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I have not done very much gun painting, so maybe I am not qualified to make this comparison, but I can tell some things I have learned, and my opinion on a few things. Cost. The spray paint I was using, paint prime, clear coat, averages out to ~ $5.25 a can. I have used anywhere from 8 - 15 cans on a single tractor. Average it to 11 cans of paint, it comes out to $57.75 for Rattle can paint I don't have the numbers in front of me for the single stage blue paint I used on the mower, but I do have primer cost. Primer, reducer, hardener, $116. I only actually used half of that, so, $58 Thats just for the primer. The single stage paint, I'm sure was higher. Obviously gun paint is more than rattle cans. Plus you have added the costs of filters, mixing cups, and lacquer thinner for cleaning the gun. All of these little things add up to less than $10 I think, but it still costs. Ease One of the things about rattle can painting is, you push the button, the paint comes out. Pretty simple, but you have no control how that paint comes out. You have no control over the volume of paint, the pressure, or the pattern. It is what it is. With a gun, you have pretty much complete control. Some small area are hard to get paint into. You can reduce air, volume, and adjust your pattern to a pin point if thats what you want. You can also adjust to a vertical fan, horizontal fan, lots of paint, or very little. I like that about gun painting. Clean up When you are done painting with a can, you either toss it away, or put it on a shelf somewhere if there is enough left to save. In a a year, maybe 2, if you can still find that can, you look at it and wonder, "How old is this stuff?" With a gun, you HAVE to clean it, and clean it WELL ! I use Lacquer thinner. after your satisfied you have your gun clean, what to do with this dirty Lacquer thinner. All I can say is, Let your conscience be your guide. It HAS to go somewhere. But as with rattle cans, you will have gun paint left over also. Not only paint, but reducer, and hardener as well. When I bought the primer for this last project, I knew I had at least 2 partial cans of reducer at home. The lady at the paint store explained, if you are going to use brand XYZ paint, you should use brand XYZ reducer and hardener. Is it really necessary? I don't know, but sounded plausible to me. I bought more reducer, and hardener. I have no idea of it's shelf life, but I won't use rattle can primer under gun paint again, so maybe I will use it up. As far as the Baby Blue paint, I don't mind experimenting, but I just don't think I could bring myself to paint a Wheel Horse, Baby Blue. Maybe I will find a Panzer, they were Baby Blue, sort-a, kind-a. I think. Finish. I won't be using single stage paint again I don't think. While I believe the finished look is better than rattle can, it does not compare to base coat with clear coat on top. Try as you might, you won't get as good of luster, shine, or durability with a rattle can that you can achieve with a gun. I have some pretty good rattle can finishes on some of my tractors. At least I think so. If you have a small piece, and you can lay it almost flat, and maintain a perfect "wet look" throughout the piece, and then do the same with 2 - 3 coats of clear, it will come out very nice. Especially with Lacquer. Thats much harder to do with a fender pan or hood, hanging from a wire in your garage. For me, it's easier to do with a gun. Your mileage may vary. These are my opinions only. Take them for what they are worth. I will never be the Painter @Achto, and many others on here are, but I learn a bit more with every try. As with everything else there are a lot of helpful Youtube videos out there. And also as with everything else, there are a lot of videos of guys trying to impress you with how much they know, and not really telling you anything. Dollar wise to get set up for gun painting you will need a gun. I think mine was $40 at HF. Not their cheapest, but far from the most expensive. A regulator/moisture trap. I have a regulator on my compressor, and another on my gun, but when you buy a moisture trap at HF, they have a regulator. About $50. Respirator about $25. I don't care how much rattle can painting you have done without a respirator, don't try it with gun paint. It'll kill ya ! Or at the very least, make you wish you were dead. I definitely need to improve on my ventilation system.I'm not quite sure just how to do that yet, but just about anything would be an improvement. I will also be buying one of those white, cover-alls, with some kind of cap for my head. My hair is going to be this color for a few days I think.If and when I do paint another tractor it will be with primer, base, and clear coat. I believe it provides the best finish. Maybe I could clear coat this single stage paint, I don't know. But I'm not going to. One more tip. After applying each coat, go outside, eat a banana. You may not need, or even like that banana, but if you had to, you would pay dearly for that clean air.

