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I cleaned up the wheels that @pullstart sent. Boy, are they pretty! Just waiting for the new rear tires to come in so I can take the bundle to the tire shop to be mounted. Rosie's gonna have new kicks! Assessed the plow and ordered some parts to get the pivot handle working properly. Took another look at that tiny stack, and it is round at the base. Need to locate some exhaust pipe and extend that baby, so I can breathe the fresh country air while I drive my tractor in the sunshine.

One of my favorite tractors wheel horse ever made... the 417-8 (series 2 of course) for some reason I just love this model of tractor.. I’ve owned quite a few but this one will be fully restored hopefully in time for the big show this summer!

Able to bring home a nice pair of horses, C-111 and C-161 gear drive. The 161 has a neat Honda powered TracVac that hooks onto to a custom steel bracket attached to the rear axle. Both came from the original owner, garage kept and in great shape! Selling the 111 (currently posted in Classified section if anyone is interested) and going to try mowing our 3 acres of grass up at camp with the 161. I mowed it last year with my 141 hydro 42" but eager to try the gear drive setup on the 161 with the 48" deck. If anyone is interested in the 111 feel free to reach out, I'm open to offers! Take care

Got my fuel tank in started mocking that up, raining outside so no real work can be done, but got some rubber metal trim in so put some of that on, and along the hood where it latches now my shifter doesn't bang off the edges of the console, and my hood clamps down snug!

Did today the first real Mowing this year. before i checked all things if they will be ok, than i regreased the Gears on the mowerdeck than i started the Horse. Man, i love that Predator Engine with it‘s differently HP value. I believe the 9 HP could be real, because it has a great punch ( torque) above 1800RPM and run like a Boss. If the load on the Engine increases with the Mowerdeck it grunts little louder (92dB A) but it is still a nice mellow Sound. If the throttle will increased, the engine revs quick up and the mowerdeck sounds like a Roots, what a wonderful Music. Than i mowed half of my Areal with 2200RPM what was the same result like the 6HP Tecky. The other half i mowed with 2750RPM - haha, boy that‘s pure Fun. 2. gear and yeeeeeeehaaaaaaw. ok, the pure mowingtime goes down because of the changed bigger Engine Pulley resulting in a higher workspeed, but hey - more time for a Funride after.. 😎 To reducing the mess on the Gearbox with cutted Grass i had last year, i tried a Trick. I built an complete Endcap for the mowerdeck with a two 100mm Air nozzles they blow the grass directed between the rear Tyres out. additionally i opened the right Aircover. My result was absolutely no grasscut in the Gearbox where the Shifterstick is anymore, even the Brakeband and the Axles is completely free of grasscut. After mowing i stopped the Engine to see how many Grass sticks between the nozzles or in the Deck if it is more than before. Not more than before, just a little on the Top and in the edges on the Mowerdeck. Seems my Idea with the two nozzles to direct the grasscut aside the Gearbox works much better than i feared. - Success.

Not like I need it, but a very reasonable priced GT14 popped on CL last night. I emailed after 32 minutes of it being posted, the only communication method offered. I have yet to hear back, but still have hope!

An hour meter is only a problem when you go to sell it. If you want to keep track of your engine's hours, put a new one in and start from zero. If you decide to sell, tell the buyer that the tractor has XXX hours, plus what ever is on the meter, which is what is on the engine. I would rather have a tractor with high hours and good maintenance that a tractor with low hours and bad or no maintenance.

hmmm, fight with breaking the beads of 40 yr old tires or pay a little to have the tire shop do it (leaning towards the latter)

@ebinmaine remove @pullstarttoes when he uses it with his flip flops.

Today we installed the brake lining that I received in the mail yesterday from @rmaynard. Our brake band has rivets and the lining has relief spots to allow for a great fit. Nice product Bob! The eBay purchase was easy and had fast shipping. We are almost ready to take on a test drive. Just have to finish the rear fender and mount the seat.

Here's a plow I'm picking up down the road for free even got to look for brackets and swivel arm

New decal set came in. Got the left side C-160 badge and WH bar on. All the decals on the right side came off during pressure washing. Should make a big improvement.

Been rather busy with yard work but also started planting flowers inside.

Points are the trigger for your ignition system. You have a coil with a primary circuit and winding. Current flows thru this circuit thru the points to ground completing the circuit. When the points open the current stops. This causes a magnetic field in the coil to collapse inducing a high voltage surge into your coils secondary winding thru your spark plug wire and then it sparks across the gap in your spark plug. This fires you engine. The points run off a push rod on your camshaft and need to be gapped to open at the correct time.

They show using it to rake and clear land with it on their web site. I didn’t see anything about toenails but I guess you could get creative.

What's that sucker supposed to do? Other than terrorize neighborhood children I mean.

I went to change out the front axle pin on my C-160. I have had this tractor for about 12 yrs. and put about 250 hrs. on it imagine my surprise when I found out the retaining bolt was gone! Threads are ok and I put a bolt in.

