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I could hardly beleive it. I bought a JD 165 for 200 so I could get a 312-8 for 100 (no start, low compression, 50 psi). Deep cleaned the carb. new fuel lines and filter then listed on kijijji for 450. Within an hour had two people in a bid war and sold it for 525. Go figure!!!!!!!

Got the Gopher Terminator 14 out Had the perfect set up

I just got my ohio steel rollin today. Had to shorten it by 3 inches because of rust. Worked out fine. Thanx to @Vinylguy for these great decals! Still have to do something with the wheels and put a truck bed liner inside of it. But it is now moving!!

My third trip to West Virginia This year for Wheel Horse items takes place tomorrow! A tractor on the horizon with implements! Pics later tomorrow.

Pulled an engine for overhaul.

Some of you may know my close friend Janene and Christine Pierce from the big show every year. If you know me then they are a mother and daughter team that sets up in the corner of the one building and I help them sell parts and they have hood bushings. I am sad to report that Janene's daughter Christine passed away on Monday May 18 due to heart attack. It was a private service held today but Janene would appreciate any prayers sent her way. Janene is still head strong and plans to attend the show next year because it was a family thing every year and she will continue to be there. Thank You.

Got out today and cleaned out my front yard which is basically my woods. Sitting in front of my elephant grass which is finally starting to grow! IMG_7976.MOV

I have used hitch pins I buy at TSC for a rear wheel horse hitch . They are easily removed with handle and are smaller than 3/4 width for easy removal.

I’m a new wheel horse (84) owner. I’ve already learned a lot from your great site. Thanks 😊

Good job and great documentation. I always drill some holes in the case lugs to get the penetrant to the pin. then after the pin is removed, tap those holes for grease zerks. Like Jim, I also cut the pin off beside the lug and remove the hitch. I use a radiac wheel. Then I drill a 5/8" hole in the remaining pin stopping 1/4" before it breaks thru. The pin can then be driven out with a hardened drift inserted in the hole. By driving on the bottom of the hole, the pin is actually being pulled and stretched rather than being pushed and expanded. I always drill and drive from the right side so the force is against the thicker lug.

Wanted to share I got my new tires for the new to me 1976 D-160. I am super happy how they look! I went to my local Firestone they dealt with my late dad and have me since before i could drive legally. LOL The cost was $100 per back tire and $56 per front. Then I had them all tubed $13 for back tubes and $10 for the fronts. She is coming along. Now I have a maintenance guy i just found out yesterday him and his dad worked for onan and he is going to come over and smooth out my right piston and see if she will be ok to run after the work! I was so excited to find that out yesterday. He pulls garden tractors. He has a John Deere 400 like me but his is cranking out more ponies. He told me he found mine online and was using it to get his set up. So that was awesome. After he sees my wheelhorse maybe i can get him to get one LOL.

If you can rig a way to disengage the drive, you will only need one chair and rope. Let it run to the end of the yard disengage it and yank it back.

What you need Cas, is a chair at each end of the lawn. Something to hold the mower in drive. You can then set the mower off, run to the other end of the lawn and have a rest 'till the mower reaches you.

I picked this Agri-Fab broadcast spreader and dethatcher up yesterday for $80. Didn't get a pic of it in my mirror because you really couldn't see it, but it looks good hooked up to my 418-A. The seller was in the final prep for moving and had a "trash" pile going, so I also got a 5 gallon gas can, a 3/8" drive Black & Decker corded drill that works and various bug spray and fertilizer that I use around the outside of my house for free.

Those 165's are pretty much junk. You did well.

After 37 years the old girl dies not skip a beat. Not the same for the old boy chasing her. Beginning to have engine timing issues, a few misfires and ball joints are beginning to creak. I may need to have a carrot on a stick hanging out in front. And not one made by @stevasaurus

Now you tell me after I been doing it for years! Deep impacts added to my HF list!

So I've been fighting to remove the rear hitch pin from the '89 312-8 that I picked up last month. It apparently hasn't been removed in the last 30 years nor did it have grease applied prior to install. Needless to say it was corroded in place spectacularly. "Hammer time" didn't work, piped wrench didn't work, and both of those with heat didn't work. I've been spraying it down daily for the past 2 weeks with rust penetrant and today decided to go to Napa and get a external extractor set and use my impact gun with heat and rust penetrant and hope that would work. I was able to pry the spacers out of the way for more working room. It finally gave after about 20 minutes of hitting it with the impact, heat, and WD-40. Mind you it wasn't 20 minutes straight. There were some breaks with choice words being thrown at it while my little compressor that could caught up on air pressure. Lesson here is always keep that pin lubed with grease prior to install. I figured the hubs would be the issue, but the right side came off with relative ease with a puller. Left side will be next. (I had been spraying them down as well). Also, does anyone have a decent hitch pin that they would like to sell me. IMG_0432.mp4 IMG_0433.mp4 IMG_0436.mp4