Started tearing down my 657....this will be getting an 8 horse magnum and will be an “857”

Rattle can outside for me… No muss no fuss and ok for what I’m doing…

Resealed them two intake halfs tonight.

ok here are some pics of it, the last pic you can see Im free to do other work instead of expelling my energy hehehe

A good write up. Thank you. The Paint Department here, aka Trina, and I have thus far only built worker tractors or equipment that we don't mind having a second rate paint job on. We've discussed getting her set up with an inexpensive paint gun. It's likely in the future but not a priority... Yet. A big reason is that here we have no space to paint inside. We've carefully weighed the compromise of paint quality and durability of a proper gun to the convenience of a single use spray can. At this point in time we have at least 3 full restoration future tractor projects and several implement projects. It's certainly possible we will set up a gun for the sheet metal of those at the least.

Got a little Onan detailing done today. Swore to myself I wasn't gonna do this. The before... and the after. Shame, once in place, it'll never be seen.

Yeah… we couldn’t figure that out either. We checked at the Humane Society, the County Animal Shelter, and Facebook, but nobody had reported him missing. The county said we had to wait a week to see if anybody claimed him (with proof of ownership), and if not we could adopt him. He was house trained, walked on a leash fine, and knew a few words/ commands. We absolutely fell for him instantly. He is a needy little boy, but we need him, and he needs us !

If it were not restored, I would consider it. Most of the fun is gone out of it now.

Thankfully i have had a like new spare hanging on a hook since 2005, im back up and going and good time to luve the pto bell. Easy 10 minute fix.

No one in their right mind would go to all this trouble for a tractor that was going to be used for mowing, plowing, hauling, snow removal, and general property up keep. I may start that next week. One tip I forgot to mention above. I would not bring it up, but I think it's important. This is probably obvious to the seasoned painters, but not to me. It took me a while to catch on. If you are going to set up a spray booth, or simply paint in an enclosed place, with some type of an exhaust fan. Start at the front, and work your way towards the fans. All the mist (or a lot of it) will be drawn to the front, and cover your newly painted pieces otherwise. It will look like over spray. This seems to be worse when using a gun with a wide fan pattern.

Id love to see some pics of how you built the fork lift for the wheel Horse, dang handy dandy

I follow this rule as well. Not all acrylic, urethane, etc are created using the same chemicals from one manufacturer to the next. Single stage enamels are not all the same. An acrylic enamel will have a much better shine and durability than a synthetic or strait enamel. If you wish to clear coat over a single stage paint. A - Let the paint cure at least a week. B - Wet sand the paint with 1200grit sand paper, take care not to sand through the paint any where. C - Wipe clean with prepsol cleaner/solvent made to final wash paint or primer. Do not use acetone or any type of reducer. D - Wipe clean with a tack cloth E - Apply your clear. Dupli-Color makes an inexpensive prepsol for final wash before painting. Available at most auto parts stores. Wet a rag with it and wipe it on then wipe it off with a dry rag. https://www.amazon.com/VHT-CM541-Grease-Wax-Remover/dp/B00QSP0PDI/ref=asc_df_B00QSP0PDI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241952584952&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1912435607415140936&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018822&hvtargid=pla-568989220510&psc=1 Very good write up. I'm glad that you stressed wearing a respirator, we should all do this even when using a spray can. Keep up the good work.

