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One of my bucket list items hit last week - was warned they were going to stop giving me vacation credits (FTO) as I was capping. Old timer - company lifer at 34 years - so that's a high number of hours. Felt good. This will give me 2 weeks in December to dedicate to the ratty 520H in the shed. The 48" deck from it is restored and in operation on the 516H. I'm longing to hear that P220 snort and that panel of gauges come alive. The rear was already tested with the 516 PTO belt and it marked-up the driveway. By Christmas, the whole machine will be in pieces. Glory! Happy Saturday y'all!

2023 Base model Can-Am Outlander 850 . Let the mods begin ! First up , Power-Madd handguards Stage 3 Elka Shocks New aluminum wheels wrapped in Kenda Bearclaw HTR radials Twin-Air air filter Then , who knows !

Put a donor transmission on the 1045, at least now it's not a boat anchor.

Probably neither solenoid is bad. Chances are you have battery cable end that is not up to par and when a load is applied it heats up the corrosion causing high resistance. Follow this step by step process and you will find the culprit. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad

My 1982 C-195

This pic was in our local paper the other day. I just love the girl with her head down, probably texting. Go figure. My caption would be as she writes her text. "yeah I am at the game, these $200 seats are just the best, I can see every text on my phone!"

Well all I did was start it up and drive it up and down the street. I still can't believe how nice it runs and drives given its history.

One never forgets their first. I've had her since I was eleven and twenty-seven years later, still my favorite.

Right now it is one of these three. They are all in original paint with lynmore' s liked finish suggestions. I got all of them for a good price for condition and did not haggle with the seller . The black hood is not really the hood that belongs in the c 160 to the left, but I just set it there while straightening up the garage and shop after getting the load of winter fuel pellets. The seat on the other C 160A is not correct, ( from a 520) but the one that came on it has the armrests and it really needs upholstery.. The 314 8 is really the same as a 416 setup because the front wheels are the same size as that tractor. Only 1200 for the three and all had decks. I have plenty of others, but these have plenty of power for those few weeks in the spring and fall when the grass gets thick and must be dealt with in between rain events I set them out by the bean field of dreams so they could pretend to be big boys waiting for the harvest ☺️

That's an official sign you got old when your innerweb searching "cookie cutters" on a Friday night!

It is a 10w30 weight oil and has a great additive package designed to take the shearing in hydros and hydraulic systems. The forces are much greater in hydros than in a engine shearing. Looking at when the wheel horses were manufactured. 10w30 motor oil was an oil that worked and was cheap. Special hydro oils were coming but expensive. The synthetics transfer heat better, but at a cost. Full synthetic hydro oils require a king's ransom. About double of the TSC stuff. 105$ for 5 gallon of this stuff, but don't forget you have to sponsor their race cars! I have seen the two oils mixed with no issues. But I am sure why you would want to mix them?? Synthetics in internal combustion engines yes. Our WH hydros......really they ran great for years on good old 10w30. Oil selection sometimes becomes just a piece of mind. Some find comfort in brands and that is okay. I am more of a spec and test guy. I found during the years of my work, need to read the spec sheets, and look at the history of operation if possible. What ever you use, keep it clean and the moisture out. And never use the brand of oil called "lack of!"

Who was it that said "Love the one you're with" . She's 54 years old (41 of which she spent with me) , and still beautiful.

Agreed. My favorite is in this pic. No, not that one- the other one! Or maybe that other one...

My late father’s ‘78 C-161. Still looks and runs almost as nice as the day he bought it. It mowed grass on hilly terrain and pushed snow for 40 years. As you can see, he was pretty particular with his stuff. A trait, much to my families dismay, that I picked up as well.

Today, my favorite is this 854. Yep, I dig this little guy. Never needs anything and is always ready to go.

Looks like it's gonna need a seat Tom. I know a guy that's got a dandy and same patina to boot.

At the top, go into the store and become a supporter, pretty simple. And we'll appreciate it.

Nice day today after the rain and wind yesterday to check the trails for downed trees and limbs. Plenty of clean up to do now. Decided to give the 420 some fresh air. Nice to see the brook running after the very dry summer.

You can unplug the kill wire from the connector and try starting it making sure it is not grounded if it starts you are looking for a grounded out wire going back to the ignition switch plug

It sounds like the module is gone. You can check the kill wire to make sure it hasn't grounded out, I have lost 2 of them to bad ignition switches. A spark tester is the best way to check it but you can try spraying carb cleaner into the carb,that will pretty much tell you if there is any spark present. They are available both from Kohler and aftermarket I have been able to find oem ones that I didn't have to trade my favorite grandkids for but that's getting harder and harder to do. If you do have to replace it be sure to check the ignition switch for any short circuit as it only takes a millisecond to kill the module and you are out a couple hundred bucks. You can check for voltage at the kill wire both with the ignition on and off

