Leaderboard

Hi! Ho! It's off to work we go.

OMG! I was operating the PTO while standing checking out the tiller operation. Was used to my C series tractors and thought the seat switch was for starting. Put my butt in the seat and all works fine! Probably the fastest, easiest fix I will ever experience on my "ponies"....thanks to all the gurus on this site!!

Down here I put that s**t in everything. Actually I use their SAE 40 in any of my old flathead engines, those old L heads are pretty dirty running engines with no filters. If you run a 10w30 in them you'll burn a little more oil than the straight weight. Your 16 hp has a filter and tighter tolerance especially with only 200 hr. I would think any quality 10w30. be it straight, a blend, or synthetic well work just fine all year round, just depends on how much you want to spend. We sometimes tend to over think thing here, it's a 16hp garden tractor designed to do what it's suppose to do with the oil the manufacture recommends, it's not a Bugatti Veyron .

Can't just look pretty, gotta pay your dues.

Assembly is underway. Now is cross breeding tires from John deere snowblowers illegal 🤣.

Figured that I would pipe up... been wanting to join in this thread for a while... Trailer and trash Thursday! Don

Hey @Jeff-C175 no flat tires today!

Hi everybody. I’ll be traveling tomorrow afternoon from southeastern MA (Boston/RI) area up to Bangor Maine. If anybody needs anything hauled up that way or down back this way, please let me know. Thanks. Paul.

Finally made a video of Maxene’s first ride. Happy Thursday!

I avoid oil type discussions because after all we all have opinions (as we all have rectums) but let me comment on the close enough for government work. Back in the early/mid 1800s only the federal government had time and expertise to do quality surveying and making fine measurements. Hence the term close enough for government work was actually a positive thing... Then we got civil service unions etc...

Tires on that trailer look pretty flat.

So I cleaned up the coil sanded all the rust off and re set the gap and installed a new plug and she finally fired IMG_4729.MOV

And check this out! Cousining!

Getting ready here today. Snowmageddon may or may not be coming next week! Here's hoping... these 500 tons will see us through.

Absolutely correct!!

Be careful operating an attachment especially a rotating one while not in the seat , can turn bad real fast. Bob

Notice 20220113_111101.mp4 these frameless dump trailers are soo badass!

Course it all depends on how small you want the resulting bits to be.

A little C4 should help

Update My wife had her staples and temporary stint removed today. The Dr. said she is doing very well. She is slowly gaining her strength back and should be back to energy level before dialysis in about 6 months. Jay

How cute is this?

I haven't checked the roll pin in the clutch lever but everything appears to be moving properly (I think)... the tensioner pulley/shaft/ lever all move together. I will check it in the event it is sheared and maybe just wedged on with the broken pin. My original belt is 5/8" X 82". I tried a new (1 inch smaller) 81" Kevlar belt in the same width of 5/8". It was too tight. I had to slam the shifter into gear to get it moving. (not good) I don't want to damage the transmission. The clutch spring is intact but it's the original spring, going by it's appearance. I'll get another spring asap just in case. The belt cover was NOT put back on when I tried driving it and still wouldn't move. I will try reinstalling that to. I'll also check the running board to see if that may be preventing full motion of the linkages. I appreciate all your help gentleman.... I give your suggestions a try asap.

Most pto's have a safety switch that won't let the engine crank with the pto engaged. I think some also have a pto safety switch that cuts the seat safety switch into the power to the ignition, so when the pto is engaged, you need to stay seated. If the seat safety switch goes bad and does not close, what you are experiencing can happen.

Check your seat safety switch.

You can kind of see how bright they are but are way better when it’s dark. Picture does them no justice. You can find them on ebay sometimes at a good price. Place where I got mine isn’t on there anymore.

Gotta ask, any interest in doubling your money.??? I see a for sale sign...was that just sitting in a yard? I live on the other side of the river from you and it was never on Marketplace or Craigslist or I would own it. to the

Ran into a issue today. One of the original 3 rims is heavily pitted on inside. So I am going to work on that one later this year. Instead I had a pair of miscellaneous rims sitting in shed that I will use temporarily.

Took the C-100 and the Raider 12 out for some fun in the snow and snapped a picture while the lighting was good

I honestly don't know if I like my custom tail lights. Much work remains Continued on post # 14235

Come to think of it, and im probably jinxing myself here, in all the years ive run karts, mustangs, vettes, trucks, tractors...ive never broken a rod from rpms. I had a tecumseh h50 on a gokart with no governor and we ran that thing for years just screaming...never hurt it. Throttle hung on my 454 after doing an intake swap and it ran up so high i had to pull the cluster to move the stuck needle back into range...

You just keep adding timing and boost until the piston crown comes out the breather...then you know, 1⁰ less timing and 1psi less boost.