My vote is to put a new hour meter in it with a sticker under the hood somewhere saying that the tractor has at least 750 more hours than the engine. That would be a reminder to you and information for any potential future owner. Bill

Those are both projects but look like they are complete. The second one having the PTO and three point hitch is quite hard to find. The "D" is a bit more complicated to work on than your "C" but well worth the investment for your farm. When do you plan to pick them up?

Happy Birthday Russ, we are all glad you were born!

I don't know if Eb is a bear or catholic but either way he can crap in the woods.....

You can have the privvy and you sweet talk @JCM he might plumb it for a shower... Dan come over tonite and we got two running and driving,,,, C-165 cuts a nice head of lawn!

Woke up this morning to a broken refrigerator. The freezer was still below freezing, about 25° (normally 0-10) and the fridge was around 45° (normally 35-40), The compressor was trying to start every minute or so but it could not / did not. I thought, probably the starting cap. I have several in my junque boxe (sometimes it pays to hoard!). Swapped it out... nope. OK, must be the start relay. YUP! popped the cover off the side of the compressor and out fell the burnt charred remains of the relay. It's an OLD fridge! The relay is no longer available. What to do... I was able to salvage enough of the old relay to make a 'plug' onto which I soldered a couple wires, one for the RUN and one for the START. With a couple well placed clip leads I was able to start and run the compressor. I put on my McGyver cap and set to designing my own start relay with parts from my junque boxe. I had a P&B KRPA DPDT relay and socket with 120V coil. Of course I've got gobs of resistors and capacitors and diodes and transistors and yes, even VACUUM TUBES! So I rigged up a circuit that would 'pulse' the relay for about a half second and release it. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Here it is before I cleaned it all up, got rid of the clip leads, applied heat shrink tubing and electrical tape and put it inside a small metal enclosure to tuck inside the control area: The whole ordeal took most of the day designing, prototyping, finalizing. Basically I rectified the 120V RUN signal, filtered with the caps on the right, fed the resulting DC in SERIES with the silver starting cap (12 MFD) to the relay coil. When the RUN signal goes high, the rectified DC sends a pulse through the silver capacitor and the coil pulls in. Once the cap is charged, no more current flow, the relay drops out. The resistors you see serve to discharge the capacitor after the relay drops out so it's ready for the next cycle. It was a fun exercise and took my mind off feeling 'punky' after my 2nd Moderna yesterday. Wife still wants a new fridge and that's fine. I said you can get your fridge if I can get the driveway paved. She said FINE! GO AHEAD! No more worry about rocks in the snow thrower! Easy to plow! At least now she can shop at her leisure for exactly what she wants. Started as a bad day, ended as a very good one!

Have you ever tried to call ahead to check inventory at Walmart? Lots of luck.

I don't even lean. I throw them in the truck, and drive.

That is going to be a BEAUTIFUL tractor.

That was the reason I drilled and tapped the front of the pin on Putt Putt. It kept dropping the front end at random, but I couldn’t keep a 5/16” bolt in that hole.

Broke out the spray gun and shot a coat of red over the primer. Doesn't have to be anything special for this working trailer.

A disadvantage of having owned a tractor for many years especially after the tranny was overhauled is you can't blame the Previous owner for grinding down the parking pawl

If you have a voltmeter. With key on you should have 12 volts at the coil " +" If you do Then move to the coil "- " Take out the spark plug. Turn the engine clockwise flywheel side by hand. You should have 0 volts at the meter most of the time while you are turning the engine. ( Point's closed ) Keep turning the engine. When the points open you will get 12volts on your meter. Keep turning the engine. The meter should go back to 0 volts when the points close again. If the meter never reads 12 volts the points aren't opening or are so dirty the electricity is traveling thru the gunk. If the meter reads 12volts all the time, the points aren't closing or are corroded enough electricity can't get to ground thru the points or the points bracket itself isn't grounded. Same thing with a 12volt test light. The light should be off most of the time the motor is turning. And light up briefly when the points open.

You will get nothing from the Coil tower terminal to either side. The center is a separate winding. Napa # IC 14 Solenoid Napa # St 82

You could do what I am planning to do on the speedo on my 1984 El Camino. I am replacing all instruments on my dash. I am going to take pictures of the speedo , sign and date and keep the old speedo to be sold with the El . Proof of mileage.

Three point hitch is a great thing. Just be aware the rear PTO is sort of unique it will not run standard 540 or 1000 implements you are pretty much limited to a couple WH specific things.)

