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Ever notice how the tools progress when you encounter a stubborn fastener.

Poor Eb can't catch a break even in other threads!

Could go for a two wheeler

Choosing The Right Tool For The Job Are you telling me no more using a screwdriver for a cold chisel? What about using the nose hair pickers for a snap ring pliers ???? I suppose that's out too!?!

So, in the evolution of fastener removers was this the missing link???

Have one or four myself Never dreamed I ever have even one! Was up to a six pack at one time but a bad axle and a motor too expensive to rebuild turned her to parts to keep the others running.

I'm not into hot rods personally, not saying I wouldn't if I had the time, just so many other things I like to do. I have two ten horse, wheel horse tractors and they run very good and are probably the best all around worker's they made, in my opinion. Fuel efficient, powerful, long lasting, and durable. All of mine are workers and I have from eight horse to twenty, twins and single cylinder. You probably have a ground problem and or bear wires, with the sheet metal rattling like you mentioned, not unusual in a decades old WH. I'm interested in watching what you built, like others have stated, it's you tractor do with as you please, if you have a youngster around, good chance to get him or her exposed to the passion. Darb

I will say this to all of you: I'm a big proponent of folks doing what they want with thier tractors. I am not a member of the WH Police! I was just hoping to point out the massive potential of that Mag10 compared to anything manufactured in the last 15 years, and even more so when made in China. And it was NONE of my business! I just have a soft spot for Magnums. They are the best of both worlds between the ruggedness of a K series and the convenience of magneto ignition. Disclaimer- I regularly use china copies of carbs and cheap volt guages and so on. I have no room to judge anybody! Short version point being- it was the opinion I would give myself in your position. Nothing more. I didn't mean to sound otherwise. I've seen plenty of ifixoldjunk's posts here, and it is some great stuff. Sometimes I forget that I'm responding to a seasoned member.

Credit where due. Bengals used to be a bunch of thugs. You can see how well they responded to good coaching and I haven't heard about beating up girlfriends or falling out of pickup trucks and dying. Top notch defense by both teams. Both QB's at least had the image of being good sons to their families. The Bengals went from the basement to the sky in just two years. Cleveland also made a difference this year. Maybe the appearance of young faster QB's is the result of not being allowed to use crushing tackles on the field generals..Mahones was the start of that, and we all saw the result. Fast on their feet QB's who go for a fast first down and then slide to keep from getting hit hard. Sometimes two plays in a row. I still love Aaron Rogers, however. If you saw the playoffs this year, that was the real show. More like buzzer beater basketball than football.All kinds of cliff hanger games. Bengals beating Patrick mahomes was a great game. Maybe they still kneel, but they did not show that stuff. Knowing that they do puts me in a sort of compromised moral position I will admit. The only time I felt like throwing stuff at the TV was when the cop hater Lebron James was shown in the crowd. Go Bengals go Wolverines.

What @Achto is doing here is clever… same as @ebinmaine… post a bunch of stuff unrelated to their respective build threads… keep the ‘s occupied… not paying attention to their build progress… Squirrel!!!

There’s always the tool time approach…

Be damned if you weren't right though Silvia... on closer inspection, appears they did. 👽

Well, my DF52 gene has flared again. Going back to my rock now to take a nap. But I will look to my Webster's ID-10-Tango repair manual before commenting further.

Thanks! And it's not beating myself up so much as I hate to come across the wrong way. Like these old tractors, places like this are fading away. I want to keep it clean and civil, and 'functional' for as long as we can.

I’m well aware of the possibility for destroying a belt, but thanks for your concern! Stay tuned for carnage details!

I look at tires for my horses mostly by cost - I figure I'm not gonna need to get 40-50000 miles out of em so I just go for the best price, I've got a set of the 1050's in -- xxx brand (Nanco?) on one of my D's that is some 5-6 yrs old and look as new. Last I cked I saw pair of X brand for under $200.

I could have stuck a 10 hp Kohler in this and straightened some sheet metal and tightened up the front axle and called it good. I have 4 other ones I could do that to as well. I think I came out ahead.

Who's dreaming here, I suspect there's no "MAKE" option on your side of the controls.

Sounds about more like it....

Thinking the mother ship left you here.

