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But if you put a 300 lb bear in there, you may only need 10 gallons?

Sealed a tank for the RE-67. Started two days ago. The instructions said patience and don't rush about 30 times. Might do a product evaluation on the brand I used. So far lookin good.

Spent the day on Sat. getting the body work done on the sheet metal. @ebinmaine and @giddyap were asking questions about body filler so I thought that I would share a tutorial on my process. First and foremost, fiberglass and polyester filler should only be applied over solid bare metal with a good mechanical scratch in it. It does not adhere well to paint or primer. Our victim for this is my rear fender pan. To get a good mechanical scratch I use a grinder with 24grit paper on it, Because I had some spots that were welded on the rear pan, I used a fiberglass reinforced filler first. The fiberglass reinforced filler is very strong and works well to seal any pin holes that may be left behind after welding and grinding. If you are not filling in over welds this step is not necessary. After the filler hardens then it is sanded down to smooth it out. We are not looking for a finished product with this filler. It is sanded down with 36 grit paper. After blowing the part off so that it is dust free, a coat of polyester filler is applied. Again I use 36 grit paper to sand this down after it hardens. With this coat I am looking to get every thing as smooth & strait as possible. If I should notice any minor imperfections after I have sanded the filler down then I will add a light coat of a filler called Icing. Icing is a thin very smooth polyester filler used for fine imperfection. Again make sure the part is dust free before applying filler. Once this filler is sanded down to near perfection with 36 grit then I spray a guide coat of contrasting color over the filler. In this case I used a flat black out of a spray can. After the guide coat dries then I use 80 grit paper on a sanding block to sand the filler until the guide coat is gone. After a few swipes with the 80 grit. The pic below shows how the guide coat allows you to easily see the imperfection and 36 grit scratches that need to be sanded out. After the part has been block sanded with 80grit until the guide coat is gone, then a light block sanding with 180 grit is the final step to make your part ready for primer. 80 grit paper is fine enough for any bare metal before priming. Fender pan strait smooth & ready for primer. Hope to prime next Sat, then wet sand & paint on Sun.

Get a sweepster most of the gravel is out in the yard some where.. The ground wasn't frozen befero this last storm and even with the plow skids down I still got a lot of stones in the yard. Sweepster will be working soon...

It might be and I’m sure it is but so far I’ve been able to push anything that mother nature has thrown at it. The white powdery stuff is simple of course. The heavy wet stuff we get around here because of the warm temperatures is probably more difficult to push but it also comes off cleanly on the concrete as in the video below. That helps with traction. I’ve just never needed much horsepower pushing up my steep concrete driveway. It’s only a 42 inch blade so that helps as well. The 54 inch on my dad‘s C-161 would be a better test I guess but with 16 hp it doesn’t notice it on there either. IMG_5963.MOV

Also surveying the winter damage to the snowblower. Knew I had some, so the parts came in this afternoon. Pulled it apart and installed one of the new bearings. Didn't tighten everything down because I had a couple of questions. Do these need lubrication, and if so, what kind. The bearing looks like Oilite, which shouldn't, but interested to hear what others have to say. The old one looks like it was packed with dried, dirty grease. I didn't tackle the other side. It's not as bad. I only ordered one set of housings, so I hope the other one is better. Probably could have cleaned and reused these, but.... Also, I didn't take the plug out of the worm gear housing to check fluid level, but plan to. If it's low, what lube should I use? My other tractor snowblower is another brand, and it came with abad seal and spun bearing in that (out of production) housing that had ruined the housing. I was able to find another assembly on the auction site and it was perfect. I pulled it apart to inspect and put it together. Decided to use the Mfr's recommended lube, Lubriplate GR132 Lithium grease. Seemed like an odd choice to me but I went with it. I would've thought SAE 75-90 gear oil or similar. Anyone know what Toro/Wheelhorse recommends off the top of their head? BTW it's a 79361 two stage. I don't know the year off the top of my head

halving a bare paved surface to work on makes a big difference. I have mostly gravel /dirt that is usually frozen and has a packed snow ice coating. Chains are mandatory. Also with over 1200 feet to plow i go flat out 7 mph speed does take horsepower.

Just as some background on the relationship between RedSquare and WHCC, here's a thread pinned at the top of this section of the forum. Read the WHOLE thing to get a clear picture of how things work at the show, and please make sure to sign up and/or pay your WHCC dues at the show: Updated! WHCC and RedSquare - Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

I was lucky. Before my Dad passed away he had ordered a stockpile of parts. This was 33 years ago. When I rescued the tractor I found it all. From gaskets, carb, tie rods, belts for tiller, bolts, lift cables, points and condenser, 12 air filters, 12 fuel filters. Can't have enough filters. All from Wheel Horse. Also both foot rests. Why he ordered the foot rests is a mystery because the originals were rust and damage free other than the surface rust from sitting in the elements. When he was alive the tractor never was stored outside.

On a serious note… we as in RedSquare members aren’t the governing body… we are guests to the WHCC’s show and I’d like to respect the fact that they allow our “presence” as a club. This isn’t an us vs. them post… just a respectful reminder that I’m glad to attend their show

I have a few. Need to take new ones with all the attachments finished.