I have one of these https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hitches-liftkits.html#!/Heavy-Duty-Removable-Receiver-Hitch-if-you-have-a-104659-Bracket/p/84960077/category=23548047 and one of these https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/brackets-linkages.html#!/Toro-Wheel-Horse-hitch-104659-SNOW-DOZER-BLADE-TILLER-BRACKET-W-O-Setup-Bar/p/84954561/category=23566571 Those are going on my 310-8 as well as a nice front blade I picked up last year. Also put new 23x8.50-12's on last year plus wheel horse weights, but I didn't paint the wheels. So, gonna paint all my wheels plus new tires on the front. The orange project on the welding bench in gonna be a mobile welding cart. Just got a good deal on some 5/16 plate. The 73 cub is going out back for awhile till I get some other things done. Thanks for asking @PeacemakerJack!! Randy

Not too much Changed the hydrostic filter and oil Greased the zerks. Installed the rear attachmatic, in prep for future rear winch. Fixed the lift cable for the brinley hitch.

To test third gear engagement, you need to be under full power. Many times people shift on the fly, wearing the edges off the third gear set. Other signals might be leaking axles seals or loose hubs. Everything is available new or used through vendors on this site so it shouldn’t be a deal breaker either way... just something to be aware of.

Front shot friday motorless

I think we now have a name for ethanol gas: Ca-Ca gas, thanks Mike .

Just a bit of correction if I may. If you turned 70-1/2 before the end of 2019, those rules applied. After 2019 the age is 72. Just one more thing to keep us seniors on our toes.

RUN if he could run to the other end of the lawn it wouldn't be a problem! I too have been experiencing too many parts that have not adjusted well to the ravages of age and abuse in my younger years. If I can't cut it while seated on my it gets to grow tall! Seems like gravity has gotten a lot stronger too, things are the same size as they were, but weigh substantially more than they did a few years ago.

Let's not also forget. These Genny's were built before the mass influx of electronics into our society. They were designed for outdoor work like running a drill,saw it even a small pump way out in the back 40

The puller you are using will probably bust a stuck hub, they are cast iron. Use the hub you have removed to make a puller. Contact Lowell for a new pin. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hitches-liftkits.html

pullstart - you lookin mighty aerodynamic - similar to an IMSA Daytona Prototype car

Ball joints creaking and misfired on the mower or the operator?

After pushing my luck and working it behind its means, it’s time to sort the niggles. As ingenious as the connection between front and rear is, there are a few issues. 1. The belts get wet and slip. 2. They get grass trapped in them 3. The axle tilt puts strain on the crossshaft. so time for a strip down and rethink... its been running for over five years, so not too bad. I think running with 1/2 ton in a trailer has taken it beyond its limit. fender off pulley full of grass 3 point removed. tomorrow I’ll split the two halves and work on a plan....

We got this little sign in our living room.... My wife says I never listen.... least that what I thought she said!

I have been using the M.E. Miller black tire paint (can be purchased from M.E. Miller) for over ten years now. When you have a good set of old Wheel Horse tires but they are still worth using you can use this Miller black tire paint to make them almost better looking than new! I have had a bottle of concentrated black (which they no longer sell) for ten years. I have used a couple dollops in a cottage cheese container with a few tablespoons of water on over forty tires. I have also given away several containers for people to use on redos. The proof is in the pudding folks. It works. A new bottle of the paint is $20 but well worth it. I posted picture of a dirty old rear Good Year tire from an RJ I bought and repainted twice for illustration of the outcome of painting with Miller Black Tire Paint.

Starting to paint the black

from quick google search basically - higher cut is better for multiple reasons (including reasons listed above by lynnmor) 1.5 " is min height for some types of grasses - but not recommended most (if not all) Wheel Horse decks will go lower than most owners desire to go - but not high enough for many owners ... many cut with adjustment in the highest position two common complaints : mower deck cutting height - not high enough .... and also the 2nd / 3rd gear ratios on the manual dual range transmissions - 2nd gear too slow and 3rd gear too fast (to cut) ... some other common complaints ... seats and tires only last 30+ years ... lol ...

Nice profit! That's the way to do it.

No , has a keyed shaft

Ernest there's a store on route 25 in Freedom New Hampshire that sells ethanol free gasoline 91 octane. Usually runs just below $4 per gallon. We burn that in all of our small engines and tractors. Sounds like you've got a couple things to address on your tractor but none of them are likely very serious. Please do post some pics when you can so we know what we're up against. We will get you back on track as soon as possible.