Looks nice...did not bolt up. I had to disassemble the sliders and droll a hole 7" from the other to use the 7 on 7 pattern..but its on now using stock springs and sliders

Hello, new member here. My name is Mark and i'm from the Netherlands. The tractor virus is running in my blood since I was a little kid. I have a few hundred 1/32 and some 1/16th scale model tractors. And since a few weeks my second garden tractor. Stumbled upon this goldmine of a forum after purchasing a Wheel horse 512-D with sweeper recently. Only after buying I found out that these tractors are not too common with the Robin diesel engine. I've already scrolled through several threads and many beautiful pictures. Hoping to learn a lot and maybe add a little of my own knowledge here and there. Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

So that’s what squeaks in them curds… it’s the chip…! Man I must be tracked by 16 gubment agencies by now… all the curds I’ve eaten…

With as many leaves as you have I would recommend piling them on the garden area in the fall and tilling them in… basically sheet composting… As far as new “fill”, do you have a local source for manure and topsoil? I’d go with a combination if you have such access…

Yes today I have 3 clearly marked pump sprayers. One that kills plants and trees One that kills bugs One that applies liquid fertilizers and healthy things for plants

Money wise no. They go from $20.00 up to around $40.00 when found. Still relatively scarce since it is not like one will find them all the time. Many will be missing the bit and many will have chuck mechanism broken. They are historically important. If one thinks about it they are really the first “mechanized” way to drive a screw. Everything else came after and for many years all borrowed on that principle until electrical drills started being used for that. The draw back it had it was that screw could not be reversed. That was essentially its demise when North Brothers came up with the better design we know as the Yankee Screwdriver which could reverse , be locked from any direction and also spring loaded for the next stroke. The “Yankee” name stuck when Yankee bought them out and produced them by the millions. Constant evolution of these things also eventually rendered them obsolete (not everywhere). I wonder when and how the screw will eventually also meet its demise. Nice find . A great conversation piece to be placed on coffee table.

One con would be finding one, although they can be found. (I'm in PA) My family has a total of 3 520XI's and Dad has a SS blower that works like mine on my 416H. The XI is a very nice sturdy machine no matter what some purists may say about it not being a Wheel Horse. That being said, the foot control is a bit awkward although I have gotten used to it quickly when I use them. Jd has a great set up with their foot control on my x530. It's hard to beat, but I actually prefer using my WH's unless I'm using the bagger. (I can't seem to find a power bagger for a WH 48" deck) There must be something about knowing I could run into a tree and only dent a WH and my X530 would break the plastic hood that would cost more to replace than my entire 416 set up.

Rattle can vs Spray gun, I think it comes down to what your going far. An out the factory restoration paint job or nice looking paint job that will protect a worker for another 25 years. If your going to use the tractor then shake, rattle and spray .

Majic paint sucks. Literal garbage in a can. Forrest Gump would call it a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna get... Rust-Oleum paint has good coverage, consistent colors, and dries in a few hours. Use with hardener and it approaches automotive quality. And... It resists rust!

There is no way that I would release the clamping without the two halves bolted together. If the halves spring open even a little, the sealant will no longer work. I drill thru both halves and use stainless steel screws, washers and locknuts. Tapping the aluminum may be OK, but that cast metal isn't as strong as bolting thru. So everyone knows, those "rivets" are simply protrusions from the one half, not a separate fastener.

It is an "Archimedian" screw driver. Without a doubt manufactured by AH Reid from Philadelphia who owned the patent on it from 1882. Should be stamped on the screw casing. Many times stamp is very faint barely noticeable on early models. It was advertised as "Reid's Lightning Brace". It was also supposed to be used as a drill. Two models were available differing in size and bit holding method which made bits non interchangeable. The one you have is the #1 model which is the largest one. Quite a few of them were made until the better design from North Borthers was introduced, now nick named "Yankee screwdriver"

I add the cheapo digital voltmeters on most of my tractors. When running, if I see 14+vdc, I know I'm good. 12.5+vdc or less, I'm on borrowed time. The pic below is battery voltage before cranking.