I made this today. Still need to paint it. Hooks in the front tach-o-matic for towing a non running horse.

Well I cancelled my hotel room. Just not going to happen this year. To much going on in the span of summer. HOWEVER, if all goes right, I’ll be ordering one of these next week. A 20’x40’ pole shed that will sit right next to the container. Finally have a semi-solid game plan for a workspace. It was a hard decision

Lol ... didn't that happen last year Kev? We got there early and started cracking beers while waiting???

Thursday set up is by far the best day to be there. @stevasaurus told me that my rookie year and he is right. Don't know if I'll make it yet due to diesel prices but I told @Achto to get some vacation and if we don't go we'll do some fishing. Am I right about needing to be a WHCC member to sell parts or does that just apply to the horse trading area?

Day to day here also. One day wet one dry half fluffy. I just take a little less of a swipe when it is heavy.

You're going off roading. You do not have stock sized pullies. A 70" belt may not be the correct length. Are your pullies the same width? The same profile? Also The used transmission may have worn hubs /axle keyways. The load you're putting on it may be enough to make them slip. How about some pictures so we can see your pulley belt set up?

Some spacers / washers between hub and plate may have helped prevent the hub from cracking. Enough to compensate for the rim center support. ???

Flange/Bearing puller with some added steel plate. D200 hubs are very difficult to remove and the flange will easily break as the hub is quite long...

Holy crap Dan I'd had bondo in my crack at at the first pic and been bound up for a month of Sundays! Remember guys this is just under the seat that might not never be seen. Now you know how particular he is. Got a 701 hood ready for the same treatment if yer up for Dan. Pays lousy but bennies are good!

Our 312-H needed new tires, so it got some. V-61's for the front and Deestone Ags for the rear. Filled the fronts with fluid so far. Will fill the rears later.

And with that I'm gonna call it done Scuffed it, buffed it, detailed it, and stickered it. I can honestly say that the purchase of the tractor and the ensuing restoration is what has led me back to spending time with Horses and to being a vendor here on Red Square. It all started with a different way home from work, this tractor sitting along the road with a for sale sign on it , and my dad telling me "I know where there's a bunch of NOS parts and hubcaps to fit that" and here we are.

Ed you nailed it, EB can call this "Project Archimedes"

So the belt that was to short was a 82" D&D belt off Amazon. This belt is from TSC and its a Huskee Blue Kevlar. Guess they run different. Anyhoo, It drives ok now, just got to idle it down when taking off in 3rd gear.

On one side. I have a 12’ roll up door to put in the side of the container next to the barn. A 12’ x40’ awning will run off the other side of the barn.

For several years we had a two person hot tub. Nice to soak. Used salt water and a salt water chlorinator. It was not to bad on up keep and power. It was outside.

You just get ready to sell me that Senior on big show Saturday and you’ll have enough diesel money to get home

Try Duckduckgo as search engine instead of the spyware known as google… Noticeable elimination of that nonsense… and it’s free… @stevasaurus… Eric I would look at the deep tubs with walk in door. My Mom suffered from fibromyalgia and soaks definitely helped. She just stuck with her standard tub because well, she was Mom… but not needing to step over that side will be good as age does it’s thing… best wishes.

I can tell you this...I started looking at walk in tub/showers on the net a few years ago. I started getting sales phone calls witrhin minutes from all over the states. They were relentless for weeks. All I did was google the tubs, did not sign up or fill out anything. This is the time of year for "Home Improvement" shows. See if there are some close by and check them out, or shop locally.

Ok Tom @Shynon.... err Ed.... You just made some friends in MN Floyd!

Looking at the rust on that axle I don't think anything would have helped. That is taking a lot of force to pull that hub. Pressing it out the axle would have helped as the hub is a lot stronger in compression and the hub is thicker on the back side.

@Ed Kennell like your idea pile , regularly try out a different approach to a nagging issue . another thing I do , is to replace things while i,m in there . verify function , and make things solidly reliable . spring is definitely on the way , just did a quick aeration spiking trial . the bird swarm that came after that was amazing . keep tying stuff , pete

I believe that snow has a great deal of variations and is very hard to compare from place to place. Just like our horses vary like weight, weight placement ,tires, gearing, operator weight and other differences. Bob

“Uh yow, Red Ryder, this is the cotton mouth In the Psycho-Billy Cadillac come on, huh, this is the cotton mouth And negatory on the cost of this mow-chine there Red Ryder You might say I went right up to the factory And picked it up, it's cheaper that way Uh, what model is it? Well, it's a '49, '50, '51, '52, '53, '54, '55, '56 '57, '58' 59' automobile It's a '60, '61, '62, '63, '64, '65, '66, '67 '68, '69, '70 automobile”

Those lift rods are bad to get bent and hang up. I changed mine to a chain and a couple of clevises. Got the clevises from Wheelhorse parts and More. part no. 105820 clevis $4.99

Is this what it looks like in Cortlandt, New York.

Added a removable front weight ( 33lbs ) to the front of my 520. She's gonna do some work this year.

