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Now I know there are several posts about this but I thought this was a pretty good idea on my part if I do say so myself. I needed a rockshaft and to be honest I’m to cheap to spend the money on one so I brain stormed. While walking past and old rotted out deck it came to me that some of the prefabbed parts would work perfect and I will post pics at the end. Ah screw it I will post the pics now and you boys can see my progress this far. Nice part about it is it required zero welding. Just so happens that the brass bushings on a foot pedal are the exact size to fit the holes under the seat pan and have a 3/4 inside diameter to accept the shaft. I had a couple of 3/4 shaft collars to use instead of the e-clips used in the factory setup. Cut the shaft 6” long and cut the arm that goes down to 6 1/2 long from center of shaft. All I have left to do is drill some holes and I just saved myself a boat load on fleabay costs.

Wanted to move the C-160 around in the shed as I was spending my C19 quarantine finishing up building out the interior of my shed, workbench, shelves etc. So in the summer when we moved it fired right up and even with mostly flat tires we got it into the shed. So I was thinking, "should fire right up and I can just move it out of the way make building easier"........Throttle up, Choke up, E-Brake all the way up, reach my left foot around to depress the brake and "magic button".......seat hinge still needs to be done so no sitting..........crank it over once....nothing. I went to crank it again......not a sound but a puff of smoke from the left side, like the battery gave up the ghost......crap. For giggles I wiggled the battery connection.....cranked again and confirmed there was just a loose connection, cool solved that mystery. Crank again.......nothing. OK. I pull the plug wire, secure it back in place because "why not". Checked the fuel lines, made sure fuel was on....... I checked everything I could think of in the moment. Won't start. I went through my mental check list again, air....filter isn't THAT dirty. Battery is strong. Starter sounds strong as ever. Spark plug should be fine. Huh.....left the shed and then as it was getting dark..... Wait.....grabbed the flashlight.......and confirmed what you all have suspected if you read this far........gas. I am fairly certain filling it with gas will help this whole starting situation immensely. I here these here Wheel Horses tend to run better when they actually have gas in them...... Yup I am a dipstick......

@River19 I want you to know that I was going to set up a post and you just kind of happened to beat me to it. I wanted to use my sawzall. Electric sawzall. Put the piece I wanted to cut in the vice. Confirmed I had the right blade in the sawzall. Set myself where I wanted to cut the piece. Pulled the trigger of said sawzall. Nothing. It took me a few trigger pulls and some empuzzlement. Yes that's a word. I made it up. Then I realized I had not plugged the damn thing in.

Will get pictures up as soon as can, probably by weekend, you know how that goes. Thanks again gentleman!!! It's a real pleasure, finding guys that have the knowledge, but who are willing to share

Picked up a 312-8 to keep as a spare. needs some work

After a variety of yard projects yesterday, got five tractors out of hibernation and played with the kids for awhile. Caleb had fun on Comanche. I think we need to do a refresh on his 56 year old motor. It smokes pretty good on startup but clears out decently after about 8-10 minutes of run time. Claudia drove “JackRabbit” (418-C) and loved the fact that she was so much faster than the old 854 that her older brother was driving. Not sure what Caleb was saying to her here but maybe something like, “just remember, that’s my tractor too!” The little guys ran around on Cubs while I was on GhostRider. It was a fun half hour or so!!!!

Well the C-125 started well this morning, so I'm a happy bunny.

@WHX24 Jim does this look any better, when I got home this evening I broadcast about 20 lbs of pelletized lime and same amount of 10-10-10 (could find any I mentioned above) then spent a few hours tilling it in with the 315-8 low range 1st gear (seat time)... @PeacemakerJack @ebinmaine @pullstart @JCM ,notice something in the sky in the last pic I'll call it "tillin' by the full moon light" ...

My chop saw had that same problem the other day when working on the shed. 2 plugs, 3 tools.....guess which one was the odd man out? Man I just admitted to 2 dipstick moments in one week........well, off to check the blinker fluid in my wife's truck......heard it might be low ....

at 4-5 years old the kid should probably already have a spare mower deck or two ? or maybe some extra cash from cutting grass or washing cars to get a deck ? smh kids these days in my day we walked 3 miles to school - backwards - pulling an old Cub Cadet mower deck attached to a rope

A K241 has what some call a splash bath oil system. This means that there is no oil pump to circulate the oil in the engine. Instead there is a dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod the dips into the oil & makes it splash oil around to every thing. This being said there is no oil pressure per say to measure from the engine. If you wanted to add another gauge you could find a place to mount an oil temp gauge.

