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Roadtrippin!! Delivering another Wheel Horse... this one going to Russ @SALTYWRIGHT in Norwalk CT to do duty as a towing rig for a friend of his that lives in Greenwich--there ATV is just too fast even in first gear. Nice Fall day to do it too and Mike @Sparky is tagging along. All 3 of us are going to get lunch at Russ's favorite pizza joint. Happy Saturday Everybody Tony

Successful delivery! Yep, I tagged along Pretty certain that Russ is our oldest member although I’m to lazy to check . After the tractor was unloaded we all went out for a pizza and a good ol’ fashioned shoot the breeze session. It’s been said before but it’s amazing how these tractors have brought people, who other wise would have never met, together. L to R: me, Russ @SALTYWRIGHT and Tony @Docwheelhorse

So I picked this out of a pile of trash at the curb this morning. Right place at the right time I guess. Pretty good shape for its age. Best part is the tires don't need air ! Well that's the second best thing, best thing is it was FREE !!

Hey Everyone. I’m picking this up tomorrow. And starting it as a project with my son. Looking forward to making it a fun project with him. Just want to give @stevebo, he’s a friend and neighbor, a thanks for getting me into this community.

Who needs a trailer!

Thanks, Eric. That steering wheel looks like an accident just waiting to happen. The steering wheel hub on the C81 split and the wheel seperated from the hex insert while my son was plowing with it 3 years ago. I came up with a two-piece split clamp and adapter ring to use an aftermarket wheel - similar to the 420 LSE. No more roll pin to deal with, allows you to set the wheel straight to the front wheels - center spoke up, center spoke down, your choice.. The powder coat finish I applied matches nicely. Been used now for 3 seasons, no slipping out of place, no issues. Best part - you get to choose and buy the wheel of your choice - you could even do the 70's style welded chain Hippie Van version if you had a Rat Rod !!

Hi my name is Alex I’m 11 and my dad @WHGuy413 set me up with my own account.I have 4 tractors of my own I have a 604,commando 8,1077 and a 310-8 that’s in pieces.I enjoy working on my own tractors and I fix up push mowers,leaf blowers,rottitillers and snow blowers and sell them for money to work on my Wheelhorse tractors.

coffee, toasted marshmallows and some good tunes…….

Flat spot right at the top. They could've piled more. Very disappointing. Slackers.

Awesome Tony! Try to get a picture with y’all three!

Picked up me a fire pit. Same as this one but without the fire

I have my '57 Chevy set up with a Muncie 4 speed shifted by a Hurst 3 speed shifter for the forward gears and a second lever for reverse. Truly, 'R' for race on this one.

Latest updates....hood....rear fender....hood hinge....

Tierod that is, replaced with 7/16- 20 rod end from McMaster- carr. Made 7" 5/8 rod, drilled and taped.

Nah that’s just the difference between a Ford and a Chevy. That ought to rub some raw. 😂

Got dressed up and married Todd and Kristina… but they didn’t marry me!

Worked on the neighbors “she shed” a little more today… Got the other half of the roof sheathing up and the synthetic underlayment down. Got one wall sheathed… Now that we’ve started the sheathing on the walls we can remove more bracing… she’s getting stiffer with each piece of sheathing nailed on… You can see in the last pic how the bottom plate runs out lower at the bottom of the wall. That’s because the floor is unlevel and we had to allow for that when we framed it so MOST OF the building will finish out square and plumb. I would have put an overhang on the front and back, but there is not enough room between the two buildings.

I went with heims joints in 1989 when I got tired of hammering them back together. I used heims joints that are brass lined, they are still tight. I have bushed the clutch rod, Pto rod and rebuilt the axle povit on mt C-120. I drilled out the clutch, and PTo to 5/8" and added bushings. the axle povit I made an over size pin and added more metal to the front hitch.

Ever add Seafoam a bit at a time directly into the intake with the engine running?? Looks like @Pullstart doing a burnout, but without the tire smoke smell !! Lots of white smoke, but it works.

If I was ridiculous rich I'd buy a 60s Mack with a twin stick and bring it there. ... just to watch the reaction...

I bought a 702 many moons ago and I bought this cultivator from the same person thinking it was for a slot hitch . I finally pulled it out of the shed to redo it and noticed the hitch was to small for a slot hitch. I looked in the manual section and found it is a 55-60 AC-6 for a Walk Behind and a Ride Away Senior , I think I found the right manual . Thought everyone would like to see it !! Do not really want to use it in the dirt, so if someone needs it for their tractors listed, I would trade for a WH attachment. Obviously , the wheels are wrong.

I feel full.... of wonderful vittles.

Yessir. This is my 4th (?) wedding. Two siblings in-laws, a friend couple and this one. One of which was a destination wedding in Mexico.

