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A disc harrow will break the soil up finer after plowing. I like to follow the disc with a drag harrow to get a real nice smooth finish. If your tiller is set up right it should be a one & done deal. No plowing, no discing, no drag needed. Just a nice smooth loose finish after one pass.

I'm far from convinced you even have a problem. It's common for the gears not to mesh up without a little help in all the gears not just 1st. The gears are flat sided and must be aligned to go in place. Every one of mine needs a little bit of help at times. It becomes second nature and you don't even realize it. All my new to me transmissions get opened up for inspection when I first get them. Drain it first making sure you raise the front up to drain what is in front of the case hump. Most guys use kerosene or diesel fuel and that works great. I spent a bit to get a couple quarts of stuff called Motor Flush bottled by Gunk. Everyone I've done has been almost spotless after doing this but maybe they weren't too bad to start with. Also, I hate the smell of diesel fuel. Drive easy for a spell and drain it again. Be careful what you drive over. It's likely the thin fluid will leak out. While it's apart I'll remove all the seals. It doesn't need to be open for that but it's just easier. I'll put things back together before I install new seals. Add your preferred gear lube, 1 1/2 qt in 3 and 4 speeds, 2 qt in 6 and 8 speeds. Then start driving it after you make sure the belt guard in in place and the tabs (if any) are adjusted properly. I'm thinking you'll find that you really don't have a problem.

The value of a Wheel Horse is the agreed upon price between the buyer and seller. That price will have accounted for the local market, condition of the machine, any attachments, running/not running, and preceived value to both the buyer and seller. In short, if you are happy with the machine you bought or sold, and the price, then you got a good deal.

I understand his reluctance to ship. Unless you have an abundant supply of boxes, packing material, and the desire to go to the post office every day, shipping can be a pain. I have a bunch of stuff that I'd sell if shipping were cheaper. An 8-speed transmission is worth about $150.00, but shipping it makes it unreasonable. I guess he figures that bringing all his wares to the big show once a year is enough. If you want to come pick something up, that's okay with him.

Agreed. My favorite is in this pic. No, not that one- the other one! Or maybe that other one...

Just found a photo' of it making friends with The Black Horse.

Trim on the shed roofs today. Trina painted the front of that to match the top this evening. Also built the front wall. One window on each side. Solid wall in the center. After they're done we'll turn that solid wall into a door/doors(?). The back will be all windows with no solid wall in the center.

When ever I'm over to Jim's, I like to dig through his connector bin & throw away any Scotch locks that I find.

Delphi Packard 56 terminals will make a superior connection and are worth the extra expense on anything you plan to keep. They also fit into the terminal blocks used

Agreed. That's how I build all my own harnesses too. Nice to see somebody doing it right. I hear @WHX?? Has a good quality love-hate relationship with Scotchlocs.

There’s a fair amount of older stuff out there that has this. The big problem with these was usually water and elements penetration at the crimp. With the sealed shrink wrap and the connector packed with di-electric grease, that should no longer be an issue.

it was time. Been here forever and a day. I apologize for the delay.

Builder dude told me yesterday they're shooting to be done BEFORE the end of October!! That's a pleasant surprise .. I thought we were aiming for more like third or fourth week of November.

My dad bought me a push mower when I was about 12 years old- so I could start making my own money. Best life lesson I ever got. Close second life lesson? He used to say "use it all you want with no gas, but don't let me catch you using it with no oil". To this day, I still have a look at the dipstick on all my tractors before cranking. I just wish I had brains enough to go over the rest (gas, battery charged, etc) each time. I'd get way more done every day!

Well people we got stairs!! The BBT and I had to go up and get view pics. Here's the best. Out the back. There will be 15 feet wide of windows of the 18 total. This is out the front. One 60" window on each side with a 4 or 5 foot solid wall in between. That wall will be opened up to a door AFTER the code inspection is passed. Out the front off to the left. Rail for the front door and the (3) 6 x 6 PT upper support posts are new today as well.

These are radio flyer hot rods

Brought these home Monday... Like new. Brought this home Tuesday, my first twin Kohler !!! Snowblower, another set of wheel weights, chains, Trac Vac, & caution lights... I was lucky enough to get the series II Kohler 17 with fuel injection.... Also came with one Maypop tire, I would like to find one for the other side to match but I think they went out of business, if anyone has a line on a good used Maypop let me know... Now for today, the ever elusive C-111 Mustang II edition, with equally rare low rpm backwards rotating 36" rd deck, Lol. My first Tecky!!!... & another snowblower.