The bottom line is...air in..air out, the more air you can get in, the more fuel you can add, results in a more violent explosion, you can supplement an inefficient engine by bumping compression but you creep up on the detonation line which is where you pass the point of no longer gaining anything..and power plummets. You can add an oxygenizer like Nitrous, its not flammable but under combustion the 2 oxygen molecules break apart from NO² to NO and O, this free oxygen molecule allows you to add more fuel without going rich...instant dynamic compression boost. Or you can add air under pressure with a supercharger or turbocharger, this forces more air in which allows you to add fuel.

If we get snow my 16hp blower will probably be able to handle it. if not and I need more uumph 40 hp and 5500-lbs on a Casedc 3 will step up. Sorry but 50 hp and a few hundred pounds of tractor aren't going to do it. Traction with weight is the key!!

@Jeff-C175... you also touch on another important point. Another aspect that I think is worthy of our consideration is, more so than the type of oil used, what is even more important is changing the oil at regular, proper intervals. Imagining that racing guys put a lot of time and effort into avoiding crank journal wear, they change the oil VERY often. This is done for various reasons. But considering that any particles of aluminum in the oil not only get inside the crank journal, but also glide across the cam lobes, it is pretty obvious how this could be a bad combination. Thus why, you can use the “best” oil on the market, (whatever you think that is), but if you don’t change it enough… you are eliminating the purpose of using that quality oil. I change the oil in my performance engines not long after the oil turns dark. Don

How bad are they Rick? Pictures? The key is PROBABLY the same as most others. WH part # 937108 but MIGHT BE a shorter # 937097 (not likely though) The 937108 is a 1/4" x 1-3/8" Woodruff key ( also known as a #22 industry standard number ) https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/937108-woodruff-key-for-wheel-horse/ The 937097 is a 1/4" x 1" Woodruff key ( also known as a #15 industry standard number ) If your hubs have only one setscrew, highly suggest that you add a SECOND one 90° around from the first. Doesn't need a key, just the set screw. Your friend should be able to easily drill and tap and ALSO machine a FLAT SPOT for the jam nut to sit on the hub. Loctite 660 is some pretty amazing stuff. You don't NEED the primer he uses, that only speeds the cure. I had a wallowed out key way on one of my machines about 5 or more years ago. It was pretty bad... used some 660 and a new hub (the hub was way worse than the keyway!) and it's been fine ever since.

thanks for your correction ,just going by what I was told 40 years ago . I apologize for the misinformation thank you again

Hey, get out of here with that thing! Whats up wild man? Didn't know you were here on the square too! -Scotty

Nope, I just kind of lead y’all on the wrong way. It will be better off used for projects and other’s projects the same

Many fuel related problems are caused by the ethanol in most gas today. If you change over to ethanol free gas and add some Sea Foam gas treatment that should help. This site will tell you where to get gas without ethanol, https://www.pure-gas.org/

We had a Siamese when I was a wee tyke that would bring snakes home on a regular basis. Had to be careful when we let him in. He would actually knock on the door when he wanted in. He used his rear paw, back to the door, knock knock knock knock ... constantly until we let him in. His name was "King". He lived for TWENTY ONE YEARS!

Same with Stanly back in the day. He was a mouse terrorizing machine! Mice, lizards, squirrels, and rabbits trembled in fear. He even picked off the occasional snake. But he left the birds alone. The wife loves her cardinals, finches, and blue birds. Stanly just seemed to know better... Bird feeders were off limits!

They look great to me! I think those are the same that were installed on our company trucks and used as strobes. They were very bright!

For the gas tank hole, see if you can find a large rubber grommet at your hardware store in all those little gray drawers to fit loosely on the filler neck and overlap the rough metal hole. Taking it to a welder is the best option, but Fiberglass is your next best option. If you have no glass experience get a kit from Home Depo or your hardware store. Watch some online videos. Practice on some hard cardboard or plywood similar shaped holes. my hint, sometimes its seems hard to get all the fibers to lay down. One you have the fibers well wetted with resin to the metal, lay a piece of non-stick plastic wrap across the wet fiberglass. Have a helper help you so your holding all 4 corners of the wrap to keep the wrinkles out as you lay it into the glass. Then you can use your hands to smooth it out. Do the bottom first with plastic wrap then heavy tape covering the hole from the top side. Use a very thin smooth piece of glass, especially on the top side, such as hoppy shop model airplane thin thickness. Let it dry, use a dremel to smooth anything not flush on the top side. Also scratch up the hard glass surface that the top side glass will adhere to. Repeat using the bottom glass like you did the tape. fiberglass sands hard. so again use a dremel or electric sander to work to a rough smooth shape. Use Body Putty to smooth scratches in the glass and blend to the surrounding metal. For the belt guard, assemble stacking on the bolt a flat washer, belt guard, flat washer, spacer, then screw into the block.

Keep the Hydro and put the rear end on a hand truck to get it to his trailer, or just let the scrap man earn his free scrap metal.

Nothing a little old school Liquid Wrench wouldn't fix... ... With help from a sledgehammer maybe.

As you wish sir. Did 2 threads intentionally because I thought it would be more confusing as one. I defer to experience. Tomatoes tomattos. Welder, sadly no.

Here is what he is talking about: SAM_2940.MP4