Have you ever cut through the power cord with the tool you were using? Me either

You're not the only who has done something like that. And you won't be the last. Of course I have never done anything like that

When you take the tranny or anything else apart take plenty of pictures while you go. Easier to put back together especially if you don't do it right away...

My nephew got his first house. I thought I would give him his first tractor with some parts I had lying around.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/62446-upgraded-steering-shaft-bearings-on-520s/?tab=comments#comment-584578

I've gotten a couple requests in the past to do a longer video showing our forest pathways. This is 6 minutes of just some weirdo from Maine driving through the trees...

I can post some pics of a 1961 suburban mower deck, but I would be careful for getting on for a kid

Engine building stand for teardown and building, rotates 360. Transmission building with a milk crate mounted to engine stand.

If you have a nice shift knob that needs to be removed and you don't want to use a pipe wrench or channel-locks just make one of these. I use a piece of leather from an old glove to line it. To mount/dismount 6" and 8" tires I used a piece of 3/4" all-thread rod mounted through the work bench, works great. Fingers cut from an old leather glove protect the paint when using tire irons.

More photos from Corona fest

Love the color of that soil, now I know where the song by Brooks & Dunn Red Dirt Road comes from. A very good friend of mine owns a 1969 Chevelle SS that came from down your way with that color dirt on the frame.That car sits with a 1991 Mass Inspection sticker on it ,what a shame Will post some pics once I retrieve them from another computer.

Got a square? Attach a straight edge through the corner of the square at 45 degrees. Place against the end of the axle, mark a line, rotate the axle 90 degrees to mark the cross point of the center. Rotate the axle another 45 degrees and scribe another line to check confirm the center. If it crosses at the same point,you have the center. If it makes a triangle with the other two lines, the center of the axle will be in the center of that triangle. Next time you are at a hardware store, look for a center finder. It typically is an accessory for an adjustable square that is a 90 degree angle set at 45 degrees to the clamp for the steel rule part of the adjustable square. Good luck. I still need to obtain one of these.

Funny seeing go kart thread. I just picked this up the other day. I planed on giving it to my nephew until I rode it. Yes I know what you are all thinking, no way I could fit in it.... but I did. Was not comfortable and was VERY hard getting in and off of it. I am 6'5" and go about 260 lbs. This thing sits about 1 inch off the ground with no suspension. You feel every stone, crack, dip in the road. You have to drive it on pavement it wont go in the dirt or grass. Didnt really consider that when I bought it. It is a 49cc 2 stroke engine and it goes. Guessing it will do about 30 mph. Now I am not to sure if I should give it to my nephew as he is only 7. Being that he would have to ride it in the street not sure going to fly well with his parents. Need to find one like the ones you have. Look like a blast !

My grandson 5th birthday is coming up next weekend, as I had gotten him a 1961 401 suburban for birthday #3 he now need somthing to go with it. So I'am now looking for a mower deck or a plow for his Little Red, But I don't know what would fit/work for his tractor. So Iam asking for your help on what I should be looking for. And all we have is the tractor so I know we are going to need a lift fram also. Thank you for your help. Joe

The Ariens will made in Brillion WI. I've been in that plant a couple of times. https://www.ariens.com/en-us/lawn-products/walk-behind-riding-mowers/walk-behind

So I figured I should add to this thread. Yep, we’re jumping around a lot this week! The girls are on spring break for the week and spending a lot of time in the shop. Win! Their grandpa gave them a pile of tires and wheels for the go-karts and they are chomping at the bit to get them up and running on the track. I’m looking forward to some go-pro recordings! None of the wheels fit the hubs and I have yet again turned to my new found Bridgeport skill of machining some adapters. First step, find center of the jig. I’m on within .0015” and that’s good enough for a go-kart.

Wow. Three tacks per tab, a weld to cut by the pillow block, then a spot weld every 1/2” or so on that bottom seam!