On Thursday October 6, 2022 Kevin, a long time wheel horse fan getting back into horses, was killed in an automobile accident in North Dakota. Kevin was beginning a small collection of horses to provide community service to the town of St. Marie Montana by mowing overgrown areas and keeping the abandoned properties cleaned up. He did all of this to help the town and try to drive more people into the town. His work was greatly appreciated by most of the residents of this small community. Kevin was not a member of RedSquare, and most, if not all of you never knew him, but he was special to me. Rest in peace Kevin Lyon (1969-2022)

Picked these parts up the other day....

The widow of a friend and fellow club member who passed away recently, phoned me tonight to ask if I knew anyone who would be interested in his Wheel Horse and trailer. So in the morning they are going to be introduced to their new owner to be. ME! With no objections from SWMBO. Bit of rearranging to do in the workshop to make space for the tractor before they're brought home in a couple of days or so. To be continued.

Coming along! Harbor Freight, Bauer Heat Gun & Wirefly 4:1, sealant lined, shrink wrap. Nice and clean.

I have no idea what it is, figured I would throw a model in the title and get some good answers

When we were living in Ky. we had a garden big enough that I used an 8N with a single bottom plow followed up with a cultivator, followed with a Tory Built Pony. A couple years, I just used the cultivator, then followed with the Tory Built. The soil was heavy red almost clay. Every fall of the 9 years we lived there, I'd turn leaves and mulch into the soil. Looked more like proper garden dirt by the time we moved.

Not sure if i mentioned being gifted a brush cutter by our local council for our community project. It needed a good clean and service and it runs just fine now. But the clutch was stuck on so would not allow the blade to stop on tick over. That also meant the strimmer head would unscrew itself when the engine was stopped. So, a new clutch assembly and drum were fitted this afternoon and it now runs exactly as it should. Also had some good news on my application for funding to buy a new flail mower for the community project, a donor has given us £3440 to start the fund off. Another few grants and we will be buying something shiny.

AT least I not the driver who says "I know where it is" and gets lost for the second time looking for the same BBQ joint . Right now I am in pain breathing.

Waldo is in pain every time he laughs shingles or no shingles! You should ride with us to dinner at the show. Almost have to call 911!

I have overpaid and under payed on many of my horses. Way overpaid 900 for a 520 that had a bad Onan. Paid 500 for a 520 that had a bad axle but great motor. That one came with a deck and plow. I sold for them for 575 so made 75 and a good motor for transplant in the overpaid 520. I would like to go look at every horse I see for sale but distance = burned gas at $$$ gallon. So now it has to be a collector model or a round hood. Collector model for me is anything less tha 1969. Any kind of blue book for horses can get thrown out the window and replaced with knowledge of the particular model you are going to look at for the reasons the other guys mentioned.

A lot depends on the dirt. Before we went to raised bed garden we had a Troy Bilt tiller that really did a nice job. The ground took a lot of work at first but after the first year it was easy peasy.

Actually you need this style for those ends. https://www.amazon.com/TUBTAP-Crimping-Connectors-0-5-1-5mm²-Terminal/dp/B09GYFKT6F One of these will do the trick as well. https://www.google.com/search?q=blue+point+wire+crimpers&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS821US821&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiP17vZqtv6AhXLrmoFHYuFAG4Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1#imgrc=uN7M3By97P-FQM I have this style if you need to borrow them.

Most of it depends on where you live. A WH is worth more to someone in Florida as opposed to someone in Pa. A few models are worth more Seniors, RJ's 854's 701. Then it just depends on the shape it's in and running or not. My general rule of thumb is if I'm selling a tractor, A running tractor with a deck you can mow with is worth $695 minimum.

It's all about opinion and location. Here in New England prices tend higher than the Midwest for the most part. Also, me personally... I'd rather have a C141 than a B100 or an 854. I'm not into collecting just to make a set of something. The C 141 is the better worker. Desirable to the masses?? Likely the 854 of those listed 3. For what it's worth... I wouldn't trust the prices in a "blue book" for the length of the page. Waaaaaay too much variability in the market. The ONLY correct price is the one that makes the buyer AND seller happy.

Went to Carlisle this morning for a new battery for SWMBO's little camper. I then called in to see the tractor and trailer my late friends widow was selling. I say was. They're now mine. Bought and paid for. Collect at the weekend. Back home and made room in the workshop for the tractor.

Boy does it ever! The builder normally figures four to six weeks in an average year with average help and they've been running on the strong side of that. Coupled with delayed availability of product and the fact that this is a slightly larger building than normal I was figuring eight solid weeks for sure. Looks like it's going to be more like 5. The weather and ordering times have been very much in our favor so far.

I've also observed that you cannot rely excessively on engine braking with either stick or hydro. When the engine is "pulling" the transmission, the drive belt is tight on its direct path from engine to transmission and it pulls well. Having the trans "pulling" the engine, however, tensions the belt on the OTHER side. The tension will move the clutch idler (or the tensioner on hydros) which slackens the belt, which then can slip on the engine pulley! There is some help by pulling up on the clutch pedal but I don't rely on it.

