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My RM-366 deck had a lot of vibration and noise. Last week I found that one of the face gears was not turning evenly against the spur gear around its full revolution. The face-to-spur variation was over ⅛"--not conducive to smooth gear meshing! At first I though it was the gear itself, but after tearing it down today the gear measures good and the bore is true. Hmmm. @ri702bill suggested checking for a bent cross shaft. It woulda taken me a while to get there but that was it--there's no runout where it goes through the flange bearing support (dark band at green arrow) but it bends at the red arrow. Thankfully the parts pile has a straight one which got cleaned up, primed, and painted today. Reassembly tomorrow, the grass awaits! Also finally got the last of the prep done on the 854 hood I picked up at the Big Show and painted it. I'll let this one cure for a week before putting it on. Gotta look good for @stevebo's M&G.

Sorry to see you got hurt Norm. What happened?? You weren't watching Pullstart videos...were you???

Done

I got some seat time with the repowered RJ project I'd been working on, and this thing is a blast to use when mowing. Went with a secondhand Predator 212 as the engine it came with was an odd Briggs 4hp. Deck was still in great shape and a few small weld repairs later, I'd taken care of the sides cracking. I tried sickle teeth from TSC but they've chipped more than expected after the first mowing, but I did find some NOS high lift blade tips (Toro 6005) for a reasonable price so they'll be going on before this weekend's mow. Anyone know if WH made a mulching kit for the RMR-32? Saw a reference to MU-35 leaf mulcher but can't find any info. On the to-do list is make belt guards and weld up those extra holes in the hood.

Thank you sir but yard art my A$$ heatingdude...702 custom built for the missus. Paint by @Achto and assembly by me.

Mounted these bad boys on some newly cleaned up and painted wheels and got them installed on the 520-H. This will be my winter snowblower duty WH. I will fluid fill later in the fall and plan on running with no weights or chains on the new driveway. Before: After:

I definitely don't want to give up on it: this has been the best tractor I've had.

It's important to remember that the bolts included in that package should not be used because you don't know the history of them. Also, that used cylinder head will still need to be hand planed. I would absolutely not recommend buying anything at all until disassembly and diagnosis has been completed and agreed upon. I would recommend buying from Lincoln at A to Z if possible which is an approved vendor of Red Square.

Trina and I had a great visit this afternoon/evening with some friends from PA. @Mows4three Dave and his lovely wife Nancy. Wonderful folks. They brought gifts for our new building and Meeha/Mirror. Never ceases to amaze me the connections we make just because of red tractors... Left to right, Trina, me, Nancy, Dave. Dave and I connected a few years ago due to one of us needing some such or another. We hit it off immediately and we text back n forth pretty regular. He ain't right and neither am I. Absolutely wonderful visit. ❤️

Now how many times haven’t you ranted to the “no photo police” and here we haven’t seen a thread started on the Amigo. You know that’s what the “other Brands” section is far. But I’ll give you a break, you have posted some good show pictures lately.

Just need some duct tape...

I adjusted the tapered pin and the bottom plug per the manual and pumped in some new grease. Freds front end is now smooth and tight. Thanks to all.

That's what happens when you drive on the wrong side of the road!

If you need a head, I have one PM if needed

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/how-equalizer-works

Oh… Man… Too… Early… Visuals… Agree @ebinmaine - remarkable site and all because of some little red tractors…

You need a new head for that motor. With a breach in the head, you wont develop much compression, and inturn low power. If you can weld, that may buy you some time, but no guarantee.

I also got tired of @Achto to crap or git off the pot on shooting a 701. Sorry bro but this project is takin up some real estate we need for PD and I need a roller. I used Old 55 in a rattle Dan and I like it. Covers like crap but with small consistent coats shines like...you know. We'll still do the sheet metal out of a gun but for the gals we go out with.... good enough and once we stick it in the dirt it's fisticuffs anyone whines. I'll get out a BFH and see how chip resistance it is once it cures. Me thinks this is an underrated paint comparing to the $$ of Van Sickle. I used the same paint in IH off white for the rims and seat on the Amigo and was happy.

Can't say it won't help but can't hurt fellas. I been running JK stacks for years now and never a problem with having to add a support. Worse problem was using BS 1" alloy electrical conduit lock nuts where desired. They melted. Use real steel ones. That and runner like ya stole her.. the carbon and rust will hold it in place. Crap I suppose you want pics... OK but but only this once and since you asked nicely...

been doing a lot of fishing this summer just got back from Saginaw bay Michigan did a 2 day charter walleye fishing . and been wanting to buy another big boat since sold my other one back in 2003 now just have a 14 foot v bottom boat me and the wife go out on the local lake and fish crappie and blue gill with an electric trolling motor . bought this 2003 20 foot pontoon today with a merc four stroke 70 on the back and dealer installing 2023 merc 115 command thrust pro xs out board . boat in great shape an 80 year old couple bought new in 2003 from the same dealer i bought it from and took great care of it . will get more pics when i get it home hopefully next week. dam new pontoons 40 to over 100k to pricey for me i not been doing much tractor work this summer just been mowing with my c145 hydro and it been a beast for mowing the fish pic is me on left had few too many beers guy on left is wife's uncle . this was the second day limit had 1 northern pike and one perch extra caught same amount this first day

My wife’s co-worker asked us if we’d like to purchase a 47 H with a brush hog. It’s her new father in-law’s and it runs and drives. Suggest value? I’ve seen all kinds of sale prices between auctions and private sales and dealers.. I’d really enjoy having a nice brush hog machine. That H sure looks classic!

