Leaderboard

Finally figured out how to get that video from the other day out of the phone and to the PC. Old men and technology don't mix! But here's a short video of the hoe operating. Keep in mind I haven't used this much in the last 5-6 years so I'm a bit rusty on the controls. It goes it pretty quick and smooth once the hand motions are in memory with repeated use. of coarse there were some big rocks in the hole which is common around here. Right after it was built it was used to dig a 4 1/2 ft deep trench about 100 ft long to bury the electric lines to the house. It wasn't super fast because the were stones in there bigger than the bucket but the $3000 the guy wanted to dig it was used to build this instead of paying him.

Everyone eventually realizes a hydro and hydraulic lift is a necessity for a snow machine. Wisdom comes with age.

Got this Lawn Ranger running today. Took it for a nice little ride down the road and back. Looking for a deck for it now.

Bbq is very popular tonight with the local girls. The field next to the house is normally for silage so it's a treat for them to watch the "human zoo" in action.

The difference between a hammer drill and a SDS hammer drill and bits, is night and day. It's worth the cost if you've got a lot to do. Not to mention the ease in doing so.

Ed, I don't know if I'll ever get old enough to refer to my mental dribblings as wisdom but I'm willing to accept "slightly less stupider".

(This was yesterday...) Stripped and painted the 416-8 hood, installed new bezels, ready to apply new decals. Used Regal Red. The fender shell, footrests, and mule had already been painted with the same color but look different now. They're dirty so a wash may help, or I may need to go over them again, plus wax the whole thing. Haven't decided if I want to bother with painting the front axle and other misc. parts. Rear axle was completely repainted while off. This is the tractor I plan to put up for sale very soon. Probably selling with the 42" deck unless the buyer really really wants a 48" (I have 2 working 48" decks also). Will post more pics after the decals are on and it gets a wash-n-wax.

We were in town yesterday running an errand. I was chatting to a guy and noticed a little trailer buried I grass on his lawn, so said it looked like a nice little unit. 2 minutes and £20 later it was mine and on the big trailer heading home! It's road legal, but ideal for the wheelhorses. Just needs a new deck as it was rotten beyond salvation. It even came full of firewood.... The kids just rolled their eyes when I turned up with it, however it's already been put to use moving our giant chest freezer to its new owner on the farm across the field.

Decals on, still have some cleanup to do. Many thanks to @Vinylguy for the awesome decals!

Completed the three tills except for dividers which will get placed according to tools stored in them. Till sides are dovetailed for strength . Tedious precise work on 3/8” thick material . Dovetail layout. First step scribe line on every end marking material thickness Dovetails lay out Completed dovetail layout Cutting dovetails . Mirror used to see kerf in back so as not to go over scribe line Tails cut Chopping waste between dovetails out Marking pins from completed dovetails Saw used to mark pins Marked pins Each two mating pieces have to be clearly marked Cutting pins Mirror used again to watch back kerf Chopping waste between pins Fitting bottoms 3/8 thick pine Bottoms get nailed in. Sapele sides are extremely hard and brittle . Pre-drilling is a must. Panel nails used since they are hardened and ribbed holding much better than a regular nail. A tiny counter sink needs to be done to sink head due to the very hard Sapele. Completed tills

My suggestion would be to take it to a private message. But maybe that's just me...

Now you should send them out to be chromed!!. They would look like vintage drag racing front rims.

I had a Bronco 14 apart and it had a limited slip differential.

Yes

These type of clamps are more like the originals and will make the heat shield easy on - easy off for service. The clamps and bolts don't show on the inside. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255424506711?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1AQWWTr0ISCGjT_4eZ8JLKg2&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=255424506711&targetid=4581046489808871&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640322&mkgroupid=1239149842233245&rlsatarget=pla-4581046489808871&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=f0950c0220241d6849d56ef0350e3c61

But are they the stock width? I seem to remember you had a pulley for a 5/8" belt on the engine and were running a 1/2" belt.You never told us if changing the pulley to the proper width cured it. How bout some pictures of your current kerfuffle? This sounds like the same tractor you were working on before.

Installed the Deestone D407 16X6.50-8 63A3 4 Ply AS A/S All Season Tires!

