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Did some fine tuning on the sweet 16 today. All the adjustments needed to make it all come back together.!

Got a little time this afternoon to get a little work done on the Lawn Ranger. Got the front spindles on (new ones from A-Z) with new 6" front wheels and tires. Got the rear wheels off and the new ones on. 8-1/2" neutral offset wheels, with 18-9.5×8" Superlug tires. Wisconsin parts are coming in, got some new throttle linkage parts, head gasket, points, condenser, S/G belt, and a couple other little things. Still have to figure out a throttle and choke cable. The Wisconsin Amp Meter and Start Button bolted right into the old holes in the WH tank and center column. I know she's not the prettiest thing, but should be pretty fun once its completed. I need to re-make a tool box, as the clearance between the rear tires has shrunk. The old box is 14" wide, and i only have 12" between the tires (old skinny tires had 17" clear space). I have Steering Wheel coming from @76c12091520h and a new drag link for the steering. Should pretty it up at least a little. And I do plan on running a Jim Kemp stack, this one was borrowed off my Commando 8-8 for test fitting.

Cleaning up the old Power King.

This manual will give something to work from. If in doubt you could replace the switch and clean the terminals that connect to it. Take a look at other electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight too. I would remove the fenders and the cover for the tunnel where the shifter so you can clean up whatever is in there, you will be amazed at how much junk accumulates there. removing the engine tins to clean the cooling fins is a good idea too. If you run into any problems give us a shout.

New fuel lines...

Start it, run it forward and backwards, operate the lift up and down. Stop the engine and recheck.

Agree with pulling the engine tins off. Not a bad idea to expose the cooling fins to clean them on the hydro too. Especially if the machine ever ran a rear discharge deck. I like to add inline filters so I can see what a going on with fuel delivery. Other than that, do the maintenance and ride!

Hi, my name is Brian, I'm new to Red Square not sure if I'm doing this in the right place. With that being said, I was wondering if there is a way to check a Wheel Horse for matching serial numbers, like the way it can be done with cars, I have a '77 C-160 that I got from my dads estate, I have owned it since the late '90's, not sure when or where he bought it. I think it has most if not all the original factory parts still on it and was wondering if there is a list from W.H. that would tell me if it is all factory original. just starting to get it back in shape and finding all these numbers, the plow, mower deck, transmission, tractor the motor all have serial numbers, just a curiosity on my part to know what I have.

Pull the breather to clean and inspect it, if a previous owner assembled it poorly that could be the problem. Check the compression to see if the basic engine is healthy. Hold the air filter element up to a light and see if it is clogged, a restrictive air filter will cause a vacuum.

Leaf Duty here

Decided to come down here to the shop to sit with the lights out and the door is open and listen to it rain and thunder. Of course I am surrounded by my heard. Side by Side! How sweet it is!! IMG_9039.MOV

My apology to the group and BAM1. Where do I send the fine for posting WRONG INFO. When I get it wrong,...it's REALLY wrong.

I made an old MTD snow blade (square peg) fit on this Raider 10 with Tecumseh HH100 (round hole) by fabbing a bracket to mount it on until I find the proper wheel horse blade. I have changed the oil, gas filter, and transmission oil and tires. Put a rebuild on the LME 29 carb but still seems a little sketchy. I put a new spark plug in it and it felt a little "off" going in and felt like it wouldn't get completely tight, like it was stripped. Started it up and it ran for 5 seconds and blew the spark plug 20 feet out into the driveway. Oh man, that sucked. So I put the old plug back in, it seemed to go in fine and snugged right up. Don't know what's going on there, now I'm scared to try and change it again. Right now it runs pretty good. Seems to have a slight miss, can't tell if it's the carb or plug. Have started running seafoam in the gas. Hope it snows tomorrow.

This horse followed me home today! I think its in good shape even though its ready for a good maintenance rundown. Came with a 48" deck that needs some maintenance as well. One question: The previous owner said the ignition switch has a bad connection and will vibrate off? Is this a known problem? Should I search for a new switch or can I clean it up or do you think its a wiring issue? I plan to change: Oil Air filter Transmission oil and filter Spark plugs Grease as per manual Battery terminals have some corrosion It might have a transmission leak. Going to have to clean things up and take a closer look. Anything that you would do before I put it into service? I will spend a week or two fixing things then store it for the winter.

We'll need to see the coil to really know.. they had THREE ignitions on that model. Magneto usually is a 1968, SSI and battery/electric seem to switch around together in 69-70. Manual clutch is wrong. The original electric likely failed and this was the standard repair process, as both then and now, an electric PTO was rather expensive. Manual is better on the implements anyway.. If you see no coils at all and the plug wire goes behind the shroud, thats a magneto. A short, squared looking coil is the SSI, and a generic round 3 wire coil is a points fired battery ignition.

Should I put an in-line fuel filter in?

Thanks this is kind of what I was looking for, it was just for pure curiosity, and maybe bragging rights if/when I do get it redone.

I did that once and I had a garage full of chickens, ducks and peacocks! And I live in town!

You just rebuilt an engine on a restored tractor. Make sure you have good grounds. You may have paint somewhere creating a bad ground.

Heres just some pics of him riding it before it broke down. When we get it fixed I'll post a video of it and see how it runs and how fast it is!

If I did that the garage would be full of toads...

I like it.

And a 8 hp Kohler has got to be the easiest engine to get running. Seems like they all WANT to run.