So anyhoo we put the sniffin salts to the Briggs and notices the air cleaner was full of oil.... oh oh. turns out was way over filled with oil but the oil looked fairly fresh and gas smelt normal so guessing she was run not too long ago. New air filter on her. Hydro seemed strong yet. Dan notices the B'hood is made of fiberglass and just a few small cracks in the fender pan. She needs a bath tho. On to the C-121.... she was abit more cranky but again new air filter, new oil in her and a what looks to be a new plastic style fuel pump. Once we got her running sounded like a solid K301 and good hydro. This tractor would be a beast if it had hydraulic lift which could be added. Look for both tractors to be in classifieds soon somebody is gonna get a deal.

I'd say it's up to you as long as it isn't used to try to pass it off as a low hour machine. My situation was different. I put a new K341 on the 76 I purchased new. It never had an hourmeter. A couple years ago I finally saw the need to put a freshly rebuilt K341 on it. At that point I installed an hourmeter. It was easy for me. The tractor hours? I have no clus but many. The hours on the motor? Whatever is on the meter.

I think she wants to become a member of the dysfunctional D family!

Its a saying EB .....does the pope poop in the woods??? Is a bear catholic?!?!? or somethin like that...

I'm not familiar with that model but if the pins on #39 are still good, how about drilling the holes in the spindles #7 larger and install bushings? Heim joint #17 Tighten the fan gear on #13 to the steering shaft gear on #23 by adding shim(s) like #14 - 15 #54 looks like a bushing too to inspect that and replace if necessary Like most WH tractors it's combination of all the worn parts that add up until the slop of the steering is bad so going through it all to figure it out will tighten it up. Worn axle holes can be drilled to 7/8" and bushed for the spindles. Burning belts is from slipping so tension would be the first thing. If they're being chewed up then there is another issue with something rubbing

In door crapper would be nice too.

Got my new to me original 401 out for a spin and a few pictures. Put a new fuel bowl on,diamond treads and fairbanks recoil. Runs like a top no smoke or unusual noise.

Front receiver mount is complete. It came together real nice and now my vision for carrying all the yard tools for trail clearing is complete. With the MoJack tool rack mounted Ready for work Scope of work. All that overgrowth needs to be cut out, and this is just one of many projects. Gonna be busy this summer.

Brought home another Horse Sunday. Picked up a 1998 520Lxi with a real nice 60" deck. Kawasaki "FD620D" 20hp engine (water cooled) has some problems: bad oil leak from the left rocker box cover, needs a new governor spring and reset the mechanical governor arm adjustment. I spent today on-line searching for engine info and found the governor adj. info, as well as the parts & service manuals right here on Red Square. The 60" deck sound like it needs some bearing work, but it's solid. I got the original tractor & deck manuals and sales tickets for its repairs. It had a new PTO clutch installed in 2014. Lots of bells & whistles, tilt wheel, cruise control power hydraulic steering, foot speed control, I'm impressed. I've been cutting grass for years with a 1989 520H and I thought it was great. I need some help with a couple things: I've searched all over the engine for the S/N tag/info. Can someone enlighten me to where the engine numbers are, or where they should be? I'd appreciate good or bad comments on this tractor. It has all the good Wheel Horse quality features, cast front & rear axles, attach-a-matic mounts, etc. Cost was $1K. Thanks Bill

I found a driveway find 1981 Ford F250 Diesel with many of the "go to Town" options. in real nice shape, but it was a no start no crank truck that is very nice for a northern truck. not knowing a thing about these trucks, i put two new- ish batteries in Still no crank no start. Put two new batteries in that will crank over a 5.9 Cummins with authority. No crank no start. I finally shorted the firewall solenoid. Got crank and no fuel.at the high pressure fuel pump, but the fuel flooded the fuel filter. Nice So I reasoned that the start circuit and possibly whatever thingamabopper whirlymagoo that shut off/turned on the fuel was not working.After researching for hours, I kept coming up with broken pot metal linkage inside the steering column that operated the ignigtion/start switch under the dash board and mounted to the steering column. It wasn't that, but the switch itself needs replaced. The batteries are a little low and am charging them up, but after installing the switch, there is fuel going to the injectors. Woo Hoo!! This may be an old truck without a turbo, but without a computer [I think] has me pretty excited. My next trip should be a success with four batteries to get it started. You just can't figure this kind of stuff out on new equipment.

He is thank you .... PM me your addy I'll get them right out.

What I am not doing is mowing today....

Wheel Horse did not use any gasket cement, and if everything is clean, you shouldn't either. I don't even soak them in oil, just tighten the bolts evenly. I have not had a leak yet. And yes, you want to put the same oil in that came out.

I have a good amount of D stuff, just in case you are already addicted. See it is a religion, and I'm a Temple builder. I just acquired a D-160 myself, in case your competitive, I'll drive for tractors, because I am.

Got a little more done on the wife’s “2054”. Since the frame is a gt14 frame, I needed to use the gt14 foot plates (already drilled for the frame) but want them to look like the correct step. So I sliced and diced a set of gt14 steps to the correct size. I will weld the tail piece that bolts to the front of the fender later, after I get the fender pan mounted solid. Starting to look like I’m actually getting somewhere.