Most times a little bit of toe in on a garden tractor will yield best handling results. Race cars get toe out and not much gets even up. If you give yourself 1/8” - 3/16” less distance on the front of the yardstick over the rear, you’ll be golden!

Have you ever used deck screws in concrete and brick? I have a Milwaukee SDS hammer drill and drill a 3/16" pilot hole and run # 10 deck screws right in with an impact driver. Works great and costs a whole lot less.

100% agree Randy...Horror Fright has them cheap and should be good enough for homeowner use.

A good drillbit and a hammerdrill should do the trick. Also pictures of said brick would be helpfull aswell as the anchors you're wanting to put into the brick wall.

I have two tractors with 48" blades, both hydrostats,but manual lifts. I think it is getting time for hydraulic lift.

No expert, but I’ve done two Predator swaps with no issues doing exactly what @Pullstart suggests: mount engine exactly where crank and pulley was “stock” and everything lines up… simple measurements and simple to create a mount that does so. Of course, I used same sized pulleys. Change pulley size(s) etc. then time to fabricate as noted…

@Achto I’m using your grease trick. No masking.

The real bad wheel got pretty far last night. I swapped them out to do a little clean out and check my progress. In man vs. machine, it’s good that I can sleep and it keeps working!

@Snoopy11 , morning snoop , think @ebinmaine @8ntruck @HowieE was spot on with experience / insight , personally don't have much trans insight , but the related levers and contacts are what interest me . always amazed to watch someone beat the hell out of anything , that has a very obvious linkage / shifter issue . when i look at a problem , the first thing I see is function , more often than not , there is a bushing , joint , lever movement start point , that is worn out / rust neglected , just very sloppy in its intended function . detail the hell out of what its saposed to do , fresh bushings , firming up starting point / related points , is what I would go for , of course , correct fluid . staying greasy , pete

Probably the way the guard is mounted on the non-stock engine. It's amazing how a story evolves from an 857 with an issue to one where it had modifications. Never get the whole story right off the get go. Belt has line up issues as well.

I just had a look and it pumps out 1.5hp at 1000rpm! The girls and I took it for a test drive yesterday and laid a new concrete pad for our fuel tank (heating). It will mix 1 x 25kg bag of cement and 100kg of ballast without even trying. It could probably do 2 bags and 200kg of ballast but it's 70 years old so no need to try and kill it. I bet your Dad really appreciated the help, that's tough work wheeling concrete around the place! I would be lost without all the help my girls do - they are pretty handy with tools now.

I used JB weld on pitting on Suburban rims. Sanded them in a lathe with sand paper wrapped around a board.

Organized chaos. Momma’s out of town so I don’t sleep much anyway. I’m playing man vs. machine. I gave the machine the super bad wheel. This second one wasn’t terrible. I’m starting to get quite a bit of shiny steel on the inside of the wheel. I checked the e-tank a few minutes ago and I can already flake the beige paint off with the SKIN of my finger. Unreal.

Nice. I have to ask though, how long is that coil wire?

Well, I just couldn’t leave well enough alone. I took the air out of the tube from probably the late 70’s, and saw all the rust buildup. I have to start fresh in the rear! I believe I have 12 days by the way. 11 I guess. We have our Heritage Days Parade and the Senior is scheduled to be representing! At least I can use the tire machine for this size! Funny thing… “wide 5” race car wheels are the same bolt pattern as a Model A!

I love this. The Firestone stamp is awesome! The little dude or whatever the sign is at the end is pretty cool too!

One wheel complete! Tomorrow if the sun’s out, I’ll degrease ‘em, rinse ‘em, dry ‘em, and start with the primer!

In the meantime, I’m giving the chassis a Greasy Pete job with Lucas Red n Tacky! AND wiping the excess

My opinion, they probably removed the coil from the magneto, left points in place. Ran a wire from th negative side of coil to points, hot wire from switch to other side of coil.I think this way it would fire the engine just like the Kohler setup would. You are using the coil you see instead of the magneto coil.