For a few months now Alex has been saying he would like to find a tub cart like mine. Well one came up for sale about an hour from us and he parted with some of his hard earned cash and bought it. It’s solid with no holes the end is has a dent but we can figure that out. It’s been repainted at some point. He already has plans to repaint it when he does his 604 over. Stopped at harbor freight on our way home. Both boys were drooling. I know some of their stuff isn’t the best but for 2 boys who seem to lose all dads good tools these will be fine for them lol.

I've used the vice grip method myself with success. You have to use a large one to get enough mash on the rivet. The advantage is that you don't have to take anything apart. Bolt & nut is probably best long term.

Some assembly required... Tip fellas... do it on an old car floor mat. Makes spinning the motor on the bench easy.

So, a little more information for any who may be considering this swap. I got the engine and have begun to mock it up and see where any problem areas may be. To my great surprise this thing is about as close to a plug and play as one might ask for lol. I had to remove the original "riser plate" my name for it. I replaced it with three 1/4" x 1 1/4 " x the width of the rails and the stack gives me exactly 3/4" lift for the engine. This got the height right on the money. The bracket to mount the clutch assembly to the engine is almost dead on and bolts to the new engine in the same location with the slightest bit of grinding on the bracket in the bottom center of the bolt locations. This clears a little bit of raised casting on the engine. I have the belt in line and on the pully and it just sits in almost perfect alignment with its own weight and one bolt on the bracket holding it all. I have to finish locating and drilling the mounting holes and I may be up and running. The only thing that needs to be addressed to shut the hood is the air box needs to be replaced with something else. I see some options on the web. Some pictures to show the fitment for any interested parties.

That was before we got Joe. here’s another one, I did this for just me. Never even told the girls about it!

One heads up on removing the head. The bolts near the exhaust outlet can be heat/rust seized. With the fire coming out the bolts in that area may be hard to remove as well. Give all the head bolts a soak with your favorite penetrant several times for a few days. When you try to remove them tighten them slightly before loosening. Once they move given them another shot of penetrant and work them back and forth as you remove them.

Good on ya, Dave!!! Over the yrs I have belonged to some 20 odd forums and this group is hands down THE best of all I been members of....

Dave your name looks really good in red

Thank you brother man. There will be even more stone walls as we progress. There's going to be some kind of a stone structure or wall across from the front doors of the building. The giant wall on the right hand side is going to be rebuilt/reinforced/added to as well. Just messing around one day Trina found two places where you can walk right up those boulders like it's a stairway. Highly likely we will make one or both of those even easier to use.

OF COURSE IT IS !!!

I agree in that - do not buy a new head or ... really anything til you get that off and get us a couple good pics (like the ones youve already made) so it can be determined just what is going on. And as mentioned removal of the head is truly simple, maybe half hour.

Thanks. I have a PDF of the service manual. I looked just now and found the "Cylinder Head Fastener Torque Sequence" figure in there. For K161/181 it says 15-20 ft. lbs. but for K241/K301/K321/K341 it says 25-30 ft. lbs.

Great! I have one of those, fortunately. Will do, thanks for the advice.

Its more for the varnish inside. Its probably going th need some kind of solvent. Thanks for the info on the brush hog @oliver2-44. Interesting I went to a dealer and got a quote on a new Mahindra. I had him option a 6' hog, about $800, but when I told him I would only use it once a year he suggested just come rent one. The areas I would use it is infested with rocks so why not beat up a rental?

Short tongue will sway bad. Equalizer hitch will help but add an adjustable ball mount and a friction sway control.

I would invest in an equalizer hitch ASAP. I towed a 20' dual axle Mobile traveler with equalizer hitch on a F-250 for hundreds of miles up to 65MPH with no issues. One day I towed it 5 mile to the garage to get it inspected and didn't bother to put the equalizer bars on. About 2 mile from the house at 40 MPH it started to sway so bad it nearly rolled the truck before I could stop.

It’s amazing right…these tractors and this website has brought together people that would have never ever met before.

Ask and you shall receive. Side note: that hood looks pretty good in grey, but Im pretty sure Im painting it red.

My first choice, since the paint is already compromised, is to use good old fashioned DOT 3 brake fluid on a rag.

Ouch Norm... I woulda had to invent some new French for that. Looks like you got some serious competition Kev...

Finally installed a knob that I purchased at the big show this summer. Stuck it on the motion control stick.Used a reducer coupling, tap,threaded it through the existing plastic tip. Not sure what type of plastic wheel horse used 🤔but that stuff is unbelievably strong,worked out pretty good I think.

See I was correct. driving in the left hand lane all the time has your left and right all mixed up. Something to do with the space/time continuum.

I'm a fan of a shoulder bolt, flat washer, and nylock nut (with all the original washers and spacers in their original positions). The shoulder keeps the pivoting lever and bracket from getting worn by the sharp threads and the nut lets you adjust the friction to your liking easily.

Great advice EB like you said you don’t know what condition those bolts are or have been in

Definitely add the sway control. That Reese is virtually identical to the Eaz-Lift I used. The top long lever 'turns it on' while the lower bolt adjusts the amount of friction. There's a lot of force on these things which is mainly why I used two of them. They didn't have to be set as tight. I didn't like the mounting screws either. I put another plate on the inside and bolted through. Don't let Pete in on this. You don't want grease on the bar.

When I rebuilt the Ross steering in my 953 old grease in the worm gear and needing adjustment was the major problem. It would not adjust properly because the old grease was so hard.

Just don't park your vehicles under where bats roost.

Got that right Sparkeye... twant for RS Dan and I would have never been tractorin together and had a bromance... Nor would we have refreshed a member's Bronco or had all the fun we had...