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Hi! Ho! It's off to work we go.

OMG! I was operating the PTO while standing checking out the tiller operation. Was used to my C series tractors and thought the seat switch was for starting. Put my butt in the seat and all works fine! Probably the fastest, easiest fix I will ever experience on my "ponies"....thanks to all the gurus on this site!!

Down here I put that s**t in everything. Actually I use their SAE 40 in any of my old flathead engines, those old L heads are pretty dirty running engines with no filters. If you run a 10w30 in them you'll burn a little more oil than the straight weight. Your 16 hp has a filter and tighter tolerance especially with only 200 hr. I would think any quality 10w30. be it straight, a blend, or synthetic well work just fine all year round, just depends on how much you want to spend. We sometimes tend to over think thing here, it's a 16hp garden tractor designed to do what it's suppose to do with the oil the manufacture recommends, it's not a Bugatti Veyron .

Can't just look pretty, gotta pay your dues.

Assembly is underway. Now is cross breeding tires from John deere snowblowers illegal 🤣.

Figured that I would pipe up... been wanting to join in this thread for a while... Trailer and trash Thursday! Don

Hey @Jeff-C175 no flat tires today!

Hi everybody. I’ll be traveling tomorrow afternoon from southeastern MA (Boston/RI) area up to Bangor Maine. If anybody needs anything hauled up that way or down back this way, please let me know. Thanks. Paul.

Finally made a video of Maxene’s first ride. Happy Thursday!

I avoid oil type discussions because after all we all have opinions (as we all have rectums) but let me comment on the close enough for government work. Back in the early/mid 1800s only the federal government had time and expertise to do quality surveying and making fine measurements. Hence the term close enough for government work was actually a positive thing... Then we got civil service unions etc...

Tires on that trailer look pretty flat.

So I cleaned up the coil sanded all the rust off and re set the gap and installed a new plug and she finally fired IMG_4729.MOV

And check this out! Cousining!

Getting ready here today. Snowmageddon may or may not be coming next week! Here's hoping... these 500 tons will see us through.

Absolutely correct!!

Be careful operating an attachment especially a rotating one while not in the seat , can turn bad real fast. Bob

Notice 20220113_111101.mp4 these frameless dump trailers are soo badass!

Course it all depends on how small you want the resulting bits to be.

A little C4 should help

Update My wife had her staples and temporary stint removed today. The Dr. said she is doing very well. She is slowly gaining her strength back and should be back to energy level before dialysis in about 6 months. Jay

How cute is this?

I haven't checked the roll pin in the clutch lever but everything appears to be moving properly (I think)... the tensioner pulley/shaft/ lever all move together. I will check it in the event it is sheared and maybe just wedged on with the broken pin. My original belt is 5/8" X 82". I tried a new (1 inch smaller) 81" Kevlar belt in the same width of 5/8". It was too tight. I had to slam the shifter into gear to get it moving. (not good) I don't want to damage the transmission. The clutch spring is intact but it's the original spring, going by it's appearance. I'll get another spring asap just in case. The belt cover was NOT put back on when I tried driving it and still wouldn't move. I will try reinstalling that to. I'll also check the running board to see if that may be preventing full motion of the linkages. I appreciate all your help gentleman.... I give your suggestions a try asap.

Most pto's have a safety switch that won't let the engine crank with the pto engaged. I think some also have a pto safety switch that cuts the seat safety switch into the power to the ignition, so when the pto is engaged, you need to stay seated. If the seat safety switch goes bad and does not close, what you are experiencing can happen.

Check your seat safety switch.

You can kind of see how bright they are but are way better when it’s dark. Picture does them no justice. You can find them on ebay sometimes at a good price. Place where I got mine isn’t on there anymore.

Gotta ask, any interest in doubling your money.??? I see a for sale sign...was that just sitting in a yard? I live on the other side of the river from you and it was never on Marketplace or Craigslist or I would own it. to the

Ran into a issue today. One of the original 3 rims is heavily pitted on inside. So I am going to work on that one later this year. Instead I had a pair of miscellaneous rims sitting in shed that I will use temporarily.

Took the C-100 and the Raider 12 out for some fun in the snow and snapped a picture while the lighting was good

I honestly don't know if I like my custom tail lights. Much work remains Continued on post # 14235

The bottom line is...air in..air out, the more air you can get in, the more fuel you can add, results in a more violent explosion, you can supplement an inefficient engine by bumping compression but you creep up on the detonation line which is where you pass the point of no longer gaining anything..and power plummets. You can add an oxygenizer like Nitrous, its not flammable but under combustion the 2 oxygen molecules break apart from NO² to NO and O, this free oxygen molecule allows you to add more fuel without going rich...instant dynamic compression boost. Or you can add air under pressure with a supercharger or turbocharger, this forces more air in which allows you to add fuel.