As a favor to a good friend, I've agreed to take a look at a non-running 12.5 hp JD lawn tractor at a non-profit that he supports. Downloaded the tech manuals and read up on diagnostics, etc. to be ready to visit tomorrow and attempt to help. Also looked at the Peerless 5-speed section. Right off the bat, it gets points for a clever design and implementation (using only one driven shaft and one output shaft via constant mesh gears plus an internal chain drive to implement reverse). The gears are not even on bushings, though, let alone bearings, so it'll have a very finite useful life. The thing that struck me the most is that the drive input is via a small bevel gear driving a larger, ring-style bevel. This is clearly designed as a mower propulsion system (plus maybe to pull a lightly loaded cart or sweeper). This is not at all in the same class as a UniDrive.

I'll see what I can do. I'm in the middle of a total tear down of an rj58 to restore.

Yeah that.. kinda got lost in translation. We have 'klop-boormachines' (knocking-drill) and 'hamer-boormachines' (hammer-drill). People like to mix those up unfortunately. @Gregor drilling bricks on a drillpress is no good. The machine lacks the hammer function you desperately need when drilling brick, or concrete for that matter. Also adding water does probably more harm than good. Only with diamond tipped coring-drills (for large holes 1" and up) as @wallfish mentioned water is your friend.

I've been moving snow with a manual lift for three or four years now. First with a 42 blade then with a 48 blade. Lots of folks on this forum kept saying that the hydraulic lift is the bee's knees and the cat's meow so when the opportunity to purchase one came up, I grabbed it. I was able to install a 60" wide @wallfish built plow that has a ½" x 4" skid steer cutting edge on it which is extremely heavy. When I had the narrower blades on I used the solid down pressure bar quite a lot. With the really wide blade I just attached to chain. With the extra weight of the hugemongus cutting edge I never missed down pressure this past winter. You'll be pretty happy with that Hydro lift.

I got the weight part covered, not quite to 1400 lbs though !! I have gotten thru eight inches of wet snow. Anymore than that I may get out the big tractor/loader. I am getting up in years and I may need a hydraulic lift to pick up the blade. 👍👍👍

Well, compared to the transmissions on the L-157 and the 416-8... the Peerless is a complete PITA to get into gear... double clutching... etc. On the other hand... I always physically check with my eyeballs to verify that the belt has stopped BEFORE I put the machine in gear. To me, the extra step of physically LOOKING at the belt is simply precautionary... (I don't want to be opening up transmissions very often..) Overall, I think there are MAJOR differences in these transmissions, as @ebinmaine noted. They feel and act TOTALLY different from one another. I will never use my Peerless transmission for any pulling duties, except to pull my behind down the drag-strip driveway at hellish rpms... The L-157 has the blade on it, so it actually rarely gets used, unless I have grading duties or a tree goes down and I need to push something out of the way. Otherwise, the 416-8 now pulls all the heavy loads around here... large trees, loads of gravel, etc... I guess the bottom line of this thread is... the quality of the 8 speed transmission is unparalleled. You can literally feel the quality and the amount it goes into gear... it is a very hearty transmission. Don

Yes. A smaller pulley = less surface area of the belt gripping the pulley.

At least I did not have to share a room with @squonk Randy desires a metal!

Not sure about the friction being the same. I tried it twice in two different spots and both tires did the same thing.

I don't think a hydro had Limited Slip from the factory after around 1971 or so... It's a fairly easy conversion to do so it's entirely possible somebody changed it over or had it done. Is it possible that when you did that test the friction between both tires was equally enough that they both spun...? On that leaking fitting, Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More could probably answer that and have the parts to help you out.

@CRAZYFROG nice pick up , use that road ride to warm up your trans gear oil , for a more thorough drain / refill . done that for years , always do a road ride , and using every gear , for a distance , before my draining . regularly look at that oil status , drop it every other year , keep shift boot fresh , pete

I have a late model C-175 blackhood with the eaton 1100. The 418-A and 418-C had that transmission too. I put one in my GT14 and my wife’s 1054. Great hydros.

I've used AG tires on the front of the C160 that holds the Mackissic chipper which is VERY heavy. I've tried them both forward (as you have them) and reversed. They DEFINITELY worked better for steering when reversed. The "dig in" is much much better.

The seat flips up on to the steering wheel and then sit on the back of it. I made the controls adjustable so they can be pulled back towards the operator to a comfortable position. It's not that bad as far as comfort goes. It doesn't take very long to dig and move on so you're not on there very long anyway. There were some videos from the Big Show parade of it being demonstrated, I'll post a link if I can find one