Leaderboard

Hello everyone. I have recently acquired my late uncle's Raider 10. The tractor is complete along with the mower deck that is removed and stored in a covered building. The deck appears to be 36". The tractor has sat at least for 3 years and I think with a good carb cleaning, fresh fluids, fresh battery, and fresh air in the tires, it should run just fine. Someone in the past has done an amateur respray which can be cleaned up with with some fresh decals, etc. I'm looking forward to getting to know this machine and putting it to use. I've never owned one of these so I have to learn a bit about how the pulley system works when hooking up the mower deck. It also has an electric PTO which I don't know if this is an add on or original. Serial number states 1 0300 G which leads me to believe it is a 1971 model. I'll attach a few pictures. I look forward to getting to know you guys.

I picked this guy up this weekend in Indiana. I haven’t gotten the approval of the previous PO’s so I won’t mention their names at this time out of respect. Pretty much restored unit that has already been registered here on RS. An electric lift has been installed. I don’t think they had those yet in ‘66. But I like it. Lots a brand new OEM parts were added by last PO. It runs like dream. Drives like a dream. I know it’s not an original down to the nut and bolt but it’s pretty damn close. While I appreciate the barn finds as much as the next guy I also like the pretty ones when done right. So purists, take it easy on me I appreciate patina too. Lastly the seat on this guy is one of the last seats Bob Ellison made.

That deck didn’t come with a wheel horse part number. Was fabricated by my dad at a shipyard in Paducah, KY.

And Stuart approves of the light...!!!

Whatta beeyootifull mosheen!! Excellent find Rob. Ya done well.

Thanks, it ain’t perfect but it is a pretty sweet tractor. Runs really strong. Has been rebuilt. I’ll just say this. I paid up for it but don’t feel like I got taken either. Biggest reason I pulled the trigger was because it is so rare.

I removed the wires and cleaned them, and now its good as new. Thanks guys!

953 nut sent me I think with this, you guys, and my good friend that I can do this. We'll see and I'll keep you posted.

That is a gear driven deck so the blades turn in opposite directions. There is a left and right blade - mirror images of each other. The blades must be installed 90 degrees to each other so they don't hit. Deck is likely a model 5-1361 or 5-1362 - 36" width of cut.

I have been wondering about the electric PTO given its age. If you can zoom in on the dash, there is a pull knob labeled "Electric Clutch" which has the same raised lettering as the rest of the dash components. I don't know much about the setup of the PTO system yet. The drive belts for the deck are missing. I will need to source the correct sizes to make it work.

Spent the morning getting my snow equipment ready. Oil changes, new wear bar on the plow & every thing greased up. The rest of the gang got prepped for hibernation. Bring on winter!! I guess....

My dad stayed late after work and painted my plow.I think it is looking good.we are going to let the paint dry and put it together on thanksgiving.

Thanks! It is NOS OEM. Does add a little bling if I do say so myself.

Sparking from the wire connection is an indication of a bad/loose connection. That will also cause extra resistance which could be the cause of the wires getting hot. If the wires are too small, that could be a cause of the wires getting hot. As mentioned, go through all the wire connections to make sure they're clean and have good contact. Ground wire too. Maybe post a pic so we can see what's going on. Sparking and hot wires is a recipe for disaster.

What model are we taking about? But in any case, make sure that your ground from the battery to the starter, (whether through a wire or through the frame), is clean and tight. Make sure that all the other high amperage wires are clean and tight. Sometimes the lugs on the wires come loose.

Remove the wires from the starter, clean the terminals on the wires and starter & reinstall them. Not a bad idea to clean the terminals at the battery as well. If you still get sparks, then I would suspect a bad crimp on the wire terminals.

Do you feel slighted ?… I wouldn’t…

Thanks for that man 👍 if I can’t find any I bet I’ll find one at next years wheel horse show.

I just read through the manual for 1971 and it mentions the electric PTO as an option.

to the The Raiders were one of the great Wheel Horse tractors. I don't have one now, but I have saved quite a few. None of mine had the electric PTO, so I'm guessing that was added by a PO. I see parts of the original side drive deck drive system on the right side. It appears the frame mounted front mule drive system was also added to replace the side drive. This front drive system was used to power the decks before the front attach-a-matic was used.

Welcome Click on the picture in the link for more. Just a guess on the deck

I live 90 miles from Buffalo. Buffalo got about 80 inches of snow Fri-Sat. Here we got nothing. Funny how the wind blows.

Really a 2 weekend project.... installed reduction steering kit on the 520-H along with new boots around the steering rod ends as well as fluid filled the rear tires. I did not have good luck steering in the snow with the tri rib front tires so I took them off and installed 5 ribs. Also got the snow removal fleet ready for winter.

the worm gear is not close enough to the ring gear. There has to be some adjustment somewhere. I never had this problem with any of my blowers. BTW, slather both with plenty of grease.

Looking over the wire diagram. The PTO switch and the brake switch are the only things that interrupts the starting circuit. The seat switch will only kill the engine when the PTO is on. PTO switch in the OFF position = Starting circuit is closed to the brake switch, brake needs to be depressed to finish the circuit to the starter. In this position the other half of the PTO which connects to the seat switch is open and will not effect the engine. PTO switch in the ON position = Starting circuit is open at the PTO switch and the starter will not engage. The other half of the switch is now closed completing the circuit to the seat switch. The seat switch is closed to ground when not occupied. This causes the ignition coil to be grounded out. Sit on the seat and the seat switch opens so that the engine will continue running. To test the unoccupied/PTO ON kill circuit on this tractor - unplug the seat switch, sit on the seat, (safety first) start the tractor & engage the PTO, engine should stay running. If it stays running, inspect the seat switch to make sure that it opens when you sit on the seat. If the seat switch does open when occupied then check to see if the wire is grounded out between the seat switch and the PTO switch. Please repair this circuit properly.