I never did post the finished product under the hood, with mounts, etc.

We’ve had ourselves a fair share of “cooking fires” when a burn permit was not given... everyone loves s’mores! Attaboy Josh and crew! Something good for the soul comes out of that drive time

Was super easy to do. Had most of it complete in about an hour.

I'm sure he puts up videos like that up, cos he knows it makes me envious.

If you turn off the sound, it is kind of like watching a fish tank.....sooooothing!

While I putter with cutting and grinding... Grampa gave the girls some different go-kart tires to try...

A Blast From The Past!

Put the weights and hanger off the 520 and plow on the 315 with tiller.

Barney fired right up after a winter’s nap! Time for tear down!

That's because it was the THIRD piece that size she had moved... No no. I did okay. I used two hands and proper balance.

So, you didn't strain yourself holding the camera did you? Can't be too careful these days...

So I found a weak spot...of sorts....or well I guess it is more a statement to how much torque and HP you can put thru the Eaton 1100 unit....and the tranny for that matter. Eaton specs state not to feed it more than about 10 hp or so, if memory serves me right. Today I mounted the wacko hat and went out to just test the crap out of it. Go hard or go home. So i drove it out onto a previously tilled peace of land, so wet the water came out around the tires when driving onto it. Completely soggy wet. I did the first pass no problem, backed right into it and stranded it completely. It dug into it so much that mud in the same fluidity as cow poo stood 2 inches high in the rear rims. Take a look at the pics. That's about 10 inches of thick goo. Front end about 6 inches deep. Completely stranded on the belly and sunk in. Let it sit for a while, and then tried to drive it out again, well aware that now the soil had settled on the wheels and locked them inn. Tiller on the back, so it wouldn't lift up too much. The engine makes about 28-30 hp at the point where brown smoke starts to appear. I let it rip at full go, about 4000 rpm on the hydro input, considering the upgraded pulley setup. 3750 on the engine. I had not foreseen this, but i got a lot of resistance in the go lever, a bunch of black smoke up the poo shute, and it just pulled the engine down to a near halt, before i eased off. At the pitch black smoke level, we are way past 30 hp on this engine, and the hydro whined some about it, but repeatedly brought the engine to its knees. I could not break free from the soil before I started reversing and going forward again some times, and then just spinning and digging further. Point of this was not to see if I could get free. I knew that was not going to happen. It was more a test to see if the tranny part would take some serious abuse. In my book it was a statement to toughness, albeit it did try to tell me not to do that every day. Telescopic Load All got it out, and a pressure wash made it look fine again. Why do this? Well the point was to test out something that I have never before been able to test. How much can you put thru a hydro, and will it hold up? I'm telling you this: had I been able to strain the hydraulics too from the charge pump, it could have soaked up 40 hp all in all too. no doubt at all. Healthy for the unit...nooooway, but neither is putting that thru a manual. Was it foolish, sure! did we get wiser....yes! Hope this helps to answer some of the questions, that we often see about how much engine you can actually use on a hydro machine. The simple answer is.... a LOT. The hydro is to me no longer a limiting factor compared to a gear drive. It took all I could throw at it.

