity that only entails one beer?

After you get done detailing it, a nice custom sign from @Achto would be fine... Now about your battery charging techniques... were they fresh curds? Wasn't a light beer was it?

That really is awesome, and so is your son! I would think such a thing would blow most of the other kids minds! Most kids nowadays ask Siri how to change a lightbulb, or they ask "who" to call for such...

Thanks Richard for the clarification and careful explanation. We got everything wired up yesterday and now are well on the road of reassembly. Zach is having so much fun putting the pieces back together… I purchased to chromed button heads for the highly visible outer fender bolts and here Zach is installing those. He is getting to use “his tools” throughout the process and I have to keep reminding myself that this kid is only 9 years old. He is doing such a great job. I’m hoping that we can arrange for a “show-and-tell” at the school before the end of the school year. That smile is priceless!

Well, I had some moments with the 314-8 73400 model 590000serial series. I think that makes it a 94 or 95 model. . The de-mist guide suggests skipping past some steps and doing the simple tests first. It was not until I had figured out how to make that tractor run that i figured out an emergency repair that would allow me to get the yard mowed. All the things electrical that had previously done were on the coil,points, and condenser models , and that christmas tree full of lights was not working at all and it had previously worked. i took the battery and then the key switch out and the switch had heavy corrosion on it. The De mist guide called out no continuity on off position, but i knew that one of the pins at the back of the switch grounded out the mag and killed the spark then on start position there were three pins that connected and three different ones on the run position So a bad switch for sure. On a mag style engine, it will keep running, so I could pull the spark plug wire to shut it down if needed. The machine would not run with the blade engaged, so I knew i could start it with a jumper and maybe have to ground it out on the kill circuit from the back of the key switch. so with the key switch removed and knowing which connector pin operated the kill and start circuit, the whole shebang ran with the application of current to the start pin and application of ground to the kill circuit.Without the key installed, the blade engagement did not kill the circuit. Of course, it is a good idea to have a fuse in the jump wire in case you make a mistake. I learned that the hard way years back messing around with honda seventies motorcycles. Five or ten amps is plenty of fuse when the tractor has solenoid protected circuits as does the modern series of tractors. What really is outstanding about Redsquare is that the file moderator put up an in color wiring diagram for another member that i ran across. it was a much better diagram than i previously found an then it started making more sense

You should be fine with either of those cleaners, blow off all the dry crud you can and then spray and blow dry areas from the top down.

Long as your showing 1054s... pics courtesy of @Shynon I don't have any of my own Tom ... too busy fixing yer screw ups...

That (very early) model didn’t come with a long handled angle lock release--ya gotta get under there and lift the spring-loaded pin! In my opinion, that lowers its value compared to the later ones where you can stay seated and release the lock.

Onans and Vanguards use Mikuni carbs. And yes they are much more finicky than a Carter or Kohler or even most Walbro. They certainly don't run well when dirty or gummed at all. Otherwise they are awesome. The sediment bowl being part of the body is a design flaw in my opinion. The ability to drop the bowl and get rid of sludge is a huge plus.

Hey @SylvanLakeWH! @Achtoand @WHX?? got nothin on the true Mitten State now! Even @Mikey the Monkey can make ‘em trimming cow hoofs!

Many sir, many...

This is a good point so I want to clarify my recommendation above. SOME brands of brake clean state they are safe to use on electric motors and windings and electronics in general. Other brands make no such claims and in fact there are recommendations online against it. Do your own research. Confirm that your situation is compatible.

@rmaynard Yes, I know. Thanks. Initially, when it wouldn't start, I saw dangling wires and thought perhaps that was related. After looking closely, I saw it was regulator. Nonetheless, I appreciate you offering that clarity. It speaks well for you and your willingness to help. Thanks again

So this should be something new. Adjustable air ride. Just quickly set it up temp to see how they work and get some inspiration ideas how to fit them. Might redesign some stuff to slam it low for park and then raise it to any comfort level for cruising. The spring coil overs I have are a little stiff but they look good and match the front, so we'll see how it goes.