The 702 has the straight vertical spindle front axle with a flat bar tieplate - as Don said, the turning radius is WIDE. The 854 has a cambered axle and 2 tierods - turns much tighter AND comes back to center under its own weight - the 702 kind of stays where you left it.... The frames are different due to the axles and pivot pins are not the same. The 702 has a 2 position implement lift - one position for up, non-adjustable - down "floats". The 1963 and later tractors have an adustable "up" position - really helps with setting a plow to skim on the pavement or grass - down "floats" The rear fenders and underseat tool boxes are similar, but different - interchangable only as assemblies. The choke and throttle cables are different. Steering wheels are different - 3 spoke on the 702, vs a 2 spoke version on the 854. The battery holder on the 702 is a 3 side confinement welded to the frame; the retainer strap has a "Z" shape bend at each end and bolts on. The battery holder on the 854 has the 3 sides and a bottom and has 2 studs to attach to the frame and is removable to ease steering shaft upkeep - the retainer is a flat strap, retained by 2 hexnuts. Some more items - although both models use a Delco-Remy Starter Generator, the one on the 854 is longer, the belt guard is also different from the 702 The 702 uses a 2 prong keyed 2 position ignition switch to turn the coil on or off - there is a second momentary heavy current starter button. The 854 uses a 3 position later style ignition switch that controls the starter solenoid. Bill

Much like @Racinbob I like each one best depending on the task at hand. Right now I am in the midst of dealing with leaf removal so the 418-C with leaf blower is a favorite. But yesterday I spent the day at a local tractor show so the narrow front 953 was my favorite then. Next week I will be running the 42" rear discharge mower and towing a 42" leaf sweeper with the 310-8 tractor of choice. "Hot Wheels" in the background has a new home now but love it too. Snow removal will be coming up in no time, the 1055 has always been a great snow hound. For heavy lifting the GT-14 with FEL always gets the nod. Though the 1055 is great there is a lot to be said for the hydraulic lift and power of the 418-C But we can't leave out the treasured barn fresh 953. Guess I just can't pick a most cherished Wheel Horse.

You say you have 12.5 v power output turning the key. Where are you checking this? If you have say 13.2 at the battery and 12.5 at the key switch for example, that's a pretty good voltage drop. Cables can look good, Test good with an ohm meter and be shot. You can have 100 corroded strands inside a wire and 1 good one and it will test ok. Also is the solenoid itself grounded good? Coil could be only pulling in partial way.

I have a pretty low opinion of Duralast, so in my mind there's no coincidence - it was bad out of the box. Get a refund and buy something of decent quality.

Like Sqounky I been using the Mob in 10-30. Since I am like Sqounky and on a fixed income and got 6 hydros to feed I switched to a cheaper brand syn. except for my main worker 520s that I have mob 1 syn in them. Feedback from the other fellas say syn does a bit better in cold climes. I still wouldn't mix synthetic and regular. I think Richard's suggested fluid is fine too and has a decent 1410 filter and kept clean. And oh yeah that leakage thing is horse hockey too... you got a bad seal if it leaks and like bearings they are designed to wear out.

The crew got us some sliding rolling doors built today. Both fronts are done. The frame for the rear is built.

I used to think that way, and I do love my 520. But there is something to be said so far as "always ready to work" reliability. My 310-8 can sit for weeks, and it always cranks and works like a champ.

Just finished this one this summer. My third one and I think best. Because the other two had modifications done to them by the p/o.

i brought a wheel horse back from the dead. sitting in elements for 5 plus years. replaced everything u would suspect would be bad for being idle outside for years. Got it running. impressed but not surprised. i sharpened blades and everything spun freely. Unfortunately deck is way to loud and deck belt shakes alot more than a 312-8 i have with similar 36in RD deck. any thoughts? assuming a spindle is worn out. i pulled inspection cover and noticed no zerk fitting. how do u lube? deck is surprisingly in excellent condition.zero rust. so weird! Lastly there is no grey area to clutch. everytime i come off pedal im pulling front wheels! Is this an adjustment? hoping both are easy fixes. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I can't believe what this C-81 is capable of. Friday morning my wife informed me she didn't go around the barn to feed the chickens because she could hear a bear or something back there. It was dark and her flash light wasn't good. She went to work, so when it got light I went to feed them. Well this boulder was the bear, all the rain must have loosened up the bank and this bad boy fell out. My L-3010 Kubota couldn't fit in there so I fired up the C. I got it in the bucket but so heavy even with two hundred pounds of counter weight and my two hundred pounds, the back tires were off the ground. I put some down pressure on the bucket and was able to drag it out enough too get the bucket behind it and drag it out where I could get it with the3010. I picked the C-81 up last year and just tuned it up and changed the fluids, runs like a top. Gets me into tight places and just gets it done. I bought it for a worker and that's an understatement.

That's total bull5h1t which I would not accept. I'd be going to corporate.

