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Did some fine tuning on the sweet 16 today. All the adjustments needed to make it all come back together.!

Got a little time this afternoon to get a little work done on the Lawn Ranger. Got the front spindles on (new ones from A-Z) with new 6" front wheels and tires. Got the rear wheels off and the new ones on. 8-1/2" neutral offset wheels, with 18-9.5×8" Superlug tires. Wisconsin parts are coming in, got some new throttle linkage parts, head gasket, points, condenser, S/G belt, and a couple other little things. Still have to figure out a throttle and choke cable. The Wisconsin Amp Meter and Start Button bolted right into the old holes in the WH tank and center column. I know she's not the prettiest thing, but should be pretty fun once its completed. I need to re-make a tool box, as the clearance between the rear tires has shrunk. The old box is 14" wide, and i only have 12" between the tires (old skinny tires had 17" clear space). I have Steering Wheel coming from @76c12091520h and a new drag link for the steering. Should pretty it up at least a little. And I do plan on running a Jim Kemp stack, this one was borrowed off my Commando 8-8 for test fitting.

Cleaning up the old Power King.

This manual will give something to work from. If in doubt you could replace the switch and clean the terminals that connect to it. Take a look at other electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight too. I would remove the fenders and the cover for the tunnel where the shifter so you can clean up whatever is in there, you will be amazed at how much junk accumulates there. removing the engine tins to clean the cooling fins is a good idea too. If you run into any problems give us a shout.

New fuel lines...

Start it, run it forward and backwards, operate the lift up and down. Stop the engine and recheck.

Agree with pulling the engine tins off. Not a bad idea to expose the cooling fins to clean them on the hydro too. Especially if the machine ever ran a rear discharge deck. I like to add inline filters so I can see what a going on with fuel delivery. Other than that, do the maintenance and ride!

Hi, my name is Brian, I'm new to Red Square not sure if I'm doing this in the right place. With that being said, I was wondering if there is a way to check a Wheel Horse for matching serial numbers, like the way it can be done with cars, I have a '77 C-160 that I got from my dads estate, I have owned it since the late '90's, not sure when or where he bought it. I think it has most if not all the original factory parts still on it and was wondering if there is a list from W.H. that would tell me if it is all factory original. just starting to get it back in shape and finding all these numbers, the plow, mower deck, transmission, tractor the motor all have serial numbers, just a curiosity on my part to know what I have.

Pull the breather to clean and inspect it, if a previous owner assembled it poorly that could be the problem. Check the compression to see if the basic engine is healthy. Hold the air filter element up to a light and see if it is clogged, a restrictive air filter will cause a vacuum.

Leaf Duty here

Decided to come down here to the shop to sit with the lights out and the door is open and listen to it rain and thunder. Of course I am surrounded by my heard. Side by Side! How sweet it is!! IMG_9039.MOV

My apology to the group and BAM1. Where do I send the fine for posting WRONG INFO. When I get it wrong,...it's REALLY wrong.

I made an old MTD snow blade (square peg) fit on this Raider 10 with Tecumseh HH100 (round hole) by fabbing a bracket to mount it on until I find the proper wheel horse blade. I have changed the oil, gas filter, and transmission oil and tires. Put a rebuild on the LME 29 carb but still seems a little sketchy. I put a new spark plug in it and it felt a little "off" going in and felt like it wouldn't get completely tight, like it was stripped. Started it up and it ran for 5 seconds and blew the spark plug 20 feet out into the driveway. Oh man, that sucked. So I put the old plug back in, it seemed to go in fine and snugged right up. Don't know what's going on there, now I'm scared to try and change it again. Right now it runs pretty good. Seems to have a slight miss, can't tell if it's the carb or plug. Have started running seafoam in the gas. Hope it snows tomorrow.

This horse followed me home today! I think its in good shape even though its ready for a good maintenance rundown. Came with a 48" deck that needs some maintenance as well. One question: The previous owner said the ignition switch has a bad connection and will vibrate off? Is this a known problem? Should I search for a new switch or can I clean it up or do you think its a wiring issue? I plan to change: Oil Air filter Transmission oil and filter Spark plugs Grease as per manual Battery terminals have some corrosion It might have a transmission leak. Going to have to clean things up and take a closer look. Anything that you would do before I put it into service? I will spend a week or two fixing things then store it for the winter.

We'll need to see the coil to really know.. they had THREE ignitions on that model. Magneto usually is a 1968, SSI and battery/electric seem to switch around together in 69-70. Manual clutch is wrong. The original electric likely failed and this was the standard repair process, as both then and now, an electric PTO was rather expensive. Manual is better on the implements anyway.. If you see no coils at all and the plug wire goes behind the shroud, thats a magneto. A short, squared looking coil is the SSI, and a generic round 3 wire coil is a points fired battery ignition.

Should I put an in-line fuel filter in?

Thanks this is kind of what I was looking for, it was just for pure curiosity, and maybe bragging rights if/when I do get it redone.

I did that once and I had a garage full of chickens, ducks and peacocks! And I live in town!