PTO safety switch and the seat safety switch intersect to shut off the ignition if the PTO is engaged without the seat switch engaged. That's what's cutting off the ignition when you engage the PTO. One, the other, or both of those switches is a problem or the wiring for them. Most common problem is the seat switch Go to the files section and download the manual for the tractor for electric circuit wiring. You can start a tractor without sitting in the seat. Is the wiring for the seat switch intact? Is this a new to you tractor or this just started to happen on one you have owned? Many people bypass or try to bypass the seat switch

That is one sweet machine!! Congratulations. 1046 is one that is on my bucket list.

You can usually confirm that the seat switch is working properly by lifting off the seat when the tractor is running and the PTO is engaged. Engine should stop. In your case, the trouble is either a failing seat switch, failing PTO switch, or bad wiring connections. Use the search bar with terms like "tractor" and "gt-1100" (with "use all my search terms" ON) to find the manuals and the wiring diagram that'll help you start tracing and testing. (FYI, there are two PTO switches stacked together--one keeps the engine from starting with the PTO engages and one, along with the seat switch, stops the engine with no operator in the seat and PTO is engaged.) Good luck! Circle back it you need more help.

Click on the picture to see a wiring diagram

the wiring is pretty bad so il try that. Thanks!

Finally received some missing components today and directly installed them. HAD to do a testpiece ofcourse. Pretty pleased with it. Blasting pressure is set at a moderate 4,5bar or 65psi.

Got back to work on the 121, I always have too many things going on at once!! Got the head back on and torqued down and installed some solid motor mounts. Those were not the easiest to do by myself, but I got it done. Had to use some seat springs from a cab cadet and drill two holes to match up to the new seat, but it works and will still adjust! I have two carbs to rebuild too.

Place a classified in the Wanted section. Some guys hoard the weights for their retirement funds. They also hoard RJ's Senior's and 1045's!

I put a Magnum18 in a C175 and had to use an electric PTO, they engage rather abruptly. I found a "soft start" module for the electric PTO and it's a whole lot better! really easy to install too

Just toss it into your neighbor's yard!

I don't mind not getting 77" of snow, seeing I'm only 64" tall. Besides where can you pile up that much snow.

What you are asking is very possibly known and easy to do by just about everyone in this forum. With a little research you can also accomplish that by yourself. However just as everyone here will know how to do it, possibly also , no one will venture on giving you such instructions. Not because they are not willing to help, but because it would be irresponsible for them to do so. All electric components in your tractor are there for a reason many of them for the safety of the user. Not knowing you or who else and for what purpose tractor will be used, not only it would be a liability but it would also weigh very heavy on someone’s mind should something bad happen due to such modifications. It is best to determine what is not working and why, and correct it. For that you will not only find willing participants but most likely also the best and most qualified help that can be found anywhere. Not only you will have the satisfaction of a properly working tractor but also the knowledge gained in the process. I understand that you may be overwhelmed and frustrated with what you have, but with a little time and patience there is a lot to be gained by fixing it correctly.

You're in the right place!!!

Ready for winter!

Picked up a 418-8 yesterday. Needs a lot of TLC. First thing that needs to go is the that ugly yellow seat! The 48" deck sheet metal is beyond repair but has good gator blades and the spindles look decent.

Truthfully I have only run this for about 3yrs, wouldn't want to be with out it. Is a C145 auto. It got chosen as a plow machine due to the hydro tranny & lift. The snow blower tires on the front were one of my better choices/ideas. They perform quite well at making the front end go where you want it to.

Parts... Wiring of the tractor in a nutshell... I will probably pull the machine out and wash it down when the hose isn't frozen... Don

Are you sitting in the seat when this happens? The safety switches are designed to cut off the ignition if the driver falls out of the seat. Seat safety switch

Hi Guys. I'm new to this group and new to Wheel Horse. I just got my first . A 603 older restoration. It has the H60-T5008 which i have ascertained was manufactured on October 7th 1962. I would like to purchase the correct decals for it and pictures of the proper placement of the decals. Any help would be appreciated. thanks

to

This frame mounted spring loaded idler/tensioner system was made by Wheel Horse. It was only used for a short time when they ended the swing arm side drive and before the front attach-a-matic mule drive system was put into use. I have several of these mule drives. There was also available a tombstone shaped pulley guard that bolted to the front that served as a nice bumper. I personally liked the spring loaded idlers as they maintained a constant tension on the drive belt regardless of deck position or belt wear. The 60" decks on the 520s also use a spring loaded mule drive.

You will have to remove and open the transmission, yes. It's a nuts n bolts operation with no special tools. There are a few threads but I'm not the best at searching and our devices may give differing info. Familiarize yourself with the search key at the top of the pages. One thing to remember there is to click on the words below the window while searching. Use the words "AND" or "PHRASE". Your biggest challenge will likely be the wheel hubs. There are threads about removing them as well.

A big shoutout to my buddy @Shynon for selling me a 48” deck and bagger for Momma’s Big 523D. It comes in useful throughout the year when the lawn “gets away on us” but this time of year it is necessary given the amount of trees in our yard. The big diesel handles the mower/blower with ease. I am so thankful for this setup…really nice for leaf retrieval! Winter is coming🥶