Always seems like a shame / sad to see what was a fine piece of equipment, rust / deteriorate away and find it's way to the scrap. I like Arnold Palmer's comments in the age old Quaker State commercial: "Just maintaining the old equipment". Incidentally the old Toro tractor used in that commercial in on display locally and still looks good.

You just described how I feel about myself… I have PM’ed members here to explain my humor, and make sure we are good.

I ain’t planning on leaving… until the Good Lord takes me… now FB… that may be a different story…

PennDot 62.5% of final salary after 25 years.

Robert A Heinlein coined the word in his SF novels, it's an empathic understanding.

Jeff is that a typo, or what the heck? We southern hillbillies have secret code too, so I'm out of the loop here...

Most, dang near all 520s are hydros. Those require a minimum of half throttle just to keep the hydro cool and happy. An Onan P220 should make huge oil pressure even at idle, but it will get hot in a hurry. Probably best to run 2/3 to full throttle all the time. Flathead Kohler with a manual tranny? You can putt putt all you want with those.

AND be able to eat what you're throwing!

Not wrong at all. I just love old Kohlers. If maintained, they will be here after we are gone. Unfortunately they aren't making more of them. As I said it wasn't my business anyway. My bigger mistake was not paying close attention to who I was responding to. He knows what he is doing. I will follow ifixoldjunk too. So many times people drop in here to float ideas, destroy a decent machine, and are never heard from again. I've found many tractors locally after someone ran out of interest, and left a rusting pile of scrap. Even a neighbor of mine once found 8 tractors, mostly mid 60s square hoods. He piddled with a couple and got them running, and then scrapped the rest. None were pretty, but nearly all were complete with good sheetmetal and implements. One had a clevis hitch and the old style electric lift. He's a great fella, and a good friend. He certainly owes me nothing- but that bothered me a bunch. I think I could've found most if not all of them a home better than a scrapyard. End of rant. But I hope it clarifies where my knee-jerk comes from. Here lately it is like a reflex, and like any other I didn't think before posting a reply.

The old man was Navy for 20 years. Freedom: I won't forget the men who died who gave that right to me. Don

But also more airflow... There must be a 'balance point' where the temperature would stabilize. Does the amount of added airflow that occurs with added RPM remove the added heat? How about when it's working hard and ambient temperature is high? At what RPM and load conditions does not enough air flow to cool the engine?

The rear pulley works great! I just need to take up some more slack so the clutch will grab!

Deck mounted WH blowers are somewhat scarce, and you'll need all the parts including the outer deck pulley to run it. It will work best with a fixed collector like a rear mounted bagger system. The rear mounted WH versions are more rare, but work very well. There are many aftermarket versions, but they typically they have another engine mounted to a trailer. Used models show up on Craigslist fairly often here in NC. New ones are quite expensive for what they are, but do work well so long as you don't have oaks that drop little twigs all year. You'll have to stop and unclog the intake regularly if you do. That applies to most any of the versions mentioned. Or you can make your own. That route has quite a bit of fabrication. There are several versions online. I built one for my father in law that works great, but it is alot of work and I already had a good collector. The pic below was before I added the hoses. Rigid from the deck and flex to the collector.

@ebinmaineI bought a harbor freight motorcycle lift table and made a larger top for it. I forgot how much I paid for it but I think it was around 500 bucks? This thing is a dream for working on tractors! No more kneeling on concrete. I would highly recommend this.

Get a carburetor kit that contains the welch plug, many do not. Throw away the intake gaskets and get genuine Onan. Use the old float and needle if OK, but if the needle needs replaced carefully file the sharp edge off where it contacts the float to prevent it from hanging up. Toss any hose and clamps in the kit. The fuel filter will be cheap junk. Basically what you will be using is the bowl and flange gaskets, the welch plug and maybe the needle and the float. The rest is junk.

Always idle down any engine before turning off the ignition, if the engine is very hot, let it idle a couple of minutes. A properly operating float, needle and seat will not leave additional gas to flow into the engine. If the problem persists, lose the Chinese junk.