So I finally got myself a day off from the family projects, and dove into a steering upgrade and test fitting of new shoes for my baby. Do not know if it has any interest, but thought I would share, so perhaps someone else could use the info. Ore just have a laugh at my fumbling around . My current worker C195 goes as my test platform too, where I try out different ideas to make sure they work as intended. When all the ideas are testet thru, the no goes are discarded, and a restomod will start on a second C195 i have stored for that purpose. Hense, the pictures will show a C195 with less than pretty solutions here and there, and some unfinished mods. This is baby Steering is a bit loose, but it already has the gear reduced setup from a 520. So in order to fix some of the slop/play, and to make room for bigger front wheels, i dug out a very tight front end from a 520 that I had saved for this project. One of the major advantages to the steering was adapting the steering rods with zero play, compared to the "ball in a square hole" type, that was on it. The front end on a C195 is a bit wider in the pivoting point than a 520 setup, so I had to shim it quite a bit. Another advantage to the 520 setup is the threaded end of the 1" spindles. The C195 is also 1", but drilled and tapped type. The threaded type is as custom made for trailer hub upgrade. I went for 4 on 4 bolt pattern. The rims are 7x8, with a 0 offset, and pretty much eats up the full 4 inches that the 520 front end is wider than the C195's. But the steering arms on the spindles can not fit, so a little tweaking had to be made. Nice and tight I put new roller bearings and thrust washers in, and reused the old ones on top of the spindle. That took all play out of the spindles. Tire time. 20x10-8. Water filled to help keep the front down when something heavy is on the rear of it. Those things are heavy when full. I tubed them and gave them a 100% fill, which adds 85 lbs per wheel. + the trailer spindle setup, then lets call that at least 90 lbs extra on each front wheel. Here's a few shots of a 520 wheel and the std 195 wheel in comparison. Got it all aligned. A tip is to make sure the "triangle" is centered, and work from there. I measured the with of the rear end, which now was narrower than the front by two inches. Then used a peace of square tubing to put on the side of the front tire, and then adjust till there was 1 inch space to the rear tire. So now it tracks straight Now all this would just look silly, if nothing was done to the rear, so on to the shelves, where I found these. They are 14x15 rim shells, and centers. I pressed the centers in place to give me 1" clearing on the inside. Then mounted them on the tractor, and ran them to see any wobble. tapped them until they ran true, and welded them up. So now is when you think: 14" wide???? WTF is that crazy dude mounting on those.................... 31x15.5-15 on top of the standard 27" wheel. And no, they did not go on by hand and two screwdrivers like the fronts These got a 100% water fill too. The new rims were heavier without tire, than the complete std wheel. The new wheel with tire is a hand full to lift without water, and I estimate they are at least 40 lbs heavier each than the std. The water fill adds 285 lbs to each wheel, so at least 325 lbs extra for each rear wheel. No more slipping I hope Forgot to take pictures of it, but I put bolts in the rear hubs, and now it runs real lug nuts on the rear too. This is how it turned out It is now in use as my daily worker How does it run and feel? Well, changed is a mild description. The steering is much tighter, and the added 900+ lbs to the wheels, and the bigger diameter certainly has put it's mark on how it reacts. The roughly 30 hp diesel has a lot more to log around, and I feel the hydro is working harder. Much harder. now it can pull rpm's down quite a bit in idle, just by accelerating. I am aware that I have to be more careful with the controls. Before I was hard on it. full speed ahead and fast stops etc. This is just too much weight to handle like that. But on the very positive side, it now pulls like the 1 ton tractor it sort of is. No slipping, and no discussion if it is the tractor, or the trailer or what ever implement that decides where we should go. The wider stance and weight has made it incredibly stable. I will be testing out a bit of tilling today too. Why did I chose a 100% water fill? well that was simply to avoid the water moving around in the tires. Also to test out as much weight as possible. This is surely on the high side of what it should handle long term. What can I say. On tractors I like big butts

can,t find my thread, but i have done this on my 3 horses , that ball bearing threw me off, i used this , a 3/4" bore 2 bolt flange , https://www.google.com/search?q=2+bolt+flange+bearing+3/4+bore&sxsrf=ALeKk02SkGzgvTMDbce6Ut9o5lO5OUPq6A:1586191894032&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjbu46jodToAhXxlHIEHRPFARQQsxh6BAgNECw&biw=1024&bih=625 this is a very strong cast flange , the only thing you will have to make up is a transition piece from your existing mount to the new bearing mount. you will be removing your dash console to do this, but its so worth it . bearing is cheap ,under 10 $ . while i was in there i also shimmed up my , PTO LEVER START MOUNT POINT , lower edge of battery tray , lever is sloppy , fill the gap with washers and grease it, snug and smooth movement. i will send you my link to that , good luck with it , pete

Have you checked the obvious - Is the PTO disengaged? Do not ask me why I know that... It also smells like maybe a safety switch - PTO or seat?

Chuck! I’m on the left side of the state and have no KT17 experience, but I’ve got a good waving hand!

I take a lot of old non running equipment in on trade and/or buy it cheap, and refurbish it to sell. Use the money to finance my tractor habits. I figure I will probably have $100-$150 in this one to get it freshened up and ready to go. And around here should be able to get around $450-500 pretty easily.