Agreed, by rear grader blade has its own light, double duty as reversing lights

On this, what will be @Snoopy11's 4,000th post... I thought it would be nice to break out the herd and photoshoot. I never imagined I would have 6 machines rolling out of the shop... Don

@Lman. We put in tubes in ALL our new or remounted tires now.

Put them where they work with all uses / implements.

Inner tubes work. I would not reuse valves. I have Discount tire do my new tires. Cheap, easy, they dispose of tires...

They're up there for DOT compliance. Don't be apprehensive about putting the lights where they WORK. Having them look cool on the tractor doesn't help you see where you're going.

Check the condition of the 30A fuse holder. I have found them partially corroded away.

One other suggestion... run a ground wire from battery negative to regulator bolt or metal body of regulator and see if that makes a difference in charging values. Don

Next will be front bearing, assembly block bushings, axle pivot, shims or bushings. That's a winter project. Thanks for all feedback.

Excellent work! I bought a set of new replacement stock type a few years ago. They lasted about 2 seasons on our rough terrain and started to loosen up. Now when we replace tie rods they all get heim joints.

Amazing how much difference what a small thing can make. Very nice job on those links! I used tri ribs with similar heim joints, and even with 110lbs of suitcase weights, I can steer my Bronco "Cadillac style" with one hand!

This “mount” lasted from August to March!

You should have, you've been here long enough. LoL 😂

Was recently looking to purchase a Kia sitting idle for 8 years, the car belongs to the Grandmother but Granddaughter is handling the sale. She lives a couple of Provinces over, agreed on price then when I told her that I would deposit the funds in escrow with a local lawyer then when he received signed transfer and keys he would then mail her a check to cover the purchase. Lawyer wanted $100.00 which I thought was a reasonable fee for good insurance. That's when things turned nasty, for the next couple of days she and her friends text bombed me with rubbish, was so bad I disabled the texting feature on my voip number. Instead I purchased a rust free 03 Jetta TDI coupled to a five speed manual, all that restaurant waste oil just waiting to be used as fuel.

We go to a casino about 30 minutes away for dinner, or live entertainment on occasion. I hate gambling but I’ll blow a few hundred on a tractor no problem! Anyway, they have complimentary valet. I haven’t got the nerve to bring Norman through and toss some young kid my keys!

Just got in from mowing, this thing steers like it's on ball bearings, the old tierods were all rusted stiff. Now I'll have to fix the rest of the steering assembly.

Since I got the tractor running again I wanted to mount the battery properly. The previous owner had it strapped down with tie-raps/cable binders which was not up to my specs. I wanted something quick and dirty so a little welding and a few purchased items made up the new battery tray. Purists look away please

Glad to have you with us. You will gain a lot of knowledge here and we look forward to watching your projects.

No pics. Ate it too fast.

Takin' shape and lookin' great! Yeah he are. AWESOME Richie. We had a fiya 🔥 today too. My parents stopped by for a visit and stare at the new building. Had a great meal thanks to the BBT.

Are you ordained ?

Just two things to remember when using heat: think about conduction and where the heat you apply in one place is gonna travel (and what effect that extra heat might have), AND that a hot part looks the same as it did cold DO NOT TOUCH!

Does that tractor have an amp meter or a volt meter? Amp meters can cause fuses to blow when they go bad. If your tractor has an amp meter, you can disconnect the wires on it and directly connect them together, taking the meter out of the circuit as a test.

Fixed it by drilling out the plug hole and machining a bushing which I had welded in. Starts right up and have not had a problem after mowing all summer

Limiting switches to stop the rotation before mechanical ends is a good idea! I never used or needed them on mine and never had a problem. The worm gear can slip if you accidentally go past the teeth on the chute if it's set up right. The chute pushes over because it shouldn't be pinched super tight against the blower housing or retainers or it will be more difficult to rotate to begin with. That semi loose fit of the chute on the blower housing gives the safety factor for over runs and allows easier rotation. There's plenty of adjustment there to achieve this and keeps it pretty simple as far as wiring in and adding limit switches goes. The chute only needs to move away from the worm gear to disengage it the same distance as the depth of the worm gear groove to allow it to slip. 1/8" maybe? The chute rotates fine with that space tolerance and without jumping teeth during normal rotation, or at least mine had no issues. Another way to avoid limit switches is to use flimsy pins for the motor to worm gear shaft connections that will give before there's a binding problem. ( Small copper wire strand will break before binding but sizing it correctly will take some trial and error.) Using a power window motor will probably just stop the motor I've since changed over to direct drive sprockets and a chain so the chute can rotate 360 deg. In my situation that saves a lot of repositioning the tractor and it can shoot snow right over the cab backwards. Not advised to do that without having a safety glass front window cab or a good dental plan. ( It has an aluminum sprocket added on the chute base but grinding/filing in additional teeth the same size all the way around the chute base will also work for a chain or the worm gear. The existing teeth will fit perfectly into a #35 chain . They sell that same motor linked earlier with a 35 sprocket already on it )

Then I built this, but kept the heavy wire!