I haven't gotten to do much the last several weeks. I'm way behind on projects due to the Kung Flu, but at least I'm still working which is more than I can say for 62% of my coworkers. The down side is that last week I was presented with my 6th position that I am responsible for at work. But for the first time in several weeks I was able to steer clear of the rain and make some progress on some projects around the house. One of those is to haul in some topsoil, and I got to use the Horse a little bit to get that done. The dirt was wet, so I only got about half as much as I wanted for this truck load. Made three trips with the tractor and trailer around the house. Definitely better than the 10 or so trips with the wheelbarrow it took last time.

That's it Jimmy. Radiac...just a brand name that I use. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02389112

I'm with the Dino on this but up each by 500. That tractor is fine shape and would do wonders in the hands of a horseman who knows 520's...

Looks good!!! I don't know why but wouldn't mind having one of those, and a D250.

I don't know of an electronic ignition conversion (someone else will chime in), but what problems have you been having with your points? They're rarely problematic aside from general maintenance. We can probably help you get your current setup in good shape.

Check this out Cas!! Did you turn that Snapper loose?? https://geekologie.com/2017/08/classic-video-of-a-pig-falling-for-the-o.php

I don't know if it runs.I am putting an m16 back together from a just a block and crank so I need a lot of the engine parts.I'm not sure what to do with it but i started with this 312a some time ago and made this out of it.

here's a few pics from the last year. Bendy gets used pretty exclusively with a half ton dump trailer. It's been worked hard and been pretty reliable apart from the other night....

Unevenness or warp in the gasket sealing surface of a cylinder head may cause vacuum or pressure leaks in the combustion chamber. If left unchecked, cylinder head distortion may result in less than optimum engine performance and visible symptoms including oil leaks around the head area and possible blowout of the head gasket material. If hot combustion gases are allowed to continue to leak past the aluminum head, erosion of the aluminum gasket sealing surface can occur and render the cylinder head useless. The procedure below explains how to renew a flat(ter) surface on the cylinder head gasket sealing area to prevent defects in the gasket surface from destroying additional head gaskets or the cylinder head itself. Float glass is certainly not the end all argument for a perfectly flat surface but can easily provide sufficient flatness for the purpose of improving the sealing capability of a LGT tractor cylinder head. In preparation for renewing the cylinder head, a few common items will need to be obtained from local suppliers. The surface of an ordinary pane of glass makes a very suitable flat surface to perform this procedure. Several sheets of Wet/Dry 220 grit waterproof paper will be required. Water in a spray bottle will be needed to wet the abrasive paper to keep aluminum debris from collecting on the abrasive paper and clogging the grit prematurely. Wetting the glass pane slightly will allow the paper to "suction cup" itself to the glass pane when the cylinder head squeegees the water from underneath the paper. The cylinder head pictured below will be used for this process. This is a high compression head from a Cub Cadet 10HP Kohler engine. To observe the progression of material removed from the head, I apply a very light "guide coat" of black spray paint to the gasket sealing area of the cylinder head. Complete removal of the guide coat will signal the completion of the flattening process. First, establish a stable and flat surface on which to lay the glass pane. The float glass I used was 1/4" thick - pretty stout stuff. Edges of the glass were beveled for safety. Make certain the glass surface is clean. Any detectable residue such a grease, dirt or stickers on the glass will cause a dimple in the abrasive paper and prevent the cylinder head from renewing perfectly flat. I usually run a single edge razor blade across the surface of the glass pane to assure no residue is present. and onto the back of the abrasive paper. Allow the paper to soften somewhat so when flipped over, it will lay flat on the glass pane and hold the paper in place with "stiction" Flip over the abrasive sheet and wet the top side to allow aluminum particles removed from the cylinder head to float away from the abrasive and not clog the sheet prematurely Place the cylinder head gasket surface side down on the abrasive paper. I leave the spark plug in the head to allow for a better grip on the head throughout the process. Move the head in an even figure 8 motion across the abrasive paper. Apply a slight downward pressure on the head and inspect the progress every 20 or so figure 8 rotations. The downward pressure applied to the head is approximately what you would use if you were applying polishing compound to car paint. No need for excessive pressure here, let the tools do the work. After the first 20 swipes, inspect the head to check your progress. Notice the black guide coat is being abraded away on the "high spots" on the cylinder head. Another 10 to 20 swipes on the abrasive paper and inspect the progress. The blacked areas are the guide coat still present in low spots between the areas polished by the abrasive paper. Another 20 or so swipes and note how the shiny portion of the gasket area is increasing in size. Another 20 swipes And the final 20 swipes produces a gasket seal area without any evidence of guide coat left The head material removed during the process . The slurry produced from this process is also highly abrasive. You may want to keep the slurry away from any nearby hand tools or power tools. The final step is to gently wash away any silicon carbide material from the glass pane. Rinse the pane prior to wiping it down so as not to rub any abrasive into the glass surface.