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So here it is… my newly acquired 1977 C-160. Drove 89 miles one way to scoop her up… So far here are the obvious things that will need doing… 1. Oil change 2. Check/ charge battery 3. Investigate why my electrical hoses were leaking smoke while I was trying to unload her. 4. Repair or rewire those smoking hoses. 5. When I get her running, flush and refill transmission. 6. Rub down her work clothes with a penetrating fluid to freshen up her threads. 7. Replace front wheel bearings… hope the lack of which did not ruin front spindles. 8. Replace shifter boot. And that’s just a start… here are a few pics…

Mine is still waiting patiently for something.

No worries folks. We've got plenty up here!! In the last couple weeks we've had something like 29 in he's of snow and some sleet ice rain to add in just for the hekkuvitt.

It can be done by cutting the pipe about ½" from the engine then making a slice through that pipe to the threads. One small shallow notch in the threads won't hurt anything. Use a good punch or thick chisel to curl the pipe inward on itself and it'll break the rust tension while turning out...

Walls went up fast, it's heavy work but the progress is pleasing. The roof was no good so I had to buy tin and adapt it to suit. The original fibre cement bolted to the steel trusses but I added wooden purlins to take the tin.

this kid!

Hey, I remember those days.

It’ll be Saturday soon enough…

This happened today. @WheelHorse_Kid asked our neighbor Kyle for some help heating his engine block on the C-121 in hopes of getting the rusted pipe out. The exhaust has been broken since he got it. Now before anyone comments about Kyle’s work truck let me say this. The kid works for our local Deere dealer but collects wheel horses. I don’t have a set of torches at home and he happens to have them on his truck. We were unsuccessful today but already have the plan in motion to get the last of the pipe out of the block tomorrow with some cutting and a chisel. I added a photo of Kyle on my 753 driving with Aiden my oldest son. Kyle bought his first wheel horse from me when he was about 14 and has hung around here since. It created a friendship and we have gone on countless tractor runs, to dozens of shows together. Back before he started working we spent many long nights working on tractors in the garage.

I have popped a rabbit here and there. I’m beginning to love the different ways to cook it! Right outside the house, they have no plans to quit coming around I see!

Mid 50s here today, but more normal mid 30 temps are forecast for tomorrow. All help to lessen the fuel oil usage is welcomed.

Good thing you have that kite string there to hold the snow back, Eric!!!

This reminds me of a story: Years ago my oldest brother brought a rabbit home for Mom to cook. This was not out of the ordinary. It was a good sized rabbit. Back then Mom cooked game in a pressure cooker to help tenderize it. When it was done she pulled it out and it looked like a stringy old mop head. Yep it was a 'Jack Rabbit" not a cotton tail rabbit The dogs ate well that night. We had sandwiches.

I'm trying to find out about this tractor if it's been repainted or what. Model number is 104758 serial 937502 I want to make an offer for it but not sure what is fair also. Any info or advice?

All: A while back, I posted regarding finding a suitable replacement for the almost unobtainable Lucas Green X-Tra HD grease that some (most??) here regard to be the best suited product to keep our WH toys alive.... First off a tip of the WH cap to three members - @peter lena, @Handy Don, and our resident YT guy @Pullstart....... I recently bought 2 late 1960's gear drive cutting decks - a rather nice 32" and a roached 36". I intend to go thru the 32" with a cleaning, new needle bearings and seals. Here is the opportunity to do a side-by-side comparison of the two grease products run under the same conditions and evaluated. Per Pete Lena's advise. I cleaned out the 2 cross shaft bearings, one repacked with Lucas Green, the other with JD Green. I will be trading some deck parts with Don shortly to make the deck complete. I will assemble each side with it's respective grease - bearings, gears, spindles. I intend to gather "before" pictures and free running torque readings, then in MAY or so, mount this unit on a Round Hood , cut the grass, and take temperature readings and repeat the free running torque. There will only be data presented, NO YT video, Unless Kevin wishes to reinact this exercise and make his own, best done with cardboard cutouts and hand sock puppets !!! All in fun there guys, just figured why not use one of my own toys for this study. More later, a lot later....

NO! He needs to give it to me! He knows where I live and can even deliver it!

Somebody went to alot of trouble to make that thing ugly. But paint can be removed...

It's been a while, but we have completed a few projects since last posting on here. It was all hands on deck to get the workshop built before winter - weather was against us but we managed to get the concrete done and the structure up just in time. I needed it built ASAP as got challenged to a Christmas project at work - to build a boat out of 1 sheet of plywood and race it on Xmas day! Will post about that in due course... The workshop is up, but it's not a pretty building - however it's an important one. Pictures as always, first one is the completed pad. I just had a weather window the day before heading back to work to get it laid.

My mom always used to ‘Skin’ them first.😂🤣

Grab that 60s tractor in the back too! A couple of pics doesn't really tell enough to say exactly what it's worth. Does it run? Can you drive it and test it out thoroughly? Does it run good? No smoke? No funny noises? ticking? No trans noises? Does the trans still hold power after warming up? What else is missing besides the belt guard? Is the battery good? Is the steering tight? Tires? Etc Etc Etc Lots of stuff to consider.

Finished the garage conversion by laying thick plastic floor tiles today. It's lovely and warm in there thanks to fitting radiators connected to the central heating system of the house. Time to start mmoving machines in.