A decade ago I witnessed what would be a two man baseball game with a cameo apperance of a 100mph fastball pitcher. Most people attend a professional game as a social event but I imagine being part of the game. But with my team losing from the get go I figured the trivial socializing could be more memorable than this game. With one eye on the game I didn't miss a play, just the impact they contributed to the game. I knew Vinny had a homer or two so my good sense rewarded me seeing him smash another long ball. When you're hot you're hot and at the crack of the bat Brian Giles ran to the wall only to run out of real estate. His timing was perfect as he leaped and robbed Vinny in the 4th inning. All eyes are now on Vinny and later he makes good his 3rd homer of the game. At the top of the ninth he has a chance for a record 4 but strikes out. It' 8-2 and the Pirate's last at bats produce a ralley for a couple runs but also a couple outs. Houston calls their ace reliever Billy Wagner to end the game but Jason Kendall who is not shy to take a hit by pitch is now the tying run. Giles is next and Wagner intends to strike him out as he did in their only other face off. But Giles is waiting for his fast ball and the first pitch is good for a Brian Giles game winning Grand Slam. ( If I'm not the last to learn how to enlarge, right click image and copy in new tab, then enlarge ) When I was searching for the appropriate cards, the last stood out because it was the newspaper photo which in turn became a baseball card. Who knew...not me

I'll agree with @SylvanLakeWH about adding leaves. We had a 40' x 50' garden when we lived in Bowling Green. Soil was heavy reddish clay. We burned our yaed waste in the garden every fall and added a couple of pickup truck loads of leaves every winter. Turned them under in the spring. 8 or 9 years later, the soil was more of a dark reddish brown. We grew tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, squash, corn, onions, okra (ugh!), and cantelope at various times.

Oh yeah Sylvia... they got it down to such an science that the vet just scans the chip and can bring up all the info on the pet. Dogs, cats, birds, lizards....you name it. Tell ya who owns it , where it came from, vaccinations....we is gonna have you chipped someday so as to know where you been and how many beers you had when you wandered off. Hosen too so we know if his blood loss hits critical....

I don't have a dog in this hunt. I'm not looking for anything. If I wanted a plow on a tractor, I would choose one of my hydros.

So the fun is working on it…???… interesting…

Eric, I recruited the best of the best to wish you a belated happy birthday. You can disregard one or the other or both and accept my Belated Happy Birthday Wishes .

Yes it's the same relay. The probably put the plastic cover on different. The circuitry and terminals are the same. Look at the white base. THere should be numbers to tell which blade is what numbered terminal.

NAPA KNOW-HOW !!!

Does it look like this? You can find it in many cars in a junkyard. Common relay. Or any auto parts store. Napa # AR204

Never used and xi but i know i dont like the 520 classic series at all, very akward. Pain in the @$$! To work on. So maybe this will work to my advantage.

Bad habit- I know... I painted a hood years back when TSC stopped carrying Valspar. Two cans of the same color came out two different colors. Not even close! The hood was still sticky a week later. Really bad experience!

Not a bad idea to have multiple sprayers! One that kills stuff. One that makes stuff grow. Maybe one more for stuff like Neem oil and fungicides and stuff.

While your in there clean up any dirt / corrosion on the ignition switch and plug.

They are designed to use full travel with no ill effects. Unless you had a need for variable "max" travel, I recommend getting only as long an actuator as you will use and using its full travel.

There's a build thread on here somewhere Mike... @Sparky has an old square hood with a Magnum 8 horse. Good little tractor. You'll like that.

You can never be too sure! Haha

I am slowly experimenting with blasting. I bought a small portable unit, no cabinet, to try out. Yesterday I had my wife pick up some coarser media in the "big city". Later today I am going to try that out on some wheels. Predicted high today, 70F Dec 15 in northern IL. I can live with that.

Then a sandblast cabinet would have paid itself back. I payed 310€ for mine, installed it yesterday, can't wait to test it out. Waiting on outside temperatures to climb to the 50°. Here in Belgium it's around 20€/22.53$ a pop, a spraygun paintjob is cheaper if you need to do a complete Wheel Horse. Planning of doing my first restauration starting in February on my C141D

What about something like this mounted to the front tach a matic? Just throwing stuff out there Add a mechanical stop to the top as a winch tends to drift after cutting power. Down wouldn't matter with a chain. Those cheapie $85 winches come with a remote hand switch that could be converted to a toe/foot switch fairly easy

RED-Z06: I didn't realize you were in Pensacola. My 7 year old son is from there. He was our little souvenir... In all seriousness- we are Blue Angel fans. No better place on earth to watch the show!

Ok, ok, I won’t burn it!

Like this!

I just bought this one. Still in the box but looks comfy.