How bad are they Rick? Pictures? The key is PROBABLY the same as most others. WH part # 937108 but MIGHT BE a shorter # 937097 (not likely though) The 937108 is a 1/4" x 1-3/8" Woodruff key ( also known as a #22 industry standard number ) https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/937108-woodruff-key-for-wheel-horse/ The 937097 is a 1/4" x 1" Woodruff key ( also known as a #15 industry standard number ) If your hubs have only one setscrew, highly suggest that you add a SECOND one 90° around from the first. Doesn't need a key, just the set screw. Your friend should be able to easily drill and tap and ALSO machine a FLAT SPOT for the jam nut to sit on the hub. Loctite 660 is some pretty amazing stuff. You don't NEED the primer he uses, that only speeds the cure. I had a wallowed out key way on one of my machines about 5 or more years ago. It was pretty bad... used some 660 and a new hub (the hub was way worse than the keyway!) and it's been fine ever since.

thanks for your correction ,just going by what I was told 40 years ago . I apologize for the misinformation thank you again

And here with the throttle up or high.

@JCM love plowing snow ! like once you start it , its so much fun , you are always looking for more to plow. just that effortless push off the blade , that 8-10 " we had last week is , back to grass, waiting for more , maybe Monday , pete

Try a new plug

@19richie66 Then there's this:

Very thoughtful of you.

I filled a stuck 24hp Kohler in every hole I could with used oil and let it sit for a year. Pulled the plugs, rocked the flywheel back and forth gently until it would roll over, and it actually fired up after all that!

I believe these have 11 flash patterns and two solid on settings. One is on @10% and the other is @70%. Mine are at 10% and they are bright to look at. I would like to try their work lights. They look well made.

Now things are getting even sillier. Before the V twins, opposed twins were a hot item with the roundy round racers, but heres the problem- racers spend countless hours trying to squeeze an edge on their competition, and they're not going to share those secrets. Ive even tried to squeeze some info out of folks since its not a common class anymore, with very little help. Time to figure it out myself- I built a flow bench. Yes its simple and crude, and I cant calculate an actual number- but it IS repeatable, and will tell me whether I gained or lost airflow, a rough idea how much, and at what valve lift I see those changes. Starting with an old, bone stock block and a couple hours of tinkering, I've already found some interesting things on the intake side: 1. the stock port 'stalls' at just .200 valve lift (no additional air flow no matter how high I open the valve) 2. some very mild port cleanup helps, but not as much as expected 3. 'laying back' the eyebrow helps very little, but fully relieving the area between the valve and cylinder does- about as much as the light port cleanup 4. Cutting a 45 degree angle on the valve seat below the 30 degree factory seat angle, and back cutting the valve in the same spot makes a BIG difference up to .150 lift- actually three times more gain that either porting or relieving. Low lift gains are what will start that cylinder filling quickly, and that makes torque! 5. Folks talk about NOT milling oppy heads- it squeezes the 'transfer' area between the head and block and the loss of air flow hurts more than the gains in compression. In 100% stock form, removing the head gasket (mimicking a .045 head milling) indeed hurt max lift air flow a bit, but once all the other work was done, it made zero difference. At this point, I am seeing air flow gains across the board, and no more port 'stall' at .200, although the increase in flow beyond .200 are slow, steady climbs. Stay tuned, the next round I will be getting into much more serious work using real porting tools instead of all I had on hand at the time- a round file

It's also possible that the PTO linkage is worn and the switch is on the 'hairy edge' of being closed all the way. Try to get a good look at the PTO switch as you are engaging it. You may find that as you engage further the switch is opening again.

I use Rotelle T1 straight 30 with 1 oz of ZDDP per quart. API classifications dictate the amounts of additives included in the blend.

My brother has had JD 317 for many years and he got it used. Back in the 90s he replaced the KT-17 with a new one as the original was over two thousand hours and leaked like a sieve. Family trait of never throwing anything away he put in the loft of his barn. About 2006 I picked up a C-175 that had a ventilated crankcase.... Got the stored motor put in some new seals, swapped sheetmetal and intake/exhaust manifolds and she is now on sweeper duty. Smokes a bit on start up but it clears pretty fast and she goes to work. Meanwhile he is still using the 317.. it is a beast....

The Shay...these are excellent to see run if you ever get the chance.

Not much draw at all. Rated at .750 amps each. I don’t think the tractor even realizes they are on plus they are metal housing, sealed and five year warranty. I am very happy with them.

Rebuild kit for the Walk-Aways carburetor finally showed up in the mail today.

Friday afternoons are for tractor rides with Unc! Baby Maxene’s first ride! The WHRat ran flawlessly and helped blaze the trail for the trailer too.