I would purchase a simple spark tester, they are cheap. This will tell you for sure if you have spark. I know this might sound stupid but it’s nice out of gas is it? A gentleman posted here last week going crazy trying to find out why his tractor wouldn’t start after he walked away from it while it was running. He came back and it was not running. Yup turns out it ran out of gas after he walked to his barn! I think it’s happened to the best of us!

Seat switch kills spark on a lot of models.

Go with the tiller. When I bought my first WH in 1978 I bought a Brinley moldboard plow and a disc harrow. The plow was great, albeit slow. If the soil was sandy the disc harrow was adequate but it did not weigh enough and was too small. I tolerated it until my garden shrank in size to where it could be turned with a pitch fork. Then I got old and in 2014 I bought a WH tiller. Other than a bit of a challenge mounting it on the tractor (first time took me 45 minutes, but after that I could get it on in 10 minutes or less), it did an unbelievable job on tilling the soil. Leaves, compost, grass clippings handled all of them with ease. I had the best garden in the neighborhood. By the way, when you are buying a used tiller, the blades should not look like shark teeth. That tiller is worn out. Tiller blades are supposed to be square on the end.

Yes, but just larger air cleaner. The engines are physically the same dimensions

Decal city. No adjusting and that’s that!

This has been bugging me. If you look up Delco generator pulley nuts E bay lists them as 17MM X1.25 so I went out with my thread gauge. The shaft measures.65" or 21/32" . 65 is 16.6MM. My eyes aren't the best but to me 20 threads US and 1.25 metric fit better than US 24. Gen shaft is out of a 702

Same stuff I use in my HY pumps with no issues. A little too expensive to have to fill hydros but less than a gallon for HY -2s & 953 lifts. HY pumps originally used a atf red fluid but since I cleaned & rebuilt them and was starting from dry I didn't have to worry about mixing them.

I'm successfully treating the WH virus through marriage. I actually feel that 4 is enough. Two to restore - maybe that's the real reason. Was just lucky to get that 520 with the 48 - two birds/one stone.

The deck spindles usually had Zetks or I have seen Allen plugs in their place. Clean the top of the spindles and look if there are plugs, or threads, or the rusted/broken off remains grease zeros. The spindles may be ok and the bearings just need grease or bearings need replacement. Maybe that’s why they parked it. There is a procedure to adjust the clutch in the manual. Do a search in the Manuals Section for your model tractor. Also check your clutch spring. Is it possibly stretched out?

picked this up after work tonight now the work begins got to polish theses pontoons out and get as much of it cleaned up before it gets too cold out then stick it in storage for winter and be all done ready to get on the lake in the spring

Watched my wife make cookies for plow day. Any one ever see a cookie cutter? I thought I heard them talked about once here? Or I saw one on fleabay or something?

Universal Dynamic Tractor Oil is a dual purpose hydraulic and transmission lubricating oil. I have been using the Tractor Supply UDT in Eaton and Sundstrand hydros with good results. If you buy the 5 Gallon it is $ 2.75 a Qt.

Up here In the hills .

A moment of silence for 1979…as I recall it was a good year…

@WHX?? May the curse of shingles miss you in your retirement. If you ever had chicken pox , get a shingles shot.

Sadly- Kohler, Briggs, and nearly every "domestic" brand now has the majority of parts supplied from overseas. Sure they might be assembled here, but are not manufactured here. Same is true for much of what is in most folks driveways, even if the company is American. So my short answer is this: nowadays, no matter what brand engine you use really matters, unless it's 25-30 years old. If I'm in a pinch, I'd rather repower an old tractor and get use out of it than let it rot in the shed. But that is just me...

@The Freightliner Guyslow down a bit. Do not be so concerned about some stuck nuts to the point where you want to give up. Second.... If swapping out engines is an option for you, then get what you can afford. Look on CL, FB Market Place for an affordable option. I put a Predator engine in a Lambert project I did and was VERY happy with it. 99 bucks, brand new, shipped to my house. Also by going with that engine I eliminated getting new fuel tank, fuel lines, etc. With your project I would start with things like repairing the steering. Tires and or tubes for tires. Get it to be a decent roller then address the engine. Having a running engine isn't going to help you if it won't steer and roll. I have never owned an RJ so I'm not familiar with how big or small of an engine you could use. If I did I would just ask these guys here and they will give you options. Don't give up.... takes time. That Lambert project I did the tranny was rusted solid. Soak , soak , soak. Every night for weeks I was out there soaking it, then it finally broke free. Time and effort, you will get it done. Here was the Lambert. Sat outside for many years. Every nut and bolt rusted solid. Got it to a nice roller with new tires, new tie rod, unsiezed the transmission. THEN.... I addressed the engine by selecting the Predator.

Is therer a door above in the back with a beam above to lift in large equipment. You might need more Wheel Horse storage if you keep buying like you have been.

C-120/180