You're a good friend Dan.

Things like that I guess most of us have run into it one time or another over the years. I let those kind of occurrences go from a lot of people for a lot of years but not anymore... I firmly believe that one of the most important moral gauges society lacks nowadays is accountability. I don't by a long shot go around ratting people out. What other folks do or not is their own decision. When I screw something up I'll tell ya. Folks try to put their troubles on me or blame me for something I didn't do or cause they get corrected kindly and quickly.

They tend to be pricey. I've thought that a perforated stainless steel steam pan might be good inexpensive raw material to form around a piece of well casing or drainage pipe, but haven't tried it yet.

Your name looks great in red by the way Matt!

I like the one on the right best.

I think that the previous owner would likely want his machine to find a home with other horses that are loved and treated well. As Eb said, my condolences and congratulations as well.

Reminds me of my Walbro carburetor tool. Also works for fine tuning Tecumseh's

Is the steering wheel on the left or the right?? Sorry Norm, I think a lot of that is going to be happening in the near future. It is happening to me also.

I went and picked this one up today and some wheel weights! I'm not to sure of the weight of them. They are heavier than normal. Any info on them would be great. But I got a good use for them. Got a project I'm about to start!

I was looking at the 35s and noticed they all pretty much had flat frames and straight axels...

I would never look at some website to tell me value of tractors. You want values... ask Wheel Horse nuts in your surrounding area. Here in Indiana... prices are generally pretty reasonable... because there are a good amount of Wheel Horses sitting around that people want to get out of their way. I would think Ohio would be no different... but I could be wrong. I only own 1 Wheel Horse that ran when I bought it... all of the others were basket cases. I paid nothing for my 416-8, 100$ for my 800 Special. My WH zero turn was MUCH more... My opinion... buy what YOU want... and pay what YOU want. If a seller wants more than you are willing to pay... you are probably overpaying. I have seen some tractors that aren't worth 2-3 hundred dollars selling for crazy money... then I see tractors that are in pretty good shape selling for 400$. Some people feel that certain models of Wheel Horses are worth crazy money. That may be correct for them in their area but not for me in my area. Again, it all depends on how much YOU want the machine. Some machines that are in good shape have sentimental value to some sellers, so they will charge you more for those machines... and they are generally taken care of pretty well. Restored models probably sell for double what unrestored models sell. You don't want to know how much I would have to sell my 800 special, 418-8, and L-157 for... but that is because of the time, money, and know-how I have put into them... Every machine is different... but I am very unlikely to pay over $500 for a Wheel Horse in my area (I only paid over that for my zero turn because it is a pretty special machine to me). Just a beagle's 2 cents... Don

If you have rocky soil the disc will probably just skip along on the surface. Can't beat a TroyBilt Horse Tiller...Much easier to maneuver in a confined garden. Discs have a turning radius issue

My opinion only, take with whatever relevance you think counts. I've known more than one person who's been injured mowing on a hill. 1. Wheel Horse tractors have pathetic brakes, pulling a load or not. Trying to stop downhill can kill you. 2. If the amount of side "lean" feels any bit uncomfortable, you've likely already exceeded the level of safety. 3. Now that I've stepped off the safety podium... splash lube engines can be starved for oil (and likely are more often than we think) with very little tilt. It takes several minutes with no lube to destroy an engine, but damage begins to occur in seconds. Repeatedly using one in a tilted orientation will radically shorten the life of the engine, even when it seems fine. I don't know what the limits are with any older engines. Newer engines with specially designed sumps and full pressure lubrication can sometimes tolerate 35 degrees and maintain oil pressure. I have no idea what machine can operate on such a hill. I personally wouldn't work a splash lube engine past 10 degrees. I'm not even sure that would be safe for some engines.

You most likely have a switch that has an "M" terminal on it. This is for a magneto ignition that grounds out the coil to kill the engine. If you have a magneto ignition and the switch is configured wrong, it may send power to the coil and destroy it. If you have an automotive style coil on the tractor, you will need a switch with an "I" terminal. This is for a battery ignition coil that sends positive power to the coil to run. Again you need to pat attention to how the terminals are configured. If the new switch is configured differently than the old one, you can move the terminals on the plug to make it work. A tractor that is newer than 1968 will have an Indak switch from the factory. Very common key used on tractors. If it is older that 1968 it will have a Cole Hersey key, not as common but still available. If your tractor is older with a starter/generator then you will need to use a Cole Hersey switch that has a 60amp starting circuit or add a starter relay.

Just finished this one this summer. My third one and I think best. Because the other two had modifications done to them by the p/o.