Nice find, guess you released all the magic smoke and need some wires. The "S" tells you your engine came with an electric starter. Click on this link and then on page 2 you will find your Spec. number. Follow that line across the page and it will show a code number for each group of parts and the ones that have your code number (in this case 2 for the crankshaft) will show that your engine left the factory with ballance gears.

On Kohler K models the number represents cubic inches and cylinders. K341 = 34 C.I. one cylinder.

A Haiku Horse Newbie got one @ebinmaine caught slacking Oh the horror

Looking good, and doesn't there always seem to be something else left to do? On another note and it may be a non-issue if you don't ever spray you motor down, but you really never want water to lay on the business end of the condenser. If the wire has enough length, you might want to flip it over when you install the new solenoid

With work & other things getting in my way I have only been getting basically one day a week to work on the project. This weekend's goal was to get the Ross box ready. The Ross box that was in this tractor was from a Cub Cadet and the shaft was on inch short for this application. @WHX?? was nice enough to set me up with a Ross box that was correct for a 953 but it had some damage. The goal - make one good set up out of the two. A pic of the correct Ross box that I got from Jim. You can see that the bottom has some chunks missing and one of the threaded mounting holes is damaged. I removed the shaft and the tube from both steering boxes Unfortunately both tubes were damaged during this process but luckily I had a tube from a bed frame that had the correct outside diameter that I could cut to the correct length. I do kind of wish that I could have used the steering shaft from the Cub Cadet. Looking at the picture below the CC shaft had a better reduction than the one. CC on the right on the left. One thing that I could use from the CC box was the bottom cap. This cap is used to set the end play on the bearings. Once set there is a cotter pin installed to keep the nut/cap from backing out. The CC cap has more notches to allow for finer tuning of the end play. The cap/nut for the only has a strait slot which does not allow as fine of tuning for the bearing end play. In the pic below the Cub Cadet cap is the upper one, is the lower one. After a bunch of work, I now have a good Ross box that will fit & work as it should on my tractor. Other than this the only thing that I accomplished was getting a few more parts sand blasted.

BTW… to all you patina lovers, what type of oil, penetrate, do you use for a paint feeding rub down ?

Well if I don’t find any major disappointments, I’d say I got a better than fair deal… keeping my fingers crossed…

That's why I want to get it moving with Kroil and brass before using more Kroil and a steel drift. And use brass to drive it back in flush.

I said the same thing to @GAJoe when he first got his C-160… I think he had an axle seal leaking and seemed a little apprehensive about replacing the seal. I quickly told him that he’d better sale to me. Next thing you know @ebinmaine , and others was telling him how sought after the C-160’s are and he’s rebuilding the transmission… lol. @GAJoe knew how much I wanted one… was trying to sweet talk him out of his… I guess he felt sorry for me and found me this one before @ebinmaine drove down and scarfed it up !

Probably snow.

I’m with @wallfish, try to work a twofer deal. If it runs, see if you can steal it for $200, it’s probably worth twice that anyway, but that deck looks a little sketchy from the pics. Maybe you can use that as a bargaining chip, IDK.

Yesterday it was 46° and I was filling potholes in the driveway. Barely had any snow that needed attention. Long range forecast shows us in the 30s during the day for the most part. February is looking similar to January.

Well I'm in the Hartford area, Simsbury, and nary a flake on the ground. Only one minor snowfall last December.

Haven't been about for a few months, but great to see you got the FEL and Backhoe! I bet you get a ton of use out of it. Watching developments and projects with interest as usual. Dan

Funny colored Horses are still Horses!

Folks here's a still picture I got from the video of My Local Paint Department while she was spraying the K341 for me. Excellent color contrast because she had just a dusting of white over the metal and red colors. I chose to lay the engine down and drive those pins right straight through to the interior of the block. The reason I chose to push them straight through instead of trying to remove or break the interior gear is that to me it seemed like it was just easier. If this engine was on a stand and empty and I was going to have it cleaned I probably would have threaded that section and put a couple of pipe plugs in there or maybe even just used freeze plugs and indented the outside of the block with a cold chisel. Kind of like you would do for a camshaft on the old Chevy small blocks. Likely that would hold just fine because those things had oil pressure to push against and these don't.

There are four buildings here with a hard roof. Three of the four have metal roofing. No need for Ice n Water Shield under that. The other one is the shed with the bright red doors where the chickens live. Trina and I have not yet decided what to do with that building but if it goes to heck it will not be saved....

When fixed properly, no doubt some of the best game meat ever. My mother had a recipe my Dad brought from Germany (In German and now long lost) which was the greatest as I recall. Fried in a spiced cream souse. Put many a rabbit in the pan with that, when growing up.

I don't think you want that, you better sell it to me! Excellent looking tractor there!

You can go tubeless, if you do use short TR412 stems.

Yummy Wabbits!

I can see the resemblance, but that’s Uncle Jim!

yup that’s the new plan. The last couple we just put a little heat to them and they popped out.

Absolutely. They are easily removed. Just a bleeping heavy engine to set off the frame to get them.

@SylvanLakeWH, If you noticed, I was reprimanded for using clothesline to tie it down… but I was trying to beat @ebinmaine over to the man’s house. I just grabbed a piece of rope and hit the road… I could swear I seen Eric pulling in as I was leaving…

Tore the transaxle apart I took out of the D200. She wouldn’t have lasted long if she was able to move. She just sat and made noises. Now I see why. The bull gear bolts were loose and one axle side gear was missing some teeth also. I have another transaxle that needs attention but we are way past that point