You just rebuilt an engine on a restored tractor. Make sure you have good grounds. You may have paint somewhere creating a bad ground.

Heres just some pics of him riding it before it broke down. When we get it fixed I'll post a video of it and see how it runs and how fast it is!

If I did that the garage would be full of toads...

I like it.

I intentionally went with wider, neutral offset wheels. I wanted fatter tires on the back without making the tractor much wider overall. The width only grew by about 3" total (30" now vs 27" stock).

See my edit above. I really hate this phone, I usually use a laptop. The diagram shows I & G terminals on the meter, do you have the positive on the I terminal?

I haven’t seen reference to the c-series heavy front end kit in a long time. Used to be a common discussion topic 20 years ago. It was a great value and came with two reinforced spindles as shown above and a new set of tires mounted on wheels. I think it was priced cheaper than just buying two tires. It was available for a long time. I’ve seen them with both linen beige and silver painted wheels. Always intended for when a tractor was equipped with a loader. I bet there are still a bunch of these kits on old dealer shelves. The d-series axle kit is interesting too. The 1973 18-automatic and the earliest D’s used 3/4” spindles and front wheels. They were marginal for such a portly machine so were upgraded in ‘74/‘75...don’t remember exactly. The kit you have was the factory retrofit kit to fix the marginal design. I don’t think there was a “recall” for the upgrade, but I am pretty sure I recall the upgrade being free to customers that had a problem. The difference between 3/4” and 1” doesn’t seem like much, but it represents about a 78% boost in load capacity for the front axle and wheels. it isn’t unheard of for front spindles to bend severely and even snap off on the early D’s. I knew of one that broke while mowing when the front wheel of the 18-auto hit a Small rut. Wheel snapped right off cleanly. putting a loader or snow thrower on a 3/4” spindle D is a gamble. I know they have their followers, but I’m not a fan of the D-auto series. They were physically big, but didn’t really bring much to the table in capability compared to the C-series. regardless, you’ve got a neat find there. steve

Pressure washing this today to get ready for sanding

The beginning of the disposable car. My father had a 61 Falcon with the 200 cid, 3 on the tree, round trip to work and home 144 miles, I had just turned 16 when he retired and often used the car for dates. Ya gotta know the girl your dating likes you when the ride your using reeks of cigar smoke and she accepts a second date. I drove them both hard. Tuff little car and she married someone else.

old work horse, returning from my sons in VT , we followed a dump truck that had the entire rear square of the dump bed as a break light/ flasher set up , just a little bigger than yours , could not miss it , pete

Nice job on the fab work! And

Very nice. Almost to pretty to use.

I’ll clean a deck once a year, in the fall and coat it with slip plate.

Spent some time with the 551 dialing in the carb, got her purring like a kitten now! I am actually really impressed with 5 horse Lauson runs and sounds good

Some times a freshly painted tractor and engine will need to be roughed up a bit to work. Some star washers on the ground wire and on the S/G bolts will help complete the electrical circuit. Is the ignition switch rated for 70 amps? If not the S/G will cause the switch to fail unless a solenoid is added. A 103-990 switch is used in this drawing.

@Tractorhead Send some pictures , then we can tell you to go buy it. automatic or manual transmission.

I was going through some old postings of mine recently and I wondered where Dennis was at. Well, he's back! My uncle was into the old Bolens GTs for a time. He had a few with some large Kohler twins on them. I always thought the tube frames were pretty cool.

Changed the seal on the other side. It could have waited, but in surprise the hub came off within minutes. The other side took hours.

So where do these stairs go TO? Bulkhead? Into the hallway next to the bedroom?

Just get you a Trina and tell her it's part of her martial arts training.

Got you a couple of calendar shots there

I say, “build it”—“drive it like you stole it”—if it breaks, build it stronger. You have nothing to lose... of course unless it breaks when you are doing about 25mph and you hit a tree...😬 make sure you have an updated steering system

My 97 416-8 and my 88 312-8 are the same tractor just different engines.

30w shell rottela . T1

Here we go again

Oil is cheap.. engines are not. I use that type of thing in my old one lungers, but .. perhaps its just old fashioned bias, I wouldn't use anything but a good brand name high zinc oil in these engines.

when my oldest kid was finally heavy enough to satisfy the seat safety switch he was able to cut grass with the tractor but one time he was moving fairly well - and the seat switch activated momentarily when he hit a bumpy part of the yard the tractor quit for a second - and then quickly resumed after a huge backfire the backfire scared him and he jumped off the tractor and ran into the house lol

Trina got the front axle bracket and the axle painted up. We installed the frame and its rear supports onto the adapter this morning. Also bolted the front bracket on with axle in place to verify position after I had welded in braces on both the frame and front support. Lines up nicely. I'll use the piece of 3/4 rod in the photo to make up an extended length axle pivot pin. Look looooong?? The wheel base is 9" longer than a standard C series. Adding the extra size of the tire diameter this machine will be 16" longer than stock.

Thats better! Heres the main worker- 520H, factory exhaust with a 1 3/4 stack added. LOVE the Onan snarl!

Screamin’ Jimmy is quieter than you would think he should be.