Thank you to everyone on this forum for giving me the confidence to get this good old boy out of the dirt and running again this Truly shows nothing is impossible this was siting in my collapsed garage for 10 years in the rain and elements and it still started now I just need to get some new wheels and she’ll be running like new IMG_4936.MOV

Oh man I can feel your pain, Pros and cons of owning a 1 of a kind haha

Boys and girls I've next to no signal here in the mountains. We took a bunch of bunches of pics today. Well get em posted Sunday afternoon or Monday.

My Oreillys has a small selection of tractor parts that - usually! - has both switches, magneto & non for some $10-12. Also have - again usually! - fuel filters, solenoids, etc. I think most other auto store also carry a section on these. Sometime they follow walmart stocking policy and ----- dont keep up so well. Thats a nice looking horse you got there..........

Take a look at this old post, @Save Old Iron covers this in the fourth posting.

You just used your Newbie Good Luck Card. Limited one time use

An hour meter is simply an electric motor, connect 12 volts to it and the tenth digit should click up one digit every six minutes.

Yes that's how to test the meter

1977 Horsie original engine and trans model

The gas tank was changed to under the seat in 1978, The 1976 and 1977 was still under the hood. My 1977 the fender pan is bolted in place with the seat hinged.to fold forward.

As Mike said, paint is not known to be a good conductor of electricity. With the engine running take a small jumper wire and ground the "F" terminal of the S/G unit. The engine should labor a bit and voltage should go up to around 16 or 17.

Decrbonizing valves and replacing head & cylinder base gaskets in the wheeler's Rotax mill . Not fun at all .

neighbor had similar one at his place last year - but tad older he installed contemp mustang front suspension etc

I finally got my welder working so I could repair the front mounting plate for the seat pan. This part fastens to the transmission tunnel and on the three tractors I have that have the under seat fuel tank, the holes on the tunnel crack or break out. I used some bed frame angle in that the stuff is thicker than the tractor steel and is very tough. Still not satisfied, i took some furniture steel from a recliner and am in the process of mounting that to the rear seat pan/ fuel tank frame. i missed the alignment of the seat holes, got frustrated and quit for the day because now i have to grind off a weld. I will show the procedure on a separate repair thread because it is such a problem on the later machines with the thinner steel. That bed frame steel does not like cheap drill bits, and i finally got it drilled by sharpening some smaller bits and using a step drill to finish. I also had a 12 horsepower kohler cast iron that became very hard to start . i pulled the head and there was some coked deposits around the valves that had broken free. Methinks that some of that material caused the valves not to seal.I think that from now on, when I but a horse, it will be automatic proceedure to pull the head and check for valve adjustment and sealing and general condition.. Of my three last purchases that run, one of the c-145s has a .015 oversize piston that is not even broken in, and the other two need rebores at some point. I"ll be quiet now. That a lot of detail for just one day

Using up Vaca days. Took Thur And Fri off. Was hoping to work on the bolens ride a matic but the weather wasn't great. Got the 854 all cleaned up and the tuned the 551 carb. Some odds and ends around the house. Soccer tommorow with the oldest, working on the younger ones quad he snapped the steering shaft. See what the weather does. Everyone seems to be preparing tractors for winter storage. I like this time of year and do most of the running of the collection in October and November, til the snow. I really don't do much in the heat. Maybe I should summerize them instead. If the weather is nice take one of the mustangs out for ride

Here is a video I took from various places around the 520H with rear discharge deck while mowing around my barn. Enjoy!

Hesston Frontrunner 200. The story I got on it was the original owner’s wife was using it to mow and the fuel line from pump to carb split. Sprayed fuel on the engine and caught on fire. It burned until the wiring harness melted together and shut off the engine. Luckily the fire burnt out and did no more damage other than melting all the wiring. So hence the name “Blaze”. It was sold at a yard sale after the owner passed and bought by the guy I got it from. It has been in a barn since 2002. He has 12 more of them. Hope to get it going again soon.

Same frame. Difference is in the wheels, tires, axles, and obviously the engine.

If everything is connected correctly, remove washers if there are any or the tube may need to be shortened. Also your belt tension pulleys are on wrong. The belt goes through the pulleys on the bottom side of the loop only. The top of the belt loop is the drive side and should go directly to the driven pulley of the blower

Here is my 1976 d-160

@Greentored you love the sound, but don’t forget to mention “Love that shine on the 520!”

Frank’s got a nice bark. He needs a rebuild soon. The half of a C series muffler stuck in the bottom of the 3” pipe really lets it bellow.

I started on fabbing up the front axle. Some beads came out good. Others are ugly but functional like me. I've been mentally processing how to accomplish what I need for the front axle given the materials, skills, and tools I have. I decided that as much as I like the idea of having an axle that looks like one solid tube I just don't have the tools or skills to cut the angles required... Yet... So I went with a modified version of the step down plan. What I've come up with gives me the width at 40" or so after tire installation. The frame height addition is 4" plus the axle I used is 1" taller. (Not counting additional tire diameter). Also I put a forward sweep of 2" in the new piece. Total front frame lift will be about 8". I'll cap all 6 open ends and also the V notch where I put the sweep. Materials used were at least 1/8", maybe 10ga. I didn't confirm but there's plenty of meat there. Welding is all with the old Lincoln 225 AC set to 105 amps. 1/8" 7014 rods. Here's a pictorial. I cut a piece of 2" tubing 23" long and cut 3 sides, relief cut the fourth and hand bent it to a 2" V. Set the pieces in place and triple double checked where I was... Cleaned all the paint and mill scale off the metal and burned some rods. Here's where I was at yesterday at quitting time.