You also have to remember that the opposed twins - Kohler and Onan - with the carb sitting on the top of the engine if the needle is 'leaking?' it will drip directly into the manifold and you will not see typical 'flooding' as on the singles. My B43 Onans carb system has a tendency to be very .... sensitive? in the float/needle area. And, bottom line is if excess fuel is getting into the cyl it HAS to get there by by the needle .

Googled these pics. 10.50 OTRs and 10.50 Tru powers.

Very true! Whatever you decide to do with YOUR is the correct thing to do with it. Please bring us along for the ride by posting updates with lots of .

We have on! Can send pictures if interested

This Auto tranx has far fewer parts than a manual trans making repair and parts replacement much easier. Here are a few pics a 'C' series Auto Tranx and gear setup. The 'D' series is nearly exactly the same. ps...I did not find a Youtube video for the Auto Trans repair.

I have a setup similar to what Don described. My shop had a 12’ x 26 ft outside covered area. It’s ceiling is the floor for an upstairs loft room so the ceiling/floor has 2x12 joist on 24” centers courtesy of a salvage opportunity. there are 2 rows of bolts sticking through the ceiling in the above photo. I use the same “barn door” rail @ebinmaine has pictured and the bolts fasten the rail to the ceiling. The bolt screws into a long coupling nut that has been welded to a metal plate that is bolted to the joist. I currently don’t have a rail up as I had suspended a Jet Ski up with straps from 4 bolts to do some bottom work.

Full throttle and let it eat!! But… anyone that wants to volunteer to mow my grass and test that speed all summer is welcome! 😂

Clearly, it's a '60 model 400 up there.

Well, first you said: Then: So... that is why we are discussing... I thought it was obvious, but if I run my mowers at 2,800-3,000... and try to run through tall/thick grass... it is going to bog down... Don

I'm prepared to accept the manufacturer's engineers' expertise on this one and follow the guideline they published in the OM. 3600 RPM for working and governed idle of 1100-1200 for cool down. Some years back a member instrumented a P220 to get head temps for the front and rear cylinders (to attempt to add real data to the anecdotal "high rear cylinder failure rate" commentary). If memory serves, both heads were stabilized at very similar temps in the mid-300º Fahrenheit range running at 3600 RPM under load in warm weather with the standard tins (including the oil filter gasket). Temps spiked briefly to upper 300's immediately after shutdown and then cooled. His conclusion was that if there was premature failure on the rear cylinder, it wasn't related to head temps.

Nice Project ! enjoy it Here we didn‘t have that much snow this Season, just 2 times about little of 20cm. once in mid of Dec. and again the same about 2Weeks ago, that‘s it for now. it is all nearly completely molten. So not that much Snowfun this year...

Air to fuel ratio will have a major effect on cylinder head temperatures. Really, the "heat" you think about is split into 2 portions, top-end heat... bottom-end heat. The fan on our engines cools the oil (to a certain extent), thus reducing oil temperature's in the bottom end. The fan does little... to nothing for top-end heat. Again, proper air/fuel ratios will have a drastic effect on head temperatures. Having said that, the cooling of the bottom-end can also be controlled (again, to a certain extent) with different weights of oil. If you put too thin oil in the engine... you are going to get extra heat. Regarding airflow... I watched the temperature gauge on my 457 very closely last summer 90+ degree day. SO... what I noticed is that, when I was grading the driveway, pulling my BIG 0ZZ ripper behind the tractor, the temperature was steady at around 2,000 RPM over a period of 15-20 minutes. When I increased throttle to 3,600 RPM to go a bit faster, the engine began heating a little below +20 degrees warmer. When I backed it back down to 2,000 RPM, it cooled back down. (keep in mind, this engine did not struggle or bog down at all... ripping many inches of rock). THEREFORE... in my humble opinion, the fans on our engines are sufficient for both lower and higher RPMS respectively. As for load. The less power you have, the more demand for power increase, and thus the more strain the engine is going to have (obviously). But what this really means is that the rod is rotating on the crank... pressing on the crank (for lack of a better term) THAT much harder. It is working to perform in a scenario in which a bigger engine... wouldn't even bog down. When a small engine is struggling, it will certainly increase temperatures. THUS... why in these engines, you will get less heat by increasing RPMS than leaving it at, say 2,500, and letting it strain. Any of that make sense. A bit easier to demonstrate in-person... Don