Ok here's one for you guys ... and it involves a . This was a box that I put in service vans between the seats. It had channels for hanging file folders like a filing cabinet. A clip on the underside of the lid. Was meant to be a mobile desk for work orders and such. All the techs did was fill it full of junk tho. Turned it into a ballast box for the FEL I got from @cschannuth. Wanted to mount it in a fashion to use the suitcases he let go with the tractor but @Achto says do this and use the weights for the front of a plow mule or something. Glad I listen to him and not my wife. Will be filling with concrete leaving 6 inches or so on the top for lifting chains, tools or whatnot.

It actually didn't change the temp in the cab, so it joined the other pile of bad ideas in the junk corner of the barn. The right side collector keeps the cab a toasty 30F higher than outside temp.

I put electric steering on Casper, my 656, a while back. The goal for the 125 is to have electric assist power steering, using a winch. Here is what I have done. Pic 1 is what the spool looks like, removed from a 12 volt electric winch, and disassembled. It is a steel spool with a hole through the center for the shaft. On the right side is where the spline is from the motor/gearbox that turns the spool. There is a small hole in the spool with a set screw. This secures the cable to the spool. Pic 2 is what I did to it. I did not want to cut the spool, so everything had to be split in half and put back together. The yellow in the pic is my clutch plate, or friction material, whatever you want to call it. First I made a round 3'16" steel disc (red) and attached it to the spool with screws. Again, this had to split and put on in 2 halves. I made another disc (blue) and got a sprocket hub (green) and a sprocket (orange). Split all of them, put them on the spool, and welded them all together. They are free to spin on the spool. When I put the electric steering on the 656, I used a cable running from the winch to the fan gear. Because of the placement, and interference with the hydraulic lift cylinder on the 125, I could use the existing fan gear so I sort-a made one. I started with a 1" block, 2" x 2" and bored a 3/4" hole through it, then cut it in half. Then I drilled and tapped it and used 2 socket head cap screws to clamp it back together. I also drilled and tapped a 5/16 hole for a set screw in the bottom. I welded on a 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 3" upright bar. This proved to be too wide, and I had to grind (customize) it a bit. I then welded a 1/2" X 3/4" bar across the top of that and drilled and taped it for 10-24 screws. This fastens the chain to the "fan" gear. Oh yeah. I opted for roller chain rather than cable. Very good move. . I have a 1/4" thick frame mounted under the tractor for the winch. It pivots in the rear, and will slide up and down (if necessary) on two 3/8" threaded rods, and is held down by springs. On the side of the frame rails I welded some what I will call chain guides. You might call them up-side side wood-ruff keys, but trust me, they are chain guides. There are a few extra holes, and some spacers added here and there, but you know those guys in engineering, always sending down a revision. So now all the mechanicals are on the tractor, but none of the electrical components. I decided to try it out by just hooking up a battery. I don't have any limit switches yet, but really, what can it hurt? It's a clutch. It will just keep on spinning. So I hook up a battery. I am sad to say it's a dud. While there is a noticeable difference in the amount of effort it takes to turn the wheels, it's not enough to make this a viable working, power steering unit. My friction material just doesn't have enough grab to it. For now, I put a set screw in the winch spool, and will add the electrical components, which in effect, will make it electric steering, but with no buttons to push. You will have to turn the steering wheel, right or left. I will say with the set screw in the spool, it turns fine, and it turns FAST ! I am going to see if I can order a new spool for my winch. I won't feel so bad about cutting one in half, if I have a spare. This may allow me to install a usable, working clutch mechanism. Maybe a magnetic clutch, or some type of pressure plate application. On a side note. For those of you that work on tractors a lot, and don't have a lift table, or some way to get your tractor up in the air, I STRONGLY recommend it. You can't believe how nice it is to get off of that cold floor. Not have to crawl from side to side. Don't have to get up every time you need a different wrench or screwdriver. I can sit in my desk chair a wheel around from side to side or anywhere else I need to go. I wish I had done it 6 tractors ago !

I thought I had a decent sweeper on my 512-D until I saw this absolute UNIT of a sweeper. That'll throw some rocks for sure. Steel bristles on it?

I’ll buy it before, and rent it out to ya for the parade. Deal.

Happy to oblige! I'll have to wait until later to listen to these, don't want to bother the ladies of the house with excessive volume.

I would sure try it. I think those briggs are good engines. Parts are plentiful and easy to get.

I ate this thread for breakfast. All I can say is that is was delicious! Fantastic restoration. Well done.

I'm an impulse buyer! LoL Bought an engine one year just for the cardboard sign the guy had tagged on it, because it was funny "Ran at one time" --- A new take on the- Ran when parked Took it out of the hidden spot way back in the vendor barns and put it out on the road in front of our spot. Quite the conversation piece as most people were laughing to. It sold for the same thing I paid for it. It was an old 7hp Kohler but it still had plenty of useful parts on it.

Does it have headlights? Taillights? If originality isn’t a concern maybe upgrade to some LED headlight bulbs.

Snowplow came off the 308-8 today….so she was able to make a trip out into the woods. Just showing off the front end flex while looking like a one eyed pirate 🏴‍☠️